help from some of you expeirenced custom body guys

so, could you guys give me an idea on how to make cardboard templates for mu custom fenders. so ive decited to make them out of fiberglass instead metal for the time being until i het the metal working exp.

I found a whole heap of links last night about how over-fenders are done in Japan, including one link on how to DIY fibreglass fenders. It was all Japanese but the pics might help. I'll post them when i get home...

coolers, sounds great! i used to have one that showed a step by step fabing some metal fenders on a odyssey.

[url]http://www.bpc.co.jp/sl-wide.htm[/url]
[url]http://www5d.biglobe.ne.jp/~o-works/overfender2.htm[/url]
[url]http://www2s.biglobe.ne.jp/~ETgarage/ETGC10/SemiWorks/SemiWorks02.html[/url]
[url]http://www.auto-g.jp/dress_up/diy/02_24/[/url]
^^^ This is the DIY site. Since you probably dont speak Japanese i'll offer these tips:
It says it will cost you about $800 all up, and take close to 10hrs
Step 2, the writing on the can says Urethane Spray, i'm guessing its a foam spray
Step 5 says to cut the front fender with a grinder
Step 6, clockwise from FRP says Putty/Pate?, Sandpaper & Cut (i.e. cut that part off)
Step 7, FRP, Putty/Pate, Sandpaper
Step 8, The tube says Bondo
The rest you should be able to translate on one of those translation sites - Altavista etc

[url]http://www.frp-zone.com/frp-overfen1.html[/url]
This one also shows how to DIY, but its alot more to translate... :(

Dominik,

awesome find... ;)

i guess there is no return once u start cutting.. :o


[quote=Dominik ]
[url]http://www.bpc.co.jp/sl-wide.htm[/url]
[url]http://www5d.biglobe.ne.jp/~o-works/overfender2.htm[/url]
[url]http://www2s.biglobe.ne.jp/~ETgarage/ETGC10/SemiWorks/SemiWorks02.html[/url]
[url]http://www.auto-g.jp/dress_up/diy/02_24/[/url]
^^^ This is the DIY site. Since you probably dont speak Japanese i'll offer these tips:
It says it will cost you about $800 all up, and take close to 10hrs
Step 2, the writing on the can says Urethane Spray, i'm guessing its a foam spray
Step 5 says to cut the front fender with a grinder
Step 6, clockwise from FRP says Putty/Pate?, Sandpaper & Cut (i.e. cut that part off)
Step 7, FRP, Putty/Pate, Sandpaper
Step 8, The tube says Bondo
The rest you should be able to translate on one of those translation sites - Altavista etc

[url]http://www.frp-zone.com/frp-overfen1.html[/url]
This one also shows how to DIY, but its alot more to translate... :(
[/quote]

What i was really looking for though, and what i did not find, was how they do the rear fenders on 4 door sedans. I want to know about the section where the flare goes into the door - how far do they cut the fenders?

Edit, and i'm not sure if i bookmarked it; I found a site where they were cutting the hell out of a BRAND NEW CL55... :o

Looked hot when they were done, but DAMN! I kinda wish i bookmarked it now. And another one where a guy had widened a Z8; arent they rare as $#%?

What i have noticed though, is that apart from those that i bookmarked, Japanese people arent really that advanced with their websites. Most look like English-language sites circa 1995, when garish colours and flashing text were thought of as cool...

thats crazy.. one of those sites also show how to make headlight eye-lids (eye-lines)

[url]http://www.frp-zone.com/frp-eye-line-kit1.html[/url]

:) thanks ;D

If you want to practice your metal working skills, then flip and pull your stock fenders, flange them, and smooth them out.. that way you have metal fender flares, and can claim to still be using the original sheet metal. viplife had some pics and a write-up in english on this technique as was done on his Q. If you want to take an easier approach though, just mold on some fiberglass flares... look around at some of those places that sell cheap knock-off body kits (like on ebay), or in mags for domestic muscle cars (most notably either mustangs or camaros) for fiberglass flares, and just trim them to fit your particular car and mold them in place.. definitely don't forget to figure out what wheel you will run with the flares as you work on them... or it's even best to have them on hand already for test-fitting as you work... again, as was done with viplife's Q

How far can you flare the stock fenders? I would have thought the metal would tear?

metal can stretch a bit... flipping out your fenders can probably give you up to at least another 1.5" to 2" of flare depending on the car (some have thicker sheetmetal than others)...

