Y33; Engine Service Soon
I DO MY OWN BASIC TUNE UP! BRAKE,RAIDTOR,BELTS,OIL,ETC. HOW DO I GET THE (ENGINE SERVICE SOON) TO SHUT OFF??? WHATS THE RESET FOR THE Y33? I TRIED THE BATTERY CABLES NEGETIVE CONNECTION OFF FOR 5 MIN AND IT STILL SHOWS UP? ANY SUGGESTION???:pat:
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I DO MY OWN BASIC TUNE UP! BRAKE,RAIDTOR,BELTS,OIL,ETC. HOW DO I GET THE (ENGINE SERVICE SOON) TO SHUT OFF??? WHATS THE RESET FOR THE Y33? I TRIED THE BATTERY CABLES NEGETIVE CONNECTION OFF FOR 5 MIN AND IT STILL SHOWS UP? ANY SUGGESTION???:pat:
if it turns off and then comes back on, then you have something that keeps triggering it... does your y33 misfire like the rest of them?
you can have a mechanic plug it in and find the code for whatever is causing the CEL to go off.
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if it turns off and then comes back on, then you have something that keeps triggering it... does your y33 misfire like the rest of them?
you can have a mechanic plug it in and find the code for whatever is causing the CEL to go off.
G33kY97;304624 wrote:if it turns off and then comes back on, then you have something that keeps triggering it... does your y33 misfire like the rest of them?
you can have a mechanic plug it in and find the code for whatever is causing the CEL to go off.
What do you mean misfire,(engine)? My Y33 runs smooth and quite. CEL? Is that the engine check light. Yeah it does come on and off.:shrug:
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[QUOTE=G33kY97;304624]if it turns off and then comes back on, then you have something that keeps triggering it... does your y33 misfire like the rest of them?
you can have a mechanic plug it in and find the code for whatever is causing the CEL to go off.[/QUOTE]
What do you mean misfire,(engine)? My Y33 runs smooth and quite. CEL? Is that the engine check light. Yeah it does come on and off.:shrug:
CEL is check engine light. Not engine check light. Haha. But to answer your question.... I thinknu should do both negative and positive. See if that works. If not, something may still be wrong.
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CEL is check engine light. Not engine check light. Haha. But to answer your question.... I thinknu should do both negative and positive. See if that works. If not, something may still be wrong.
Could be a couple things if the car is running fine then could be KS, Ks Harness or O2.
Have a mechanic or Autozone run an OBDII scan and pull the code. takes like 10 minutes.
Other option is disconnect your battery for about an hour and the light will turn off but if it comes back on there is a problem. Usually about 20 key cycles (on and offs) will reset the ecu if there is no problems.
Easiest way is to just get the scan done.
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Could be a couple things if the car is running fine then could be KS, Ks Harness or O2.
Have a mechanic or Autozone run an OBDII scan and pull the code. takes like 10 minutes.
Other option is disconnect your battery for about an hour and the light will turn off but if it comes back on there is a problem. Usually about 20 key cycles (on and offs) will reset the ecu if there is no problems.
Easiest way is to just get the scan done.
mine came on and i dis. the pos. terminal and it went off for about three weeks, then came back on. this time i dis. it and cleaned the mas air sensor, and will be changing plugs to see if it keeps the light off.
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mine came on and i dis. the pos. terminal and it went off for about three weeks, then came back on. this time i dis. it and cleaned the mas air sensor, and will be changing plugs to see if it keeps the light off.
autozone free 99 for obd scan and they can reset it for you also.
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autozone free 99 for obd scan and they can reset it for you also.
If a CEL is on, resetin it isn't gonna fix the problem. Its still gonna return if ya never fixed the situation that caused it. First find the problem. Fix it. Then try resetin it. If it doesn't come on, good job. If it does, you either didn't fix it, or ya did somethin wrong.
If ya don't care to fix the problem, and ya just want the light off, pull out the bulb behind the cluster :shrug:
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If a CEL is on, resetin it isn't gonna fix the problem. Its still gonna return if ya never fixed the situation that caused it. First find the problem. Fix it. Then try resetin it. If it doesn't come on, good job. If it does, you either didn't fix it, or ya did somethin wrong.
If ya don't care to fix the problem, and ya just want the light off, pull out the bulb behind the cluster :shrug:
changed my plugs and cleaned everything. now i'm getting a #5 misfire according to code. if its not one thing its another
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changed my plugs and cleaned everything. now i'm getting a #5 misfire according to code. if its not one thing its another
Swap your coils with a known good one.
Maybe like 3/5
Then if 3's missin and 5's koo, you know what to replace
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Swap your coils with a known good one.
Maybe like 3/5
Then if 3's missin and 5's koo, you know what to replace
shit my y33 runs smooth as silk...moble one only. and always make sure ur gas cap clicks.mis firing? never that
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shit my y33 runs smooth as silk...moble one only. and always make sure ur gas cap clicks.mis firing? never that
First things first. Get the codes from computer by using an OBDII scanner. Let me know what the codes are and I can help. After you fix the problem(s), then you have it reset. After the reset drive at least 30-50 miles and if CEL does not come back then you fixed it. If not, you still have a problem. Keep us updated.
Removing the battery terminals wont do much since the code(s) are stored in the computer. And just a word of advice, dont be like my dumbass friend who keeps resetting his CEL thinking it will fix itself. Basically, I pulled a code stating "Catalytic efficiency below threshold" and we recommended to replace one or two of the oxygen sensors before replacing the cat. Note: A catalytic converter is pretty expensive. And when you replace the cat anyways, you are going to replace the oxygen sensors so might as well try that first since its the least expensive. 80% of the time it has fixed the problem. Although my friend was stupid and ended up spending over $1,500 in the long run since he didnt wanna spend. Talk about a dumbass.
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First things first. Get the codes from computer by using an OBDII scanner. Let me know what the codes are and I can help. After you fix the problem(s), then you have it reset. After the reset drive at least 30-50 miles and if CEL does not come back then you fixed it. If not, you still have a problem. Keep us updated.
Removing the battery terminals wont do much since the code(s) are stored in the computer. And just a word of advice, dont be like my dumbass friend who keeps resetting his CEL thinking it will fix itself. Basically, I pulled a code stating "Catalytic efficiency below threshold" and we recommended to replace one or two of the oxygen sensors before replacing the cat. Note: A catalytic converter is pretty expensive. And when you replace the cat anyways, you are going to replace the oxygen sensors so might as well try that first since its the least expensive. 80% of the time it has fixed the problem. Although my friend was stupid and ended up spending over $1,500 in the long run since he didnt wanna spend. Talk about a dumbass.
most of the time on an obd11 car if the light is on then there is a problem, resetting it isn't gonna fix it, you need a scanner to pull codes then go from there
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most of the time on an obd11 car if the light is on then there is a problem, resetting it isn't gonna fix it, you need a scanner to pull codes then go from there
i replaced the spark plug of the misfire cylinder and moved the coil to #1, then reset everything. how long until the light should come back on if something is still wrong?
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i replaced the spark plug of the misfire cylinder and moved the coil to #1, then reset everything. how long until the light should come back on if something is still wrong?
mdenoga;329900 wrote:After the reset drive at least 30-50 miles and if CEL does not come back then you fixed it. If not, you still have a problem. Keep us updated.
What were your specific codes "P0147, etc, etc.?" Also, which cylinder was misfiring?
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[QUOTE=mdenoga;329900]After the reset drive at least 30-50 miles and if CEL does not come back then you fixed it. If not, you still have a problem. Keep us updated.
[/QUOTE]
What were your specific codes "P0147, etc, etc.?" Also, which cylinder was misfiring?
honestly don't remember code numbers. it was cylinder 5. last reading said misfire on 5 and both knocks. the original misfire code didn't say anything about the knocks.
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honestly don't remember code numbers. it was cylinder 5. last reading said misfire on 5 and both knocks. the original misfire code didn't say anything about the knocks.
This thread cracks me up. How can something so easy, be so hard? Go to your buddies shop, or if you don't have that option, go to Pep Boys, get it scanned, write down the code. Hell, they'll tell you what the code means right there anyhow, and it's free.
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This thread cracks me up. How can something so easy, be so hard? Go to your buddies shop, or if you don't have that option, go to Pep Boys, get it scanned, write down the code. Hell, they'll tell you what the code means right there anyhow, and it's free.
i went and got a scan, got the code, found out what it was, just didn't write the numbers down.
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i went and got a scan, got the code, found out what it was, just didn't write the numbers down.
three weeks have now passed and no cel. even if the misfire is resolved, shouldn't it throw the knock sensor code back up?
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three weeks have now passed and no cel. even if the misfire is resolved, shouldn't it throw the knock sensor code back up?
If, now its a big if, but if you did have that misfire before, it could've triggered the knock sensors to go off. Now IF you did correct the problem, no more misfire, then chances may also be that you're no longer goin to have knock. Maybe.
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If, now its a big if, but if you did have that misfire before, it could've triggered the knock sensors to go off. Now IF you did correct the problem, no more misfire, then chances may also be that you're no longer goin to have knock. Maybe.
i like your ifs and maybes. hopefully you're right
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i like your ifs and maybes. hopefully you're right
cursed myself. the light came on today. i'll get a reading on it and post an update
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cursed myself. the light came on today. i'll get a reading on it and post an update
knock sensors popped up (figured they would) but this time no misfire. instead, its the egr
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knock sensors popped up (figured they would) but this time no misfire. instead, its the egr
fyi to those who haven't changed knock sensors. they suck. i went the non-remove the plenum route, and unless you have skinny arms, i don't suggest it. my arms/wrist/hands are scraped up from going this way. on the positive side, you don't have to remove the plenum and all the hoses and harness. the whole process (my first time to do it) took about 3.5 hours. but it still beats paying almost a grand to get infiniti to do it for you.
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fyi to those who haven't changed knock sensors. they suck. i went the non-remove the plenum route, and unless you have skinny arms, i don't suggest it. my arms/wrist/hands are scraped up from going this way. on the positive side, you don't have to remove the plenum and all the hoses and harness. the whole process (my first time to do it) took about 3.5 hours. but it still beats paying almost a grand to get infiniti to do it for you.
LOL my arms didnt fit in there either
Thats what my lday was for hahaha :smiley-rofl:
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LOL my arms didnt fit in there either
Thats what my lday was for hahaha :smiley-rofl:
...mine just came on...BOTH O2 sensors....FTL...
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...mine just came on...BOTH O2 sensors....FTL...
the 02's aren't too bad. way easier than the knocks
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the 02's aren't too bad. way easier than the knocks
true that, I had to change the bank 1 knock sensor on my rb25...luckily i have the greddy intake mani so it made it a million times easier...
but what happened was mckinney wired my knock sensor wrong so i changed it for no reason...and i paid them 350 to do the wiring...or was it 450...???dunno, but for that kinda paper there should have been nothing wrong...
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true that, I had to change the bank 1 knock sensor on my rb25...luckily i have the greddy intake mani so it made it a million times easier...
but what happened was mckinney wired my knock sensor wrong so i changed it for no reason...and i paid them 350 to do the wiring...or was it 450...???dunno, but for that kinda paper there should have been nothing wrong...
update: sensors went on with minor snags. but now i've got an air bubble somewhere in the coolant system so my car wants to start trying to overhead if its sitting idle, or in stop/go traffic.
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update: sensors went on with minor snags. but now i've got an air bubble somewhere in the coolant system so my car wants to start trying to overhead if its sitting idle, or in stop/go traffic.
Sounds more like a fan isn't working if you're only overheating at idle. You should probably have someone check it out instead of all this shotgun diagnosis.
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Sounds more like a fan isn't working if you're only overheating at idle. You should probably have someone check it out instead of all this shotgun diagnosis.
fan is spinning constantly when running. when i open the cap level is up. when i turn on the heater, the level goes down, but air bubbles come up.
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fan is spinning constantly when running. when i open the cap level is up. when i turn on the heater, the level goes down, but air bubbles come up.