Work wheel take thy partith

Whats the socket, or is there a socket for taking apart these wheels? any one had experience doing this? I am guessing it is a something .5 mm i have a few but none of them them work an 8mm was to big too

not my wheels but the same Type N
[IMG]http://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachments/wheels-and-tires-classifieds/112287d1191433795-work-euroline-19-type-n-wheels-w-falken-fk452-tires-eurolinetypen.jpg[/IMG]

and yes i know they are welded two piece i am looking to get the bolts out to polish them

Shouldnt this b on the wheel section? lol...

yeah, but there was a big AF logo in the way and didnt see the section

OIC, interesting... something I dont know?!?!?! Lol...

what kinda bolts?  got any closeup shots?

they are the star kind, not allen wrench bolts
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/Dlorah/MAE-02.jpg?t=1270179813[/IMG]

I think I used 12point sockets for those kind of bolts.   BUT when I used it I just held the bolt in place while I impacted off the nut on the back (inside) side.    I would use hand tools and go slowly and try to back them out.

However after reviewing your first picture are these bolts sucken in?

random pic found using google.
[IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y291/purplehighlinemonster/IMG_03-1.jpg[/IMG]

Mine were 7M.  The serrated nuts on the back are for sure 7M.  Weds Kranze.  Same 12 point star as mentioned earlier used by Work and SSR, etc. You can buy a set of spline removal tools from O'Riley for <$10 and it comes with 5 different sizes.  We only need one obviously.  I will look up the size for sure when I get home.  

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg111/szell001/AAMy%20Build/DSC00441.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg111/szell001/AAMy%20Build/DSC00439.jpg[/IMG]

As an aside, the "BBS style" bolts can be taken out with a 12 point 8mm ratcheting wrench.  Weds uses those on the back of the faces for added hardware strength.  Also, I used the other method mentioned earlier by simply loosening the rear and holding the face still.  Best way or the chrome will crack in the crevices and rust later.  

7M bolts/nuts are the bin laden of all hardware to find BTW.  Oh and don't use CLR to clean anything but the chrome plated bolts...I learned the hard way.

thanks for the info! those bolts are boss.

The ones i am working with are what Blitz showed. and they are sunken in with no bolt on the back side. they are there for decoration since sadly they are a weld on 2pc

can you get a close up of the bolt head?

Will when at shop again.

7mm 12 point

Like stated, 7m 12 point

yup, forgot to give thanks. I ended up buying a whole set haha
here is the wheels

[IMG]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/302491_10150271176593693_568193692_8009897_5440132_n.jpg[/IMG]
not done yet, but close enough

Were those on zilvia? If so the paint work on the lips is nuts!

nope they are different ones, unless you think anodized chrome is awesome lol

I think you are looking for a bit called a triple square. Like a torques tip but 12 sided..

yeah, already got it done ^ 

now my biggest issue is the bolts in the center cap. I painted over them and going to tape around them and polish them. It seemed they were pressed in rather than screwed in, and when applying lots of pressure it starts to tear the metal on the back side as my customer demonstrated to me.

[IMG]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/318721_10150271833208693_568193692_8015697_7041913_n.jpg[/IMG]

Mine were set in and I just removed the nut on the backside of the face and then pounded the bolt out. To replace they will be pressed in and then the bolt tightened from the rear. Onc ethe bolt was remove, you could clearly tell that the bolt was NEVER meant to be tightened but rather just the nut tighten onto it based on the bolt seat. 
 
[IMG]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h255/burgy240/Lowenharts001.jpg[/IMG]
 
Of course these are Lowenharts not work so it may be different.

Glad to see you are making progress. ^ I think he is talking about the center cap. You are right as for tightening the back nut tho, the front is not meant to turn, but rather be held in place and the nuts torqued when it come to bolting the face to the rest of the wheel.
 
The back of the cap is solid I think and there is no way to access the bolts/rivets right? Work typically has 2 that screw into the wheel face and the rest are "fake". Sounds like it's going to be a bitch now that they are already painted. Any chance you can polish them and just repaint the caps. It's going to be really hard to get the detail for which you are striving. Full faced rims FTW lol.
 
Is there any way you can drill out a small hole behind the screws and push them out?

well, kinda. but i think the screws are pressed in on the center cap. taping it off is harder than taping the surrounding area to polish the bolt. I just havent got around to it yet