So Cal Fender Roller borrow/rent

Any one in So Cal willing to loan out a fender roller. I dont mind leaving some cash as a deposit. I just don't see reason to buying one for a couple hundered and am only gonna need it once. If I changed rides more than I changed underwear, I'd just get one myself, but that ain't the case. Or if ya got a homie that may be willing to do it too, LMK please, I need to get this done.

i got one but im in norcal haha... gl finding one

heat gun and rubber mallet is all you need.

thats what i do.

Hahaha that's exactly what I used to fit my current set up, but I need to go wider, and I don't think the mallet and heat gun are gonna cut it to do a pull

actually, broke, i prefer a pull with a sledge, terry towel, and a bernz-o-matic torch. you don't get that crazy lip and the fender looks more like stock (unless that's the look you're going for). my Q's pulled about an inch every side on the rear like that (i finished it off with a newspaper flare).

can i see a picture of your flare?

my pull is all messed up with ugly dimples but that was from a fender foller.

^^^What he said^^^

I wasn't all stoked in doin it that way, cause I just thought that it'd come out all dimply or wavy, and I thought a roller would be a cleaner method :shrug:

I think a pull with a roller would be cleaner if you cut the lip but if its already rolled its bound to have dimples.

Really, well sh!t, I'm already rolled

I have a feeling me and a sledge hammer aren't gonna do a good job

[QUOTE=Brokey33;293858]Really, well sh!t, I'm already rolled

I have a feeling me and a sledge hammer aren't gonna do a good job[/QUOTE]


LOL, i tried hammering my dimples away but i dont wanna mess it up anymore

just buy one. its more convinient. 
 
I know [URL="http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/news.php"]power by max [/URL]sells them for cheap.
 
as for the dimples. are you guys talking about on the side of the fender? 
You can try to take that out with a pop-a-dent thats how I pop'd them out of a friends 240 a while bback.

the dimples come from the spot welds. i dont think its that easy to just pop them out.

Id buy one if I were to be doin up a bunch of cars, but I don't think that's gonna be my case. I plan on keeping this Q for a few years at least. 

As for them spot weld dimples, that ain't gonna come out it a dent remover. But wouldn't those happen with a hammer pull too??? Pounding on it enough would probably show through

i don't have any spot weld marks on the outside, but the area of the fender near the gas door is slightly misshapen. i think it's cause i pulled it a little bit too much. let's see if i have any photos -- i don't think i have any good ones

[img]http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs238.snc1/8523_806280615081_6028305_45419396_5629557_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs218.snc1/8523_806280669971_6028305_45419399_7096236_n.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.kingoffitment.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/IMG_0591.JPG[/img]

don't mind the dimples above the bumper -- it's cause someone scraped against my car in a parking lot or something, not because of the roll.

also, sorry about the quality of the pics -- i'm down to meet up if you guys would like to see how my fenders are rolled

Come to my pad and do my quarters please :pat:

Yeah yours look straight, from the pics, I never would've guessed they were pulled

ahh I see what you guys are sayin.

[QUOTE=Brokey33;293871]Come to my pad and do my quarters please :pat:

Yeah yours look straight, from the pics, I never would've guessed they were pulled[/QUOTE]

it's really easy -- head up the quarter panel until it's hot, but not glowing, grab a 5lb sledge from sears or wherever, and put a terry towel on where you're going to hit. then hit it. hahaha. every hit doesn't move the metal very much (it's much thicker on these quarters than a 240, where i first rolled fenders), so just take your time moving around the arch. keep some touch up paint ready (go to the nissan dealer -- infiniti dealer will charge you an arm and a leg and it's the same paint)

i'm out of town starting tomorrow for the rest of the week, but if you wanted to meet up sometime after that i'm down. holler!

[QUOTE=cheez80;293874]it's much thicker on these quarters than a 240, where i first rolled fenders[/QUOTE]
Yeah my hatch was only one sheet of metal, but my vert was 2, just like our Q's are
We talking about a roll or pull???

HAMMER TIME!
 
lol
 
that would be cool if they made over fenders for the rears on the Q.

I don't wanna make it sll super wide, just enough to get the new wheels to fit. But I got like 1.5"-2" of poke to make fit

[QUOTE=Brokey33;294164]I don't wanna make it sll super wide, just enough to get the new wheels to fit. But I got like 1.5"-2" of poke to make fit[/QUOTE]

camberrrrrrrrr :)

My PBM arms are almost maxed at neg, I might be able to sqeeze 1 or 2 degree's more, but that's it. Not enough :sad:
Gotta suck it in to make this fit
[IMG]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_yTr40MAMZU8/S0bOkEHXCbI/AAAAAAAAAHw/-lS4MthQZHk/s640/IMG_0359.JPG?source=androidclient[/IMG]


Hey C, get at me when your back in town. I think I'm gonna pull with the hammer

[QUOTE=Brokey33;294176]My PBM arms are almost maxed at neg, I might be able to sqeeze 1 or 2 degree's more, but that's it. Not enough :sad:
Gotta suck it in to make this fit
[IMG]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_yTr40MAMZU8/S0bOkEHXCbI/AAAAAAAAAHw/-lS4MthQZHk/s640/IMG_0359.JPG?source=androidclient[/IMG]


Hey C, get at me when your back in town. I think I'm gonna pull with the hammer[/QUOTE]

i had my peak arms modded to allow for more camber. the limit used to be -6.5* or so, now i know i can go to -9*+ with safe thread engagement. i'll be back sunday, so give me a holler after then.

ya the parts shop MAX arms are made to have alot of thread engagement at -1* on a super low car for nice traction and tire wear while drifting

so the VIP style preference is do neg camber all crazy over pulling out the fender?

How do those camber arms look like? I have Battle Version camber arms and for the G/Z they can give up to about -4 deg of camber, but the way it works is that the links can be swapped for longer ones so I got -7.5 and can go up to -12...I can get even longer ones and prob be close to -20 LMAO. If yours are the same and if you wanna try these out lemme know, I can get the BV camber arms.

[IMG]http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1246577294_2_FT0_p1040838.jpg[/IMG]
this is the parts shop MAX s-chassis camber arm that we were refering to

Those are it right there. Thanks for the post Dan.

Hey pisto, how's the BV arms get you more neg camber if you make it longer. The only way I can see if the PBM arms could add more neg cam is if it was shortened. 

IDK about this, and I'm sure its not recommended, but Dan, you think if by removing the smaller locking nut, the one on the far left, it'd cause the heim joint to back out?? I imagine it wouldn't since it'd be locked in through the eye, and the threads would be locked in place with the adjusting threads and its locking nut?? Whatcha think??

Did a lil research, and Pisto, I believe your RCA goes on bottom right??
That would make sence why it'd have to be longer.
Ours go on top, mine is pictured there on the right
[IMG]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_yTr40MAMZU8/S0_OC6Ea2aI/AAAAAAAAANs/OqZCUooGKaY/s800/Links2.JPG?source=androidclient[/IMG]

That's why I need to go it shorter :sad:

[QUOTE=Brokey33;294701]
IDK about this, and I'm sure its not recommended, but Dan, you think if by removing the smaller locking nut, the one on the far left, it'd cause the heim joint to back out?? I imagine it wouldn't since it'd be locked in through the eye, and the threads would be locked in place with the adjusting threads and its locking nut?? Whatcha think??[/QUOTE]
I think one side is bolted to the knuckle and the other side is bolted to the subframe both do not turn so you should be good removing both lock nuts if need be. With the cars weight on it the adjuster is not going to want to move but vibration could spin it so loctite on the threads could take the place of the lock nuts

Hahaha yeah, good point. 
Will make sure to do that :biggthumpup:

[IMG]http://i49.tinypic.com/nvuphd.jpg[/IMG]

that's the part i shortened on my peak arms -- they had a larger collar there. anyway, apologies for the bad photoshop (and i did use photoshop, not paint). i'm drunk as shit right now hahaha

LOL it's all good man
But the PBM arms dont have threads all the way through the inner part of that tube, they're maybe half way. Something like this
[IMG]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_yTr40MAMZU8/S1Ne4OW4f5I/AAAAAAAAAPY/r7ev_NPSfm4/s800/PBM%20RUCA.JPG[/IMG]
 
 
 
Here you can see the inner part's smooth. You cant see any threads till the very end. 
Stole this from PBM site
[IMG]http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/e107_files/public/1209858923_2_FT0_p1030270.jpg[/IMG]
 
this highlights the only visable thread barely beginning
[IMG]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_yTr40MAMZU8/S1Ne4u6wX8I/AAAAAAAAAPc/c2Wkdfcdgmw/s800/PBM%20RUCAa.JPG[/IMG]

me and my friend are gonna make our own fender roller, if you still need one.

I'm gonna try out cheez80's method of
[QUOTE=cheez80;293825] sledge, terry towel, and a bernz-o-matic torch[/QUOTE]
hopefully that and more neg camber should be enough for the new set up =)

maybe a competent machine shop can rethread or extend threads on the inside for you? sounds crazy, but people told me i couldn't shorten my peak arms =P

[QUOTE=Tanuma Body;294581]
so the VIP style preference is do neg camber all crazy over pulling out the fender?[/QUOTE]
 
To answer this question, yes, to a point. Camber is one of the defining traits to VIP stance, so even if fender work is done, camber is included for looks.
 
On sedans there is only so much pulling you can do before it all looks like ass...

[QUOTE=SanDiegoG35;294915]me and my friend are gonna make our own fender roller, if you still need one.[/QUOTE]
why would you do that they are not that expensive. and even less to rent.
[QUOTE=Brokey33;294902]LOL it's all good man
But the PBM arms dont have threads all the way through the inner part of that tube, they're maybe half way.[/QUOTE]
its half way because thats the length of the adjuster.  The inside of the adjuster on the other hand is threaded all the way and the threads on the ball joint are really long.
Point is you can make it shorter without any modification.

Will try that. Just crank down the adjuster till it locks into the sleeve. And get the ball joint to my desired length. And slop lock-tite over all of it, right??

right
 
a little goes a long way so i would not say slop it on
 
the red loctite is permanent and the blue type is removable