Thread #3887
For all the black Vips, care to share some tips on bringing the shine back. Im thinking of using the Mothers Clay Bar. What kind of wax do you guys prefer.
Mothers clay bar works pretty damn nice. I was impressed. For wax, I use Meguiars usually because it's pretty damn good for the price. Mothers has good products too. If you have no budget for wax, I suggest Zymol Royale Glaze :)
cool! Thanks. I saw allot of Meguiars. I think thats the product im gonna go for. Do you recomend using a buffer or just doing it by hand?
If you know how to use a buffer it will go a lot faster, that's for sure
I do it by hand, but truthfully either will work fine. Just more time consuming by hand.
a machine finish will always be better, BUT you always run the risk of burning your paint. :( I would suggest having the car professionally waxed and machine buffed and then maintain the finish yourself....by hand.
In my many many years detailing, I havn't found one company that does a better and longer lasting job than 3M products. Unless it's just for that show day glaze. Meguires is best for looking great 1 day at a time, doesn't last though.
I tried using mothers clay bar and it left a slight haze on the paint...but for actual waxing I do a 3 step process...Meguiras Scratch X to get rid of all the fine scratches that appear from washing and drying your car, then it's Meguars Cleaner wax and then it's Meguiars polishing wax. Works great...but I have also heard that 3M is the best.
The clay bar is meant to clean the paint, removing fallout, pollen, etc. It really dosn't do anything to help the shine. I would start with a thorough wash, and while the car is still wet I'll make a new bucket of soapy water and re-soap small areas of the car and clay them. Dry the car completely; now you're ready to go at it with the buffer. I use a Porter Cable random-orbit buffer with an Adam's foam pad because it won't burn the paint or leave swirl marks. Go over the car once or twice with a good polish (to bring up the shine) and then I go over it again with a good carnuba-based wax. I use Adam's Revive Polish followed by Buttery Wax... it works great and smells good to! Adam has some great detailing tips on his site- check out the videos. [url]www.adamspolishes.com[/url]
SoCalSC4;51666 wrote:The clay bar is meant to clean the paint, removing fallout, pollen, etc. It really dosn't do anything to help the shine.
I would start with a thorough wash, and while the car is still wet I'll make a new bucket of soapy water and re-soap small areas of the car and clay them. Dry the car completely; now you're ready to go at it with the buffer.
I use a Porter Cable random-orbit buffer with an Adam's foam pad because it won't burn the paint or leave swirl marks. Go over the car once or twice with a good polish (to bring up the shine) and then I go over it again with a good carnuba-based wax.
I use Adam's Revive Polish followed by Buttery Wax... it works great and smells good to! Adam has some great detailing tips on his site- check out the videos.
www.adamspolishes.com
[QUOTE=SoCalSC4;51666]The clay bar is meant to clean the paint, removing fallout, pollen, etc. It really dosn't do anything to help the shine. I would start with a thorough wash, and while the car is still wet I'll make a new bucket of soapy water and re-soap small areas of the car and clay them. Dry the car completely; now you're ready to go at it with the buffer. I use a Porter Cable random-orbit buffer with an Adam's foam pad because it won't burn the paint or leave swirl marks. Go over the car once or twice with a good polish (to bring up the shine) and then I go over it again with a good carnuba-based wax. I use Adam's Revive Polish followed by Buttery Wax... it works great and smells good to! Adam has some great detailing tips on his site- check out the videos. [url]www.adamspolishes.com[/url][/QUOTE] I like this guys idea, but dont try that crapy turtle wax liquid clay bar crap thinking it will make it easier. I have just finally used it and it sucks. I dont know tell me if I must have done something wrong but I never seen this happen before, after 2 days and a small amount of rain all those spidery swirls came right back and became even more noticable.....?????
