Removing preload on coilovers...
What are the negatives of doing so? I would like to run a little lower and this is the only way I can drop the car more.
Thanks,
Dom.
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What are the negatives of doing so? I would like to run a little lower and this is the only way I can drop the car more.
Thanks,
Dom.
that's called spring droop, if i'm not mistaken -- as you start to remove preload, you start to get less travel, which is why people recommend lowering your car with the lower spring perch (if you have double tap coilovers)
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that's called spring droop, if i'm not mistaken -- as you start to remove preload, you start to get less travel, which is why people recommend lowering your car with the lower spring perch (if you have double tap coilovers)
um..a few things
The obvious lack of preload which is a needed addition for a properly working suspension
loss of travel as said, ie bumpstops and blown shocks
but the main problem, which i have actually SEEN happen, is the spring comming loose on a large bump, dip, undulation, where your shock is sent to the TOP of its travel, with no preload the spring cocking sideways and breaking a shock as it comes down.
i mean, its your car, so have fun
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um..a few things
The obvious lack of preload which is a needed addition for a properly working suspension
loss of travel as said, ie bumpstops and blown shocks
but the main problem, which i have actually SEEN happen, is the spring comming loose on a large bump, dip, undulation, where your shock is sent to the TOP of its travel, with no preload the spring cocking sideways and breaking a shock as it comes down.
i mean, its your car, so have fun
FLSImages;343439 wrote:um..a few things
The obvious lack of preload which is a needed addition for a properly working suspension
loss of travel as said, ie bumpstops and blown shocks
but the main problem, which i have actually SEEN happen, is the spring comming loose on a large bump, dip, undulation, where your shock is sent to the TOP of its travel, with no preload the spring cocking sideways and breaking a shock as it comes down.
i mean, its your car, so have fun
That makes sense, i'd like to see that happen LOL on someone else's ride though
That car must've jumped pretty high to let that happen, sucks.
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[QUOTE=FLSImages;343439]um..a few things
The obvious lack of preload which is a needed addition for a properly working suspension
loss of travel as said, ie bumpstops and blown shocks
but the main problem, which i have actually SEEN happen, is the spring comming loose on a large bump, dip, undulation, where your shock is sent to the TOP of its travel, with no preload the spring cocking sideways and breaking a shock as it comes down.
i mean, its your car, so have fun[/QUOTE]
That makes sense, i'd like to see that happen LOL on someone else's ride though
That car must've jumped pretty high to let that happen, sucks.
it didnt jump. it was going over Rainbow Bridge in tokyo. there are dips in between the metal pavement joiners, and after about 6 or 7 if your suspension isnt set up right you start maxing out rebound travel, near the end of the bridge it caught up, and a vibratino hit just right, and bam. luckilly someone had some blown shocks in the trunk and we swapped it out (silvia) but it still is dangerous
this is why alot of single taps (think ohlins and koni) have helper springs. so you can adjust preload and still retain spring tension (there are other small effects, mainly with low speed shock function, but whatever)
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it didnt jump. it was going over Rainbow Bridge in tokyo. there are dips in between the metal pavement joiners, and after about 6 or 7 if your suspension isnt set up right you start maxing out rebound travel, near the end of the bridge it caught up, and a vibratino hit just right, and bam. luckilly someone had some blown shocks in the trunk and we swapped it out (silvia) but it still is dangerous
this is why alot of single taps (think ohlins and koni) have helper springs. so you can adjust preload and still retain spring tension (there are other small effects, mainly with low speed shock function, but whatever)
i always run the lower perch snug, but in my research i found that a lot of race setups run droop for cornering. for example: if your lower perch is snug or preloaded and your coilovers are aggressive the inside tire may lift under hard corners because of a lack of droop. some were even recominding close to 50/50 bump/droop, meaning half travel. i'd imagine they run helper springs but it wasn't mentioned.
i think as long as your spring rate is aggressive enough to keep you off the bumpstops, lowering the bottom perch isn't as bad as it's always been made out to be. if you drop it enough that the spring can come loose, runs helpers for safety reasons.
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i always run the lower perch snug, but in my research i found that a lot of race setups run droop for cornering. for example: if your lower perch is snug or preloaded and your coilovers are aggressive the inside tire may lift under hard corners because of a lack of droop. some were even recominding close to 50/50 bump/droop, meaning half travel. i'd imagine they run helper springs but it wasn't mentioned.
i think as long as your spring rate is aggressive enough to keep you off the bumpstops, lowering the bottom perch isn't as bad as it's always been made out to be. if you drop it enough that the spring can come loose, runs helpers for safety reasons.
but also, you have to take into account their stiffer rebound settings. their shocks dont pogo like alot of setups do. in certain cases it is ok. as by time they have unloaded then loaded the suspension alot of times the shock hasnt even traveled far enough to be a hazard.
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but also, you have to take into account their stiffer rebound settings. their shocks dont pogo like alot of setups do. in certain cases it is ok. as by time they have unloaded then loaded the suspension alot of times the shock hasnt even traveled far enough to be a hazard.