Looking for pics of LS430's with rear fender work
Just had my suspension dialed in yesterday and it looks like I need fender work to get the wheels to fit without rubbing. I am going to maintain the factory body line and flare out the piece close to the door.
What I need are some pics of LS430s/UCF3# with rear fender work. If you guys have a stash of pics you can post. Pictures speak more than words, so I'd like to bring some print outs to my body guy to ensure he knows what I'm expecting.
Thanks in advance!
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Just had my suspension dialed in yesterday and it looks like I need fender work to get the wheels to fit without rubbing. I am going to maintain the factory body line and flare out the piece close to the door.
What I need are some pics of LS430s/UCF3# with rear fender work. If you guys have a stash of pics you can post. Pictures speak more than words, so I'd like to bring some print outs to my body guy to ensure he knows what I'm expecting.
Thanks in advance!
Great thread... I could use some pics too. Do you have any plans to do a radius or just widening?
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Great thread... I could use some pics too. Do you have any plans to do a radius or just widening?
Still deciding if I want to radius, but definitely widening. This is my desired ride height, but I need another couple degrees of negative camber in the front. Rear fender sits on the tire at the 10 o'clock position here in this pic.

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Still deciding if I want to radius, but definitely widening. This is my desired ride height, but I need another couple degrees of negative camber in the front. Rear fender sits on the tire at the 10 o'clock position here in this pic.
[IMG]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/429983_394547310559166_227485117265387_1705857_261231607_n.jpg[/IMG]
the wheel is rubbing because it has been pulled forward due to lowering, same deal as what you went through up front. doesn't make sense to spend that money to alter the body when the same money could be spent correcting the geometry.
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the wheel is rubbing because it has been pulled forward due to lowering, same deal as what you went through up front. doesn't make sense to spend that money to alter the body when the same money could be spent correcting the geometry.
OG;439719 wrote:the wheel is rubbing because it has been pulled forward due to lowering, same deal as what you went through up front. doesn't make sense to spend that money to alter the body when the same money could be spent correcting the geometry.
Enlighten me...I'm not as educated in suspension as you. What would be needed to move the wheel back?
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[QUOTE=OG;439719]the wheel is rubbing because it has been pulled forward due to lowering, same deal as what you went through up front. doesn't make sense to spend that money to alter the body when the same money could be spent correcting the geometry.[/QUOTE]
Enlighten me...I'm not as educated in suspension as you. What would be needed to move the wheel back?
the traction rod is the most relevant component, but sometimes these things need to be replaced in groups.
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the traction rod is the most relevant component, but sometimes these things need to be replaced in groups.
Which one is the rear traction rod?

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Which one is the rear traction rod?
[IMG]http://lexus.sewellparts.com/images/oem/700x500/481693.jpg[/IMG]
17
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[IMG]http://www.dealerdirectparts.com/v/vspfiles/photos/8931500.gif[/IMG]
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this might help:
[url]http://meganracing.com/products/product_detail.asp?prodid=1188&catid=54[/url]
Hmm, i'll have to do some reading up on how the traction rod affects things.
Either way, fender work will need to be done b/c I don't want to roll with cracked paint & wavy fenders.
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Hmm, i'll have to do some reading up on how the traction rod affects things.
Either way, fender work will need to be done b/c I don't want to roll with cracked paint & wavy fenders.
lengthening the traction rod has some various functional aspects such as bumpsteer correction, but for this application all you need to know is it puts the wheel where it's supposed to be.
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lengthening the traction rod has some various functional aspects such as bumpsteer correction, but for this application all you need to know is it puts the wheel where it's supposed to be.
Ordering the traction arms and toe arms today. Thanks for the info OG.
So back on topic...still looking for pics.
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Ordering the traction arms and toe arms today. Thanks for the info OG.
So back on topic...still looking for pics.
hmm, theres a few in february's vipcar and vipstyle, I will have to upload the pics.
What are your goals? Keep the factory line on the fender and just extend the arch out a few mm's?
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hmm, theres a few in february's vipcar and vipstyle, I will have to upload the pics.
What are your goals? Keep the factory line on the fender and just extend the arch out a few mm's?
Keep factory line, widen about 25mm from factory. It's already been pulled, which caused the rears to lose that line. I want to get it back and clean it up. Bumpy fenders belong on beat up 240s.
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Keep factory line, widen about 25mm from factory. It's already been pulled, which caused the rears to lose that line. I want to get it back and clean it up. Bumpy fenders belong on beat up 240s.
Looks like a long process but this journey will pay off fo'sho.
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Looks like a long process but this journey will pay off fo'sho.
waijai;439921 wrote:Ordering the traction arms and toe arms today. Thanks for the info OG.
So back on topic...still looking for pics.
Which arms did you end up going with?
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[QUOTE=waijai;439921]Ordering the traction arms and toe arms today. Thanks for the info OG.
So back on topic...still looking for pics.[/QUOTE]
Which arms did you end up going with?
Ordered the Megan arms, since a friend is a dealer for them.
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Ordered the Megan arms, since a friend is a dealer for them.
lol. i thought your sig was sarcastic.
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lol. i thought your sig was sarcastic.
LOL, it was from a guy I know on the G35 forum.
Never said i was going big in the suspension dept. :)
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LOL, it was from a guy I know on the G35 forum.
Never said i was going big in the suspension dept. :)
you realize the consequences of failure when it comes to suspension right? those new wheels, gone; that fender work you're about to spend money on, destroyed. i've seen enough megan arms to know i will never run them. bad welds, cheap joints, etc. not the place to go budget shopping imo. always amazes me how much people will spend to make something look good on the outside, but when it comes to functional/structural parts they get treated like an afterthought. it's your car though, not mine.
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you realize the consequences of failure when it comes to suspension right? those new wheels, gone; that fender work you're about to spend money on, destroyed. i've seen enough megan arms to know i will never run them. bad welds, cheap joints, etc. not the place to go budget shopping imo. always amazes me how much people will spend to make something look good on the outside, but when it comes to functional/structural parts they get treated like an afterthought. it's your car though, not mine.
I appreciate the thoughts, but I am well aware of the potential risk involved in lower end parts. Personally I cannot justify spending over $3000 on 3 suspension arms, and that's just my personal choice.
If there were better choices available at a lesser price, I would consider. If Studio or Figs came out with parts, I would probably choose them. But the feeling I get is that UCF3# parts are not something they really want to invest time into. And if they do, how many more months/years would it be before something was released?
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I appreciate the thoughts, but I am well aware of the potential risk involved in lower end parts. Personally I cannot justify spending over $3000 on 3 suspension arms, and that's just my personal choice.
If there were better choices available at a lesser price, I would consider. If Studio or Figs came out with parts, I would probably choose them. But the feeling I get is that UCF3# parts are not something they really want to invest time into. And if they do, how many more months/years would it be before something was released?