3 pcs wheel bolts?

Newb question. Shouldn't all the holes have a bolt or nut? Just bought these online so it was hard to tell from the pic's.....my thought is I shouldn't run them like this, thinking it shouldn't be a big deal to find bolts and get them corrected just a pain in the ass?
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/6GQ8V.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/NSXUi.jpg[/IMG]

i dont see anything wrong. how would you "correct" it? drill holes into the spokes so you can put bolts through?

lol thers spokes covering the area where the "open" holes are. I dont see how you would put bolts there. jussayin

[QUOTE=Vincent;398286]lol thers spokes covering the area where the "open" holes are. I dont see how you would put bolts there. jussayin[/QUOTE]
 
that's why I ask I wasnt sure but it does look like they are tapped for threads........I have another wheel (no Pic) that has a broke off bolt coming through where the "spoke" is, so hell I'm confused?

You are ok. Not to worried.

Where the face connects to the dish will just be "screw" bolts, the others are all where the two sides of the dish are connected and those are bolts with nuts on the back side.

So it is exactly the way it's supposed to be, minus the bolts to the face.

x2 Yup The hole on each spoke is threaded so no nut is needed . Just find the right length bolts with the same thread pitch.

[B]Wrong, on so many levels...[/B]someone screwed up ur wheel build and dangerous (alltho with good intentions) internet advice
 
That wheel is [B]not[/B] put back together correctly.
 
Take one of the bolts off and have it sized to buy a threaded rod section and extra bolts 
 
About 48" of threaded rod will give u material to spare...or screw up and start over 
 
- Cut the rod (should be about an inch or so ) and thread it into the [U][B]rim face[/B][/U] using vice grips (mid thread) with tape protecting it.
[B]- N[/B]ow your face will have "studs" for you to bolt the entire wheel. 
 
 
 
[B]A 3pc wheel is not something to to play with, if you dont know what you're doing [/B]
 
Need advice or pics of what Im talkin about just email me...

^ these where my thought as well, you would would assume if theres a hole there should be a bolt or stud. I've been emailing the seller and he says this.................."That is no bolt behind the spoke, like other same style wheels all have 20 bolts only."
 
either way I will have them looked at locally by a wheel shop....anyone recommend one in AZ (east valley if possible?) Kyoei?

something is strange about these wheels.   all the empty holes have marking of a nut once that was there.     Looks like the rim wasn't put back together the same way it came apart.

[QUOTE=Blitz;398325]something is strange about these wheels. all the empty holes have marking of a nut once that was there. Looks like the rim wasn't put back together the same way it came apart.[/QUOTE]
 
 
centers look brand new no mounting scars at all????

[QUOTE=Race Bannon;398323]^ these where my thought as well, you would would assume if theres a hole there should be a bolt or stud. I've been emailing the seller and he says this.................."That is no bolt behind the spoke, like other same style wheels all have 20 bolts only."
 
either way I will have them looked at locally by a wheel shop....anyone recommend one in AZ (east valley if possible?) Kyoei?[/QUOTE]
 
It's good thing you questioned it and didnt just put them on your car. Maybe the previous owner got bad info as well...but it is [B]234%[/B] [B]bad info[/B] :slap:
 
Also, Make sure they all get torqued to spec and without any type of dressing on the bolt threads.
 
 
 
good luck! :biggthumpup:

[QUOTE=Kohinoor;398351]although it does look like there were nuts there at one time, putting a threaded rod in a hole and screwing a nut onto it wont make the face any more secure to the barrel.
 
 
my wheels which are 'missing' bolts like yours:
[IMG]http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p289/xnotoriousfobx/Decorated%20images/EXP_0239.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p289/xnotoriousfobx/Decorated%20images/EXP_0221.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
 
Acually, it will make the wheel more secure. The weight stress of the car is on those "arms/spokes". Thats the last place you want stress and vibration due to the wheels not being to spec. 
 
Your wheels are not assembled correctly either. :sad: Please fix it soon. 
 
its like installing 4 lug nuts on a 5 lug car...yeah, it will work....till sumting goes wong!:giggity:
 
 
 
EDIT: Im headed downstairs to the garage...will take sum snaps of different wheels I have here

i reread your post and you are right (which is why i deleted my comment), threading rods into the spokes will work. add loctite for added security.

the wheels i posted are manufactured this way. ive had multiple sets of ld5's (second pic) and they have always been that way.

this is a brand new spare that i had
[img]http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p289/xnotoriousfobx/for%20sale/IMG_20101223_002011.jpg[/img]

Yeah I am with Blitz and DG. 
Edited:

What does the front of the wheel look like?
Looks like it would depend on the build of the wheel.

You guys don't get it.  There are screws which go from the back into the face and don't come out the front.  All the others are bolts from the front which are then held in place further by the nuts.  What I said was accurate and completely correct.

[QUOTE=elpresidente;398363]You guys don't get it. There are screws which go from the back into the face and don't come out the front. All the others are bolts from the front which are then held in place further by the nuts. What I said was accurate and completely correct.[/QUOTE]
 
No, unless you were [I]meaning to say[/I] "threaded rod and bolt". Its not a screw... Would be too much of a hassle to get the "Screw" seated @ the proper depth that will allow u to torque it to spec. Theres a reason why they use this 2 piece method. 
 
[I]concept[/I] is "correct"....just wrong at the same time.
 
 
 
Heres a MAYA that Im in the middle of restoring for one of my cars. These are the "factory" rods n bolts...
[IMG]http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg274/DriftGirl2/MayaFace1.jpg[/IMG]
its just a standard 40hole wheel...even tho you cant count 40 by looking at the face.
 
Ive got another set of rims that had lost bolts. I ordered new ones that are probably floating out to sea :( 
 
So I welded the entire wheel =)

Hey thanks you guys I appreciate all the feed back! Here are the front's dont mind my beer it was a long day...hah!
 
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/myEN2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/8TRkf.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=Blitz;398325]something is strange about these wheels.   all the empty holes have marking of a nut once that was there.     Looks like the rim wasn't put back together the same way it came apart.[/QUOTE]
There is supposed to be bolts that thread into the face where the spokes are. I mentioned that in my first post.  Did you guys not read what I said?

EDIT: after seeing the faces, what I said is EXACTLY correct.

[QUOTE=Race Bannon;398367]Hey thanks you guys I appreciate all the feed back! Here are the front's dont mind my beer it was a long day...hah!
 
[/QUOTE]
 
Love em! Sizes?

[QUOTE=DriftGirl;398376]Love em! Sizes?[/QUOTE]
 
9.5 +12, 10.5 +6 X 18 going to be some serious roll/pull/ hammer/cut/camber/yell/scream/ and a lot of beer to get them to work (95 LS400) I am new but not that new and don't mind the work/learning curve required to do it......I love them and again thanks for the help this is a great site!

Those are display wheels....they hang on the wall at the resellers shop.....they are not suppose to be sold because they are not completely assembled.....don't run them...its unsafe!!

[QUOTE=DriftGirl;398366]No, unless you were [I]meaning to say[/I] "threaded rod and bolt". Its not a screw... Would be too much of a hassle to get the "Screw" seated @ the proper depth that will allow u to torque it to spec. Theres a reason why they use this 2 piece method. 
 
[I]concept[/I] is "correct"....just wrong at the same time.
 
 
 
Heres a MAYA that Im in the middle of restoring for one of my cars. These are the "factory" rods n bolts...
[IMG]http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg274/DriftGirl2/MayaFace1.jpg[/IMG]
its just a standard 40hole wheel...even tho you cant count 40 by looking at the face.
 
Ive got another set of rims that had lost bolts. I ordered new ones that are probably floating out to sea :( 
 
So I welded the entire wheel =)[/QUOTE]
They come with the wheels from the factory Em.  Fuji Corp produces these screw bolts.  Maybe your Maya's didn't..but Maya/Trafficstar is not all wheels.  Do you honestly think every wheel is built the same?  My Leon's are apart right now..there are no "rods".  There are screw type bolts that go into where the spokes are.  Your wheels may have had those rods, but NONE of my 3 piece wheels have ever had rods.  All have been either all bolts with nuts like my BBS's or have had a combination of those with the screw bolts like my Work's and my Leon's (both Fuji Corp) where the spokes go to the edge of the face and there are no visible bolt heads.  

You may be right for your Maya's, but his wheels were made by SSR/Tanabe (from the model, most likely just SSR before Tanabe).

PS.  I hope you didn't weld your wheel after that safety speech you just gave.

el presidente...the thing that I wonder is why there is marks on the empty holes showing there used to be a nut that got torqued down there.   If you look at the other nuts they even look like they weren't centered correctly to where the nuts sat.   

I think these wheels were rebarreled with used inners...possibly the outers too.   Therefore all the old signs of bolts/nuts once sitting in those holes.    I think long as they are torqued correctly and loc-tite is used it should be fine.   (I would use red loc-tite since I doubt you'll take them apart again)

[QUOTE=Blitz;398497]el presidente...the thing that I wonder is why there is marks on the empty holes showing there used to be a nut that got torqued down there.   If you look at the other nuts they even look like they weren't centered correctly to where the nuts sat.   

I think these wheels were rebarreled with used inners...possibly the outers too.   Therefore all the old signs of bolts/nuts once sitting in those holes.    I think long as they are torqued correctly and loc-tite is used it should be fine.   (I would use red loc-tite since I doubt you'll take them apart again)[/QUOTE]
Because the bolts look like this:

[IMG]http://www.tunershop.com/product_images/Wheel_bolt_M7x24mm_stainless_steel_t_p220577.jpg[/IMG]

I have them on the wheels sitting 3ft from me as I type.

i've already came to the conclusion the barrels are from some other rim that used ALL the holes...therefore making those marks in the unused holes with that face...

Just wrong... LoL!! And yes I welded it...Just like the millions of wheels that are 3 piece welded....My Traffic stars and these MAYA's for example. Prolly other wheels Ive got laying around but never bothered to look. Its just the way it is... 
 
not gonna argue or debate something that I do. He can listen to you or me or anyone he thinks knows what theyre doing. I dont know what everyone else does, but I move a LOT of lips,bolts, back halves and WELDED 2 Piece hoops for people to rebuild their rims... I also do it myself and for "friends" and Clients. 
 
The Welding... I just happen to be really exceptional @ welding, so its not really a big deal for me to do it. 
 
I had sum extra 5.75 lips jus for shits n giggles... 
[IMG]http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q49/DriftGirl/125weld.jpg[/IMG]
forget warping...I Didnt even discolor the chrome...it Looks "factory" huh? How Gangsta is that?! :biggthumpup:
 
I wouldnt suggest beading the entire wheel like this if you arent handy with the gun, but a tack every few inches isnt a bad thing if you dont plan on taking them apart or just not comfy with the whole [I]3piece thing.[/I] 
 
People that think its "OK" to run a 40 hole wheel with only 20bolts should reeeaally look into this. No such thing as unused holes :smiley-rofl:
 
[B]Kidding aside, Yes, Its perfectly safe[/B] . Jus dont warp the wheel with too much heat or burn thru the aluminum...or burn / discolor the chrome.
 
Guys, Make sure u know the specs of your wheels. They have "dry" or "wet" torque values. 
 
Dont use loctite,etc. on the threads if they specify a [I]dry torque[/I]. You could have a bolt snap or stretch because of too much pressure. 
 
Youre supposed to back off a little bit when using a lube/loctite, but im not sure how much and dont wanna guess. 
 
[B]My personal[/B] way is to dry torque and then dab loctite on the exposed thread ends to help with any vibration that could cause them to back out. 
 
OK, im done with this...too much time and the OP has gotten his answer and moved on with his sexxxay set of rims. :runcoold:
 
 
( D_G )

For the record.  I am not wrong..and neither are you (for your wheels).  The fact that you can't accept someone else being right is the problem.  Throwing a barrage of information on the screen to toot your horn is not helping your case.  And potentially risking the safety of our members is not acceptable either.  

[/rant]