Fender Mod Questions

Coming from a 240sx, I had simpy rolled and pull the fronts about 45mm on each side and slightly pull the entire fender out by slotting the mounting holes in the engine bay to allow the entire fender to be sitting out about 75mm in front, ghetto but worked to fit the wheels. In the back, I just rolled lip flat and then proceeded to pull about 1" to accomodate the large tire I was running then on that wheel. Now, I see alot of people mentioning shaving the inner lip, does that just mean cut it off and grind inner edge flat and pull from there? wouldn't that make the fender really weak and possible cause it to pop/flex/distort while moving? I'm going to need to pull a bit front and rear to fit the wheels I'm ordering. Any help or pointers are appreciated, I don't want it to turn out ghetto for such a slight pull, don't want to repaint just yet!

Thanks!

I used to work at a preformance bmw and porshe shop and we didnt roll the fender we cut them.  Just be careful and cut the inner lip off, i never saw any come back distorted or dented because of it.

yeah like on your lexus, the lip is welded together. 240 it is just held together with body glue. so its a lot safer to just cut the lip off. leave a little bit of the edge left though to keep it in one piece, you cant cut it up to like totally flush with the inner fender like you can with an overfender.

240s are spot welded together too
if u cut it all off ur gunna have to re weld the edge
its a double layer panel u cut it u gotta reweld them back together


for BMWs
i know all new ones are pre rolled and that lip should just be smashed flat no need to cut what so ever, iunno why u doin that

i work on BMWs every other day and they made them to fit wheels i swear, nice big pull and everything just needs a lil tap to make it sit super flush

the 1/4s are spot welded on that lip to hold the wheel well and 1/4 together
once u grind or cut it off those 2 seperate parts are well - seperate
hence why u gotta weld it back together if u cut it off

[QUOTE=gmckey;36959]Coming from a 240sx, I had simpy rolled and pull the fronts about 45mm on each side and slightly pull the entire fender out by slotting the mounting holes in the engine bay to allow the entire fender to be sitting out about 75mm in front, ghetto but worked to fit the wheels. In the back, I just rolled lip flat and then proceeded to pull about 1" to accomodate the large tire I was running then on that wheel. Now, I see alot of people mentioning shaving the inner lip, does that just mean cut it off and grind inner edge flat and pull from there? wouldn't that make the fender really weak and possible cause it to pop/flex/distort while moving? I'm going to need to pull a bit front and rear to fit the wheels I'm ordering. Any help or pointers are appreciated, I don't want it to turn out ghetto for such a slight pull, don't want to repaint just yet!

Thanks![/QUOTE]

in order to run larger wheels, lower...

i folded out the edge of the rear fender,
removed the spot welds
separated the outter from inner fender
cut the inside out (lower inside vert and top)
shaped the exterior
shaped some sheet metal, and welded it back to the outter, higher

ridigity is retained

[QUOTE=viplife;37807]in order to run larger wheels, lower...

i folded out the edge of the rear fender,
removed the spot welds
separated the outter from inner fender
cut the inside out (lower inside vert and top)
shaped the exterior
shaped some sheet metal, and welded it back to the outter, higher

ridigity is retained[/QUOTE]

One of the best way to do it but I would prefer to section out and reweld that way the metal is not stretched and since you already have to repaint.

[QUOTE=EndlessNA1;38053]One of the best way to do it but I would prefer to section out and reweld that way the metal is not stretched and since you already have to repaint.[/QUOTE]

what fills the void?

if its a small gap use weld
if its bigger than a 1/8inch get some new metal, work a lil bit and then weld in place

[QUOTE=battleaxe;38188]if its a small gap use weld
if its bigger than a 1/8inch get some new metal, work a lil bit and then weld in place[/QUOTE]

stretching (with hand tools, not fender roller) will leave you with a finished product where sectioning leaves a void to be filled.  if the void is filled with welding rod, or sheet metal splinters welded in place, it introduces quite a bit of heat and an obvious change in the metal's form.  there's a good amount of hours spent in clean up if the metal panel is your base for paint.