dawg, i got a w210 mercedes and my wife always wants that sucker clean. Here's the secret to keeping the black shinny, dont drive it after the wax. :) lmao. I used to run my own detailing business so here's what you need: 1. a lot of time set aside 2. Meguiar's Gold Class Car wash soap 3.Turtle wax bug and tar romover 4. Zymol Cleaner wax 5. Armor all Extreme tire shine Wash the car spray bug and tar remover on the headlights and taillights Dry off the car with Light wet wax sponge apply the Zymol wax Use a soft detail cloth to take it off one area at a time apply one are at a time to reduce more work on the wax Final touches: window cleaner apply armor all extreme tire shine Interior cleaner Complete
I had very nice results with Turtle Wax ICE synthetic wax. Nice thing is that you can put it on plastics and it won't haze. Also, very easy to apply
I've been detailing for a while too and I usually buy my stuff from George at Detailed Image. I've done the whole 7-step process he suggests and the results were amazing, my car isn't black however, but I'm sure it would be the same. He did a huge write-up over on the BMW forum. Not sure if it's kosher to link other forums but mods feel free to delete it: [url]http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=274836[/url] You can check this out too. He goes over every step: [url]http://www.detailedimage.com/store/howtos.php[/url] *I have no affiliation with Detailed Image* :)
zyino works great on black. You cant buy it in stores though
Meguiars NXT Tech wax!!!!
[url]www.autopia.org[/url] that will answer every single question about detailing that u can imagine!
SoCalSC4;51666 wrote:The clay bar is meant to clean the paint, removing fallout, pollen, etc. It really dosn't do anything to help the shine.
I would start with a thorough wash, and while the car is still wet I'll make a new bucket of soapy water and re-soap small areas of the car and clay them. Dry the car completely; now you're ready to go at it with the buffer.
I use a Porter Cable random-orbit buffer with an Adam's foam pad because it won't burn the paint or leave swirl marks. Go over the car once or twice with a good polish (to bring up the shine) and then I go over it again with a good carnuba-based wax.
I use Adam's Revive Polish followed by Buttery Wax... it works great and smells good to! Adam has some great detailing tips on his site- check out the videos.
www.adamspolishes.com
[QUOTE=SoCalSC4;51666]The clay bar is meant to clean the paint, removing fallout, pollen, etc. It really dosn't do anything to help the shine. I would start with a thorough wash, and while the car is still wet I'll make a new bucket of soapy water and re-soap small areas of the car and clay them. Dry the car completely; now you're ready to go at it with the buffer. I use a Porter Cable random-orbit buffer with an Adam's foam pad because it won't burn the paint or leave swirl marks. Go over the car once or twice with a good polish (to bring up the shine) and then I go over it again with a good carnuba-based wax. I use Adam's Revive Polish followed by Buttery Wax... it works great and smells good to! Adam has some great detailing tips on his site- check out the videos. [url]www.adamspolishes.com[/url][/QUOTE] Just like him, but I change out the sponge pad for a polishing pad after. 10x's more shine.
elpresidente;51856 wrote:Just like him, but I change out the sponge pad for a polishing pad after. 10x's more shine.
[QUOTE=elpresidente;51856]Just like him, but I change out the sponge pad for a polishing pad after. 10x's more shine.[/QUOTE] Yeah, Adam's offers various pads- the white/black pad (reversible) is best for final polishing, the orange/green pad is more aggressive. I PC (Porter Cable) my car about every other week, so the black & white pads are usually all that is needed (with the Buttery Wax). That's the best advice for keeping your car looking great; once you get it looking good, keep after it!
