spacer help
so i got some 15mm adapter spacers and my wheels hit the factory studs cuz they dont have spaces on the mounting pad. should i grind the oem studs down or replace them with 60mm studs and not use the adapter studs?
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so i got some 15mm adapter spacers and my wheels hit the factory studs cuz they dont have spaces on the mounting pad. should i grind the oem studs down or replace them with 60mm studs and not use the adapter studs?
Did you get the spacers that are slip on type or bolt on type?
sounds like you got the bolt on type to me...
I'd say get the 60MM studs, but those studs aren't always going to work with some wheels especially if they have the wheel center covers on them.
and even then, you'll run into same problem if you got the bolt on type of spacer. but you already stated that. you can always press out/hammer out the studs on the spacers if you are going to get 60mm studs and that should work out for ya.
Hope this helps.
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Did you get the spacers that are slip on type or bolt on type?
sounds like you got the bolt on type to me...
I'd say get the 60MM studs, but those studs aren't always going to work with some wheels especially if they have the wheel center covers on them.
and even then, you'll run into same problem if you got the bolt on type of spacer. but you already stated that. you can always press out/hammer out the studs on the spacers if you are going to get 60mm studs and that should work out for ya.
Hope this helps.
i think he got the adapter kind.
if its the stud only and not the bolt and stud, then I say just cut the stud down. make sure you got the bolt on there first....that way you can re-thread the cut stud once you unscrew it.
or you can get lightning pockets made to your wheels.
thats what I did, but mines was hitting the thread and the bolt...
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i think he got the adapter kind.
if its the stud only and not the bolt and stud, then I say just cut the stud down. make sure you got the bolt on there first....that way you can re-thread the cut stud once you unscrew it.
or you can get lightning pockets made to your wheels.
thats what I did, but mines was hitting the thread and the bolt...
they are the bolt on type.
aye gato what am i lookin at to get the pockets made, about how much per wheel?
i think i can find a shop to do that easily
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they are the bolt on type.
aye gato what am i lookin at to get the pockets made, about how much per wheel?
i think i can find a shop to do that easily
its easier to take an angle grinder to the offending stud.
studs are cake to replace at a later time
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its easier to take an angle grinder to the offending stud.
studs are cake to replace at a later time
Yokotas13;268203 wrote:its easier to take an angle grinder to the offending stud.
studs are cake to replace at a later time
+1
I wouldn't risk destroying a couple thousand dollars worth of wheels to save a $15 stud.
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[QUOTE=Yokotas13;268203]its easier to take an angle grinder to the offending stud.
studs are cake to replace at a later time[/QUOTE]
+1
I wouldn't risk destroying a couple thousand dollars worth of wheels to save a $15 stud.
i had the same problem with my work meisters not having groves near the hub. Only way U could clear them is getting at least no less than 25mm spacers or just shave the oem stud
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i had the same problem with my work meisters not having groves near the hub. Only way U could clear them is getting at least no less than 25mm spacers or just shave the oem stud
vip tint+glass;268181 wrote:they are the bolt on type.
aye gato what am i lookin at to get the pockets made, about how much per wheel?
i think i can find a shop to do that easily
Drilling cavities in the wheel really isnt a big deal, but I agree with the others, if its just the stud the wack it....
I did the pockets cause bot stud and bolt hit.
a machine shop can do it. 50 per wheel. ( or just dremel the bolt yourself for free)
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[QUOTE=vip tint+glass;268181]they are the bolt on type.
aye gato what am i lookin at to get the pockets made, about how much per wheel?
i think i can find a shop to do that easily[/QUOTE]
Drilling cavities in the wheel really isnt a big deal, but I agree with the others, if its just the stud the wack it....
I did the pockets cause bot stud and bolt hit.
a machine shop can do it. 50 per wheel. ( or just dremel the bolt yourself for free)
implayaz_9;268240 wrote:i had the same problem with my work meisters not having groves near the hub. Only way U could clear them is getting at least no less than 25mm spacers or just shave the oem stud
A 25mm spacer won't clear either.
Cut the studs and call it a day!
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[QUOTE=implayaz_9;268240]i had the same problem with my work meisters not having groves near the hub. Only way U could clear them is getting at least no less than 25mm spacers or just shave the oem stud[/QUOTE]
A 25mm spacer won't clear either.
Cut the studs and call it a day!
aight imma grind the ones that hit. i think 3 per wheel. i dont wanna do the others, but then ill have to line the wheels up exactly the same every time i unbolt em.
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aight imma grind the ones that hit. i think 3 per wheel. i dont wanna do the others, but then ill have to line the wheels up exactly the same every time i unbolt em.
I had to do both on my SC400. Machined pockets and cut the studs. The pockets had to be machined because I had 2mm machined off the front and back of a 15mm bolt on spacer. This left the knurls of the studs in the spacer hitting the wheel mounting pad.
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I had to do both on my SC400. Machined pockets and cut the studs. The pockets had to be machined because I had 2mm machined off the front and back of a 15mm bolt on spacer. This left the knurls of the studs in the spacer hitting the wheel mounting pad.
BEnxD;268260 wrote:A 25mm spacer won't clear either.
Cut the studs and call it a day!
Yes, a 25mm spacer will clear. It sits flush with the studs, as well as the shorty lugs to bolt on the spacer.
You won't have a problem running 25mm on the GS.
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[QUOTE=BEnxD;268260]A 25mm spacer won't clear either.
Cut the studs and call it a day![/QUOTE]
Yes, a 25mm spacer will clear. It sits flush with the studs, as well as the shorty lugs to bolt on the spacer.
You won't have a problem running 25mm on the GS.
Caoboy;268342 wrote:Yes, a 25mm spacer will clear. It sits flush with the studs, as well as the shorty lugs to bolt on the spacer.
You won't have a problem running 25mm on the GS.
I've tried mounting 25mm spacers
twice and both times it just ended up mounting the wheels to the studs. Unless the 2GS studs are shorter than the SC studs, it's not going to work.
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[QUOTE=Caoboy;268342]Yes, a 25mm spacer will clear. It sits flush with the studs, as well as the shorty lugs to bolt on the spacer.
You won't have a problem running 25mm on the GS.[/QUOTE]
I've tried mounting 25mm spacers [I]twice[/I] and both times it just ended up mounting the wheels to the studs. Unless the 2GS studs are shorter than the SC studs, it's not going to work.
BEnxD;268388 wrote:I've tried mounting 25mm spacers twice and both times it just ended up mounting the wheels to the studs. Unless the 2GS studs are shorter than the SC studs, it's not going to work.
Well I've used 25mm spacers on my 2nd Gen GS, and it was flush.
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[QUOTE=BEnxD;268388]I've tried mounting 25mm spacers [I]twice[/I] and both times it just ended up mounting the wheels to the studs. Unless the 2GS studs are shorter than the SC studs, it's not going to work.[/QUOTE]
Well I've used 25mm spacers on my 2nd Gen GS, and it was flush.
If you don't use extended studs and cut them, you'll have to replace the stock studs later on anyway. It's either you replace them now or later.
Are the 15mm's going in the front or rear? The rear studs are a pain to replace.
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If you don't use extended studs and cut them, you'll have to replace the stock studs later on anyway. It's either you replace them now or later.
Are the 15mm's going in the front or rear? The rear studs are a pain to replace.