Stabilizer links
Never seen anyone doing it here, but have seen on minkara. Guys make them shorter, reweld or replace with adjustable ones.
Nagisa also makes them.
http://www.nagisa-auto.com/products/stabi_link/index.html
So here is a question: can someone tell me if its nessesary ?? Its a quite easy think to do, so why not to do it if it helps =)
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Never seen anyone doing it here, but have seen on minkara. Guys make them shorter, reweld or replace with adjustable ones.
Nagisa also makes them. [URL]http://www.nagisa-auto.com/products/stabi_link/index.html[/URL]
So here is a question: can someone tell me if its nessesary ?? Its a quite easy think to do, so why not to do it if it helps =)
http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/306807/car/200930/1448152/note.aspx
http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/306807/car/200930/1448189/note.aspx
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[URL="http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/306807/car/200930/1448152/note.aspx"]http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/306807/car/200930/1448152/note.aspx
[url]http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/306807/car/200930/1448189/note.aspx[/url]
[/URL]
what it does is takes preload off the sway bar. as far as necessary, it depends on what your goals are. do you want your lowered ride to preform as good as possible or is looking cool enough for you?
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what it does is takes preload off the sway bar. as far as necessary, it depends on what your goals are. do you want your lowered ride to preform as good as possible or is looking cool enough for you?
I don't get why the Celsior dude shortened 'em... making adjustable ones is quite easy. Just get small uniball joints, misalignment spacers, bolts, threaded profile/extension nuts. Or if feeling cheap buy new bones, cut 'em, weld extension nuts on both halves, cut adequate pieces of a long ass threaded rod, add locking nut and done (well might even cost more than option 1, depending if you're buying oem bones)
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I don't get why the Celsior dude shortened 'em... making adjustable ones is quite easy. Just get small uniball joints, misalignment spacers, bolts, threaded profile/extension nuts. Or if feeling cheap buy new bones, cut 'em, weld extension nuts on both halves, cut adequate pieces of a long ass threaded rod, add locking nut and done (well might even cost more than option 1, depending if you're buying oem bones)
for the same reason people hack up shit everywhere. they either don't know what's available, don't have the understanding to figure it out themselves, or don't want to pay to do it right. i plan on running the nagisa eventually.
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for the same reason people hack up shit everywhere. they either don't know what's available, don't have the understanding to figure it out themselves, or don't want to pay to do it right. i plan on running the nagisa eventually.
I just want to know what it does. If it improves driving/turning, then I would do it. I dont really care about making them adjustable, I will never raise my car :)
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I just want to know what it does. If it improves driving/turning, then I would do it. I dont really care about making them adjustable, I will never raise my car :)
this is one of those things that i can only make an educated guess at based on the theory. i have no experience yet and just realized relatively recently that this was something to persue. that being said, there is nothing that i have done in the name of correction thus far that has not yielded positive results.
the function of the sway bar is to control weight transfer from side to side. when you turn left the car leans right. this causes the right end of the sway bar to pull up on the left wheel, which keeps the car more level and reduces side to side weight transfer. here's where i get a little unsure, but i think the main benefit for our app is to reduce binding. you may have noticed that when dealing with a slammed car sometimes the endlinks are at such extreme angles that the joints are bound. if they can not articulate the sway bar can not do it's job. by adjusting the length and through the use of high misalignment bearings i'd imagine you can fix this. the other benefit i see mentioned is related to corner weighing, where each corner may be at different heights, but that's pure track stuff and not really relevant imo.
in conclusion, my guesstimation is that shortening the endlinks on a lowered car will restore functionaltiy to the sway bar, which is designed to control side to side weight transfer. also, by correcting a bind situation, i expect that there is some ride comfort to be gained.