[b]EDU: Detailing guide and how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less[/b] First, I'll tell you how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less. This does not include any polishing so this method won't correct any defects. However, if your car is in good condition already or you just want it clean and protected, this method is excellent. Products you will need: 2 gallon capacity bucket 1 wash pad, I like to use chenille covered foam pads 4-5 16" x 16" microfiber towels 2-3 terry cloth or cotton towels Wheel brush(s) Tire protectant Glass Cleaner Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine: [url]http://www.ecocarcare.net/no-rinse-wash-shine.php[/url] Optimum Car Wax: [url]http://www.ecocarcare.net/car-wax.php[/url] Steps: 1. Using a capful or approximately one half ounce of Optimum No Rinse (ONR), add it to one gallon of water in the bucket. 2. Clean your wheels, tires and fenderwells using the ONR mixture and your brushes, wipe dry with the terry cloth towels. 3. Dress the wheels and fenderwells with your tire dressing-and don't forget the fenderwells! Dirty fenderwells detract from an otherwise clean and shiny car! [img]http://autopia.org/gallery/data/500/2005_Cadillac_Escalade_AJ_wheelwell1.jpg[/img] The reason to do the wheels and fenderwells first is so when you apply the tire dressing, any overspray will be washed off the car during the washing step. 4. Empty out your bucket and refill with clean water, adding one half to one full ounce of ONR (less if relatively clean, more if really dirty). 5. Using a chenille covered foam pad or a wash mitt, wash one section of the car at a time and dry immediately using two microfiber towels, one for the first drying pass and making sure you leave a little moisture behind, use the other towel for a second drying pass. If you get the panel completely dry with the first towel, then don't go over it with the second towel because rubbing even a soft microfiber towel on dry paint can leave streaks. Once you get the process down (it may take a couple washes to really nail it) you should be able to wash the body of your car in 20 minutes or less unless it is really filthy. 6. After washing open your doors, gas cap door and trunk or hatch and wipe down all the jambs. 7. Using Optimum Car Wax (OCW), spray onto a section at a time. Don't soak the panel, just a mist should do. Spread the wax over the panel, flip the towel and wipe to a haze free shine. If you can use a detail spray, you can use OCW, it is that easy. Depending on your area, wash habits, etc, you can expect 3-5 months durability. Honestly though, it is so easy to use you will probably use it every few washes. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to do the whole car. In fact, you can also apply it as you dry each section when washing with ONR to save even more time, or apply while washing and apply a second coat for even better protection with very little additional time spent. 8. Clean your glass inside and out. Stand back and admire your shiny car! Take pics and post them on OT! There are several vendors who carry Optimum products, the one I would recommend first is [url]www.exceldetail.com[/url] because he is an OT member and I believe we should support each other, plus he ships very fast, has excellent customer service, is an all around nice guy and he also carries a fine selection of microfiber towels, the rest of the Optimum product line as well as Clearkote, Poorboys, 4 Star, Propel buffing pads, etc. Another excellent vendor is [url]www.pakshak.com[/url] or the [url]www.ecocarcare.net[/url] site, autogeek, etc.
[b]Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide® HARD SUPPLIES[/b] - Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool - Bucket - Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally - Chenille covered foam pads, or wash mitts - Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles - Terrycloth towels (wiping/drying inteior, wheels, tires, door jambs) - Microfiber towels (washing, removing product) - Foam applicators (wax application) - California Car Duster - Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents) Optional for power buffing: -Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 (same buffer, 7336 has a larger counterweight so it runs a bit more smoothly). -An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse. [b]Detailing products[/b] I have listed products I have personally used. [b]No Rinse Washing[/b] Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine [b]Conventional Washing[/b] Optimum Car Wash Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash Mothers California Car Wash Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash Kit Carnauba Wash --honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. [b]Do not use dish soap!.[/b] It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint. [b]Drying[/b] Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse. [b]Wheel Cleaners[/b] Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct. [b]Clay Bars[/b] Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much. Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth. Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area. [b]Polishes and compounds[/b] My favorite polishes and compounds are: Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1) Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish Use by hand: Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section. By Porter Cable polisher Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects. Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad. [b]Final Polishes and Glazes[/b] You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing. Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!) Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong Klasse All in One Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna. [b]Waxes[/b] As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants. Clearkote Carnauba Moose Optimum Car Wax Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste Collinite 845 Insulator Wax P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too! Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba [b]Sealants[/b] Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use). Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket 4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5 Klasse Sealant Glaze Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant [b]Quick Detail Sprays[/b] You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look. Clearkote's Quikshine Poorboy's Spray and Gloss Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant Meguiars #34 Final Inspection Zaino Z-6 or Z-8 Wax Shop's Slick Stuff [b]Interior Cleaning Products[/b] I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed. Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though. [b]Interior Protectants[/b] Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping- Optimum Protectant Plus Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing Armor All Original Shine 303 Vinylex [b]Leather-[/b] Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner Tanner's Preserves Lexol Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!) [b]Miscellaneous[/b] Glass cleaners: Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner Stoners Invisible Glass Tire/fenderwell dressing: Armor All Original Shine Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing Optimum Tire Shine Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1) Trim dressing: Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel Poorboy's Trim Restorer Mothers Back to Black [b]Engine Cleaning[/b] 1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from. ** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. ** 2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story. 3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes. 4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side. 5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again. 6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel. 7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.
