wheel fitment question

OK so in my rear im currently 18x10+19 and going to 18x10-12 (deal and wheels i couldnt pass up) how extensive do you think my fender work will be if I run -5 camber? Btw im on air so sitting on the tire is fine

before:

[IMG]http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/267656_10150238472486817_695401816_7842160_3182043_n.jpg[/IMG]

New Rear

[IMG]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x30/modwell/2011-06-10171047.jpg[/IMG]

Ah man I always liked those what kind of deal are we talking about come on you can tell us. What camber if any are you running now? Depending on face styles those new rims will be roughly 1" farther out than your current set up

[QUOTE=onelowr;413860]Ah man I always liked those what kind of deal are we talking about come on you can tell us. What camber if any are you running now? Depending on face styles those new rims will be roughly 1" farther out than your current set up[/QUOTE]

1375 shipped and no camber as of right now

pretty easy math. its 31mm more pokage
so take into account that difference. i dont know how much clearance u get for each degree of camber, but maybe u can find out once u mount it up
btw, arent corollas solid beam in the back?

they make camber shims that go between the rear hub assembly and the torsion bar. since the torsion beam doesn't do anything except hold the hubs, it doesn't affect the suspension. biggest disadvantage however is that the shims are solid pieces of metal and unadjustable, what you get is what you get.

[QUOTE=brainneeded;413873]they make camber shims that go between the rear hub assembly and the torsion bar. since the torsion beam doesn't do anything except hold the hubs, it doesn't affect the suspension. biggest disadvantage however is that the shims are solid pieces of metal and unadjustable, what you get is what you get.[/QUOTE]



^^^^this I am having shims made by a buddy of mine

1 degree is usually about 5mm of clearance.  id get shims for -7 camber to be on the safe side.

im gunna go -5 and radius the fenders

Agreed with BAHC. Every degree is roughly 5mm of offset change.

Definitely interested to see this, what car is it?

[QUOTE=BAHC;413986]1 degree is usually about 5mm of clearance.  id get shims for -7 camber to be on the safe side.[/QUOTE]
cool. that is good to know. thanks

[QUOTE=4DGS;414283]Agreed with BAHC. Every degree is roughly 5mm of offset change.

Definitely interested to see this, what car is it?[/QUOTE]

08 corolla

Interesting, post up some full shots. The new wheels are going to look awesome!

[IMG]http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa207/truepaint/42aad257.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa207/truepaint/0c3d6fbe.jpg[/IMG]

Couple more recent pics

Are you going to sell those wheels?

Yea as soon as I get the new ones on and fender work done also prob selling my vsxx

[QUOTE=truepaint;414754]Yea as soon as I get the new ones on and fender work done also prob selling my vsxx[/QUOTE]

What are the specs on them?

Nice, hows the ride?

[QUOTE=onelowr;415299]What are the specs on them?[/QUOTE]

Vs-xx:

2d chrome
18x8 +35 and 19x10 +51 5x114

Euroline dh:

Full polish
18x8.5 +25 18x10 +38 5x100

Assuming when you camber your hub it pivots right in the middle, you're going to be able to measure it pretty accurately.

With 18" rims, your top lip should be roughly 230mm from the middle of the hub. Might be more like 240 with the lip, but it's not gonna change that much. If you want to measure it to be precise you can? Measure the outside of the face and halve it.

At 240mm from middle/pivot to top lip, you're going to get ~4.2mm of -offset for every degree of neg camber. Assuming you're at Zero now (probably not, but you can measure it if you like when you get alignment done), then you're going to gain 5 degrees of negative, giving you ~21mm more clearance at the top. Then you're going to add +31mm of rim, so THEORETICALLY you should sit 10mm further out.


That said, it all depends on your suspension setup. I'm not familiar with how the camber is adjusted on your vehicle. If it's done by pushing the bottom of the hub outwards, not the top of the hub inwards, then you're barely going to get any more room, if any at all. A lot of cars won't pivot the hub directly through the center of the mounting holes when you adjust camber, so it's going to be variable. Plus you've got the face offset from the bolts to calculate when you're adjusting for pivot location.. so it gets complicated. If you want to be more sure, lift it off the ground and undo where your shim sits (if possible?) then move it in and out and see where it's "pivoting" with respect to the wheel face. Further down below hub = more offset at the top lip for each degree of camber. Above hub = less offset at the top lip for each degree of camber.
Hope that helps though :)

Finally got a chance to test fit before camber.. Gunna need work

[IMG]http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa207/truepaint/f9ef682f.jpg[/IMG]

ya, i dont think -5 will clear that, but itll look sick as fuck when you eventually get it on there!

yea ill prob go -7 but its gunna be a bit till i can get my shims finished. Gotta pay to play