Where is this instruction by VIPlife?

Here are some pictures of the front fenders on the car. I will stretch and pull the metal fenders to accomidate the 18x12" wheel. Notice the unique shape of the HG50's fenders.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_01.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_02.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_03.jpg[/img]

Before I can modify the fenders, I need to remove all the plastic coverings in the inner fender well. Here are some pictures of the plastic lining removed.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_04.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_05.jpg[/img]

Next I will use channel locks to pull the underside of the fender out. This does several things. First it creates more clearance than if I had simply rolled it up against itself. Secondly it will extend the fender and cause it to appear longer/lower. With a lower fender the car will look lower as the wheel will go up into the fender sooner. Below are three pictures. The first one is the initial rolling out of the fender. The second is after pulling a little more on it, and finally a picture with my hand for size reference.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_06.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_07.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_08.jpg[/img]

Now I will use hammer and dolly to smooth out the fender a bit before I try to stretch it out. Most of the work is hammering the outter lip of the fender outwards. At this point, since I have folded out the under fender, the fender doesn't want to hold the shape of its arch. In order to have the metal remember its new shape, I will need to beat on it more. I will do this over time. We are just going for a rough so we can get the wheels on the car and take more measurements.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_09.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_10.jpg[/img]

I've taken the fender roller out and will use it to stretch the fender. This must be done very carefully. The fender roller will want to pull the entire fender outwards. As the lip of the fender >will< stretch, the rest of the fender will distort. The best thing I could do is to push with one hand back against the roller.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_11.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_12.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_13.jpg[/img]

Here are some pictures after rolling the fender. You can compare them to the previous pictures to see how much the roller stretched them out.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_14.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_15.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_16.jpg[/img]

In order to get the crease lines out of the fender I used the hammer and dolly to smooth the fender out. This will be enough for the wheel to clear the fender. I'll stop here and install the suspension and wheels to verify there is enough fender clearance.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_17.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_18.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_19.jpg[/img]

I debated for a long time whether to go with a coilover setup or air suspension. Ultimately the decision came down to being as low as possible. Since I will be getting a body kit the only way that I would be able to have the car as low as possible and actually be able to drive it around is to do air. I wouldn't be able to get up my driveway with a really tall body kit and the coilovers cranked down low. I knew that I wouldn't be able to simply cut the springs and mock up an air setup. I decided that I would need to get a set of coilovers to reach my goal.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_20.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_21.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_22.jpg[/img]

Here is the suspension installed on the car. I also beat the fender edge a bit more. I was getting paranoid that the wheel just might not fit under the fender.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_23.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_24.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_25.jpg[/img]

And finally, it's done! The fender is clear enough to accomidate the wheel. Now to finish the other fenders and get the car rolling to determine how much camber needs to be added, and if there are any clearance issues. Once all that is sorted out, I will be able to mock up clearance for the kit and air suspension. Enjoy.

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_26.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_27.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/temp/hg50_part01_28.jpg[/img]

Awesome writeup! That should look awesome once its painted/smoothed over. Did you do the rears the same way?

wow! thanks soo much. thats awsome! all i need now is a fender roller. what are you going to do about the edge of the fender? could you just weld some more metal to fold up under so you would have a softer edge? do you have some pics of your whole car after the fender rolling?

i thought it would be cool to do a quick write up, so i did this all in a matter of about 30 minutes.

you actually dont need a fender roller.  it really didnt help.  i could accomplish the same, and better with just the hammer and dolly. the front right fender was the only one i used the roller on.

you can add some glass to the fender to make a beveled edge or simply weld on some metal.  it's all up to the artist.

the rear wasn't as simple as the fronts since i've got such a huge wheel and lots of tire back there.

If anyone watched the last episode of american chopper, you could see a simple technique to fabricate a welded-on metal fender flare too... i think with any flare, the trick is adding a little flange to the lip so that it has some resemblance to an oem piece.. otherwise the flare just ends in a sharp edge and looks tacky. viplife's flares have flanges hammered into them

so ive decited to go this way with my fenders. its a new quarter at school (im going to school for paint/body) and i have plenty of time to get 'er done. but i definitly have to wait for a string of sunny days because i wont be able to seal it the same day and i dont want any dust.
[url]http://www.bpsizumi.jp/page4.html[/url]
does anyone else have any more links of pics of fender fabrication.

