Will an Eastwood fender roll/pull allow for negative offsets?

Just wondering if rolling the fender lips flat and then continuing to add tension to get a pull would allow for a negative offset front wheel?
My paint is in really good shape and I don't want to go to the effort of having a body shop have at my fenders to get wheels to fit (at least not anytime soon).
Looking on rimtuck is very confusing. -6 is just cut and pulled (Eastwood or bodyshop isn't specified). But +12 front wheel offset is a body shop pull etc..
Oh ya, I have a '00 LS400.

[QUOTE=Schnitz;295066]Just wondering if rolling the fender lips flat and then continuing to add tension to get a pull would allow for a negative offset front wheel?
My paint is in really good shape and I don't want to go to the effort of having a body shop have at my fenders to get wheels to fit (at least not anytime soon).
Looking on rimtuck is very confusing. -6 is just cut and pulled (Eastwood or bodyshop isn't specified). But +12 front wheel offset is a body shop pull etc..[/QUOTE]
 
 
Not sure about the question, but you can only pull the fender so far before you start to deform it.  Flat fenders are especially difficult due to the flat surface.  The tricky part is when you get to the part where the fender bolts to the bumper since you cannot pull that part.  If you over pull, you get a "bubble" effect on the fender since you cannot pull where the fender and bumper bolt together.

[QUOTE=actolex;295070]Not sure about the question, but you can only pull the fender so far before you start to deform it. ....[/QUOTE]
 
That's pretty much what I need to know. If I roll/pull with an Eastwood to the point just before it deforms what kind of offset can I fit? I guess only those with specific LS experience can really answer my question.
 
Thanks for helping me clarify.

On an '01-'06 LS, no the fender roller will not pull it enough to fit a negative offset rim. At least without pulling the fender and making it look weird like mentioned above about not being able to pull the bumper. I rolled my fenders with a slight pull and it doesn't look like it will even get close to 0 offset. I haven't put the rims back on yet to measure fitment and maybe some camber. Still waiting on tires, so not for sure about fitment. I didn't want to pull too much and make it look weird where the top of the fender is out and sinks in above where the fender/bumper joins.

Also, negative offset depends on rim size. So yes, if you have like a 7 inch wide rim, then you might be able to get negative offset rims to fit. So just saying negative offset doesn't really help since it's relevant to rim with.

I'm thinking 19x10"/11".

My estimate is +22 offset on a 10 in the rear before you start to peel paint and ripple the fender...before you roll, you may want to think about cutting the tabs before you pull...the tabs distort the metal more than anything...

[QUOTE=Schnitz;295094]I'm thinking 19x10"/11".[/QUOTE]
afaik on the front of our chassis it wont fit negative offsets with those widths without a widebody.  or pull to the limits of the fender then camber in 4-8+ degrees.

-offset 10s or low offset 11s are what we can run in the REAR of the car, the front has a good bit less room.

You can do it but I wouldnt recomend it.  It will look real bad in person but alright in pics.  My shop is as far from you as it is for me and the crew.  They will hook it up if you go in there with a Liberty shirt or the Liberty Euro plate on your dash.  Look out for Rob "PhillyGS" progress to get an idea of what they can do with your ride

I guess I'll stick with my 9"+30 & 10" +35 this year and add some spacers in the meantime.
PD - do the previous gens have more space in the fenders or is it just the smaller brakes?

[QUOTE=Schnitz;295127]I guess I'll stick with my 9"+30 & 10" +35 this year and add some spacers in the meantime.
PD - do the previous gens have more space in the fenders or is it just the smaller brakes?[/QUOTE]
the ucf2x chassis has more room in the back fenders, you've seen pictures of my car right?  its 9j +30 front and 10.5j +12 rears.  brakes in the back are actually pretty much the same from '89-00 iirc.

rear of my car is cambered slightly, (~-2.8-.3*), flat fender lip, and stretched tires (245/35-20) and doest rub at all.  i could probably throw in a 3mm and MAYBE a 5mm spacer in there as it is without increasing camber and be more flush.

Ya, of course I've seen your car. The reason I ask is because the older gens seem to be able to fit lower offsets with minimal effort.
 
Oh ya, glad to see you posting here on the dark side. ;)

DUDE! I am running 9.5 in the front with single digit + offset and did not even have to pull the front at all! now the rear is a different story

How the hell did you pull that off? :)

one word! Airride!

Dude, you gotta explain how that helps. I'm truly puzzled.

camber! 
When I air my car all the up I am Mexi-Flush
[IMG]http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m108/sickmerkur/ORDEN%20TEST%20FIT/IMG00042-20091210-1424.jpg[/IMG]
But when I put it down I am HellaFlush
[IMG]http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m108/sickmerkur/ORDEN%20TEST%20FIT/DSCN0765.jpg[/IMG]
I looks like a girl with a nice wide ass! Oh and Btw Big Steve was running 10s in the front and 11's in the back!

Yeah plus one on the air, for some reason when I was on coils I was only able to squeeze a 19x9 +25  in the front , with air my current set up is 19x9 - 3 , 215/35 tire some camber , and a nice pull. I pulled my front with yellow pages , using my air to force the fender down , came out pretty clean . saved me some money also :biggthumpup:

Ahaaaa, now I get it. Thanks.
Oh ya, did I mention - nice stance!

thank ya! I love the stance! I come out of work and purposely walk around the building so I can walk up on the rear of my car and see those tyres poking out the bottom of the car. The only problem I have had with my airride was when it got down to the teens here and froze the valve cause I never drained the water out of the tank. Quick fix for that was to take the tank out and put it in my house and let it get to room temp. Then I drained the water out and put in some air line antifreeze I got from the local T/A. Ever since then no problems!
[IMG]http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m108/sickmerkur/ORDEN%20TEST%20FIT/DSCN0771.jpg[/IMG]

trying to drive low on coils w/aggressive wheels= potential to completely destroy your fenders. (and maybe a tire)

So are you guys rolling or shaving your fenders? Is it true that even though you cut the tabs on the fenders it will still give an indention in the fender at those points?

Here's little trick.

Slip on spacers for fender rolling to give you more leverage.

Had to use it on James' car.

worked pretty well .

man i gotta do my fronts soon.. dont wanna f*ck up my paint or put a dimple in it...

[QUOTE=GS300ToM;295541]man i gotta do my fronts soon.. dont wanna f*ck up my paint or put a dimple in it...[/QUOTE]


Nice and slow is the name of the game.  make sure you heat properly and be careful at the upper most part of the fender.

I'm concerned as well on rolling my y33's fenders, I didn't put much thought in to it when I use to roll the fenders on my s13's, I used metal pipes back then, but want to do a nice/ clean roll on my Q, also since the rear metal is so much thicker than an S chassis

[QUOTE=PureDrifter;295389]trying to drive low on coils w/aggressive wheels= potential to completely destroy your fenders. (and maybe a tire)[/QUOTE]

Thats the cost you gotta pay to play son :thelaw:

[QUOTE=Benji;295518]So are you guys rolling or shaving your fenders? Is it true that even though you cut the tabs on the fenders it will still give an indention in the fender at those points?[/QUOTE]

I was originally going to shave my fenders, but then decided to roll it after talking to my body shop guy. The rear consist of two layers of metal. If you shave it, the edge of where the two metal layers join will be closer to the edge. This makes the rear fender weaker and potential for the two layers to split apart. I wanted to be safe and just rolled my fenders. One of my MR2's fenders is shaved and no problems at all.

If you cut the tabs, there will be an indention still. You have to shave the rest of the fender down to the same level of the cut tab and then roll to avoid the indention.

[QUOTE=ni5mo240;295627]I'm concerned as well on rolling my y33's fenders, I didn't put much thought in to it when I use to roll the fenders on my s13's, I used metal pipes back then, but want to do a nice/ clean roll on my Q, also since the rear metal is so much thicker than an S chassis[/QUOTE]

Rubber malet and a heat gun and you'll be set. Ya might have a sore arm the next day, but you'll be able to roll hella flush. I rolled em flat that way, and now sittin perfect in my opinion

[QUOTE=urmyhero4now;295640]Thats the cost you gotta pay to play son :thelaw:[/QUOTE]
true, its less of a cost thing and more of a reliability thing, my car is still my daily :p

Keep in mind..

How many fender roller manufactures do you know of? they all take in same form of shape, so you are pretty much stuck with 1 design.

Off my head..

Eastwood
Stance
Powered by Max

are the only fender roller manufactures that I know of, and Eastwood and Stance having same product design. Powered by Max has difference design then the other two. their design allows you to flip the fender roller's main arm around 180 degrees so that you won't have to disconnect any suspension arms for you to roll fenders on already lowered cars, in which case, most cars you roll fenders on are already lowered. 

I personally own the Powered by Max fender roller and I've rolled/pulled/flared about 20 cars with that roller and still holding strong. and well, this fender roller is also cheaper then other brands.

This is the one I used. I got it off Amazon for 199. Worked like a glove
[IMG]http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m108/sickmerkur/ORDEN%20TEST%20FIT/fenderroller.jpg[/IMG]

powered by max has a gen 2 fender roller that looks like it'll clear BBK. My Eastwood one doesn't clear by breaks so I could only roll the top and front of the fender. Not to mention it's cheaper. oh well, guess I'll just have to use a spacer with the fender roller.

Powered by Max Gen 2 roller[I have that one] does not clear BBK.

Use 10mm spacers and it'll clear no problem.

or undo the top caliper bolt and loosen the bottom cliper bolt and have the caliper sitting down so you don't hit it.

Won't clear with 10mm spacer, already tried. Gonna go 25mm spacer.

well, you didn't say what BBK you got :p