Trying to understand wheel spacers/lug adapters.

Ok as I do my normal search for used jdm wheels I come across quite a bit that I think will work but they are 5x114.3 while my car is 5x100. Now in a very quick ebay search I found 1 inch thick/25mm thick adapters. These were the only ones I found just doing a quick search. My question is; if my car currently has a 17x7 with let's say a generic fwd offset of 48, and it sits flush up front. What offset can I run with a 25mm spacer to equal this flushness? 23mm or 73mm? This is where I'm confused on top of the fact that I haven't seen any thing in 73mm come out of Japan lol so this leads me to believe that I would need to run the 23mm. If someone out there understands what I'm saying please explain to me how spacers affect the wheel. Thanks!

Simple math...

17x7 +48 offset = (17x7 +23mm offset) + (25mm spacer)

Yes, also be sure your stock lugs are long enough for the adapter, hub centric, and go with a reputable brand. You don't want those cracking...

Ok now part 2. That would give me clearance inside but what about fender flushness. If the +48 has a 1 inch lip and the +23 has a 2 inch lip I know the spacer will give me clearance on the strut but it'll push that extra lip outwards. Wouldn't that affect fender flushness?

Ok now part 2. That would give me clearance inside but what about fender flushness. If the +48 has a 1 inch lip and the +23 has a 2 inch lip I know the spacer will give me clearance on the strut but it'll push that extra lip outwards. Wouldn't that affect fender flushness?

lol simple math FAIL people!
 
everyone has shit backwards here my friend.
 
if you want 17 x 7 +48 and are going to be running a 25mm spacer, you will be looking for:
 
17 x 7 (48 + 25) = +73. So you were correct, you would be looking for a 17 x 7 +73 wheel.
 
This means the wheel has an offset of +73, then once you add the 25mm of spacer you are effectively LOWERING the offset of the wheel as you are pushing it outwards. As such, the 73 with the spacer has a effective offset of +48.
 
Like you say, good knows what company makes +73, that is liek the highest offset known to man lol. I say you will need to man up and run more stretch & camber. Basically most Japanese companies can do custom offset ranges, so if you go new you might be able to get like a +50 or something. Once you do the spacer this ends up +25. So 13mm more aggressive than what you have.

^ correct... spacers act as negative offset so:
 
73 + (-25) = 48
 
you need to find a wheel that's 5x100 or redrill. any +73 wheel is gonna look ridiculous. it gets even worse when you consider a wheel of decent width.
 
7j + 73 = 8.5j +92
 
you're already so high up in offset that adapters are just a bad idea. of course you said a "generic fwd offset" so it might not be as bad as it sounds.

Can you recommend a reputable company please? Also the ones I was checkin out on ebay have their own studs. You bolt em to urs and cut off the excess then mount the wheels flush on the spacers own studs.
[QUOTE=m0nster986;244079]Yes, also be sure your stock lugs are long enough for the adapter, hub centric, and go with a reputable brand. You don't want those cracking...[/QUOTE]

Ok cool. I was planning to stretch and camber whatever I ran anyway I just didn't know how far out they would stick. Ok so say I stick with a 7 inch wheel with +23 offset and I'm running the 25mm spacer. This would equate to having a 7 inch wide wheel with -2 offset correct? Long story short the wheel would stick out 1 inch further than flush which I would have to compensate for with camber is this correct? How many degrees of camber would make atleast an inch dissappear?[QUOTE=ant_jzs160;244087]lol simple math FAIL people!
 
everyone has shit backwards here my friend.
 
if you want 17 x 7 +48 and are going to be running a 25mm spacer, you will be looking for:
 
17 x 7 (48 + 25) = +73. So you were correct, you would be looking for a 17 x 7 +73 wheel.
 
This means the wheel has an offset of +73, then once you add the 25mm of spacer you are effectively LOWERING the offset of the wheel as you are pushing it outwards. As such, the 73 with the spacer has a effective offset of +48.
 
Like you say, good knows what company makes +73, that is liek the highest offset known to man lol. I say you will need to man up and run more stretch & camber. Basically most Japanese companies can do custom offset ranges, so if you go new you might be able to get like a +50 or something. Once you do the spacer this ends up +25. So 13mm more aggressive than what you have.[/QUOTE]

Well I dunno what offset I currently have because what I did was just buy wheels from a guy with a newer camry and the fronts fit flush but the rears are battleship. Toyota designed the car with like 5mm less track in the rear. Now that I think about it the fronts fit flush with factory alignment settings. Now the factory alignment for this car upfront is +1 degree now that I think of it. Basically to get some decent wheels I'll need some camber plates to give me quite a but of degrees of adjustability. Now I gotta see how much my suspension can take before there is binding because of the negative camber. [QUOTE=BLKonBLK98;244089]^ correct... spacers act as negative offset so:
 
73 + (-25) = 48
 
you need to find a wheel that's 5x100 or redrill. any +73 wheel is gonna look ridiculous. it gets even worse when you consider a wheel of decent width.
 
