Need done LS400 suspension and roll/shave advice

I just bought a set of TSW Snettertons for my UCF20. 


20x8.5 +25 225/35
20x10 +20 255/35


My stock springs were sagging, so I put on a set of Tanabe DF210 lowering springs, which I assumed would provide a pretty mild drop. I have the wheels on, and they fit pretty similar to what I expected. My rear fenders however are low enough and soft enough to hit the tire just by sitting in the car, and my fronts have a huge gap. Could they have mixed up front and rear?


I THINK what I want to do is buy a set of coilovers and roll the fenders.


COILOVERS:


I don't know the range of a typical coilover. Can a typical coilover run at stock height of one wanted to? I may consider having the coilovers at a height such that my wheels don't rub WITHOUT rolling the fenders? Is that feasible? I assume they'd go that high if I really wanted


A contact I trust at reputable shop here quoted be $1169 CANADIAN for Megan LP's. He spoke very poorly of the BC Racing coilovers, saying the were too stiff, and better suited for a car that was going to be tracked.


My other concern is that I winter the car (for now). You think winter driving is a no-no for coilovers?


ROLLING: 


My big issue here is that I had the fenders repaired, with at least a fair amount of Bondo on or very near the lip. I gather trying to roll with a phonebook or eastwood roller is a very bad idea. I assume a body shop would have to sand, roll, re-bondo, and re-paint the fender. I understand that cutting or shaving the fender is an option. People warn about how far into the lip a weld is located into the lip, and if i cut past it is could split, and I'd need to reweld (and paint) the fender anyways, or that the fender is more susceptible to cutting the tire or rusting.


What I want to do is turn around and buy the Megan LP's and pay a shop to properly repair and roll the fenders ASAP, but I want to do the car right (even though I cheaped on wheels :P), be patient and make the right call.


Does this plan seems good? I want a little opinion before I pull the trigger on what's gonna amount to more than a few pay cheques.

megan coils are made at the bc factory out of lower grade parts than the bc branded coilovers, sold at/near the same price. and ride significantly worse imo. "too stiff" shows that your shop is not familiar with this style of modification, as most people these days prefer to run spring rates significantly higher than off-the-shelf kits. most kits come with <15K springs, where as cats are frequently running 20K+. what works for you will depend on how you personally plan to use them. it sounds like you are going for a more conservative setup so you would probably be happy with an o-t-s kit, which should allow you to ride high enough to avoid fender work if that's what you want to do. the stiffness of the coilovers will allow you to ride lower without rubbing, and the adjustability will allow you to even out the wheel gap. front wheel arches are higher than the rear to allow turning during compression. the tanabe springs you have are well known for being too soft for the amount of drop they have.

as far as fender work i wouldn't worry about it if you plan to stay conservative. the suspension upgrade should take care of your issue.

Okay. I appreciate the feedback. I'm thinking about purchasing a set of the BC Racing coil overs, what would you consider a medium spring rate, between "I want to slam it" and "I want to daily it, even in the winter". I'd like to purchase coil overs sooner, and ride "high" for a bit, and then think about doing the fender work next summer.

BC racing gets my vote too. stiff is something you want as the car weights a lot! yes you can drive on coilovers in the winter as they are corrosion resistant (to a degree), not corrosion proof. they should last the same rate as your stock suspension components.

depending on how low you go will depend on your need to roll the fenders. also what tire brand matters as some brands run bigger than others. UCF20s have a hard time rolling and pulling the fenders as they are very thick from the factory. if you try and do a roll/pull the rears always buckle, dimple, and/or paint cracks. most folks, me included, just trim the fenders for clearance.