Wetsanding? Would you dare try it?

been look at all the youtube videos on wetsanding. Had no idea you can actually sand your car with wet wetsand paper than rebuff it. From what I have seen it removes the small scratches and makes your car really really shiny. The thing I don't get that when you wetsand it removes the clear coat and when you buff it up makes it shiny again.
 
So if it rains and or you wash you car, will your car look crappy and gotta rebuff it with an orbital?
 
I plan on wetsanding me lexus. Its a 1993 and it will probably work wonders if I wetsand. any thoughts?

wet sanding cuts a good amount of material then you still have to shine it up. i would try a buffing compound first.

I've done it a few times to remove clear coat scratches.  Then I use a buffer and some compound to shine it back up.

No because I don't have the patience.

I have done it though and it's easy.

Wouldn't recommend it on an old car though. Get it machined and polished, that would do the trick most likely.

thanks.. what does get it machined mean? Sorry haha

having someone apply an abrasive with a machine such as a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher
[url]http://guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=47[/url]

This is a great resource for detailing info: [url]http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/index.php?[/url]

thanks fire!

DO NOT completely wetsand your factory clear coat finish...you risk removing most to all of the original clear left. 

If you want to remove swirls and scratches, invest in either a rotary buffer, or the Flex XC3401. The latter of the two is much safer because there is a less of a chance of burning around edges and such.

It's ok to sand the clear with some 3000 grit but don't abuse the paint by going too coarse. i wet sand everything I paint just so that the paint comes out like glass. I'm the painter so I make sure I put on the clear coat pretty nice and thick so I can wet sand. If the clear coat is OEM then just lightly sand and buff to a shine and watch for the edges.

what we use at the shop is a makita variable speed buffer, you can adjust the rpm from 0 - 3000.. from what i know, after the paint is completely dry they use fine grit 3m wet or dry sandpaper to cut and smooth down the clear coat surface.. but not too much on the edges or corners because that's where you'll sand down too much and take off the actual paint. Make sure when you're doing this to tape up mouldings, plastic peices, windows, etc.. so you won't end up scratching them. After comepletely sanding down the panel or car we use 3m Perfect-it 3000 series rubbing compound (the purple bottle), for cutting, then 3m Swirl Mark Remover (dark grey bottle), and for the final polish and buff we use the 3m Swirl Eliminator (light blue bottle). I had my last project fully wetsand and buff after the paint job and it came out really smooth and clean and of course a mirror like finish. It does take a lot of work to do and time consuming but, if you're very careful with your car and if you have the patience you can easily wetsand and buff your car. You don't have to use what I just mentioned but thats what we have in our shop and had great results with it.

If anyone here from SD needs a full wetsand and buff let me know because I have my own prepper/buffer that can do it on weekends, but only 1 car every week. It takes about a whole day to get the job done..

Yo Aaron, I got an old 1998 ranger im trying to sell. I need to get it repainted and buffed up to sell. Nothing to expensive on paint just a straight black probably. Let me know what the price would be yea

[quote=DaygoVIP619;196937]what we use at the shop is a makita variable speed buffer, you can adjust the rpm from 0 - 3000.. from what i know, after the paint is completely dry they use fine grit 3m wet or dry sandpaper to cut and smooth down the clear coat surface.. but not too much on the edges or corners because that's where you'll sand down too much and take off the actual paint. Make sure when you're doing this to tape up mouldings, plastic peices, windows, etc.. so you won't end up scratching them. After comepletely sanding down the panel or car we use 3m Perfect-it 3000 series rubbing compound (the purple bottle), for cutting, then 3m Swirl Mark Remover (dark grey bottle), and for the final polish and buff we use the 3m Swirl Eliminator (light blue bottle). I had my last project fully wetsand and buff after the paint job and it came out really smooth and clean and of course a mirror like finish. It does take a lot of work to do and time consuming but, if you're very careful with your car and if you have the patience you can easily wetsand and buff your car. You don't have to use what I just mentioned but thats what we have in our shop and had great results with it.
 
If anyone here from SD needs a full wetsand and buff let me know because I have my own prepper/buffer that can do it on weekends, but only 1 car every week. It takes about a whole day to get the job done..[/quote]
 
How's business down there? I have my own body shop here in nor cal.