Spacers recommendations?

I did a search for it and most threads were pretty old.  I wanted to open up the debate on spacers and if there was a brand that most of you recommend?

I've been looking at my car as of late, and yea, stance is kinda weak atm.  I am not trying to break any records on "how flush" I am for I still prefer the "tucked" look afterall.  I do want to bring my wheels out tho, cause they are way to sunken in. :pat:

I am looking for either a 15mm or 20mm to use temporarily until I can figure out my wheel situation.

Thanks in advance!

I heard autofashion has some you could get. The ones w/ the studs already attached! :biggthumpup: Hit Freddie up!

Of the ones I know (Project Kics, Ichiba, and H&R).

I've used H&R personally. Studs were not built in but they were great. Never had problems. 

Although if possible for some people, I'd recommend the Project Kics spacers with built in studs. Just gotta make sure your wheels have pockets for those extra studs. They do cost more, but they will save you on the cost of installing studs individually (unles you have a hookup.

Ichiba V1's, I'd pass on. Heard too many stories of broken studs (not built in). The V2's I've seen several people using and haven't heard of any horror stories.  If you want to save some money, Ichiba is cheaper than Project Kics.

I think the Projects Kics may weigh less as well.

i say h&r for off the shelf. custom from [URL]http://www.wheeladapter.com/[/URL] or [URL]http://www.motorsport-tech.com/[/URL]. i saw powered by max have an interesting stackable setup and i wouldn't be too worried about quality from them.

[URL]http://www.vipstylecars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=338802#post338802[/URL]
 
^ that was debate number 1
 
H&R is a name that comes up over and over again .. i know if i had to buy a set it would be H/R since its you life at risk and that is pricelss ..=)

I have never heard of a failure from a H&R spacer.  My understanding is they are one of, if not the, best.

I've ran Eibach, Kics and custom ones. The custom were probably the best, made by one of the NHRA suppliers, so if they can handle an 8000 HP Top Fuel car, they can handle a street car. However, I can't find his contact info any more. I personally liked the Kics from AutoFashion, but like Donpisto said make sure your wheels have the pockets in between the bolt holes, or do what I did: just drill holes deep enough to make them work! Yes, drilling holes in my Works took a leap of faith, but it worked just fine.  Oddly, I only had to drill the fronts cause the rears did have the pockets.

got ichiba on mines, h&r on my dads ride. 

cant have him having any issues so i went with better ones.

i can handle problems with my own car, i know sounds cheap huh?

FLS, Do you have a pic of the 'pockets'?

You really can't go wrong w/ H&R, they're one of my favorite suspension co's, just too bad they don't make jack for most of our cars. 

This is what the "pockets" look like, the space in between bolt holes, generally they're deep enough for your stock studs to fit if you run 15mm or smaller spacers. I think most 20mm+ spacers are thick enough you don't have to worry about it.

[img]http://myswag.org/gallery/d/4387-1/Alloy+Damage+01.JPG[/img]

I've used factory porsche, H&R, some ebay ones and another brand that I don't remember the name. H&R are the best and most expensive. The ebay ones were good as they are hub centric. Do some of you buy spacers that are lug centric? That might be the problem right there. You are relying on the lugs to take all the load. Of all the spacers I have used, I  wouldn't ever consider a set that wasn't hub centric. I didn't even think about the possibility of the studs breaking, rather that it could cause inbalance of the wheels. Years back, I had a friend who grinded out a set of spacers so tha they would fit on his car. He took them off several hours later as you can clearly see his car going up and down while on the freeway since he didn't grind the bolt holes them evenly. If you do end up getting lug centric spacers, which IMO is a bad idea, check and make sure the studs are a high grade no less than a 10.9 or even better 12.9.

ebay
all iveever used.


hubcentric isnt needed, seriously

[QUOTE=FLSImages;344480]ebay
all iveever used.


hubcentric isnt needed, seriously[/QUOTE]

Maybe not, but never need to worry about a shattered stud if they are hub centric.

:shrug:
whatever you say
ive been using random off brand spacers for over half a decade, and never had problems. still using a pair of 20mms to this day that i bought 3 years ago.

not to mention like the entirety of japan doesnt use them either. but its cool

The cost of hub centric spacers aren't that much so it's worth the peace of mind, especially with the abuse many members here put on their suspension, ie slammed and lots of camber. Even worse on the east coast where the roads are torn up due to the wider range in weather compared to me on the west coast where it snows 3x a year, if that.

don ttlak to me about camber...and abuse.
trust me, ive vetted my stuff, everyone here that is OG knows it.
my damn miata has more camber htan most people on here....not to mention my van did too

[QUOTE=F.L.S.;344395]I've ran Eibach, Kics and custom ones. The custom were probably the best, made by one of the NHRA suppliers, so if they can handle an 8000 HP Top Fuel car, they can handle a street car. However, I can't find his contact info any more. I personally liked the Kics from AutoFashion, but like Donpisto said make sure your wheels have the pockets in between the bolt holes, or do what I did: just drill holes deep enough to make them work! Yes, drilling holes in my Works took a leap of faith, but it worked just fine.  Oddly, I only had to drill the fronts cause the rears did have the pockets.[/QUOTE]
i just grind my studs flat
had to do it on my stepwgn

Personally, I purchased Motosport Technology adaptors for my Miata, to open up the option of using 4x114.3 wheels.

They are custom made, 19mm, hubcentric to my car, with 12x1.5 studs in them. Only issue I have is that the stock studs and my hardware stick out, but like Grant said, that's not a big deal, it can be ground down.

They were also extremely affordable - $160 for the set.

john, ebay.  i ran 25mm spacers for a year no problems.  i still have em i think if you wanan check the quality..but theyre cheap and reliable.

[QUOTE=FLSImages;344480]ebay
all iveever used.


hubcentric isnt needed, seriously[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=BAHC;344603]john, ebay.  i ran 25mm spacers for a year no problems.  i still have em i think if you wanan check the quality..but theyre cheap and reliable.[/QUOTE]

Agreed!

I've bought 50mm spacers on ebay and used them for about 2years worked fine. Even went through the biggest blizzard on the east coast since the 1920's.  Now i bought a 31mm 5x120 adapter on ebay running for about 6months now and still strong.

I've have two sets of 25mm Ichiba V2 spacers for about 6 months and they're still holding strong. I had to replace two of the nuts and stock lexus bolts because some r*tard decided it was cool to use 1000lbs of torq when mounting them. I had to strip them off, get two new factory bolts, and wait a week for spacer nuts from Ichiba. I guess that's a good point about Ichiba, they have extra bolts, nuts, and parts in case something happens to the hardware like mine.

Wow, so either it stripped the stud and nut, or the stud stretched and broke off. Oh, and I do have a torque wrench that is normally used on commercial trucks and will do up to  1500ft-lbs. It's just over 6 ft long assembled and weighs about 55lbs. I normally use it to remove cv nuts as I don't even need to put much leverage on the wrench, the weight of it rotates if you let go.

note if you buy 20mm spacers, you can just get compact nuts
i you use 25mm you can use your normal random every day 19mm nut (so you dont need a thinwall socket)
most lugnuts are 24mm in height

I'm running H&R "dra series" the ones that come with bolts. Supposedly the safest application as they essentially become one wih your car and are wheel and hub centric/as opposed to other applications that you just "shis-kabob" with a longer studd or lugg nut throughboth the wheel and spacer...makes sense to me. I know of a company rotiform that can make any size custom (might be better option rather than a run of the mill 10, 15, 20, 25mm)

sandwich spacers are normally safe 10mm and under. anything else i dont trust event iwth extended studs

For the GS, I'd use 5mm spacers max if you don't use bolt on spacers. The stock studs aren't long and it's not safe to use more than 5mm, you don't grab enough threads. 
 
 
Go with Kics, H&R or Ebay hub centric. I used Ebay ones on my GS that were 25mm, and the stock studs were flush with the spacer, no need for holes in your wheels. Anything less than 25mm though, you'll need to either have the holes, or get new studs along with spacers (like H&R 15mm comes with studs) so that way you won't have to worry about your wheel unthreading and falling off on the highway.

disagree hubcentric. but whatever.
your lugs do the same damn thing....center the wheel

I had 4/5 studs break off when I didn't use a hubcentric 5mm spacer. After I switched to a 10mm hubcentric spacer I haven't had any problems. If it's not hubcentric get some hub rings or something. The negative camber puts a lot of stress on the studs.

its w/e.. the ebay ones, with built in studs, and hubcentric are the like 80 bucks a pair, and i think no different in price then the ones that arent hubcentric or dont have built in studs.

[URL]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HUB-CENTRIC-WHEEL-SPACERS-ADAPTERS-15MM-GS300-1998-2006-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aGS300QQhashZitem255cd2dae8QQitemZ160471112424QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories[/URL]

Consider this, current commercial trucks no longer use stud piloted wheels, only hub centric wheels. Stud piloted are obsolete and a friend of mine has 55 in good condition that he can't sell except for scrap. There was a transit bus a few years ago that lost a wheel and ended up killing a pedestrian when it rolled away. The cause was that one stud broke and the increased load caused the remaining 9 to break off. This is an extreme case since our cars will never see these kinds of load, but why chance it for a few dollars saved? On light cars like Civics and Miata, might not be so bad, but on a car that weighs more than twice as much and still only have 5 bolts per wheel. If you consider just the static weight, some of our cars truly do have twice the load per stud. And the studs/nuts are designed to fasten the wheel to the car as the main function, the hub rings are designed to hold the load and center the wheels on the suspension.

[QUOTE=chrispy;344980]I had 4/5 studs break off when I didn't use a hubcentric 5mm spacer. After I switched to a 10mm hubcentric spacer I haven't had any problems. If it's not hubcentric get some hub rings or something. The negative camber puts a lot of stress on the studs.[/QUOTE]
dont talk about camber.....come on man.
i know camber better than most, had more than most, all with NEVER having hubcentric ANYTHING on my car. i never used slip ons either. always bolt ons. 

you guys can say what you want, but if non hubcentrci were so bad, you would see MANY MANY MANY horror stories all over hte internet. i mean, 4 rota wheels fail and it makes it into every single knockoff post...

bad news travels, and it hasnt....so take that into account

[QUOTE=FLSImages;345201]dont talk about camber.....come on man.
i know camber better than most, had more than most, all with NEVER having hubcentric ANYTHING on my car. i never used slip ons either. always bolt ons. 

you guys can say what you want, but if non hubcentrci were so bad, you would see MANY MANY MANY horror stories all over hte internet. i mean, 4 rota wheels fail and it makes it into every single knockoff post...

[/QUOTE]

I agree, he knows camber. And the bolt on spacers are pretty strong. Running -6 camber with the 50mm spacers and topping out at 119MPH I can confirm that nonhubcentric bolt on spacers on ebay are the sh!t!

H&R or Ichiba hub centric spacers:biggthumpup:.