have you tried this technique?

so what other hand tools, hammer and dolly?

sorry i just skimmed
what i said is still viable, it just takes forever
im assuming ur saying when u put the inner and outter back together?

if it is, then the inner can be smashed back flat and then u can tack it all along the edge and put seam sealer if ur that lazy

when u pulled the outer out and shaped it, was the edge still rolled?
i mean like having it one piece then u roll the end back inside to make a lil ledge?

iunno if im explaining this right i need to draw pics




what i originally thought was (without reading what u wrote) that u:
drilled spot welds out
seperated the 2 halfs
cut the outter off, added more metal flare
then welded it together
then welded or bonded the inner to the outer


i should learn to read it all haha
but theres lots of methods to doing flared fenders
however some cars like 86s have that lil bevelled edge that makes it shitty to roll over, all those 86 owners out there... none on here know what im talking about
anyways if what i said doenst make sence or need clarification ill draw osme pics up and post if u like

[QUOTE=viplife;38132]what fills the void?[/QUOTE]

Weld. Doesnt work well with toyotas though. Metal is too thin. Nissans especially hatch 240s are the best.

all autobody metal is the same thickness dood hahha
where u think its thicker, thats just 2 sheets together
im a bodyman, its what i do all day hahaaaaaha

How much are you going to pull? That will determine what method to use. There is a point where the metal wont strech and you will need to cut/add metal/fiberglass ect.

From what i can tell, everyone outside of Japan loves to do major pulls to get clearance. But over there it seems alot more simple. Doesnt fit? Get flares or widebody. I dont think i have seen a car in the mags where noticeable pulling was used (seen some minor pulls but nothing like being discussed here)

This is not an attack, merely an observation. Anyone know why?

Big enough?
[img]http://www.ziptied.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10791/sunlight.jpg[/img]

what he told me:
"the rears are at 18x9 -13 with a weak spacer at the moment for lowering purposes, they need that spacer sitting on the piano to be flush"

brings it to like -37

[img]http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo03/ad/fc/37f95328d2bf.jpg[/img]



i totally hear u though, very few ppl weld on metal flares and shit
there is a point in pulling that it is just better to get soem metal flares and weld them on (after cutting of course)
widebody is a easy way as well, makes it all even
i think in the next 5 years we'll start to see some VIP cars take shape and also crazier bodys take form

and i dont mean importing a car thats already done
its good in one way and shitty in another cause its not ur own work plus u dont know exactly what was done etc. (thats not an attack either on you btw)

i may go crazy with my cressy but not any time soon, i like stock body with a light pull or even just a roll
'ballers' here buy really ugly cars and put big wheels on them, theres just a different mind set.
keep in mind japan has a lot of subcultures in car life
here we're only used to HIN and starting to get into drift style, but our drift style is totally different than japans by MILES AND MILES
ya it brings a new taste to it, but NA taste is cheap wheels, cheap aero, cheap paint etc, so it doenst have the same quality as that in japan.
the few VIP cars here that are modded nice, they dotn go crazy with the bodies either, cause with the money they have, they have a nice car, not a old car thats been built up.

do i make sence? iunno thats my thoughts on it, ppl here are just cheap in general, not saying we cant attain that level of quality, it just takes a certain few to get the ball rollin i guess.

No offence taken about importing already done. I originally imported a ready-done one because *nobody* seemed willing to flare/widebody a 4 door car under 5 digit quotes, and even then I suspected it would be a far cry from the quality you see there

Since then i have found that the Japanese arent perfect when it comes to widebodies - most of the imported widebody cars crack like crazy after a few years. But now that i have seen how its done (particularly around the rear door), i think i would feel more comfortable getting someone to do it here - i would be able to tell them exactly what they need to do. 

For some reason i havent seen a pull job that i like yet - it always looks... pulled. I prefer the hard, perfect line of a weld-on flare or ultra smooth widebody, over the skateboard ramp effect you tend to get on a pull.

But i'm into the 'other white meat' now, i like radiused fenders ;)