Zaino is the choice of the pros here in the midwest. It's a 5 step process, but thoutcome is unreal, almost glass like.
psychedelicbeats;52152 wrote:Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide®
HARD SUPPLIES
- Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool
- Bucket
- Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally
- Chenille covered foam pads, or wash mitts
- Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles
- Terrycloth towels (wiping/drying inteior, wheels, tires, door jambs)
- Microfiber towels (washing, removing product)
- Foam applicators (wax application)
- California Car Duster
- Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents)
Optional for power buffing:
-Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 (same buffer, 7336 has a larger counterweight so it runs a bit more smoothly).
-An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse.
Detailing products
I have listed products I have personally used.
No Rinse Washing
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine
Conventional Washing
Optimum Car Wash
Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash
Mothers California Car Wash
Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash
Kit Carnauba Wash
--honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. Do not use dish soap!. It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint.
Drying
Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse.
Wheel Cleaners
Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct.
Clay Bars
Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much.
Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth.
Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area.
Polishes and compounds
My favorite polishes and compounds are:
Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound
Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze
Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme
Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1)
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish
Use by hand:
Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section.
By Porter Cable polisher
Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects.
Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad.
Final Polishes and Glazes
You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing.
Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish
Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze
Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!)
Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba
Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong
Klasse All in One
Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna.
Waxes
As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants.
Clearkote Carnauba Moose
Optimum Car Wax
Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste
Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too!
Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications
Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba
Sealants
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use).
Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket
4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection
Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5
Klasse Sealant Glaze
Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant
Quick Detail Sprays
You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look.
Clearkote's Quikshine
Poorboy's Spray and Gloss
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant
Meguiars #34 Final Inspection
Zaino Z-6 or Z-8
Wax Shop's Slick Stuff
Interior Cleaning Products
I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed.
Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though.
Interior Protectants
Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping-
Optimum Protectant Plus
Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant
Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing
Armor All Original Shine
303
Vinylex
Leather-
Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner
Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
Tanner's Preserves
Lexol
Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!)
Miscellaneous
Glass cleaners:
Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner
Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner
Stoners Invisible Glass
Tire/fenderwell dressing:
Armor All Original Shine
Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
Optimum Tire Shine
Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1)
Trim dressing:
Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel
Poorboy's Trim Restorer
Mothers Back to Black
Engine Cleaning
1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from.
** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. **
2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story.
3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes.
4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side.
5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again.
6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel.
7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.
[QUOTE=psychedelicbeats;52152][b]Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide® HARD SUPPLIES[/b] - Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool - Bucket - Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally - Chenille covered foam pads, or wash mitts - Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles - Terrycloth towels (wiping/drying inteior, wheels, tires, door jambs) - Microfiber towels (washing, removing product) - Foam applicators (wax application) - California Car Duster - Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents) Optional for power buffing: -Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 (same buffer, 7336 has a larger counterweight so it runs a bit more smoothly). -An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse. [b]Detailing products[/b] I have listed products I have personally used. [b]No Rinse Washing[/b] Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine [b]Conventional Washing[/b] Optimum Car Wash Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash Mothers California Car Wash Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash Kit Carnauba Wash --honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. [b]Do not use dish soap!.[/b] It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint. [b]Drying[/b] Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse. [b]Wheel Cleaners[/b] Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct. [b]Clay Bars[/b] Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much. Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth. Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area. [b]Polishes and compounds[/b] My favorite polishes and compounds are: Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1) Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish Use by hand: Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section. By Porter Cable polisher Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects. Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad. [b]Final Polishes and Glazes[/b] You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing. Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!) Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong Klasse All in One Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna. [b]Waxes[/b] As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants. Clearkote Carnauba Moose Optimum Car Wax Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste Collinite 845 Insulator Wax P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too! Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba [b]Sealants[/b] Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use). Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket 4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5 Klasse Sealant Glaze Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant [b]Quick Detail Sprays[/b] You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look. Clearkote's Quikshine Poorboy's Spray and Gloss Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant Meguiars #34 Final Inspection Zaino Z-6 or Z-8 Wax Shop's Slick Stuff [b]Interior Cleaning Products[/b] I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed. Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though. [b]Interior Protectants[/b] Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping- Optimum Protectant Plus Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing Armor All Original Shine 303 Vinylex [b]Leather-[/b] Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner Tanner's Preserves Lexol Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!) [b]Miscellaneous[/b] Glass cleaners: Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner Stoners Invisible Glass Tire/fenderwell dressing: Armor All Original Shine Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing Optimum Tire Shine Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1) Trim dressing: Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel Poorboy's Trim Restorer Mothers Back to Black [b]Engine Cleaning[/b] 1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from. ** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. ** 2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story. 3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes. 4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side. 5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again. 6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel. 7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.[/QUOTE] This is quite useful. I'll try it and let you know how it turns out...usually how long does it take to clean everything? (want a gauge so I allot enough time)
These two are particularly good..or so I've seen. Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1) Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish
Zaino. there is no substitute.
