how to get front negative camber for m35?

got a 06 m35.
the only front camber kits i seen are mainly for camber correction. most like +/-2 degrees camber
[url]http://www.ichibausa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=NS%2D20055F[/url]

is there any other things i can change to get more negative camber?

so hard to find parts for my car. the only one i found were these megan ones
[url]http://www.meganracing.com/product.asp?prodid=850&catid=26[/url]

and this also says its for correction. 
can somebody help me find for my car?
g35/350z parts are compatible with m35's

those upper a arms should be plenty.   how much camber are you trying to dial in exactly?

[QUOTE=evilchargerfan;466585]those upper a arms should be plenty.   how much camber are you trying to dial in exactly?[/QUOTE]

whatever to fit my wheels. but i don't think that's enough though?
[IMG]http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a159/ervin_r56/photo-3.jpg[/IMG]

most fuca are going to be +/- range unless you go to specialty japanese brands.

*hint - those ichiba fuca are actually just rebadged spc. save yourself some cash if you decide to make that move.

what is being referred to as "roll center adjusters" in this thread are actually camber adapters. the 2 are similar in design on lexus platforms (offset roll center adjusters), but on nissan platforms long shank ball joints are used. they will not add camber. those megans will actually do absolutely nothing because the base is raised arther than the shank being extended, leaving the pivot in the same place and only spacing the arm down.

for interchangability you'll be wanting g37 parts, which still aren't very common.

[QUOTE=OGcima;466638]Doesn't look there is any camber there....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

there is no camber in there. i was replying to the question "how much camber are you trying to dial in exactly?" i posted a picture because he said the upper arms would be enough then i said i dont think theres enough.

[QUOTE=OG;466656]most fuca are going to be +/- range unless you go to specialty japanese brands.

*hint - those ichiba fuca are actually just rebadged spc. save yourself some cash if you decide to make that move.

what is being referred to as "roll center adjusters" in this thread are actually camber adapters. the 2 are similar in design on lexus platforms (offset roll center adjusters), but on nissan platforms long shank ball joints are used. they will not add camber. those megans will actually do absolutely nothing because the base is raised arther than the shank being extended, leaving the pivot in the same place and only spacing the arm down.

for interchangability you'll be wanting g37 parts, which still aren't very common.[/QUOTE]

damn i guess you gave me the answer i was looking for... ill just sell my wheels already haha nah

custom.  also, ming, a vendor on here, has front camber on his demo car.

edit: contact Fizz Autosports for ming

[QUOTE=BAHC;466678]custom.  also, ming, a vendor on here, has front camber on his demo car.

edit: contact Fizz Autosports for ming[/QUOTE]


any luck sourcing camber arms?

[COLOR=#282828][FONT=Georgia]You're actually right, the toe arm will stop you scrubbing the tyres out at really low ride heights; as the suspension compresses; the toe arm straightens. Factory arms often don't have enough adjustment to cope with extreme lowering.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#282828][FONT=Georgia]Instead of pointing slightly down, effectively becomes longer as it becomes parallel. This pushes the back edge of the tyre out; increasing toe. This basically forces the tyre to scrub across the road surface at an angle.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#282828][FONT=Georgia]Adjustable upper arms are available; as are eccentric bush kits for the upper arms, to push the top of the wheel out; reducing negative camber.[/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#282828][FONT=Georgia]If you could get enough adjustment; I'd be inclined to use eccentric bushes rather than aftermarket arms, as most are fitted with pillowball joints or rod end style joints, these transfer a lot of NVH into the car, whereas urethane bushings are much better at damping vibration. Of course if you can get hold of well made rubber bushed arms; go for it.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=Georgia]Also pillowball style joints can wear quite badly in street driven cars unless very well weather sealed and greased regularly. The ones fitted to the cheaper arms are sometimes of poor quality and wear very quickly. [/FONT][/COLOR]

[COLOR=#282828][FONT=Georgia]The other thing to remember is that depending on your ride height; it may not even be necessary to use camber correction equipment. [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=Georgia]I'm running hub centre to arch measurements of 360mm front and 350mm rear; not especially low, but low enough, and I have 1deg neg camber all round. [/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#282828][FONT=Georgia]Between 1 to 1.5 deg neg is optimum for a street car anyway.

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