Any painters?

any body techs or painters in here...i know a few in here paint leisurely...urmyhere4now was gonna blast his ride last i remember...firelizard sprays...Ray blasted his LS red...looks like he did a good job...
 
anyone else plan to paint thier car?

I havn't painted anything since my school days.  I did prime a couple of cars since though.

i dabble......secretly:inouteek:

i went to school for it.....a while ago.

does rattle canning a truck that I got for free count? :dance:
No... I don't paint.

[quote=widebody_Q;223697]I havn't painted anything since my school days.  I did prime a couple of cars since though.[/quote]

+1

[quote=shawnthemonster;223907]i went to school for it.....a while ago.[/quote]

+2

Water color, mostly.

daygo has a shop in san dog i think.......

I'm planning on attempting to paint my new car this spring. That'll be a build thread for sure, at least just for the paint.

If I collect all the body panels I need for my 240SX there'll be two paint/build threads =)

i painted my kit in my backyard with a good compressor and cheap HF guns.

Chris

so for all of us amateur to professional what guns are you spraying?
i have a old devilbiss finishline for surfacer another devilbiss finishline flg3 for my sealer a devilbiss mac tools edition gti for my base and  iwata lph400 for clear....

I own my own bodyshop here in northern cali. We're using the new Dupont waterbourne paint. I do my own color matching in house and use only Iwata's, one for clear and one for my base color. I just purchased a finex gun for my sealer and a cheap gun for my primer. 
 
Been doing this type of work for a long time and if you guys have any questions just let me know.

hi, i went to school for it, got a degree in it. worked in the field for a while and now only do it as a hobby. i help out at the shop i used to work at from time to time. i spray iwata. one gun for base, one gun for clear. i use an iwata air gunza for primer surfacer, and the base gun for sealer.... the gun makes a big difference imo... the different tips really makes a difference too...  

my old boss uses a sata to spray his primer surfacer...:biggthumpup:

[QUOTE=mista808;224344] the different tips really makes a difference too....[/QUOTE]
i have some big tip like 1.6 or 7 for surfacer....1.5 for sealer.....1.2 for base.. and another 1.2 for clear..... its sad i havent used these guns for about 3 years... :(

I am a bodyman. I started out as a painter and got bored. I have 3 Satas and 1 Iwata. How do you guys in Cali like waterborne.

like everything in the body/auto/collision world, different products has its advantages and disadvantages...i sprayed solvent in hawaii and now i spray water in cali...switched from standox to PPG...and quite honestly, the PPG line is really growing on me...i haven't sprayed the solvent version of PPG, I've only sprayed dupont...when we switched to PPG water i heard nothing but bad things...however, those bad things referred to their solvent line...they really have waterborne down to a science...their color chips make it easier to color match...their 'drop coat' makes it easier to blend metallics/beige/pewters...and their catalyzed base coats cuts jamming time in 1/3...the major difference in water vs. solvent is how you prep...you need to be more meticulous when prepping water...
 
i'm using a sata 95 (1.6 tip) for primer...2 iwata lvx for base (1.3)...w-400 (1.3) for jamming and solids...sata nr2000 1.4 for sealers...
 
i was using a 1.3 sata 3000 for clear but don't like it too much...i'm more a finese painter...i like to work slow and watch my material lay down so i went back to my 1.4 iwata LV4...the iwata saves a more on material as well...less overspray...another good thing is the iwata automizes better at lower psi than the sata so i get less dirt and rubbish in my final product...

VIP-UCF,
 
Your right when it comes to prepping panels for blend. The blend panel must be prepped perfectly or else you will see imperfections. The other thing about waterbourne is the cycle time. It's definetly harder to push out more cars because of the flash time. 
 
I'm currently using Dupont Cromax stuff and let me tell you this stuff is badass when it comes to color matching. They also gave me a camera which can give me the best alternative when it comes to old paint and let me tell you it comes really close. 

Coverage is also better and less transparent than the solvent paint. Overall, I really like this stuff and can't imagine shooting the old stuff again. The only set back that I can think of is that it would be really hard for a person to do side jobs with this stuff because number one it is very expensive and secondly you're going to most likely switch up gun and change your technique a bit to adapt to this new stuff.

we have the new novaverta paint booth...it has all the bells and whistles and costs easily over $250K...having a temp controlled booth is a must with water...the flash time does take longer with water but we have the booth set at 86* and we use the iwata aquadry to help the flash time...sanding the base with water can by tricky as well...eventhough the base feels dry to the touch, it stays gummy for a long time and sanding out a little piece of rubbish can cause major headaches...i agree with you, side jobs are nearly impossible with water...i mean, you can do it but having the right facility is half the battle...not like solvent where you can use fast basemaker and have the base try in a couple seconds tack it off and clear it...
 
its funny that you say coverage is faster with water...i tend to disagree...it may be the PPG paint line that's hard to cover...it takes 4-5 coats just to get full coverage with black on gray primer...it must be because i don't remember having that hard of a time covering with standox except for transparent colors like red/blue pearls...with the PPG, if you don't put black sealer on it, forget about it...you'll put 10 coats down and still see a halo...
 
i heard shooting the dupont water was similar to standox...its pretty much like a wet on wet coat?  and truth to that?  PPG tells you to back off and spray the drop coat at 12 PSI!...haha...the first time i shot at 12 psi i felt like i was doing something wrong...
 
just before i left hawaii, they were setting up the camera to get better color matches but once we all tried it, we lost faith in it...no one really used it...but then again, its hard to teach old dogs new tricks...

I do. I have worked with Standox, Diamont, Chroma Premier (Dupont), SEM, HoK piece of shiet paint and PPG (only clears). My fav is Diamont whenever I have to do colormatching but for coverage and custom work Standox is king. PPG and Standox are the best clears out there but I once cleared my car with Hot Hues Clear (dupont) and it was relly nice. I won't even go to describe the bad experiences I had with HoK products, specially the clears. Call me a hater, but I won't buy from them nothing. I had more success spraying SEM than HoK and any clear from HoK requires reducer which makes the finish look dull after about a week sprayed. My guns are mainly Amnest Iwatas (300 and 400) but I have a couple matco gus for super big flake, sealer and primer as well as my mini-jet. 

I am also a professional polisher and I specialize on black and dark color cars; done a bunch of work fro densetsu motorsports and damicci knows of most of my work... since I will be doing his Q45 pretty soon.

I still do this on the side (I werk at Intuit) and I'm trying to get my portfolio on the net. Did this cressida but that is the only pic I have outhere: 
[IMG]http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagames/NFS/speedhunters.com/Images/AntonioAlvendia/Events/RedBull%20World%20Drift%20Championships/IMG_5603%20copy.jpg[/IMG]

^^^yo dude, what PPG clear do you like? 
 
 
I've sprayed hok clear a few times...imo, its nice...has a deep gloss...flows nicely but not worth the money...the mixing ratios are super critical...5% leeway can throw off the cure/flash times quite a bit...if you don't let the first coat of clear flash off properly, especially with top surfaces like hood and roofs, it may solvent pop and make the gloss look hazy...a digital scale is a must when mixing hok...

look who i ran into the other day.... dennis puttin it down...
 
[IMG]http://i39.tinypic.com/ddorw3.jpg[/IMG]

haha...who's that bum...

I used a shitty Harbor freight gun.  1.4 tip.  Used Southern Polyurethanes primer and Clear.  Used Dupont DBC (i think that's what it was).  The Southern Poly clear is awesome and is cheap!  Had two guns....primer and color for one and clear for the other.  Good gun to practice with, but not for serious painting.

Chris

so for those who dabble in garage painting, how do you keep your guns clean...?

you need a 5 gallon drum of thinner...a solvent pump...a long solvent brush and a normal brush that comes with your gun...and 2 one gallon cans...one can empty and one can 3/4 full of thinner...
 
once you're done painting...dump out all the fluids that are in your gun into the empty can or recycle the material if you can use it again...spray out all the fluids in the gun...disconnect gun from coupler and squeeze the trigger until everything comes out...pump a little thinner in your gun, put the top on, shake it a couple times and empty everything in the empty can...
 
take the solvent brush...dip it in the gallon can with thinner and brush the inside and outside of the cup...again, empty all the fluids into the empty can...put a little more thinner in the cup and empty the gun again until its ALMOST empty...
 
connect the gun and spray out with the air all the way open...tap the tip with your finger a couple times and 'backfire' the gun...you obviously want to make sure the top is off and the top of the cup facing away from you and towards a wall...
 
if you use one gun for multiple purposes, always make sure you take the cap off and clean it good...take the fluid needle out and wipe it down too...if you plan on using the gun again in a few days, its a good idea to keep thinner in your gun...
 
hope this helps...

Another way to actually help aid in cleaning the gun is unscrew the tip close to it being near off and drop some thinner in there and pull the trigger it will actually help purge the barrel. You'll see pressures of bubbles work there way aggitating the left over paint in the barrels.

i see alot of experience painters here, can you guys help me out on my thread as well? i dont wanna own VIP-UCF's thread, lol. my threads titled "[B]considering painting my LS400 on my own...[/B] "

so what kind of paint do you guys recommend? i will be doing a complete 2-tone black and red. i dont have a fortune to spend so dont say house of kolor or sikkens...

dupont or sherwin williams....