UCA banging resolved

Finally meet someone who confidently said that doing the work for allowing the UCA extra clearance was a piece of cake.  He does some custom fabrication on some sick Drag Cars.  It costed more then expected, but the quality of work well made up for it.  

And the pics.....
[IMG]http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w191/taeng93/photo2-1.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w191/taeng93/photo-1.jpg[/IMG]

thats excellent

Im not exactly sure what Im looking at. What was done? What kind of car?

[quote=Lexus Soarer;244392]Im not exactly sure what Im looking at. What was done? What kind of car?[/quote]
 
i think this is a gs300 and that funky ass lookin box stickin up next to the coilover is what was added...extra clearance to ride lower..cuz apparently gs300s have clearance issues with the upper control arm slapping the top of the chassis.:biggthumpup:

Thanks bud. Im not too familiar with the engine bay on a GS but that problem would piss me off too. I didnt realize they needed that much clearance. Looks cool.

right on!now it looks like you have a lot of travel now.

I need to get this done. How much did it cost you? I might go the cheaper route of just making a hole.

Verrrry nice! Im jealous

looks real nice... could pass for oem.

sweet as heck, nice work.

It costed me 6hrs of labor coming out to $500.  When I first paid him a visit he told me it should only be 3hrs of labor, but it took his guys twice as long.  Normally I would have tried to say something about the price, but when I saw the finished product my jaw dropped.  I didn't tell him to do anything beside making me the box.  He made the two mounting points on the box to remount the ingnitor and the other thingy on the drivers side.  He also painted it for me as well.  I thought he was just going to give it back to me raw metal.  Everything looks OEM, I've popped the hood to several people and they didn't even notice.

I got to see how it goes when my rims get in and I slam it all the way down.  Currently at my height places where I would smack the chasis while driving my normal route doesn't exist anymore.  It's such a huge relief!  Now I don't feel as if I'm destroying my car.  Now I just have to get rid of that popping/clunking sound when I turn my wheel.  I heard getting new bushings resolve that issue.

Looks good, but this is the much easier and cheaper route:
[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd240/b8ter/Layin%20Accord/DSupper.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd240/b8ter/Layin%20Accord/PSUpper1.jpg[/IMG]

both are good examples. that car is on hydros? any pics of the outside at full slam?

[QUOTE=OCKlasse;244436]Looks good, but this is the much easier and cheaper route:
[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd240/b8ter/Layin%20Accord/DSupper.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd240/b8ter/Layin%20Accord/PSUpper1.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]

OC agreed that your route is easier and cheaper, however I didn't want an exposed hole.  I wanted it to look OEM and if I choose to sell, it would be an easier sell.

[quote=volkgt7;244438]both are good examples. that car is on hydros? any pics of the outside at full slam?[/quote]

It's an Accord...

[img]http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd240/b8ter/Layin%20Accord/Layinafterext.jpg[/img]

[QUOTE]OC agreed that your route is easier and cheaper, however I didn't want an exposed hole. I wanted it to look OEM and if I choose to sell, it would be an easier sell.
[/QUOTE]

I could see that. It just does not bother me as much as it does you. That's cool, it looks clean :biggthumpup:

honda UCA's are NOWHERE NEAR as durable as lexus ones. i put a camber correction kit on my 93 accord and the control arms banged as a result of it. the ball joints were done within 2 days. im still not sure which version i will do on my car

Very cool!  I ran into this on my SC400 and KA9.  Its quite the bang when it hits ha

[QUOTE=taeng;244432]Now I just have to get rid of that popping/clunking sound when I turn my wheel.  I heard getting new bushings resolve that issue.[/QUOTE]

Ball joints. I replaced mine when installed the coilovers on my GS400 and it FINALLY went away. When you turn the wheel does it hit a point where it pops once or go clunk-CLUNK?

[quote=Green Grundel;244499]Ball joints. I replaced mine when installed the coilovers on my GS400 and it FINALLY went away. When you turn the wheel does it hit a point where it pops once or go clunk-CLUNK?[/quote]


Agreed... balljoints not bushings.   Balljoints are a weak point on our cars, and should be replaced at a minimum of every 100K.  For slammed guys, to be safe, probably 50K.

[QUOTE=Green Grundel;244499]Ball joints. I replaced mine when installed the coilovers on my GS400 and it FINALLY went away. When you turn the wheel does it hit a point where it pops once or go clunk-CLUNK?[/QUOTE]

it goes clunk clunk...It's not the balljoints I already did those about 6 months.  There's a thread on CL about the bushings.

i want to do this to my car.

i did tp my car about 2 years ago..
[IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/gs300/01282008085.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/gs300/01282008086.jpg[/IMG]

greatest thing i ever did.. it gave me quite a bit more travel..
BUT theres a harness running along the top of the wheel well
and i started rubbing that, so i had to relocate my wires.
just make sure u aren't eating up wires or anything..

and as for the safety and "oh u need to reinforce it" bull shit.
ive done it. and its been holding up for 2 years.. when i hit big bumps
it will bottom out ON THAT HOLE so the upper control arm hits the hole.

theres no "stress" cracks, theres no pressure marks or anything showing
signs of weakness..

i know when i was gonna do this, everyone and their mom would speculate
this and that about how its not safe.. but its 2 years later and i haven't seen
anything change except for the added travel of my control arms..

i used a hole-saw bit that can cut metal and i went slow... took me 10 mins a 
side? and then i painted it black..

Hey Joey, how big is that hole? And how did you figure out where to cut?

i think it was a 2.5" or a 2" hole saw blade..
but as for where to cut, i saw a small indentation of where the
UCA was hitting.. like it actually put a dent going UP.
and that was my center point..

if u lookinside the wheel u should see some damage or banged up
metal

Thanks Joey. Do you think you can measure the hole for me? I'm on the fence between 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 holes in my engine bay.

Go 3" to be safe? The room is there.

my idea was always cut a 3" (for example) hole and then weld in a ring made of 3" (for example) o.d. thick wall pipe to give the hole a lip for a finished off look. don't ask me why i even have an idea but no lexus...
 
i think i actually prefer the hole to the box aesthetically. looks kinda cool.