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this is one of those things that i can only make an educated guess at based on the theory. i have no experience yet and just realized relatively recently that this was something to persue. that being said, there is nothing that i have done in the name of correction thus far that has not yielded positive results.
the function of the sway bar is to control weight transfer from side to side. when you turn left the car leans right. this causes the right end of the sway bar to pull up on the left wheel, which keeps the car more level and reduces side to side weight transfer. here's where i get a little unsure, but i think the main benefit for our app is to reduce binding. you may have noticed that when dealing with a slammed car sometimes the endlinks are at such extreme angles that the joints are bound. if they can not articulate the sway bar can not do it's job. by adjusting the length and through the use of high misalignment bearings i'd imagine you can fix this. the other benefit i see mentioned is related to corner weighing, where each corner may be at different heights, but that's pure track stuff and not really relevant imo.
in conclusion, my guesstimation is that shortening the endlinks on a lowered car will restore functionaltiy to the sway bar, which is designed to control side to side weight transfer. also, by correcting a bind situation, i expect that there is some ride comfort to be gained.
OG;456661 wrote:
in conclusion, my guesstimation is that shortening the endlinks on a lowered car will restore functionaltiy to the sway bar, which is designed to control side to side weight transfer. also, by correcting a bind situation, i expect that there is some ride comfort to be gained.
But wouldn't that be the opposite... just that the best performance of the sway bars is gained when they "sit" as they where meant to "sit" from factory, thus the need to add more length to them when you're pulling the rest of the suspension components higher? I know suspension geometry ain't witchcraft, but sometimes it just gets my head spinning =)
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[QUOTE=OG;456661]
in conclusion, my guesstimation is that shortening the endlinks on a lowered car will restore functionaltiy to the sway bar, which is designed to control side to side weight transfer. also, by correcting a bind situation, i expect that there is some ride comfort to be gained.[/QUOTE]
But wouldn't that be the opposite... just that the best performance of the sway bars is gained when they "sit" as they where meant to "sit" from factory, thus the need to add more length to them when you're pulling the rest of the suspension components higher? I know suspension geometry ain't witchcraft, but sometimes it just gets my head spinning =)
Juzzo;456691 wrote:But wouldn't that be the opposite... just that the best performance of the sway bars is gained when they "sit" as they where meant to "sit" from factory, thus the need to add more length to them when you're pulling the rest of the suspension components higher? I know suspension geometry ain't witchcraft, but sometimes it just gets my head spinning =)
That's what I was thinking as well, that we would actually want to lengthen the endlinks since (at least in my case) the endlink mount on the strut is moved higher, further away from the sway bar, causing the sway bar to be pulled up and putting load on it. Looking at this link that was posted,
http://www.nagisa-auto.com/products/stabi_link/index.html, it also appears to say to use longer endlinks to return the sway bar to the same position as stock.
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[QUOTE=Juzzo;456691]But wouldn't that be the opposite... just that the best performance of the sway bars is gained when they "sit" as they where meant to "sit" from factory, thus the need to add more length to them when you're pulling the rest of the suspension components higher? I know suspension geometry ain't witchcraft, but sometimes it just gets my head spinning =)[/QUOTE]
That's what I was thinking as well, that we would actually want to lengthen the endlinks since (at least in my case) the endlink mount on the strut is moved higher, further away from the sway bar, causing the sway bar to be pulled up and putting load on it. Looking at this link that was posted, [URL]http://www.nagisa-auto.com/products/stabi_link/index.html[/URL], it also appears to say to use longer endlinks to return the sway bar to the same position as stock.
it will vary, longer or shorter, depending on suspension design.
on the lexus suspension the endlinks are pushed up by the lca, which push up on the sway bar. by shortneting the links you are returning the sway bar to it's original position. that's how geometry correction works, returning things to their designed angles.
on the infiniti example shown lowering the car pulls up on the sway, so the links are lengthened to return the sway bar to it's original position.
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it will vary, longer or shorter, depending on suspension design.
on the lexus suspension the endlinks are pushed up by the lca, which push up on the sway bar. by shortneting the links you are returning the sway bar to it's original position. that's how geometry correction works, returning things to their designed angles.
on the infiniti example shown lowering the car pulls up on the sway, so the links are lengthened to return the sway bar to it's original position.
Alright makes sense, it just depends on if your sway bar is pushed or pulled up. In my case, it's pulled up so it looks like I'll need to order those adjustable endlinks after all.
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Alright makes sense, it just depends on if your sway bar is pushed or pulled up. In my case, it's pulled up so it looks like I'll need to order those adjustable endlinks after all.