Reverse mounting affecting offset

I've been searching for this and have come up with a million answers..

I need to know as precisely as possible how much reverse or front mounting affects the offset change on 3 piece wheels.

They're work Equips 01, I know a tonn of you guys have built works before so let me know!

Do the Math... it's simple...

Since you aren't changing the width, you are lowering the offset by how ever much you move the wheel back. So, if the mounting flange of the barrel is 10mm thick, you move the center to the back side of the flange, you lower the offset by 10mm.

not really Iamsv... it's a whole other measurement cause you're changing what is positive and what is negative offset because the front of the wheel has changed... cause if you have a positive offset wheel (depending on how much)... when you reverse the face... you can have a very negative offset wheel... cause you're mounting surface is now very much behind the true centerline of the wheel measured from centerline of the wheel away from the new front of the wheel...

Center line of the mount... not of the center of the wheel itself.

If you were flipping the face the other way around and mounting using the rear barrel as the front lip and the lip as the barrel then you would have a point... But this is just a forward or backwards movement, only affecting offset by however much the face has moved in or out.

I need to find out how think the lip and rear barrel are at the mounting surface.

I don't think he is flipping the wheel center, just moving the mounting point to behind the flanges? If I read his post correctly.

rodney, he's talking about moving the face from behind the flange to the front of the flange, not reversing the face on the barrel.

yeah I got it... Should be even simpler... LOL... =)
 
I would be concerned whether or not the barrel and face where made to be attached in the either/or position...

This is what reverse mounting is...

BBS and Equips been doin it for years!

Sorry crap photo, left is reverse mounted, front is front mount.

[IMG]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5134/5483575773_bb01eb9635.jpg[/IMG]


Anyways, finally figured it out, it's 12mm

what i see you is you changed the mounting by sandwiching the face with the lip and barrel. Measure the thickness of the face and thats how much you decreased the offset. but you also widened the wheel by the much.

thickness of face and flang at mounting point combined. front mount being a positive offset change. width is unaffected.

[QUOTE=OG;407818]thickness of face and flang at mounting point combined. front mount being a positive offset change. width is unaffected.[/QUOTE]

thickness of face where it bolts up to the flange and flange itself thickness combined.   Not to be confused with thickness of entire face or pad size.

I dunno... I figure someone might get confused.   I know what you meant though OG

So OG is saying in this pic measure where the flange bolts go...on the barrel and on the face.
[IMG]http://www.m3post.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=339997&stc=1&d=1263004536[/IMG]

Picture isn't a great example... the BBS LM are better since the face mounting side is flat both sides.

correct. it was hard to word.

its easier to figure out than it is to reply to the thread and word it correctly :smiley-rofl:

^ This. It is easier on a BBS wheel because most are 2 piece (BBS LM, LM-R, etc). Much harder on a 3 piece, as you can either move it to the back of the inner barrel (which is easy to calculate the change as you don't change the width of the wheel), or sandwich the center, which does change the width of the overall wheel, and requires a bit more math....

[QUOTE=lamsv;407866]^ This. It is easier on a BBS wheel because most are 2 piece (BBS LM, LM-R, etc). Much harder on a 3 piece, as you can either move it to the back of the inner barrel (which is easy to calculate the change as you don't change the width of the wheel), or sandwich the center, which does change the width of the overall wheel, and requires a bit more math....[/QUOTE]

I would think the only rims able to do this are rims with faces that allow the face to be bolted on the underside of the flange rather than on top of the flange.  Such as BBS LMs.   A rim face like VS-XX wouldn't be able to because it woudn't bolt up correctly once moved to the underside of the flange.

Yep. Mounting flange on the center has to be perfectly flat on the front and back.

almost seems pointless regardless in my eyes.

Most wheels you can't evn do this

It is the same concept as milling down the mounting flange to make it a higher offset. If you can flip the center, it keeps you from having to use spacers to get better fitment. You can fine tune your fitment with out resorting to spacers or new barrels.

So a sandwich mount, Barrel | Face | Barrel?
If so, it depends on the face of the wheel. From what i've seen, what they do is they mill down flange.  Basically cutting it down to where it is FLAT to sit flush between the two barrels. Depending on the face of a rim, some will be easier than others. Although i've seen concave type of faces done with sandwich faces.
Doing this can definitely change a ugly wheel into a sweet looking one. 


So before most of you think it can't be done, it can. It takes innovation & creativity, always gotta be ahead of the game.
Although, it seems more for aesthetics?

I've seen a couple wheels done,  i've seen also seen VS-XX with a sandwich face, oh how sweet did it look...

Few examples of a WORK EQUIP wheel.
Before, 
[IMG]http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/228930_173029806098806_100001753641118_386744_3744181_n.jpg[/IMG]

After, 
[IMG]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/205998_173029796098807_100001753641118_386743_3437094_n.jpg[/IMG]

Now thats a lotta lip

[QUOTE=JN.FYC;407986]Few examples of a WORK EQUIP wheel.
Before, 
[IMG]http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/228930_173029806098806_100001753641118_386744_3744181_n.jpg[/IMG]

After, 
[IMG]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/205998_173029796098807_100001753641118_386743_3437094_n.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]

First one is a DDC lip

Second is a some kind of reverse lip

yeah... orientation hasn't changed on that equip, it just went from ddc to custom drill reverse. it is sexy though.

I was under the impression you meant flip the face.  There is no set number on that since the disk sizes vary along with the profile of the face.

Just reverse mounting the face would be as mentioned 12-13mm's.  Also as mentioned, you cant with all wheels.  The mounting surface has to be flat.

On some really thick wheels, the difference would be up to 25mm's but on most wheels, it would be 12-13mm's.  Just measure the part that mounts to the barrel to get your answer.  Mount it reverse, subtract the 12-13mm's.

OOOPS!
I have no idea why i posted that. lol

always wondered the same thing

[QUOTE=BAHC;407919]almost seems pointless regardless in my eyes.[/QUOTE]

Not when you're rebuilding wheels with low offsets to begin with.

IE, 18x10 +22 Build it to an 11 with just lips and you have a +10 on 11". My G can't handle that so I need to increase the offset by at least 10mm in order to not add more camber or have my work cut out for me with the roller.

Everything has it's purpose.

Thank you OG, I wasn't sure if it was just the width of the flange or if it was flange + face!