7j + 73 = 8.5j +92
 
you're already so high up in offset that adapters are just a bad idea. of course you said a "generic fwd offset" so it might not be as bad as it sounds.[/QUOTE]

Dude, whatever wheels you are looking at, it is NOT worth how much effort this will take. You could get a set of work wheels for what you'd pay to redrill (and ship them there and back) run spacers, camber plates?? Come on man... there are MANY MANY MANY wheels out there, its like girls, many fish in the sea. I knew this girl, she was extremely unique, attractive, and could be the mother of my children... you know what happened? She got HPV. No matter how much I like her, no one is worth a heatknife to the pork sword. Move on to the next set... it's not worth the trouble... there are people here (including myself) that would be more then happy to hear what size diameter and style wheel you want and go find you something that will work without redrilling or spacers. The finish is not important you can redo it yourself if you want thats not a big deal. Redrilling is a big deal.

I just can't seem to find much wheels in 5x100. Maybe I'm looking in all the wrong places. But it seems like what I can find I don't want. Mainly BBS RS wheels or OZ Futuras. Can you recommend some sites?

Sorry but I'm posting from my phone so editing is a bit hard but I'm looking for 18 inch wheels 8 inches wide up front the widest, I'd prefer 7.5. 9 to 9.5 in the back 5x100 bolt pattern. Offsets I'm unsure of at this time. But I'm sure what ever you can find making them work won't be too much on an issue since those are pretty tame sizes as far as widths are concerned..

Go to RBwheels.com, they've got plenty of used wheels in a 5x100 format.
 
Push yourself,  find a wheel you like, then slap on a 25mm adapter, and pull your fenders/add flares and be done, if you can't find one that's already 5x100.
 
Don't puss out, just do work.
 
PS. 
 
Subarus are 5x100.

Subarus are as well as vdubs. But it seems as though not many suby guys got any vip inspired wheels lol because the 5x100 vip styled wheel market is preety slim pickins.lol I was on rbwheels earlier they only had like 2. They had some fabolous profounds in 5x100 two weeks ago but I don't like that style of wheel. The sites I normally check are them and memoryfab.com. All memory fab has that'll work for me are BBS RS' and OZ Futuras. I would consider the futuras because I like the thick 5 spoke which I like but I want some thing more dish type like some euroline DHs. DHs I usually come across every so often in 5x100. So I guess I'll keep an eye out for those. Last set I saw of DHs in 5x100 were 17's though.

I'm not afraid of doing the work to make them fit.lol it's just that I'm soooooo picky.

fender work will also help fit, don't have to try and take it all up by camber...G/L

all else fails, buy new. those 5x100 wheels didn't come from fairy land. they will build em for ya.

just so you know, projectnissan.com has 15mm adapters, i have always ran 5x114.3 wheels on my VWs (5x100)  and used 15mm adapters to do it, took a lil lug reworking and other research but i love doing that type of shiz.

pics of said adapters

[IMG]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22/brmd56/100_1176.jpg[/IMG]

i dont know what you are looking for as far as fitment and what you stance looks like now but with some stretch anything is possible :D

i had 18x10s in the rear of my vw with  no camber adjustment, do some more research , this site is helpful too

[URL]http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp[/URL]

Bart - you're a lifesaver! BonB - the reason I am not buying new right now is because I'm not completely sold on 18's or 19's yet. I'm going to go through sets of each then decide which I like better. After that I'll go for a new purchase. These 15mm spacers sure made life a tad easier. But as bart said I still need to do more research.

Thanks a lot everyone.

Go with 18's. 

Your car is REALLY small. 18's will already look big, and will look perfect if done right. 

Just achieve tsuraichi. 

Look to 'firelizard' for success. He's got an older Protoge, which is about as big as your camry.

The end goal for this car as far as wheels are concerned is either gonna be some waffes or varianza d3s'. I'll be buying them new when I am settled on size whichever is cheaper. 

I usually do look at where firelizard is going with his car. Thanks. Also tsuraichi is japanese for "stance + fitment"?

"Rim and fender as one" as I learned it...lost in translation maybe, but the meaning is the same...

I searched. And found meanings on here but yeah that is what I'm going for. That's what I love about fitment. When the fender is less than half inch from the rim. I assume that suspension has to be extra extra extra firm to prevent them from meeting.  I guess that's where low and slow comes into play to also avoid them from touching when a dip or pothole comes up.