Free-Air Subwoofers?

So i've been looking into subs and boxes, but ive decided to do my whole trunk setup myself. im thinking about not having a sub box for the subs im going to purchase. im trying to display it in a different way, which requires a free air sub. im trying to see what you guys think about free air subs. if i dont get enough positive feedback ima have to go with another direction in my trunk design.

free air or infinite baffle? free air means it will play out in the open, infintie baffle requires the front of the wooofer to be sealed off from the rear. free air is meh, ib is great if it meets your requirments. ib is usually rear deck or pass through mounted and requires a good amount of work reinforcing for rigidity and sealing air tight (all holes, seams, etc). running an ib suitable sub, that is not marketed for ib, will cut the power handling in about half. a properly executed setup will have a very flat frequency response and good low end extension. it will not be a high output setup. the rule of thumb is bigger is better, use the largest diameter sub you can fit.

Thinking on replacing the rear Bose SUbs for some jl audio ones. 
What u think OG

only jl subs that did good in that scenario are the old school ib series, unless something new has came out (been slackin on audio lately). but like i said, you can get more speaker for less if you look in the right places (not big box or even most mom & pops).

[SIZE=1]I'm running a 15" Hertz Hi-Energy sub in a infinite baffle setup in my 1GS. I just had to remove the Air-purifier and open up the stock mounting hole for the oem 12" sub, then[/SIZE][SIZE=1]sealed all the holes etc with quality automotive [/SIZE][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1] polyurethane adhesive/sealant and bitumen sheets over metal surfaces to stiffen up the rear deck / trunk walls. Then I bolted and sealed a 18mm hard wood "base" plate on the rear deck on to which I bolted/sealed a 3piece(solid after mounting) 25mm mdf baffle for the sub to mount to, and on top of that came a 15mm upper piece t[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]hat was wrapped in enclosure fabric and screwed in place. Now the rear deck is totally solid, and the subs sounds very good. Only thing left to do is upgrading my sub amp 'cause the one I'm running at the mo doesn't ha[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]ve enough output for the sub. I'm contemplatin[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]g getting a big ass Audison mono block or something similar...
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Here's the subs details:
[URL]http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_hx380d.pdf[/URL]

Damn good job. Don't think y33 owners can fit anything like that cause of the fuel tank in the truck. Lame design

[QUOTE=Juzzo;460379][SIZE=1]I'm running a 15" Hertz Hi-Energy sub in a infinite baffle setup in my 1GS. I just had to remove the Air-purifier and open up the stock mounting hole for the oem 12" sub, then[/SIZE][SIZE=1]sealed all the holes etc with quality automotive [/SIZE][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1] polyurethane adhesive/sealant and bitumen sheets over metal surfaces to stiffen up the rear deck / trunk walls. Then I bolted and sealed a 18mm hard wood "base" plate on the rear deck on to which I bolted/sealed a 3piece(solid after mounting) 25mm mdf baffle for the sub to mount to, and on top of that came a 15mm upper piece t[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]hat was wrapped in enclosure fabric and screwed in place. Now the rear deck is totally solid, and the subs sounds very good. Only thing left to do is upgrading my sub amp 'cause the one I'm running at the mo doesn't ha[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]ve enough output for the sub. I'm contemplatin[/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]g getting a big ass Audison mono block or something similar...
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Here's the subs details:
[URL]http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_hx380d.pdf[/URL][/QUOTE]

i think you could do much better with another speaker. the sub you have chosen has a high fs (resonant frequancy), low qts (damping strength of motor), small xmax (excursion), and low vas (air space requirement). it's not automatic but these are the specs considered important when choosing a sub for ib and yours specs out pretty bad. throwing a lot of power at it willl probaly just cook it (700w/2 =  350w), the weak output you are getting is a result of the sub, or rather the sub and how it's being applied.

So your advice would be to change over to a different sub, or build an enclosure under the rear deck to get the most outta this sub?

[QUOTE=nachoY33/S14_love;460389]Damn good job. Don't think y33 owners can fit anything like that cause of the fuel tank in the truck. Lame design[/QUOTE] first gs has it's gas tank in the same location as the y33.  if the sub isn't too deep it'll work.

either are legitimate options. let me also stress that this is not 100%. there are some known ib performers that don't look good on paper (image dynamics for example). another thing is you need to completely seal off the cabin from the trunk. meaning the rear deck as well as any holes on the panel behind the seat. what you are effectively doing is turning the trunk into a box. if you have already gone through the trouble to seal it i would probably changed the sub. if not it could go either way, depending on which sound charateristics you prefer.

[QUOTE=autofashionELROY;460407]first gs has it's gas tank in the same location as the y33.  if the sub isn't too deep it'll work.[/QUOTE]

correct me if i'm wrong, couldn't you just reverse mount and have the motor in the cabin?

you could do that, but there are a lot of solid low pro ib capable subs. when it comes to ib, size and xmax come before power handling anyway.

im amazed to see a well informed IB discussion here.  please, keep going.

There is a lot of knowledge running here I want to get a sub for my car too. I always wondered what you want to get