I use Zymol Creme with HD Clense Pro before and a Sonus mild clay if required, brings that awesome wet look. To avoid swirls I use 2 bucket wash method with a lambswool mit and then sonus der wunder drying towels. You can get real geeky cleaning cars but it's worth it for the final finish.
I like the 3m products.
i use wetpaint glaze and im happy with the product super SHINE
PIMPALA-SS;56017 wrote:Zaino. there is no substitute.
[QUOTE=PIMPALA-SS;56017]Zaino. there is no substitute.[/QUOTE] This man speaks truth! Zaino FTW.
psychedelicbeats;52152 wrote:Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide®
HARD SUPPLIES
- Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool
- Bucket
- Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally
- Chenille covered foam pads, or wash mitts
- Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles
- Terrycloth towels (wiping/drying inteior, wheels, tires, door jambs)
- Microfiber towels (washing, removing product)
- Foam applicators (wax application)
- California Car Duster
- Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents)
Optional for power buffing:
-Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 (same buffer, 7336 has a larger counterweight so it runs a bit more smoothly).
-An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse.
Detailing products
I have listed products I have personally used.
No Rinse Washing
Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine
Conventional Washing
Optimum Car Wash
Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash
Mothers California Car Wash
Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash
Kit Carnauba Wash
--honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. Do not use dish soap!. It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint.
Drying
Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse.
Wheel Cleaners
Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct.
Clay Bars
Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much.
Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth.
Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area.
Polishes and compounds
My favorite polishes and compounds are:
Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound
Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze
Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme
Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1)
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish
Use by hand:
Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section.
By Porter Cable polisher
Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects.
Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad.
Final Polishes and Glazes
You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing.
Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish
Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze
Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!)
Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba
Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong
Klasse All in One
Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna.
Waxes
As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants.
Clearkote Carnauba Moose
Optimum Car Wax
Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste
Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste
Collinite 845 Insulator Wax
P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too!
Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications
Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba
Sealants
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use).
Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba
Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket
4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection
Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5
Klasse Sealant Glaze
Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant
Quick Detail Sprays
You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look.
Clearkote's Quikshine
Poorboy's Spray and Gloss
Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant
Meguiars #34 Final Inspection
Zaino Z-6 or Z-8
Wax Shop's Slick Stuff
Interior Cleaning Products
I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed.
Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though.
Interior Protectants
Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping-
Optimum Protectant Plus
Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant
Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing
Armor All Original Shine
303
Vinylex
Leather-
Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner
Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
Tanner's Preserves
Lexol
Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!)
Miscellaneous
Glass cleaners:
Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner
Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner
Stoners Invisible Glass
Tire/fenderwell dressing:
Armor All Original Shine
Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing
Optimum Tire Shine
Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1)
Trim dressing:
Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel
Poorboy's Trim Restorer
Mothers Back to Black
Engine Cleaning
1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from.
** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. **
2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story.
3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes.
4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side.
5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again.
6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel.
7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.
Fantastic write up , this is great [quote=psychedelicbeats;52152][B]Scottwax's Offical Comprehensive Detailing Guide®[/B] [B]HARD SUPPLIES[/B] - Wet/Dry Vacuum (>1.5 HP) w/ an assortment of nozzles and a thin crevice tool - Bucket - Spray nozzle-if washing conventionally - Chenille covered foam pads, or wash mitts - Wheel brush, thin brush for tight areas, interior brush w/ soft bristles - Terrycloth towels (wiping/drying inteior, wheels, tires, door jambs) - Microfiber towels (washing, removing product) - Foam applicators (wax application) - California Car Duster - Q-Tips (Cleaning Vents) Optional for power buffing: -Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 (same buffer, 7336 has a larger counterweight so it runs a bit more smoothly). -An assortment of 6.5" finishing, polishing and cutting pads. Polishing pads are your workhorse. [B]Detailing products[/B] I have listed products I have personally used. [B]No Rinse Washing[/B] Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine [B]Conventional Washing[/B] Optimum Car Wash Poorboys World Super Slick & Suds Concentrated Car Wash Mothers California Car Wash Meguiars Gold Class or NXT Car Wash Kit Carnauba Wash --honestly, any quality car wash soap should be fine. [B]Do not use dish soap!.[/B] It strips wax from your paint and dries out your rubber seals and trim. Regular use will also dry out your paint. [B]Drying[/B] Microfiber towels-waffle weaves for conventional washing, plush microfibers with Optimum No Rinse. [B]Wheel Cleaners[/B] Personally, I don't use wheel cleaners. I prefer to use either ONR or when washing conventionally, car wash soap. If you keep your wheels clean there should be no reason to have to use a wheel cleaner. Improper use (as in not following directions and apply to a hot wheel) or using the wrong wheel cleaner on your rims can damage them and require refinishing to correct. [B]Clay Bars[/B] Most of the clay bars now available are made by Clay Magic since they hold the original patent and sued the crap out of anyone who copied their clay-so really, the brand doesn't matter much. Clay bars removing imbedding grit, contamination, tree sap, paint overspray, etc from your paint. If you run your hand over your just washed paint and it has a gritty feel at all, you need to clay. This will pull all that gunk out of your paint leaving it glass smooth. Spray a quick detail product (usually clay kits include the spray) onto your paint (about a 2' x 2' section) and rub the clay bar using moderate pressure over the paint. When it glides effortlessly and quietly over your paint, wipe off the clay lube and move on to the next area. [B]Polishes and compounds[/B] My favorite polishes and compounds are: Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish and #80 Speed Glaze Clearkote Compound and Blue Moose Cutting Creme Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1) Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish Use by hand: Use a terry cloth towel, folded into 1/8ths size to form a thick pad and so you can apply even pressure. Use moderate pressure, enough to build up some warmth on the towel and work the product into the paint until it looks nearly clear and dry, then wipe off immediately. Refold the towel and move on to the next section. By Porter Cable polisher Using a polishing pad, apply a circle of product about 1" from the edge of the pad and for the first couple of areas, before turning on the PC, spread the product over a 1' x 1' area to prevent dry buffing. With the pad pressed lightly against the paint, turn on the PC and set it to '5' and spread the product over a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure. Kick the speed up to 6 and slow down your passes to about 1/2-1" per second with 50% overlapping passes, up/down, across, diagonally. Use enough pressure to lightly bog the PC and then back off just enough to pick the speed back up. Work the polish until it begins to clear or dry. Wipe off excess product, inspect your work, one or more additional applications may be needed with heavy defects. Always start with a medium grade polish and a polishing pad and step up the aggressiveness of the polish before moving up to a cutting pad. [B]Final Polishes and Glazes[/B] You will use these to further refine your finish or if the paint is in good condition and you just want to add more depth and pop to the finish prior to waxing. Optimum Polish with a finishing pad can be used as a final polish Clearkote's Vanilla Moose and Red Moose Machine Glaze Menzerna FPII or PO106FF (at $50 a quart!) Poorboy's Professional Polish or Polish with Carnauba Jeff's Werkstatt's Prime, Prime Carnauba or Prime Strong Klasse All in One Just a suggestion-You can mix in about 30% of Clearkote's Red Moose Machine Glaze into either Menzerna polish to cut down on dusting and add more depth to the super clear wet shine of Menzerna. [B]Waxes[/B] As a rule, waxes have a deeper, more liquid look than sealants, protect a little better against bird bombs but need to be reapplied more often than sealants. Clearkote Carnauba Moose Optimum Car Wax Poorboy's Natty's and Natty's Blue Paste Meguiars #16 (discontinued, you may be able to find a few vendors who still have it, still sold in the UK though), #26 in liquid or paste Collinite 845 Insulator Wax P21S or S100 Paste Wax-the S100 is essentially the same as P21S but widely available at Harley Davidson dealers and costs less too! Pinnacle Souveran-yeah it is $70 but amazing on black and red paint, good for 50+ applications Jeff's Werkstatt Carnauba Jett-spray carnauba [B]Sealants[/B] Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Jett and Acrylic Jett Trigger (Trigger is in spray for, extremely easy to use). Poorboy's EX-P and EX w/carnauba Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket 4 Star Ultimate Paint Protection Zaino Z2 Pro and Z5 Klasse Sealant Glaze Meguiars #20 Polymer Sealant, NXT High Tech Wax, or #21 Sealant [B]Quick Detail Sprays[/B] You can use these after washing to give you the 'just waxed' look. Clearkote's Quikshine Poorboy's Spray and Gloss Jeff's Werkstatt Acrylic Glos-meant to be used with the Werkstatt system, but should be fine over any sealant Meguiars #34 Final Inspection Zaino Z-6 or Z-8 Wax Shop's Slick Stuff [B]Interior Cleaning Products[/B] I use an 8:1 mixture of water and Woolite (the laundry soap version) in a spray bottle as my interior cleaner (8 parts water, 1 part Woolite). You can use it on leather, vinyl, carpet, fabric, etc. Spray, scrub with a small brush with nylon bristles as needed, wipe up and wet vac as needed. Meguiars and several other manufacturers have great all purpose cleaners that are safe for most interior surfaces but read the label first! I'd only recommened the water/Woolite mixture for leather though. [B]Interior Protectants[/B] Vinyl, rubber and weather stripping- Optimum Protectant Plus Meguiars #40, Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer, Natural Shine Vinyl & Rubber Protectant Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing Armor All Original Shine 303 Vinylex [B]Leather-[/B] Meguiars Gold Class Leather Conditioner Turtle Wax's Leather Cleaner and Conditioner Tanner's Preserves Lexol Leather Master's Leather Vital (it ain't cheap!) [B]Miscellaneous[/B] Glass cleaners: Meguiars NXT Glass Cleaner Eagle 20/20 Class Cleaner Stoners Invisible Glass Tire/fenderwell dressing: Armor All Original Shine Poorboy's Bold N Bright Tire Dressing Optimum Tire Shine Meguiars Hyper Dressing (can be cut with water up to 4:1) Trim dressing: Meguiars #38 Tire and Trim Gel Poorboy's Trim Restorer Mothers Back to Black [B]Engine Cleaning[/B] 1. Make sure engine is warm, but not hot. Cold engines are harder to remove grease and oil from. ** Check the directions on the engine cleaner/degreaser you are using, though. Some specifically say to clean the engine when cold only. ** 2. Cover your distributor (if you do not know what or where it is, get a manual for your car), alternator and fuse box. Most electronics under your hood are adequately sealed for rain water splashing up on them, but high pressure water is another story. 3. Spray Greased Lightning's Orange Blast (my preferred engine degreaser) liberally all over your engine and engine bay. Let it sit for about 5 minutes. If your engine is really dirty, then after the 5 minutes, spray it down again and wait an additional 5 minutes. 4. Spray the engine and engine bay with high pressure rinse water - but even though your distributor may be covered, still use lower pressure around it to be on the safe side. 5. Any remaining grime, spray again with Orange Blast, and use a stiff brush if needed. Rinse again. 6. Remove the plastic coverings and start the engine. Let it run until it is dry. You will have to dry the painted surfaces in the engine bay and the underside of the hood with a towel. 7. Dress any hoses, etc. you want with rubber/vinyl dressing.[/quote]
I find the "Engine" section of that post to be very useful! I think I'll go out and give it a try sometime this week.
zaino is a slight pain to put on n take off but its well worth it. i could safely say applying their multiple step waxing process adds value to any used car that hasnt been taken care of. [url]www.zainobros.com[/url] look at their pic gallery :thelaw: ftw! btw their process is something like 8 steps now lol they constantly develop new products. :biggthumpup: their clear seal and all in one polish are amazing. the clear seal adds a synthetic clear sealant to ANY non porous surface i.e.(chrome,glass,some plastics,paint,wheels) also someone said 3m and yes, they are probably the best store bought products you can get. i guess being in business for over a 100 years helps their r&d. lol
You guys should go black with a dupont satin clear like Mansory phantom style. Sweet black paintjob with no upkeep :biggthumpup:
The "what system is best?" question is a tricky one because everyone has their own system that works for them and that they think works best. It's a lot of trial and error, but eventually you find a combination of products and techniques that works for you. :shrug:
gamby;92654 wrote:It's a lot of trial and error, but eventually you find a combination of products and techniques that works for you. :shrug:Yea, I've been reading up on the Meguiar's forums to see what others have tried and I'm going to try the following out today and Thursday.
[quote=gamby;92654]It's a lot of trial and error, but eventually you find a combination of products and techniques that works for you. :shrug:[/quote]Yea, I've been reading up on the Meguiar's forums to see what others have tried and I'm going to try the following out today and Thursday. Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo and Conditioner Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit (Clay and Meguiar's Quick Detail Spray) Meguiar's Deep Crystal Step 1 Paint Cleaner Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax I'm going to be applying with a random orbital buffer and foam pads. I'll try to get soem before and after shots. My inspiration comes from this guy's thread. [URL]http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/thread/40548.aspx[/URL]
i get all my stuff from griot's garage. one thing i will reccomend for leather is leatherique. it's hands down THE SHIT. for paint polishing, black magic synthetic was rated #1 in consumer reports as for store bought products. personally, i use Swissol (Swissvax) when i'm serious about getting concours quality look. i start with the cleaner, wax with random orbital, then finish with Swissol shield to make it last. until i respray my car after the kit, i don't bother wastingthe Swissol.. but trust, it works.
i just do the 3 step meguairs stuff. i use the buffer if the paint is really bad. just do it by hand if its so-so.
some more tips.. you can always use a low speed random orbital if your worried about burning your paint. it really is difficult to build skill with a high speed buffer. but a low speed buffer will net the same results as hand polishing, just in a shorter amount of time. but if in the case you ever decide to use a high speed, be sure to clean the paint first. otherwise you'll be polishing in microabrasives and any other contaminents. after a two bucket wash, it's best to use a clay bar. alot of people fvck up when trying to clay bar, and they get pissed, frustrated, and lose motivation. a great tip for clay baring is to use a quick detail spray such as Mother's Showtime or the Meguiar's equivalent as a lubricant. you spray the area with one squirt, pull the clay across the moist area, then wipe the excess detail spray off with a microfiber towel before it dries. also, keep in mind that when using a clay bar, you should only be using a quarter of the total bar for the full car. and it's really only neccisary to clay bar appx twice a year. of course, there are eceptions depending on where you live. when it comes down to it, a full concours detail can be enjoyable if your not a super busy person. but don't ever forget that our cars are meant to be driven and enjoyed. i always give more props to a dirty car that looks good over some trailer queen show piece. it's like a girl who can roll out of bed without make up and still look beautiful, you feel me? :smiley:
it really depends on how bad your paint is...if there's a lot of water spots and minor suface scratches then i suggest this... use some type of cutting compound and a wool buffing pad buff car using a high-speed buffer at 2200-2600 rpm (dewalt is my personal favorite) go over car with a finishing compound and a foam pad...speed should be 1200-1500 rpm. *make sure the buffer is always flat or you'll have some pretty mean swirl marks then polish car...i use a soft foam pad with my D/A...100 times faster than hand and ensures the polish gets deep to ensure great shine... and don't forget to tape up all the areas where the buffing compound can get into...i.e. window trims, side moldings, etc.
gonna try zaino soon. heard water sheets off. which would be great w/ the weather we're having right now.
definitely spring out the money for a porter cable and some good polishes, if you can I'm still thuggin it out by hand with a regular wax applicator...but have had great results with NXT on my flamenco black pearl CL...paint is really deep and pops after 3 layers (also used on rim faces/lips): [IMG]http://aycu23.webshots.com/image/30342/2005031342839965879_rs.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://aycu18.webshots.com/image/30217/2005088447287374406_rs.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://aycu10.webshots.com/image/33729/2003487100060811583_rs.jpg[/IMG]
menappi;55830 wrote:These two are particularly good..or so I've seen.
Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1)
Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish
[QUOTE=menappi;55830]These two are particularly good..or so I've seen. Poorboy's SSR line (3, 2.5, 2, 1) Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish[/QUOTE] I`ve got the full Poorboy`s Lineup and it`s very good. pretty cheap also, and you can stand in the scorching sun using it, no need for shade. I bought all my detailing stuff from autogeek.net
fliplyricist1;103832 wrote:
[QUOTE=fliplyricist1;103832] [IMG]http://aycu23.webshots.com/image/30342/2005031342839965879_rs.jpg[/IMG] [/QUOTE] Your CL is gorgeous man. :biggthumpup: