UAS?blowing fuses daily

Im blowing fuses at the power wire on a regular basis?  What could the problem be?
bad ground? I can hear a significant difference the rate of power prior to me turning my lights on while the compressors are on.  When I turn my lights on the flow of energy decreases.  Its going in the shop today.  I kind of just want to have a better understanding of what the problem is or could be.

I changed battery to a red top optima and still burning fuses.

[QUOTE=33flavors;194749]Im blowing fuses at the power wire on a regular basis?  What could the problem be?
bad ground? I can hear a significant difference the rate of power prior to me turning my lights on while the compressors are on.  When I turn my lights on the flow of energy decreases.  Its going in the shop today.  I kind of just want to have a better understanding of what the problem is or could be.

I changed battery to a red top optima and still burning fuses.[/QUOTE]


That sounds like a severe power issue.  what size power wire are you running from the batt back?  

I would suggest running a 4 awg back for a pair of compressors.  Also if your having that much of an issue i would suggest running a 4 awg back for a ground and grounding the compressors and the large ground wire to the body.

Are you using a relay to turn on each compressor? When I did my friends LS400, I ran a 4 gauge wire from the battery back to the trunk into a double fuse block, then from the fuse block 2-8 gauge wires to each relay of the compressors. Haven't had any problems. None of the wires get hot.

Are you putting the right fuse in the fuse holder?

With my 2 Viair 480's I use 39 amps of power when they're on.

My mechanic blew 3 30amp fuses.

He put a 40amp in and it works perfect. *knock on wood*

But I have very small wires going back to the compressors - they're like 12 gauge. The compressors are turned on by relays.

first, what fuse is blowing?

just finshed an install today.. *UAS.. i used only one compressor.. with some aircraft grade power wire.. 4 guage.. i couldnt find a 30 amp fuse so i just used a 60 amp fuse.. try sticking in a higher amp fuse and see how it goes.. but the comp shouldnt be drawing more than 30 amps.. is the wire getting hot? 
 
what size wire did you run.. and maybe bad goround. Im guessing the set up is in the trunk?

looks like 4 gauge and i have two compressors and two 3 gallon tanks...yeah that wire gets super hot..im using the ae60 i think if that makes any sense, my car is in the shop now, im off to the philippines so hopefully it will be hashed out when i get back

the real problem is i cant move on w/ my build until the problem is fixed

[QUOTE=33flavors;195055]looks like 4 gauge and i have two compressors and two 3 gallon tanks...yeah that wire gets super hot..im using the ae60 i think if that makes any sense, my car is in the shop now, im off to the philippines so hopefully it will be hashed out when i get back

the real problem is i cant move on w/ my build until the problem is fixed[/QUOTE]


That sounds like it is a voltage issue, Typically caused by a poor ground.  Not to say that your installer did do a good ground job on the car, but possibly the car itself doesn't supply a good ground through the body to the back.  It won't hurt anything to run another ground wire back and tie it all in together.

Best way i have found to test it is using a Multi Meter and probe driectly into the red/black wires on the compressors with everything on and see what the voltage is at the pump.

I would say maybe check if any wires are being pinched.  This can cause the current to slow down causing wires to get hot and even melt.  I would back track all the wires...I know its a pain but it beats electrical fires anyday =)

its burning at the fuse block at the battery and the 1st time it happened it completely destroyed the fuse box....but as of late it was is just burning fuses...but i will use your recommendations if the problem still occurs...thanks all

bad install good install, your kind of at the mercy of the installer because you dont want to pay someone else to fix the problem, thats pretty much where im at, a..and in hawaii know one wants to go behind someone else work

A positive wire grounding out would mean[I] instant[/I] fuse popping and wouldnt be "hot" long enough to melt a fuse holder.
 
Sounds like a bad/lose ground. That would cause the power wire to heat up... until it ruined the holder and blew the fuse :sad: 
 
 
Be sure to disconnect the battery before u leave town...just in case

give me call if you need help.. 7532938..  it shouldnt be that hard to fix.. is your stuffs mounted on a peice of wood... in the trunk..

[QUOTE=33flavors;195130]its burning at the fuse block at the battery and the 1st time it happened it completely destroyed the fuse box....but as of late it was is just burning fuses...but i will use your recommendations if the problem still occurs...thanks all

bad install good install, your kind of at the mercy of the installer because you dont want to pay someone else to fix the problem, thats pretty much where im at, a..and in hawaii know one wants to go behind someone else work[/QUOTE]

a decent low-buck test for you would be to try running a fairly large gauge wire from the ground post on the batt to the ground of the compressors.  If they sound like they are speeding up its from lack of a good ground. If thats the case just run one from the batt back.

^i've done this with a jumper cable. quick and easy if you have one long enough, depending on where it's mounted.

man this reminds me of a short i had in my lighitng this week. got me rolled on my 5 too.

had to redo all the wiring for headlights and sidemarkers and foglights.

Im having this issue right now. I have 2 compressors, with each having its own power source from the battery. Its 12awg wires and individual fuse block. But one fuse block keeps blowing or melting, while the other hasnt had any issues of blowing. The ground wires are getting super hot and could cause a fire. 
 
I need to get this fixed ASAP. So my question is, would one 4awg power wire work for both compressors, then run 4awg grounding wire? Or should I run two 4awg power wires to both compressors with 4awg grounding wires?
The battery is in the engine bay and the setup is in the trunk
 
Thanks

I don't think 12awg is big enough to handles two compressors.  I would use 4awg to be sure.  Those compressors draw alot of current each.   Check you ground connections.   Make sure if you ground to the chassis that you grind away the paint so there is metal to metal contact.

Like they said years ago..  use a good sized line or long enough jumper and connect one to the battery ground and the ground in the trunk.  See if you here or feel a difference in temperature

[QUOTE=IS3_FTW;360269]Im having this issue right now. I have 2 compressors, with each having its own power source from the battery. Its 12awg wires and individual fuse block. But one fuse block keeps blowing or melting, while the other hasnt had any issues of blowing. The ground wires are getting super hot and could cause a fire. 
 
I need to get this fixed ASAP. So my question is, would one 4awg power wire work for both compressors, then run 4awg grounding wire? Or should I run two 4awg power wires to both compressors with 4awg grounding wires?
The battery is in the engine bay and the setup is in the trunk
 
Thanks[/QUOTE]


Depending on which compressors that you used.  They take a draw of 18-28 Amps.  Running a 12 AWG wire 15ft will lower the wire's ability to hold such a load.  You need to properly wire it up.  If you have amplifiers or are thinking of getting any in the future you might as well run 0 AWG.  However if all the you are running is the compressors run 4 AWG fused to a distribution block and from the distribution block to two 10 AWG to the compressors.  Power you should either ground the compressors using the the wires that is already present on the compressors.  However if you dont have any where to ground you should run it the same way as the power.  4 AWG grounded to a distribution block, and out to two 10 AWG to the compressors.  Make sure to properly prep where you attach the ground to.  Sand it to bare metal and use a lock washer to get a good contact.

[QUOTE=Spyder78;360277]Depending on which compressors that you used.  They take a draw of 18-28 Amps.  Running a 12 AWG wire 15ft will lower the wire's ability to hold such a load.  You need to properly wire it up.  If you have amplifiers or are thinking of getting any in the future you might as well run 0 AWG.  However if all the you are running is the compressors run 4 AWG fused to a distribution block and from the distribution block to two 10 AWG to the compressors.  Power you should either ground the compressors using the the wires that is already present on the compressors.  However if you dont have any where to ground you should run it the same way as the power.  4 AWG grounded to a distribution block, and out to two 10 AWG to the compressors.  Make sure to properly prep where you attach the ground to.  Sand it to bare metal and use a lock washer to get a good contact.[/QUOTE]

You don't really need a distribution block unless you are setting the compressors far apart from each other.


I have the Viair 480c and the compressors are prewired.   The UAS kit provides a 80amp Solenoid.   I connected the stock viair wires to one of the post on the Solenoid and the other end just a solid connection to the 4awg power source.   The other smaller post comes from the 160-200psi pressure switch from the tank and from the tank to the accessory power source.
[url]https://www.universalairsuspension.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=99&osCsid=6eaac95001dfe7ef88f1e567567bb92a[/url]

Of course upgrade the power wire size to the 4 awg like mentioned above. 

Also, once you have that addressed, i would highly recommend probing the wires with both compressors on and check the voltage on both the power/ground side.  Your most likely having a voltage drop which will cause higher amperage and heat up the wires.

If the voltage is still low after doing the power wire upgrade, you need a better ground.  This could be accomplished by running a wire from the neg post all the way back and grounding it with the body and the compressors or run a direct wire from the batt neg all the way back.  Some areas in the uni-body cars have a very poor ground

I can recommend someone in Hawaii (legit shop) that will fix / redo UAS electrical problems. Just 2 weeks ago in fact, he mentioned that he had rewired a few local cars that actually had electrical fires in the car due to different types of problems when the UAS kit was installed, saying the most common problem was the guage of wire people were using. LMK if you need the recommendation. Otherwise, good luck with getting it sorted out with your current guy. Most important thing is you get it worked out, nothing worse than having an electrical fire and having to watch the car burn to the ground and you lose everything (almost happened to me at HRP!)

Thanks for the great info :biggthumpup:
 
[QUOTE=Spyder78;360277]Depending on which compressors that you used. They take a draw of 18-28 Amps. Running a 12 AWG wire 15ft will lower the wire's ability to hold such a load. You need to properly wire it up. If you have amplifiers or are thinking of getting any in the future you might as well run 0 AWG. However if all the you are running is the compressors run 4 AWG fused to a distribution block and from the distribution block to two 10 AWG to the compressors. Power you should either ground the compressors using the the wires that is already present on the compressors. However if you dont have any where to ground you should run it the same way as the power. 4 AWG grounded to a distribution block, and out to two 10 AWG to the compressors. Make sure to properly prep where you attach the ground to. Sand it to bare metal and use a lock washer to get a good contact.[/QUOTE]
 
I will be running a 4 channel amp to run my cockpit speakers. No subs in my immediate future in this car. Will I still need to run 0awg wire?
 
When I run the -neg battery wire to the trunk. Do I ground the battery wire first, then run a seperate wire from the location I grounded the battery, to the compressors?
 
[QUOTE=Blitz;360283]You don't really need a distribution block unless you are setting the compressors far apart from each other.
 
 
I have the Viair 480c and the compressors are prewired. The UAS kit provides a 80amp Solenoid. I connected the stock viair wires to one of the post on the Solenoid and the other end just a solid connection to the 4awg power source. The other smaller post comes from the 160-200psi pressure switch from the tank and from the tank to the accessory power source.
[URL]https://www.universalairsuspension.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=99&osCsid=6eaac95001dfe7ef88f1e567567bb92a[/URL][/QUOTE]
 
Do you have pics of this, or can show me how it works?
 
[QUOTE=Universal Air;360327]Of course upgrade the power wire size to the 4 awg like mentioned above. 
 
Also, once you have that addressed, i would highly recommend probing the wires with both compressors on and check the voltage on both the power/ground side. Your most likely having a voltage drop which will cause higher amperage and heat up the wires.
 
If the voltage is still low after doing the power wire upgrade, you need a better ground. This could be accomplished by running a wire from the neg post all the way back and grounding it with the body and the compressors or run a direct wire from the batt neg all the way back. Some areas in the uni-body cars have a very poor ground[/QUOTE]
 
What should the voltage be at if running properly?

I think a big question is...is this happening at all times or just when all the lighting is on?  How much of a draw is creating the problem??  Was this problem apparent before you did your latest lighting upgrade??

The rest as mentioned seems to be a given to me.  The wire gauge and the ground, I mean that's a common issue that a lot of people over look.  And also how's your alternator while we're on the subject?

[QUOTE]Do you have pics of this, or can show me how it works?[/QUOTE] 

I'm no expert but this is what I did and this is the best drawing I can do...   The first drawing was how all my system was hooked up.   Key thing here is the ground connection points have to be good.

[IMG]http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll56/tony42378/Power2-1.jpg[/IMG]

OR

[IMG]http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll56/tony42378/Power-1.jpg[/IMG]

This being the 80Amp Solenoid...
[IMG]https://www.universalairsuspension.com/store/images/solenoid.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=elpresidente;360460]I think a big question is...is this happening at all times or just when all the lighting is on? How much of a draw is creating the problem?? Was this problem apparent before you did your latest lighting upgrade??
 
The rest as mentioned seems to be a given to me. The wire gauge and the ground, I mean that's a common issue that a lot of people over look. And also how's your alternator while we're on the subject?[/QUOTE]
 
Yes, its happening at all times. I have had HID's before I got the airSUS setup installed. I know when the car/compressors is on, I push on the gas and I can hear the compressors getting louder. Its not getting enough power when at idle, so i dunno if my alternator is bad.
It could also be draw from the lights/wipers/etc... thats causing my fuse to blow.
 
Thanks :biggthumpup:

how old is your battery?

[QUOTE=brainneeded;360770]how old is your battery?[/QUOTE]
 
Its a DieHard Platinum and its about 2yrs old

you should install a voltmeter in your car so you can see how much the voltage drops when any certain item draws power. if you have a passport 8500 x50 you can set it to read voltage when it's not picking up any radar, that's what i do.

[QUOTE=IS3_FTW;360751]Yes, its happening at all times. I have had HID's before I got the airSUS setup installed. I know when the car/compressors is on, I push on the gas and I can hear the compressors getting louder. Its not getting enough power when at idle, so i dunno if my alternator is bad.
It could also be draw from the lights/wipers/etc... thats causing my fuse to blow.
 
Thanks :biggthumpup:[/QUOTE]

you know what...now that you mentioned I do remember if I gas at idle the compressors worked better.   These compressors draw alot of amps so at idle running 2 compressors sucks up more juice than the alternator can handle unlessed reved up.     I felt this was normal.