In the market for wheels...
So I am curious to know what you guys have to say to me be it flame, recommendations, opinions, or advice.
I pretty much decided on a set of wheels already; Work Schwert SC2s, if anyone is wondering.
Here is what I plan to do with the car in order to accommodate the wheels:
- Shave inner fender as much as possible on the front and rear
- RCA kit on the front and rear
With that in mind:
- Run a stretched tire setup
- Tires be (mildly) tucked like my previous wheels (20s):
WHEEL SPECS:
With all that said and done, I would like the wheels to sit as far out as it can to be flush(?) with the fender. I would also like the lip to be around 3.5" in the rear.
I plan to upgrade to a BBK in the (very far) future so I would assume I need high-disk wheels, but after seeing a few pics, it looks like it's a normal-disk in the rear?
So, if my calculations are correct with the assumption I went with a "big caliper-disk" wheel, if I wanted just a 3" lip (
2.9921256" to be a little more precise) on a 10.5" wheel in the rear, my offset would have to be +20.
I come to believe that 2- or 3-piece wheels can't be too convex or concave. (Will someone confirm this for me?)
So on to the ultimate question:
Is this even feasible?
To me, it seems like the rear RCAs would pose a problem if I want to obtain maximum dish in the rear. Would I have to shave control arms and other stuff as some people did?
I don't want to have to switch tires every 6 months. Once a year doesn't sound
too bad. If I can achieve
at least a year's worth of driving without the rear RCAs installed, then kick ass! This is also my daily driver. I get drive around 1,000 to 1,500 miles in a month.
Also, I am not going for a specific look (VIP, VIP-style, EXE, etc). I just want the car to look good and to represent me (with the help of you guys, of course). I suppose I'm trying to kiss my rear fender? I want to try and do all this without rolling the fenders too.
FRONT
20 x 8.5
-OR-
20 x 9.5
REAR
20 x 10.5
TIRES
235/35
front
275/30
rear
Your help, opinions, recommendations, advice, and flames are all welcome.
For what it's worth, I still haven't bothered to call Work because I am still saving up money. I just want a much clearer understanding of this before I dive into the sea.
I'm sure I left something out, but I am a forgetful person.
Thanks for taking the time to read through my rant! :)
View original BBCode
So I am curious to know what you guys have to say to me be it flame, recommendations, opinions, or advice.
I pretty much decided on a set of wheels already; Work Schwert SC2s, if anyone is wondering.
Here is what I plan to do with the car in order to accommodate the wheels:[LIST]
[*]Shave inner fender as much as possible on the front and rear
[*][U]RCA kit on the front and rear[/U][/LIST]With that in mind:[LIST]
[*]Run a stretched tire setup
[*]Tires be (mildly) tucked like my previous wheels (20s):[/LIST][IMG]http://www.fotolode.com/images/TrillOne/sc05350.jpg[/IMG]
[U][B]WHEEL SPECS[/B][/U]:
[IMG]http://www.fotolode.com/images/TrillOne/w1www.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.fotolode.com/images/TrillOne/213ew.jpg[/IMG]
With all that said and done, I would like the wheels to sit as far out as it can to be flush(?) with the fender. I would also like the lip to be around 3.5" in the rear.
I plan to upgrade to a BBK in the (very far) future so I would assume I need high-disk wheels, but after seeing a few pics, it looks like it's a normal-disk in the rear?
So, if my calculations are correct with the assumption I went with a "big caliper-disk" wheel, if I wanted just a 3" lip ([I]2.9921256" to be a little more precise[/I]) on a 10.5" wheel in the rear, my offset would have to be +20.
I come to believe that 2- or 3-piece wheels can't be too convex or concave. (Will someone confirm this for me?)
So on to the ultimate question: [U][B]Is this even feasible?[/B][/U]
To me, it seems like the rear RCAs would pose a problem if I want to obtain maximum dish in the rear. Would I have to shave control arms and other stuff as some people did?
I don't want to have to switch tires every 6 months. Once a year doesn't sound [I]too [/I]bad. If I can achieve [I]at least[/I] a year's worth of driving without the rear RCAs installed, then kick ass! This is also my daily driver. I get drive around 1,000 to 1,500 miles in a month.
Also, I am not going for a specific look (VIP, VIP-style, EXE, etc). I just want the car to look good and to represent me (with the help of you guys, of course). I suppose I'm trying to kiss my rear fender? I want to try and do all this without rolling the fenders too.
[U][B]FRONT[/B][/U]
20 x 8.5
-OR-
20 x 9.5
[U][B]REAR[/B][/U]
20 x 10.5
[U][B]TIRES[/B][/U]
235/35 [I]front[/I]
275/30 [I]rear[/I]
Your help, opinions, recommendations, advice, and flames are all welcome.
For what it's worth, I still haven't bothered to call Work because I am still saving up money. I just want a much clearer understanding of this before I dive into the sea.
I'm sure I left something out, but I am a forgetful person.
Thanks for taking the time to read through my rant! :)
actually, those sizes if you pull the fenders a tad will be fine
most people i see with Yotas are running 9j 10j +20 all around, and it always looks good.
ps: LMK when you're ready to buy
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actually, those sizes if you pull the fenders a tad will be fine
most people i see with Yotas are running 9j 10j +20 all around, and it always looks good.
ps: LMK when you're ready to buy
The Work wheels will be much better than your black wheels.
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The Work wheels will be much better than your black wheels.
Yokotas13;202211 wrote:actually, those sizes if you pull the fenders a tad will be fine
most people i see with Yotas are running 9j 10j +20 all around, and it always looks good.
ps: LMK when you're ready to buy
What exactly is pulling the fender? I picture either getting a hammer and bang it outward or this:
When you say you've seen "Yotas" (I learned a new word today! haha) running 10j +20 in the rear, what is the lip size? What type of disk? How much camber is generally involved? Poked or tucked? Does all that matter?
At any rate, I may just toss out the idea of having the rears a high-disk and look into an O-disk setup. If I was to go that route, I can achieve a 3.54" lip with a 10.5" +30 wheel. Now if I was to go with a +20, I'd get a retarded 4" lip.
I guess what I really want to ask is:
What are the necessary steps involved in having my rear wheels get close to flush with the fender like this (but my tires be moderately tucked)
Pic A:
and not like this
Pic B:
with around a 3.5" outer lip and close to OEM spec in regards to camber?
Now with further brainstorming, I am convinced that I can't achieve OEM camber specs if I wanted to be flush like
Pic A and have a nice lip. I would prefer not to have my wheels poke out as much as
Pic B because that's too much money invested in tires from the look of it.
So did I end up answering my own questions? Going around the actual answer? Am I missing something or am I being stubborn here?
I have a slight case of OCD so I suppose it's the reason why I'm taking this nonsense so seriously. Haha.
fatfree69;202224 wrote:The Work wheels will be much better than your black wheels.
Definitely. I was able to sell the wheels and got stockers in the process. :dance:
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[quote=Yokotas13;202211]actually, those sizes if you pull the fenders a tad will be fine
most people i see with Yotas are running 9j 10j +20 all around, and it always looks good.
ps: LMK when you're ready to buy[/quote]
What exactly is pulling the fender? I picture either getting a hammer and bang it outward or this:
[IMG]http://images.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0702_14_z+learn_how_to_fix_a_dent+pulling_the_fender.jpg[/IMG]
When you say you've seen "Yotas" (I learned a new word today! haha) running 10j +20 in the rear, what is the lip size? What type of disk? How much camber is generally involved? Poked or tucked? Does all that matter?
At any rate, I may just toss out the idea of having the rears a high-disk and look into an O-disk setup. If I was to go that route, I can achieve a 3.54" lip with a 10.5" +30 wheel. Now if I was to go with a +20, I'd get a retarded 4" lip.
I guess what I really want to ask is:
What are the necessary steps involved in having my rear wheels get close to flush with the fender like this (but my tires be moderately tucked)[B] Pic A[/B]:
[IMG]http://www.clublexus.com/gallery/data/500/medium/rear_side_v8_medium.jpg[/IMG]
and not like this [B]Pic B[/B]:
[IMG]http://planetplugged.net/images/mode_cl_thread/IMG_4302_sm.JPG[/IMG]
with around a 3.5" outer lip and close to OEM spec in regards to camber?
Now with further brainstorming, I am convinced that I can't achieve OEM camber specs if I wanted to be flush like [B]Pic A[/B] and have a nice lip. I would prefer not to have my wheels poke out as much as [B]Pic B[/B] because that's too much money invested in tires from the look of it.
So did I end up answering my own questions? Going around the actual answer? Am I missing something or am I being stubborn here?
I have a slight case of OCD so I suppose it's the reason why I'm taking this nonsense so seriously. Haha.
[quote=fatfree69;202224]The Work wheels will be much better than your black wheels.[/quote]
Definitely. I was able to sell the wheels and got stockers in the process. :dance:
i think you have no clue what you want.
you cant tuck tire and have settings like pic A
without camber, your tire will hit the inner fenderwell if you manage to get past the lip with whatever tire you are going to run.
If you go with Pic A, your car is gonna be 4x4 and look dumb (IMO obviously) where as with pic B, it will be clean, and you will be complimented for your fitment.
be preparaed, its not easy, not fun, and lots of time to get fitment like Pic B.
search Fender Rolling on youtube
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i think you have no clue what you want.
you cant tuck tire and have settings like pic A
without camber, your tire will hit the inner fenderwell if you manage to get past the lip with whatever tire you are going to run.
If you go with Pic A, your car is gonna be 4x4 and look dumb (IMO obviously) where as with pic B, it will be clean, and you will be complimented for your fitment.
be preparaed, its not easy, not fun, and lots of time to get fitment like Pic B.
search Fender Rolling on youtube
Yeah, that's what I figured. I don't want to get a fitment like Pic B, but relatively close to it because it's a daily driver. I was hoping not to have to roll my fenders, but we'll see what the future has in store for me.
If I did that, how many miles do you think I can put on the rear tires before getting a new set?
As for the front, I plan to put the RCAs on. Do you think I will hit something in the wheel well when I go over bumps? I would like to be able to do u-turns as well. :P
Thanks for your help :)
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Yeah, that's what I figured. I don't want to get a fitment like Pic B, but relatively close to it because it's a daily driver. I was hoping not to have to roll my fenders, but we'll see what the future has in store for me.
If I did that, how many miles do you think I can put on the rear tires before getting a new set?
As for the front, I plan to put the RCAs on. Do you think I will hit something in the wheel well when I go over bumps? I would like to be able to do u-turns as well. :P
Thanks for your help :)
every car is different
you just gotta do it and sort it out
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every car is different
you just gotta do it and sort it out
Yeah. This will be a fun car. :) Thanks.
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Yeah. This will be a fun car. :) Thanks.
sounds like you need to do a little more research on things pertaining to fitment. i can't help with exact offsets since i don't own a gs but here's a few things to look into.
1) pic a vs. pic b is differences in ride height moreso than fitment.
2) rca's are for audio. uca's and lca's are what you are thinking of, unless i'm mistaken. for the mild fitment you seem to be looking for they are unnecessary. they are usually used for dialing in extreme camber which would look awful with the type of drop you are talking about.
3) don't buy wheels buy lip, buy them by width/offset.
what i would do if i were you, and trying to do what you are trying to do, is just look through the picture gallery or other websites for the fitment you want, get the specs, and buy something similar. stretch to clear the fender (if it even turns out to be an issue) and your done. what you are looking for is a very basic setup and you're trying to make it overly complicated.
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sounds like you need to do a little more research on things pertaining to fitment. i can't help with exact offsets since i don't own a gs but here's a few things to look into.
1) pic a vs. pic b is differences in ride height moreso than fitment.
2) rca's are for audio. uca's and lca's are what you are thinking of, unless i'm mistaken. for the mild fitment you seem to be looking for they are unnecessary. they are usually used for dialing in extreme camber which would look awful with the type of drop you are talking about.
3) don't buy wheels buy lip, buy them by width/offset.
what i would do if i were you, and trying to do what you are trying to do, is just look through the picture gallery or other websites for the fitment you want, get the specs, and buy something similar. stretch to clear the fender (if it even turns out to be an issue) and your done. what you are looking for is a very basic setup and you're trying to make it overly complicated.
BLKonBLK98;202340 wrote:
1) pic a vs. pic b is differences in ride height moreso than fitment.
Yeah, I know. What I was trying to get at is if it's possible to have the wheel be as flush as Pic A while having a 3.5"-ish lip
BUT have the tires tucked more than what you see in Pic A while not having excessive negative camber.
2) rca's are for audio. uca's and lca's are what you are thinking of, unless i'm mistaken. for the mild fitment you seem to be looking for they are unnecessary. they are usually used for dialing in extreme camber which would look awful with the type of drop you are talking about.
Roll-center adjusters www.exactmotorsports.com makes them for my car. You really think my set up is mild? hahahhaa
3) don't buy wheels buy lip, buy them by width/offset.
I don't know what to say, but it's definitely food for thought. Thanks. :)
what i would do if i were you, and trying to do what you are trying to do, is just look through the picture gallery or other websites for the fitment you want, get the specs, and buy something similar. stretch to clear the fender (if it even turns out to be an issue) and your done. what you are looking for is a very basic setup and you're trying to make it overly complicated.
Haha a basic setup on VSC is bananas to me. An aggressive setup to you would probably make my head explode. HAHA
Thanks for the input!
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[quote=BLKonBLK98;202340]
1) pic a vs. pic b is differences in ride height moreso than fitment.
[/quote]
Yeah, I know. What I was trying to get at is if it's possible to have the wheel be as flush as Pic A while having a 3.5"-ish lip [U]BUT[/U] have the tires tucked more than what you see in Pic A while not having excessive negative camber.
[quote]2) rca's are for audio. uca's and lca's are what you are thinking of, unless i'm mistaken. for the mild fitment you seem to be looking for they are unnecessary. they are usually used for dialing in extreme camber which would look awful with the type of drop you are talking about.[/quote]Roll-center adjusters [URL="http://www.exactmotorsports.com"]www.exactmotorsports.com[/URL] makes them for my car. You really think my set up is mild? hahahhaa
[quote]3) don't buy wheels buy lip, buy them by width/offset.[/quote]I don't know what to say, but it's definitely food for thought. Thanks. :)
[quote]what i would do if i were you, and trying to do what you are trying to do, is just look through the picture gallery or other websites for the fitment you want, get the specs, and buy something similar. stretch to clear the fender (if it even turns out to be an issue) and your done. what you are looking for is a very basic setup and you're trying to make it overly complicated.[/quote]Haha a basic setup on VSC is bananas to me. An aggressive setup to you would probably make my head explode. HAHA
Thanks for the input!
i BELIEVE i had one of hte most aggressive setups on here
from mild

to wild

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i BELIEVE i had one of hte most aggressive setups on here
from mild
[img]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1293/807322022_de0677565b.jpg[/img]
to wild
[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2114/2238057203_e428c07d36_b.jpg[/img]
Yokotas13;202400 wrote:i BELIEVE i had one of hte most aggressive setups on here
from mild
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1293/807322022_de0677565b.jpg
to wild
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2114/2238057203_e428c07d36_b.jpg
I don't even need to say anything.
Anyway,
Front
20 x 9.5 +25 (58mm)
Big Caliper Disk [R-Disk] with RCAs installed
Rear
20 x 10.5 +20 (100mm)
Deep Rim Disk [O-Disk]
What are the tire recommendations? Will the tires last longer than two oil changes?
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[quote=Yokotas13;202400]i BELIEVE i had one of hte most aggressive setups on here
from mild
[url]http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1293/807322022_de0677565b.jpg[/url]
to wild
[FONT=monospace]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2114/2238057203_e428c07d36_b.jpg[/FONT]
[/quote]
[IMG]http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n309/thuggg77/akuma-sa2.gif[/IMG]
I don't even need to say anything.
Anyway,
[B]Front[/B]
20 x 9.5 +25 (58mm) [I]Big Caliper Disk[/I] [I][R-Disk][/I] [U]with RCAs installed
[/U]
[B]Rear[/B]
20 x 10.5 +20 (100mm) [I]Deep Rim Disk [O-Disk][/I]
What are the tire recommendations? Will the tires last longer than two oil changes?
Franklin;202397 wrote:Yeah, I know. What I was trying to get at is if it's possible to have the wheel be as flush as Pic A while having a 3.5"-ish lip BUT have the tires tucked more than what you see in Pic A while not having excessive negative camber.
i must not be understanding what you are trying to accomplish. looking back through the thread if what you are wanting is tucked tires, flush wheels, and near oem camber (which you actually stated quite clearly) the answer would be in rolling/trimming the fenders flat and running an aggressive stretch. you threw me off with the a/b pics but it seems that you're on the right track.
Roll-center adjusters www.exactmotorsports.com makes them for my car. You really think my set up is mild? hahahhaa
i stand corrected.i have no idea what those do.
mild as far as suspension geometry; yes. drop looks good though.
I don't know what to say, but it's definitely food for thought. Thanks. :)
the reason i say this is lip will vary from wheel to wheel and disk to disk. you need to figure out your widths/offsets then play with disk types for brake clearance/max lip.
Haha a basic setup on VSC is bananas to me. An aggressive setup to you would probably make my head explode. HAHA
Thanks for the input!
most ppl on vsc are running mild suspension. agreesive, to me at least, is something like grant or others had/have. once you get into adjustable arms/rods and the like that's where it gets advanced. maybe miild isn't the word since it implies a small drop... more like simple.
---
like i said, it sounds like you got it under control, you just confused me a bit but looking back everything fell into place. just find the correct widths/offsets and work from there. less camber = more stretch if you plan on going low enough to tuck tire.
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[quote=Franklin;202397]Yeah, I know. What I was trying to get at is if it's possible to have the wheel be as flush as Pic A while having a 3.5"-ish lip [U]BUT[/U] have the tires tucked more than what you see in Pic A while not having excessive negative camber.[/quote]
i must not be understanding what you are trying to accomplish. looking back through the thread if what you are wanting is tucked tires, flush wheels, and near oem camber (which you actually stated quite clearly) the answer would be in rolling/trimming the fenders flat and running an aggressive stretch. you threw me off with the a/b pics but it seems that you're on the right track.
[QUOTE]Roll-center adjusters [URL="http://www.exactmotorsports.com/"]www.exactmotorsports.com[/URL] makes them for my car. You really think my set up is mild? hahahhaa[/QUOTE]
i stand corrected.i have no idea what those do.
mild as far as suspension geometry; yes. drop looks good though.
[QUOTE]I don't know what to say, but it's definitely food for thought. Thanks. :) [/QUOTE]
the reason i say this is lip will vary from wheel to wheel and disk to disk. you need to figure out your widths/offsets then play with disk types for brake clearance/max lip.
[QUOTE]Haha a basic setup on VSC is bananas to me. An aggressive setup to you would probably make my head explode. HAHA
Thanks for the input![/quote]
most ppl on vsc are running mild suspension. agreesive, to me at least, is something like grant or others had/have. once you get into adjustable arms/rods and the like that's where it gets advanced. maybe miild isn't the word since it implies a small drop... more like simple.
---
like i said, it sounds like you got it under control, you just confused me a bit but looking back everything fell into place. just find the correct widths/offsets and work from there. less camber = more stretch if you plan on going low enough to tuck tire.
Lets say you get the width/size/offset/tire size down to what you want. But the thing is, it might come in as a standard 2" lip. But if you want a 3.5" lip on top of the width/size/offset/tire size. You might find yourself as pic B. So then you would have to calculate the width/offset to accomodate the 3.5" lip. So higher offset and lower width would help get you a fatter lip. Disk is only for BBK
I would search in the picture thread and pm that person on what there stance is. Getting as much info on what kind of stance your looking for, is better than having to make a big costly mistake.
Most peeps in here are buy the wheels then make the car fit them.
Good luck and hopefully someone can get your question answered.
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Lets say you get the width/size/offset/tire size down to what you want. But the thing is, it might come in as a standard 2" lip. But if you want a 3.5" lip on top of the width/size/offset/tire size. You might find yourself as pic B. So then you would have to calculate the width/offset to accomodate the 3.5" lip. So higher offset and lower width would help get you a fatter lip. Disk is only for BBK
I would search in the picture thread and pm that person on what there stance is. Getting as much info on what kind of stance your looking for, is better than having to make a big costly mistake.
Most peeps in here are buy the wheels then make the car fit them.
Good luck and hopefully someone can get your question answered.
those sizes wil work good for what you want. just stick with those
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those sizes wil work good for what you want. just stick with those
IS3_FTW;202482 wrote:Disk is only for BBK
not correct lip size on a high disk will be smaller than a normal disk will be smaller than a low disk. width/offset being the same.
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[quote=IS3_FTW;202482]Disk is only for BBK[/quote]
not correct lip size on a high disk will be smaller than a normal disk will be smaller than a low disk. width/offset being the same.
Well I have the tucked look on bags but closest to maybe what you want to drive on as a daily ?
I am sure if I ride down with 19x10 22 offset and fenders shaved in rear it doesnt hit and the camber isnt really that bad .. 3 mil clearance
As for tires falkin , Generals , bf all good brands ... I am running falkins 225 front and 235 rear and have no issues with speed aswell ... 19x9 0(wider front fenders) and 19x10 22 combo
In order to achieve the look of (B) you have to be ready to have no air leaks if running air in future other wise your rim will hit the fenders ...
I understand what you are saying but if you want that look gotta pay to play ... also Picture A has on positive camber rear arms in order to correct your camber .. and thats from Exact Motorsports
hope that helps
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Well I have the tucked look on bags but closest to maybe what you want to drive on as a daily ?
I am sure if I ride down with 19x10 22 offset and fenders shaved in rear it doesnt hit and the camber isnt really that bad .. 3 mil clearance
As for tires falkin , Generals , bf all good brands ... I am running falkins 225 front and 235 rear and have no issues with speed aswell ... 19x9 0(wider front fenders) and 19x10 22 combo
In order to achieve the look of (B) you have to be ready to have no air leaks if running air in future other wise your rim will hit the fenders ...
I understand what you are saying but if you want that look gotta pay to play ... also Picture A has on positive camber rear arms in order to correct your camber .. and thats from Exact Motorsports
hope that helps
Bippu PxrLex;202622 wrote:
I understand what you are saying but if you want that look gotta pay to play ... also Picture A has on positive camber rear arms in order to correct your camber .. and thats from Exact Motorsports
hope that helps
Yes, I know. ;) I purchased a set for the front and rears from them though I still haven't installed either.
Thanks for the post. :)
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[quote=Bippu PxrLex;202622]
I understand what you are saying but if you want that look gotta pay to play ... also Picture A has on positive camber rear arms in order to correct your camber .. and thats from Exact Motorsports
hope that helps[/quote]
Yes, I know. ;) I purchased a set for the front and rears from them though I still haven't installed either.
Thanks for the post. :)
I would use a shorter tire to get the car lower (plus, it just looks more to scale)
Probably 235/30-20 & 255/30-20 with those widths.
I'd go 20x9.5 + 20x10.5
With 20x8.5 front there will be no stretch at all.
Without stretch, you cannot make them flush.
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I would use a shorter tire to get the car lower (plus, it just looks more to scale)
Probably 235/30-20 & 255/30-20 with those widths.
I'd go 20x9.5 + 20x10.5
With 20x8.5 front there will be no stretch at all.
Without stretch, you cannot make them flush.
hm i need to get some better pics of mine...
i have SC2s, 19x9 +27 19x10 +23 Lo disk all round. 235/35 front 245/35 rear. rears tucks some tyre, front just in line with guards. i had it a bit mroe flush and it was scrubbing up and down my driveway so i got it cambered somemore just for practicality. i got an alignment and although to me the front and rear wheels look different to each other, using stock arms at my height camber is about -2 (or close enough to) all round
ill get some better pics i guess tomorrow night, but im sortof somewhere between pic A and B
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hm i need to get some better pics of mine...
i have SC2s, 19x9 +27 19x10 +23 Lo disk all round. 235/35 front 245/35 rear. rears tucks some tyre, front just in line with guards. i had it a bit mroe flush and it was scrubbing up and down my driveway so i got it cambered somemore just for practicality. i got an alignment and although to me the front and rear wheels look different to each other, using stock arms at my height camber is about -2 (or close enough to) all round
ill get some better pics i guess tomorrow night, but im sortof somewhere between pic A and B
SoCalSC4;203826 wrote:I would use a shorter tire to get the car lower (plus, it just looks more to scale)
Probably 235/30-20 & 255/30-20 with those widths.
I'd go 20x9.5 + 20x10.5
With 20x8.5 front there will be no stretch at all.
Without stretch, you cannot make them flush.
Yeah, I decided 9.5s up front. Thanks for the tire recommendations :biggthumpup:
ant_jzs160;203880 wrote:hm i need to get some better pics of mine...
i have SC2s, 19x9 +27 19x10 +23 Lo disk all round. 235/35 front 245/35 rear. rears tucks some tyre, front just in line with guards. i had it a bit mroe flush and it was scrubbing up and down my driveway so i got it cambered somemore just for practicality. i got an alignment and although to me the front and rear wheels look different to each other, using stock arms at my height camber is about -2 (or close enough to) all round
ill get some better pics i guess tomorrow night, but im sortof somewhere between pic A and B
Yeah, I saw your thread so your flicks definitely helped me. Assuming my lip would get as close to the fender as Pic B, I may get a +23 like you to give it some space.
With everyone's help so far, I'm probably going to say fuck it with the rear and eliminate the rear RCAs from the equation to get it where I
really want it.
Front:
20 x 9.5 +25 (58mm) Big Caliper Disk [R-Disk] with RCAs installed and cutting the bump stop to give the UCA more clearance if necessary
Rear:
20 x 10.5 +20 (100mm) Deep Rim Disk [O-Disk]
Tires:
235/30-20 fronts and 255/30-20 rears
Would my lip be as close to the fender as Pic B if I was to lower my car that much because he's also running +20.
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[quote=SoCalSC4;203826]I would use a shorter tire to get the car lower (plus, it just looks more to scale)
Probably 235/30-20 & 255/30-20 with those widths.
I'd go 20x9.5 + 20x10.5
With 20x8.5 front there will be no stretch at all.
Without stretch, you cannot make them flush.[/quote]
Yeah, I decided 9.5s up front. Thanks for the tire recommendations :biggthumpup:
[quote=ant_jzs160;203880]hm i need to get some better pics of mine...
i have SC2s, 19x9 +27 19x10 +23 Lo disk all round. 235/35 front 245/35 rear. rears tucks some tyre, front just in line with guards. i had it a bit mroe flush and it was scrubbing up and down my driveway so i got it cambered somemore just for practicality. i got an alignment and although to me the front and rear wheels look different to each other, using stock arms at my height camber is about -2 (or close enough to) all round
ill get some better pics i guess tomorrow night, but im sortof somewhere between pic A and B[/quote]
Yeah, I saw your thread so your flicks definitely helped me. Assuming my lip would get as close to the fender as Pic B, I may get a +23 like you to give it some space.
With everyone's help so far, I'm probably going to say fuck it with the rear and eliminate the rear RCAs from the equation to get it where I [I]really [/I]want it.
[U][B]Front[/B][/U]:
[B]20 x 9.5 +25 (58mm)[/B] [I]Big Caliper Disk[/I] [I][R-Disk][/I] [U]with RCAs installed and cutting the bump stop to give the UCA more clearance if necessary
[/U]
[U][B]Rear[/B][/U]:
[B]20 x 10.5 +20 (100mm) [/B][I]Deep Rim Disk [O-Disk]
[/I][U][B]Tires[/B][/U]:
235/30-20 fronts and 255/30-20 rears
Would my lip be as close to the fender as Pic B if I was to lower my car that much because he's also running +20.
Franklin;203899 wrote:Yeah, I decided 9.5s up front. Thanks for the tire recommendations :biggthumpup:
Yeah, I saw your thread so your flicks definitely helped me. Assuming my lip would get as close to the fender as Pic B, I may get a +23 like you to give it some space.
With everyone's help so far, I'm probably going to say fuck it with the rear and eliminate the rear RCAs from the equation to get it where I really want it.
Front:
20 x 9.5 +25 (58mm) Big Caliper Disk [R-Disk] with RCAs installed and cutting the bump stop to give the UCA more clearance if necessary
Rear:
20 x 10.5 +20 (100mm) Deep Rim Disk [O-Disk]
Tires:
235/30-20 fronts and 255/30-20 rears
Would my lip be as close to the fender as Pic B if I was to lower my car that much because he's also running +20.
with that size and offset in the rear your gonna have to pull the rears a lil unless your on air
View original BBCode
[quote=Franklin;203899]Yeah, I decided 9.5s up front. Thanks for the tire recommendations :biggthumpup:
Yeah, I saw your thread so your flicks definitely helped me. Assuming my lip would get as close to the fender as Pic B, I may get a +23 like you to give it some space.
With everyone's help so far, I'm probably going to say fuck it with the rear and eliminate the rear RCAs from the equation to get it where I [I]really [/I]want it.
[U][B]Front[/B][/U]:
[B]20 x 9.5 +25 (58mm)[/B] [I]Big Caliper Disk[/I] [I][R-Disk][/I] [U]with RCAs installed and cutting the bump stop to give the UCA more clearance if necessary[/U]
[U][B]Rear[/B][/U]:
[B]20 x 10.5 +20 (100mm) [/B][I]Deep Rim Disk [O-Disk][/I]
[U][B]Tires[/B][/U]:
235/30-20 fronts and 255/30-20 rears
Would my lip be as close to the fender as Pic B if I was to lower my car that much because he's also running +20.[/quote]
with that size and offset in the rear your gonna have to pull the rears a lil unless your on air
Hehe, I decided to go with a different set of wheels and specs.
20 x 10.5 +27 (100mm) O-Disk for the rear
If I added an extra 7mm to Pic B, it looks like I would clear the fender. :biggthumpup: Since I have a black car, the shaved fender wouldn't be as noticeable. If the wheel still can't clear the shaved fender then I am confident an extra 3mm (to get a +30 offset) will clear the fenders.
As for the front:
20 x 9.5 +30 (60mm) R-Disk (Big Caliper Disk) with RCAs installed and cutting the bump stop to give the UCA more clearance if necessary
View original BBCode
Hehe, I decided to go with a different set of wheels and specs.
20 x 10.5 +27 (100mm) O-Disk for the rear
If I added an extra 7mm to [URL="http://planetplugged.net/images/mode_cl_thread/IMG_4302_sm.JPG"]Pic B[/URL], it looks like I would clear the fender. :biggthumpup: Since I have a black car, the shaved fender wouldn't be as noticeable. If the wheel still can't clear the shaved fender then I am confident an extra 3mm (to get a +30 offset) will clear the fenders.
As for the front:
20 x 9.5 +30 (60mm) R-Disk (Big Caliper Disk) [I][U]with RCAs installed and cutting the bump stop to give the UCA more clearance if necessary[/U][/I]
man i just went and took more close up pics for ya haha ima go get some dinner then come back and upload them anyway !
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man i just went and took more close up pics for ya haha ima go get some dinner then come back and upload them anyway !
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haha i got lazy.. alright here goes..
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6/ant_s13sil/GS300%20Project/Fitment%20closeups/Wheelfitment008.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6/ant_s13sil/GS300%20Project/Fitment%20closeups/Wheelfitment007.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6/ant_s13sil/GS300%20Project/Fitment%20closeups/Wheelfitment006.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6/ant_s13sil/GS300%20Project/Fitment%20closeups/Wheelfitment004.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6/ant_s13sil/GS300%20Project/Fitment%20closeups/Wheelfitment002.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e6/ant_s13sil/GS300%20Project/Fitment%20closeups/Wheelfitment003.jpg[/IMG]
plenty of angles :biggthumpup: