Car is dead still ... any help ?

1999 Gs400 

Ok I have search the whole boards and some on Google .. 

I started the car and then it died after 5 mins ... 

Then as I go to start I have issues having it start again .. 

further attempts  = dead battery 

Once I got a new battery I was told I should clean the MAF sensor and clean the TB, Also replaced the battery with a new one .. 

I have done all the above .. 

I got a code reader and it was telling me this ... 
______________________________________
p0100 maf or vaf circuit malfunction
p0110 air intake temp circuit malfunction
p1120 no def available
______________________________________
I have replaced the MAF sensor tonight and I still have a dead car ... I have unplugged battery for 5 mins .. is that long enough ?

any information would help ... 


after searching some more I found this code ... 

P1120 TP Sensor Out Of Range Low (Ratch Too Low) 

Is there any way to remap the Maf sensor ?   I don't have a Manuel but any help will be appreciated. where would the VAF circuit and the cost of those ?  or a way to trouble shoot 

James

it wouldn't be a main relay if they have them? i know on honda's the main relay does that when it gets to a certain temperature

nahh all relays and fuses are good


imma check fuel too ... maybe the damn code reader aint pickin that up too

go borrow another throttle body from another car and try it, either fom gs or ls400...
i've dealt with alot of v-8 tundras with this similar problem..

i got an idea.... engine swap time??? lol jk
 
i hope you get the ride up and runnin bro!

it most likely is the TPS or something with idle control..    It does idle well and sounds well those 5 minutes it does start up?    If you reset the ECU does it start up again or if the engine is cold?     Use a volt meter and take measurements of the TPS sensor.

unplug the tps and see if it will idle.

make sure the MAF sensor is pointing in the right direction. This is a common problem when people either replace or re-install the MAF sensor. The car will not start if this is the case.

do you have a bad idealer( how eva u spell it) check your fuel puum see if you can hear it cut out on you....

I had this exact same problem.  I thought it was the battery, it turned out to be the fuel pump.  Not too sure if it's the fuel pump in your case, but when I replaced mine's, it started working again.

best thing to do is get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the sensors like previously stated and then go from there

Three things when dealing with a car that won't start/run. 

Air, Fuel, and Spark. Check which one isn't working, then diag the problem from there. 

I've read on CL about gs400's having TPS/Throttlebody problems. Try cleaning yours, or switching from one that is in known working condition James. 

If you can't find one locally (shane maybe?) then hit up Aliga on CL, since he's a parts vendor.

if u have this code
 
[U][COLOR=#800080]P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction (1999 GS400)[/COLOR][/U] 
 
replace ur throttle body..
 
i've replaced over 10 of those everytime i get that code..

But Would a throttle body be the reason why a car wouldnt fire up ? 
 
found a new one for 158.00 at autozone .. for the TB sensor , I am just thinking this sounds like more of an issue .. 
 
Keeping in mind my car doesnt fire up at all even when cranking over strong .. Fuel pump is going strong , from what I hear and would a tps control spark ?  I know the coilpack does but what controls that ?
 
Thanks guys keep comments coming and I was wondering what the advantage of unplugging the tps when I have unplugged the battery for over 15 mins ... 
 
 
So I have replaced the Maf and its facing the correct direction too . Thanks and I appreciate it

Alternator maybe? my car had same symptoms as you and it was the Alt.

[quote=JOee;216349]Alternator maybe? my car had same symptoms as you and it was the Alt.[/quote]
Car wouldn't crank if it was the alternator, battery would drain too quickly, or it would die while running. 
 
James, did you ever figure out if it were your coil packs? It could be those, as well...
 
I do read on CL of people replacing the throttle body/a secondary TPS? Something like that, best way is to trouble shoot if you can find someone who has one working. Maybe get a hold of John and see if you can borrow his?

[quote=Caoboy;216358]Car wouldn't crank if it was the alternator, battery would drain too quickly, or it would die while running. 
 
James, did you ever figure out if it were your coil packs? It could be those, as well...
 
I do read on CL of people replacing the throttle body/a secondary TPS? Something like that, best way is to trouble shoot if you can find someone who has one working. Maybe get a hold of John and see if you can borrow his?[/quote]
 
 
 
i doubt its ur coils, since it all individual, never have i seen couple coils go out at once... if one or two goes out, it'll still run and ur get a misfire code.... 
 
those throttle bodys r tricky... theres like a motor in those throttle body.. and two potentiometer sensors (TPS) in there...  best way to test the sensor itself is get a scan tool that can graph, then ur'll have to compare tps 1 to tps 2..and if its out of range, it wouldnt know how much to open the trottle, how much fuel to run, how much to ignite..etc...  voltmeter wont do shit for testing these kinds of sensors beacuse if theres a glitch in the voltage, ur volt meter wont show... 
 
TPS DOES affect fuel and timing 
 
but anyways, that shit is confusing if u have no clue what ur doin....
 
like what i said, go borrow someones throttle body, shit only takes 5 mins to exchange...and save like couple hundreds bucks if u was to buy one and it wasnt it...
 
but anyways, i could be wrong, im just sayin what i think, i cant sit here and diagnois the car for you without the rite tools in ur hands..

the first thing I would check is the air boot for any kind of air leak . Also make sure all the hoses are on tight. A small vaccum leak will cause it not to start. Check the plug on maf
To make the wires did come loose on the back side.

have you checked to see if your timing belt was on mark, the timing belt jumping just half a tooth could cause it not to start...just a suggestion

1 tooth out would make it run like a pig

James have you tried to keep the gas pedal to the floor when you start it? what does it do, does it just keep turning over or does it stumble to try to start. If it stumbles to start or starts and dies it the MAF i just worked on a Focus with a bad MAS and what sucked is the MAS they sent me was bad as well sometimes you get bad parts check the ohms on these sensors hope this helps

For 1999 Lexus GS 400 V8-4.0L (1UZ-FE)

TPS SENSOR

[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83341827.gif[/IMG]
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals VC and E2. Resistance: 1.25-2.35 kohms at 20°C (68°F) If the resistance is not as specified, replace the throttle position sensor. 
Reconnect the throttle position sensor connector

Mass Airflow Sensor

[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83333431.gif[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83333432.gif[/IMG]

Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals THA and E2. If the resistance is not as specified, replace the MAF meter.

[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83333433.gif[/IMG]

Inspect for operation.
Connect the MAF meter connector. 
Connect the negative (-) terminal cable to the battery. 
Turn the ignition switch ON . 
Using a voltmeter, connect the positive (+) tester probe to terminal VG, and negative (-) tester probe to terminal E2G. 
Blow air into the MAF meter, and check that the voltage fluctuates. If operation is not as specified, replace the MAF meter. 
Turn the ignition switch OFF . 
Disconnect the negative (-) terminal cable from the battery. 
Disconnect the MAF meter connector.
 4. REINSTALL MAF METER  

Install the gasket to the MAF meter. 
Install the MAF meter with the 2 bolts and stay. Torque: 10.7 N.m (109 kgf.cm, 8 ft.lbf) 
 5. RECONNECT MAF METER CONNECTOR  

Good luck James!

[quote=solareclipseauto;216404]have you checked to see if your timing belt was on mark, the timing belt jumping just half a tooth could cause it not to start...just a suggestion[/quote]
 
 
I think he'd be hearing a whole lot more than cranking, aren't the 400's interference motors?

^^^^ yeah i dont think its timing if it was it would start or backfire or sound like a rock tumbler and yes its an interference engine which then you got to ask. James did the car die on you or did you come out one morning and it did not start? Did it make any unusual noises while driving or did you feel loss of power? Did you wash down your engine I know it rained pretty good these past weeks maybe moisture in the conections?

the car started right up ... As the car was warming up I do the Normal  and kick up throttle .5 higher as normal so the drain on the alt doesnt kill the car ... 

as it was filled enough to go outside .. the compressors were still on ... and car on .. I walked in side for 2 mins... outside the car was dead and compressors still on .. I tried starting it and it was done ...  

as I kept cranking it was trying to start and dead .. 


then I got a new battery and its cranking strong but dead still 


Thanks for all the great advice guys i will begin on testing all these items asap tomorrow once i have the Volt meter and ohm

if the alt was bad ?   if i tried jumping car would it still start ?  


Normally I'd say yes ...  but gotta ask 2 times ... thanks

also Rene ! thanks for shoing me that graph ... I had no idea those plugs were there to test ...  Jeez ... 


ok putting all the screws back on the tps until i read the meter

[quote=Bippu PxrLex;216471]if the alt was bad ? if i tried jumping car would it still start ? 
 
 
Normally I'd say yes ... but gotta ask 2 times ... thanks[/quote]
 
Yes, it would work, but then die. A good way to test (though I have heard on newer cars it can mess up the ecu or something) would be to jump the car, if it starts up, pull the ground off the battery. If it dies right away, you know the alternator is not working. The alternator, besides charging the battery, runs all the electrical systems of the car while it is running. Battery basically only starts the car.
 
BUT if your alternator were dead, and the engine died, but then your compressors were still on...I guess that would be the alternator if the compressors didn't draw too much but your engine drew way more....eh...don't want to confuse you.
 
Your battery should be getting 14.4 volts running, 12 off. If it's not getting 14.4 running, then it is your alternator....
 
400 sucks for pulling out the alternator, and you have to in order to test it at a shop IIRC.

My car is stuck in the house with crazy wheels and a dead car , bad combo .. 

also the car jumping still didnt start which ruled that out


im out for the night i have to wake up in 5 hrs

Hope you get the car running.My Q didn't turn on today but made a magic call and whala got it running.

Any updates James?

so from what im reading, cranks strong but doesnt start.... check for spark and for fuel, 2 elements needed for combustion. fast way to check for spark is to spray intake cleaner/or carb cleaner into the throttle body as you crank the engine. if it fires up, something dealing with fuel delivery is bad, most likely the fuel pump. if it doesnt fire then you got an ignition problem. that ones a little harder to explain to diagnose.... hope you find out your problem soon... i hate the feeling of having a car down, let alone a car down for a long time.

thanks brotha ..

Here is my update for tonight,


I just purchased new plugs NGK Iridiums, they were needed , and that was a freaking 75ish dollars ...  aswell ...

tonight I just removed the Alt.  cant hurt to find out if it is working or now ... it is past 9 pm so damn missed auto zone tonight

also checking resistance of the tps updated will follow .. 

James

Well the MAF is reading dead and the tps is reading good ... I am lost , taking back maf and exchanging it out , getting my alternator test for what the hell ... 
 
 
and the new plugs will be installed too , Since the Timing belt is off and I seem tiny cracks .. from just sitting .. I am buying a new one tonight too... Just complete updates that I havent done
 
In regards to this aswell ... Did this happen to me at perfect timing ? yes (worsttime)

I am in the middle of fitting these crazy wheels and on the Cover of the Wek-fest Feb 8th Car event in SF ... omg ... Thanks for reading my updates guys

g'damn, i wish you the best of luck.

If you need a throttle body just pm me. I have a used one .

Good luck with the car

another way to check the TPS is with key in the ON position (not eng run) check your voltage coming from TPS (should read about .5V) then open it to WOT and check the voltage again (should read 4.5-5.0V) if thats not within specs then theres something funky with your TPS
 
then post #21 by aristo93 the paragraph under the last pic is another test to do but im not sure what the voltage specs are supposed to be. id just do what it says and when you blow in it if that creates more voltage then it's probably good. hope that helps:shrug:

[QUOTE=RotaryAE86;216865]another way to check the TPS is with key in the ON position (not eng run) check your voltage coming from TPS (should read about .5V) then open it to WOT and check the voltage again (should read 4.5-5.0V) if thats not within specs then theres something funky with your TPS
 
then post #21 by aristo93 the paragraph under the last pic is another test to do but im not sure what the voltage specs are supposed to be. id just do what it says and when you blow in it if that creates more voltage then it's probably good. hope that helps:shrug:[/QUOTE]

yeah on that test when you blow into the MAS  the voltage should just flucuate as long as it reads higher or moves up in voltage than its good

[QUOTE=RotaryAE86;216865]another way to check the TPS is with key in the ON position (not eng run) check your voltage coming from TPS (should read about .5V) then open it to WOT and check the voltage again (should read 4.5-5.0V) if thats not within specs then theres something funky with your TPS
 
then post #21 by aristo93 the paragraph under the last pic is another test to do but im not sure what the voltage specs are supposed to be. id just do what it says and when you blow in it if that creates more voltage then it's probably good. hope that helps:shrug:[/QUOTE]

James, if you try to open the tb, remember its drive by wire, so u have to physically open it by  hand.

well the tps tests good I can run further test ...  the alternator is passed good on 3 tests .. !! which i was sure of but scared to shell out another 400 for that 


maf is not in stock calling back tomorrow and picking up new one friday .. and then testing TB   I will pm u if I need one (please don't rape me in price) haha I have to get these arms and finish the car WOOT !

Pm me you shippin info. I'll send the TB. So you test it on your car. Just pay the shippin. If it fixes the car you can pay what you think is fair. If not just send it back to me.

[quote=OneSODA;216993]Pm me you shippin info. I'll send the TB. So you test it on your car. Just pay the shippin. If it fixes the car you can pay what you think is fair. If not just send it back to me.[/quote]
 
 
dont get no better than that..

thats pretty tight ! ok pming you now

[quote=aristo93;216418]

[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83333431.gif[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83333432.gif[/IMG]

Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals THA and E2. If the resistance is not as specified, replace the MAF meter.

[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83333433.gif[/IMG]

Inspect for operation.
Connect the MAF meter connector. 
Connect the negative (-) terminal cable to the battery. 
Turn the ignition switch ON . 
Using a voltmeter, connect the positive (+) tester probe to terminal VG, and negative (-) tester probe to terminal E2G. 
Blow air into the MAF meter, and check that the voltage fluctuates. If operation is not as specified, replace the MAF meter. 
Turn the ignition switch OFF . 
Disconnect the negative (-) terminal cable from the battery. 
Disconnect the MAF meter connector.
 4. REINSTALL MAF METER  

Install the gasket to the MAF meter. 
Install the MAF meter with the 2 bolts and stay. Torque: 10.7 N.m (109 kgf.cm, 8 ft.lbf) 
 5. RECONNECT MAF METER CONNECTOR  

Good luck James![/quote]

Hey Rene this is the 2nd MAf and seems to be working fine .... updates to follow

Ok cool let me know if you need any diagrams or test procedures I have alldatapro and that tells me everything you need to kno on how to repair or test anything.

Just reinstalled Alternator , now for the new plugs , then the new serpentine belt 


If still no luck I will look forward to that tb

I have installed the plugs , new belt , made sure the alt is good to go , 

and the Maf is good ... but I will need to test the TB now for sure ... 

anyone have a picture of how big this assembly is My roomie was saying just the plastic part ... but I wasn't sure .. 

thanks


reading 2 codes again ... 

p0110
p1120 again .... sheesh I would love to test that Tb now ...

I'll ship you the TB later today

awesome ! jus let me know the cost , ground shipping

make sure to check ALL the fuses...sometimes it's the stupidest little thing that triggered it.

Hey James, we're in the same boat!

I was replacing my spark plugs today, and busted a bolt tightening down the coil pack...hopefully I can get it out. 

Hang in there, or just give up and replace with one of those crazy motors on CL!

part on its way , and i wish i had just one prob like that ,  


I feel like i have done a bit to the lexus since i have owned it just in this last month

I receieved the throttle body in the mail last night from ONESoda .. Thanks again man .. 
 
I was gonna ask if this was from a gs430 or a gs400 ? I dont have the tube coming off from the top of the TB ... i will make the switch and buy a new hoe that had a small tar which i seen tiny amouts of radior fluid leaking from .. and bolt everything back up .. again thanks for the part and will keep you guys posted on if the part works or not ...

Tb didn't do anything .. car is still dead .. Ecu test next .

anyone local as hell I haven't met ?

sucks! just take it to a lexus professional bro.

thats suck man, id hate for you to keep throwing parts at it, thats not the problem... check for spark and fuel. 2 key components in combustion. one without the other and your car wont start. if you dont have both, check the crank sensor. 
 
damn, i was in the bay for the holiday... i wouldve came out and gave a hand too...

i think thats the wrong throttle body, since u said theres an extra hose? but anyways, i wish i can help but too far out of my way, im a tech for toyota and im familiar with that p1120 code, its always the thottle body...
 
as far as internet diagnostic, very hard to do since everyone has there own way of approaching steps and pin pointing items..

You might want to tranfer the tps to your tb to see if it will work.

this is what happened 

posted another spot ... 

Hmmmmm 

Ok after receiving a throttle body from a member of vsc forums in Florida , I have installed it and now reading an addition code , p1128 , throttle body motor malfunction on top of the p0110 , 

I am looking to check the Ecm unit but needing to know what are the chancing i am taking by giving this to another member to see if it will work on his car ?


I also tried to reprogram key (a member on cl linked me to that thread)  no luck either .....

also have heard I cannot switch ECU's because of the security issues , having to change the chip in keys and maybe the ignition

Now if I check the ECM in another car its coo not switching anything , If i try the ECU then I have to rip the guts out of both cars keys and switch it  , but not change out the ignition

I am off Wednesday and will meet up with lightwave76 i hope ... 

I would have taken the car to a professional but since I was lazy before After 3 days the car is on the ground from an airleak ... no way to start it up but to run cables from one car to another and give it power to juice it up and no one knows how to do that but me , other words kinda fucked if this ecu and ecm test dont work ... 


Thanks for reading guys .. you have been the most helpful 

There is a chance now with the throttle motor malfunction code that the tb could be bad too .... just frustrated ... how out of the blue the car is fucked up

btw , for the crank sensor , would that be read on the OBD2 reader ? 

and Rene know where to look ?

If your car is still dead take it to a pro. Stop messing around time is money!

James, do the GS's have a wire harness loom above the front left or right wheel well? If so, has your wheel rubbed through the wires?

[quote=Insignia;220046]If your car is still dead take it to a pro. Stop messing around time is money![/quote]


:pat: well If I could have the car at a pro shop i would  , and the car will be on the ground after it is aired up ... in 2-3 days ... plus towing fees ... iono if its worthed ... :thelaw:



Also will look at car if the loom has been rubbed but I doubt it I drive kinda high

[quote=Insignia;220046]If your car is still dead take it to a pro. Stop messing around time is money![/quote]


holy shit..why didnt i think of that..:pat:


yes james. take it to a pro. lol cuz your shit sounds fucked.

Here you go James hope this helps and if you need anything else let me kno

Crank Shaft position sensor location

[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83336226.gif[/IMG]

How to remove

[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83336245.gif[/IMG]

2. REMOVE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR  

Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor connector. 
Remove the bolt and crankshaft position sensor
 3. REINSTALL NEW CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 
a. Install a new crankshaft position sensor with the bolt. 

Torque: 6.5 N.m (65 kgf.cm, 58 in.lbf) 


Connect the crankshaft position sensor connector.
 4. REINSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER

Heres how to test the sensor

[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83335547.gif[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q36/Junction1stGenGS/83335548.gif[/IMG]

INSPECT CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 
Remove the sensor. 
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals. Resistance: If the resistance is not as specified, replace the sensor. 
Reinstall the sensor.

Here is the location of the solution to your problem:

[img]http://www.lexusofhawkesbay.co.nz/show_image.asp?uidimage=6412[/img]

^^ rofl.

^^ FUCK THAT. 
 
I took a broken bolt to Lexus, they told me it broke because I'm not supposed to remove it. I told them that I broke it, putting it back in and over tightening it, and that it's physically impossible to remove spark plugs without removing these bolts and pulling out the coil packs. They said I have to just loosen the bolt, it's not suppposed to come out, and you are able to move the coil pack. I told them it can't be done, there's no room to move the coil pack. They said 'huh'. I said, I don't know what I'm talking about then, since I changed theme overtightened this tiny ass bolt, but I'll go to Home Depot, and find the same type of bolt after searching for like 20 minutes. They wanted me to buy a new coilpack to give me the bolt. Idiots. 
 
I bet those fuckers just change out the 3 spark plugs on a GS300 that aren't covered by the coilpacks, and just change the others by saying the customer needs new coilpacks. 
 
 
 
Sucks to hear your car is still down James, I need to buy a new code reader to figure out what's really wrong with mine now...I've got the whole VSC/VSC OFF/CEL problem going on now...Something to do with the TB I know that, but not exactly what...
 
But hey, you've got some badass rims!

haha thanks brotha ! 


Rene thank you sir ! I have a bad Crank sensor I believe after checking it tonight ...  I put my Tb back in and adjusted the tps and it cranked over but did not start .. I have put my stock TB back in the car and took out the one from Florida ;)  

Now to test a crank sensor ! caoboy wanna drive up and we can obd2 test your car ?  its a ten mil bolt and unplug a sensor ... 

lemme know and Thanks guys

the obd2 didnt rear anything about a crank sensor ... I will look up for a used one to test if no luck .. 

Thanks Guys

Can't timing belt is cracked too. I ran into all these lil problems at once, and this big one comes up too...bleh thanks for the offer though. I've been meaning to get this one code reader too. I'll post it up when I get to my comp, but it's pretty sick. I think it's the scangaugeII or something.

[quote=Caoboy;221207]Can't timing belt is cracked too. I ran into all these lil problems at once, and this big one comes up too...bleh thanks for the offer though. I've been meaning to get this one code reader too. I'll post it up when I get to my comp, but it's pretty sick. I think it's the scangaugeII or something.[/quote]
 
 
I hope you mean your serpertine belt is only cracked .. I replaced mine just becuse it might have been needed
 
I need to look up the crank sensor online today and see if i can buy one ,
 
I am only borrowing my friends obd2 reader i didnt buy one either

I've tried to avoid the fuckery in this thread but I can't hold it in anymore! :saiyancrunks:
James you have money! Take it to the dealer like you should have in the first place! Would save so much time and headachs! 
:thelaw:

bro , think I wouldnt have made a thread like this if I couldnt find useful information in CL or on here for my model of my car ,
 
Also I dont have money like you think i do ... also the pain of having someone else work on my car when I know the car will be fully bagged in two-three days of me dropping it off .. ? + towing fees and having that company needing me to go there and jumping it off my other car just to have it in the air. 
 
Not worthed IMO  unless i try to fix this myself ... which i have been doing ... Now if this doesnt work then I have no options but to spend $$$ at lexus or another place.
 
Keeping in mind , Hondas and 240s I have done Many of those , but the lexus i have been learning and this has helped ... I hope the crank angle sensor would be the problem .. that is needed when starting the car.
 
Oscar i just changed jobs, just got new check ...  and was planning on recieving cash from a dickbag who owed me ... which didnt happen ... we can say enuff to have this car at the dealer and paid for ..   
 
Dog i would not have made this to appease the crowd ... its a learning tool aswell

I hear you about gaining the knowledge/experience but man! at this point I would jus take it there. But of course the trick is to find a trusting dealer/person that you know will take good care of your car.......
:shrug:

Whatevers though! Hope you get your shit worked out! :biggthumpup:

on the phone with some dicks that put me on hold forever ... 
trouble shooting is becoming a pain because i dont have anyone local .. ;\

James if you dont get this fixed by next weekend im making a roadtrip to help u out!

hjaha thanks Rene !  all good man .. well its good to have the 528i as a daily . 


in CL i had 50 views and () comments to see if anyone would let me test theirs . so gonna buy one tomorrow and wont be in till Monday 

Wierd how there is no code for this but also its a two prong wire power and ground so ehh .. 

my bmw would catch that code asap but not the freaking lex

James, if you don't mind, would you make a post reviewing what you've already troubleshooted, and what the problem still is?
 
AND have you tested the dummy stuff already? You know, the stuff that gets looked over, like, did you make sure you have gas in your tank? I know, I know, it sounds stupid, but sometimes...it might be.
 
And yes, I did mean my timing belt. It has cracks where the teeth are, I'm going to drive it around town, but don't want to take a trip where it could break and my car be fucked outta town ya know?
 
Good news for me is my pop's started my car after I reset the ECU (had the wires pulled off the battery) and pulled my car into the driveway (because I'm currently in Vegas right now) and the codes cleared (for now hopefully) 
 
So...hang in there man, if you can find a toyota tech (aftermarket techs that specialize in toyota) that will fix lexus' then as a last resort go for it man. SOMETIMES you need that extra help.

Enter text here.i ordered the crank angle sensor and will be in tomorrowand I met a guy last night at a party who has a 20 year toytoa tech who can be affordable ..


I hope this is the issue .. 

Thanks guys 

Btw I have gas half tank premium

Rene can you call me ..  

707-592-2777

specs on the cam angle sensor ? anyone and Rene where did you get all that info on the car i can not find anything online at all ;(

Man take that bolt out and replace that crank sensor!!Do you have no spark?

spark is small as hell ,  The crank position sensor works fine , friend read the multimeter wrong so I got money back just curious to find out what the cam angle sensor is gonna read ... 

Its 117 each and there is two of them ...

both sensors are reading.008  is that right Rene ? 


I am buying a book for my car asap so i can have the info

I had luck with it starting again and then dieing asap ........ still not sure  and its all packed up for the car to go to the shop .. 

Heres a quick list of everything that was done for my car in the month is was down 12/28/2008

Spark plugs changed with Iridium
New 850 ccas Interstate battery
Tested Alternator passed 3 times
Checked TPS (in range)
Checked Crank position sensor (in range)
Checked Crank position sensor (in range) 
Exchanged Throttle body and found it had a (bad motor) ?
Checked the ECM trouble shooting and works fine
Checked all wires to the Ignition switch and ECM and EFI relay and readings good
Ignition fuse good
All Fuses good
Checked almost Complete Harness No breaks
Checked one coilpack test (low spark)
changed out to a new Serpentine belt


Thanks to Rene yesterday for the extra info on all the specs for the car helped alot for alot more tests but still no luck with the lex 

Many more things but those are relevant to this issue and still no luck ,. when I find out whats going on I will have it posted up for 99 Gs400 owners

Btw I am about 150k too

I have also considered how even long the car will will be down for maintenance I will not be putting the crazy wheels on the car looking at 3-5k in body work for the rear , I have another option but we will see how much the place is looking at charging  

115.00 Toyota dealership  , 105 another reputable shop and 92.70 an hr , from my Bosses family friends shop

I have packed the car all back together tonight  and have the front new wheels on the rear and Fits amazing ;P  maybe teaser . sucks this happens but its life . thanks for anyone who read this

can u take a pic of ur coil packs? and maybe what they sit on? and also to check ur coil packs you can take a DVOM and measure the resistance. just put the positive to one pole and the neg to the other. i dont know what the specs are but if you can find out then at least you can eliminate that as an option