[quote=shawnthemonster ]
so ive decited to go this way with my fenders. its a new quarter at school (im going to school for paint/body) and i have plenty of time to get 'er done. but i definitly have to wait for a string of sunny days because i wont be able to seal it the same day and i dont want any dust.
[url]http://www.bpsizumi.jp/page4.html[/url]
does anyone else have any more links of pics of fender fabrication.
[/quote]

best of luck!  let us know how it turns out. :)

[quote=uncle_el ]


best of luck! let us know how it turns out. :)
[/quote]
i will take pics as i do it

A site, just shows pics of doing some work on a Noah.

[url]http://homepage3.nifty.com/noahsession/remake.htm[/url]
Top Page
[url]http://homepage3.nifty.com/noahsession/honbuyakuin.htm[/url]

thats interesting what they did. they took a peice of metal and adhered it to the wheel well. then they lowered the van all the way until the stock fender started touching bent the metal around the wheel, then shaped the fender around the metal that was stuckon there (i think this is what they did).

hey mike where you been?

viplife....any current pics????

current[er]... fenders smoothed out in final shape, before i changed wheels again...

[img]http://www.buckaloose.com/victrix/08.jpg[/img]

The car looks wonderful, it turn out really really nice cant wait to see it with the new wheels

Jake
NA Dreams

VIP life...nice car u have!!!Can show ur car more pic??

wow.......... :o that write-up was awesome.

holy crap that's some great body work you got there! 

Ur rims is damn big...wat size ur tyre?? ???

[quote=David-VIP ]
Ur rims is damn big...wat size ur tyre?? ???
[/quote]

I think he said 18x12 what I want to know is where can i get some of those rims!@@ Lookig good,

[url]http://www.alpine-usa.com/news/events/demo_cars/05_x5/05bmwx5_install_8.htm[/url]

wow nice link ! So much work went into that BMW.

I know this is old.. but anyone else with new pics or links on rolling fender?

I just reread everything on this thread, and translated all the links provided...and Im going to bump this thread up. :smitten:

Next up cutting.

[quote=MS9 ]
[url]http://www.alpine-usa.com/news/events/demo_cars/05_x5/05bmwx5_install_8.htm[/url]
[/quote]

Anyone know if there is a way to easily make this into PDF format so it could be saved and read through as a book on the comp?

Does anybody know what they used to cut the fenders in sections?
I have an angle grinder with a metal cutting tool and was wondering if this will work or will a sawzall do better.?
[img]http://www.bpc.co.jp/sl-002.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.bpc.co.jp/sl-001.JPG[/img]

i suggest a die grinder with a cutting wheel

[img]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/52800-52899/52847.gif[/img]

I dont have an air compressor at home :(

The inner fender of the LS is thick :o 

c'mon man if your trying to do a mod like that, youre going to need a compressor. you can get a good 60gal craftsman for $400 an it'll last. other than a sawzall or a torch, a $15 die grinder with a compressor will do the job

[quote=OnTop ]
c'mon man if your trying to do a mod like that, youre going to need a compressor. 
[/quote]

Totally agreed!! Atleast have some basic tools around the house; hand tools, jack and stands, air compressor. Trust me, it comes in handy..

those scratches on the paint are from a cutoff wheel from a die grinder. it spins so fast that sometime it will ''jump'' out of the cut you are making. and it will bounce on the surface. this leaves little ''dashes'' forming a circle when it bounces off the suface. to get an idea of how a die grinder handles, try holding a rabid cat by its neck and tail whiel dunking the head in water. -never did that but from what i hear, the experience is similar.

Ive got the handtools and jack stands covered...but the air compressor :-\

[quote=OnTop ]
 to get an idea of how a die grinder handles, try holding a rabid cat by its neck and tail whiel dunking the head in water. -never did that but from what i hear, the experience is similar.
[/quote]

Damn LOL thats just about right!  ;D

[quote=PagongLS ]
Ive got the handtools and jack stands covered...but the air compressor :-\


[/quote]

well i know you are serious about doing something to that LS but put it this way:
 before air compressor
  my car was nothing but a lip kit, wheels and a drop
after air compressor
 well, custom this custom that

I know...i know :-*

Talking about air compressors...will i need a separate fuse box for it or can I just plug that in on any regular outlet I have in my garage?

it depends on what the compressor requires. most are 220 volt which is what most home garages are. the one i have is a 220v to a 220v outlet and it trips the breakers sometime. first check your home then shop for one

another thing to look out 4 in a compressor is the noise..

some of those oiless and direct drive air compressors are ridiculously loud.

the belt driven types seem to be the quietest 

[quote=MS9 ]
another thing to look out 4 in a compressor is the noise..

some of those oiless and direct drive air compressors are ridiculously loud.

the belt driven types seem to be the quietest 


[/quote]belt driven also tends to last a lot longer the piston driven and requires less attention....as long as you do regular check up/tune ups on it.

[quote=OnTop ]
it depends on what the compressor requires. most are 220 volt which is what most home garages are. the one i have is a 220v to a 220v outlet and it trips the breakers sometime. first check your home then shop for one
[/quote]also some housing areas arent zoned for 220v...where im at we only get the standard 110v like in the house....before you try to modify your box, make sure you can even have that...also ull notice the electric bill jump when you switch that puppy on.and your neighbors will know when you turn on your 220v compressor when all there electric appliances blink when you flip it on... :)

this is the exact one i have

[url]http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00919541000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_SessionID=@@@@1586647409.1151352959@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccikaddidmhfjhicegecegjdghldfoo.0[/url]

really good for a home garage. its not loud compared to my otherone at my other house. for a while i painted cars with it too. there was this one show my club was getting ready for and 7 of us decided to paint our cars 1 month before the show. at my hobby shop we used the hell out of the compressor and it never failed.

ohh i also got it on sale for $300. often sears will have display models for really cheap.
GET A COMPRESSOR PAGONG, a GOOD ONE and [url]http://www.harbourfreight.com/[/url] will be your best friend

[url]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf[/url]

that Craftsman air compressor OnTop has is a real nice one to get..

i was gunna get that exact same one but i came across a used speedair for sale locally (on craigslist) at a price i couldn't refuse.. .. 

whats a good one for painting? i need more cfm's than that one....

that craftsman should be more than enough for a HVLP gun and even those old school guns that run on high pressure.. it really is a badaz compressor for its price.

my speedair rates less than that compressor and even my compressor keeps up with HVLP and LVHP. 

my compressor will run continues if you wanted to paint a whole car.. and just the air supply in the tank could be used to paint a door.

[quote=shawnthemonster ]
whats a good one for painting? i need more cfm's than that one....
[/quote]

really!? hmmmmm. thats not a bad deal then. i was looking @ compressors that were 800 and up. 

[quote=RASRX7 ]
belt driven also tends to last a lot longer the piston driven and requires less attention....
[/quote]

Totally agreed!! If you are going to be using the compressor alot, I recomed getting any dual stage 220v belt driven compressor. The electric bill will be cheaper as air pressure will be made from the piston in the up and down stroke, if I am not mistaken, compared to just in the up stroke for single stage. Also get one with a big tank so it can hold more air so it will cylcle less. I personally use a snap on one  for the garage. I am constantly in there with cars to work on so it was a good investment for me. Pricy but worth it.

check out the 1st three....its some great examples of fabricating flares 
[url]http://bwyama.s3.mbrn.jp/work-room.htm[/url]

[QUOTE=OnTop;15141]this is the exact one i have

[url]http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00919541000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_SessionID=@@@@1586647409.1151352959@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccikaddidmhfjhicegecegjdghldfoo.0[/url]

really good for a home garage. its not loud compared to my otherone at my other house. for a while i painted cars with it too. there was this one show my club was getting ready for and 7 of us decided to paint our cars 1 month before the show. at my hobby shop we used the hell out of the compressor and it never failed.

ohh i also got it on sale for $300. often sears will have display models for really cheap.
GET A COMPRESSOR PAGONG, a GOOD ONE and [url]http://www.harbourfreight.com/[/url] will be your best friend

[url]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf[/url][/QUOTE]

ontop
what craftsman compressor was that again?