Thanks bro , but iono where i can get the (dvom) so i have tryed alot of things but its time to move the car out soon and pay up 

plus I have hear it would be insane if all or most of the coilpacks have went out at once ..  but yea never know

Is it possible your timing belt busted?

he posted earlier (or maybe i saw it on CL) that he replaced the timing belt bc it had small cracks. 

james, maybe you could have your ecu tested or something? since youve replaced/tested just about everything, i dont know what else could be. i really hope you get this solved soon bro.

DVOM is another term for a Digital Voltage and Ohm Meter:biggthumpup:

[quote=airmax;224364]he posted earlier (or maybe i saw it on CL) that he replaced the timing belt bc it had small cracks. 

james, maybe you could have your ecu tested or something? since youve replaced/tested just about everything, i dont know what else could be. i really hope you get this solved soon bro.[/quote]
Oh...I thought I read Drive Belt...

He did test the ECU already as well. 

It's going to be something stupid like someone put a condom in his fuel tank in a hurry to hide the evidence :smiley-rofl:

James, could it be the immobilizer? [URL]http://www.vipstylecars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=224425#post224425[/URL]

Just a thought...but then...would it have worked when you changed ecu's...Do you have an aftermarket alarm?

i thought he said he couldnt change ecu's because of the immbilizer? maybe i didnt read carefully enough, im all out of ideas :sad:

I think on club lexus he said he did or something. idk.

wow, hopefully he's not responding b/c he got it fixed and it was something stupid that none of us thought of like a flux capacitor.....

Edit:
LOL I only left that up as long as I did because its a weekend and because its early in the morning. Lets keep this clean

. . .

. . .

So any luck?

back from the dead.... the thread and your car.... did you figure out this problem...?

Yea the car is running , 

Sooo ...  Well a month prior to this happening ...I had a car event I had to go to .. I had to drain the tank .. Once I had taken the gas out of the tank .. .I checked the gas gauge and it showed .5 tank still ... Was little lost thinking there was a reserve tank or I didnt go in far enough ... I asked friend they didnt know ... I drove the car around and the gauge went down a fraction .. 

I taken the car to work 1 hr away ... and then to the event that night ... 

drove the car back 1 hr and har dparked it ... drove it around 2 more small times since then ... 

ended up being that i had to pay a shop to tell me either the fuel pump was No spinning delieverying fuel Or I was out of gas ....  I was like wtf ? 

after driving 100+ miles I didnt think it could be the gas ... but wished in case of Not replacing the fuel pump it was something very small ... 

with the car out of gas I had 3 codes ...replaced alot of things Not needed ... 

over all the car was fine .. I paid a shop 198.00 to tell me the car was out of gas ... 





My gas gauge was telling me I had less than half tank .. I remember that night when i took some gas out and it was full from the beginning ... and here we are ... 

thanks for looking into and all the help .. I ahve mailed back the throttle body back to onesoda ... Thanks again bro .. 

and will add this to the list of checks ... add 1 gallon of fuel ... 

whats weird is that the car had gas soaking the plugs too ...  Iono ... its over though..

also add that I bought a new MAF sensor during all this ...

dam done all that and the problem ended being no fuel. its odd taht your tank read a little below half though. i read or watched it somewhere taht this guy bought a car and it always read half full. a tech checked it out n it ended up having a few pound of weed in his tank that was worth a few grand. some in your tank? lol

[quote=RotaryAE86;224970]wow, hopefully he's not responding b/c he got it fixed and it was something stupid that none of us thought of like a flux capacitor.....[/quote]
 
 
 
or out of gas. dont feel bad dude, i had the same thing happen to me on my wifes car, the miles til empty read 150 and i tested everything and couldnt figure it out then i took it to a shop and charged me alot for putting gas in my car:pat: