iVtecTypeS's 2004 Black/Saddle UL Build

Been a long time lurker since VSC was first initially opened. Couldn't remember my log-in so I created a new account. Wifey told me she was pregnant last year, so I needed a family car. There was no way to fit a car seat in the RSX, plus it was loud (fully built motor and running a buddy club spec2 off a race header), really low and stiff as hell.

 I've always wanted an LS430 but could never justify spending the money until last year. Spent weeks hunting for the perfect one, multiple wasted trips to LA and back to San Diego until one failed LA trip sent me to Lexus Carlsbad on the way home. Although black is my least favorite color, it had saddle interior, it was a UL, it was in immaculate condition, low millage and a great price. As much as I wanted Flint Mica, Black and saddle won me over.


This was my previous project which now collects dust in the garage...

A good friend of mine made a video of the car (this was one of his first few videos, he has significantly gotten better)
[URL="http://youtu.be/TptttEsqiAs"][video=youtube_share;TptttEsqiAs]http://youtu.be/TptttEsqiAs[/video][/URL]


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The new project


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Came up on 19x9 et21, 19x10 et31 Wed Bazreia's for $1500. Lips had some curb love and the chrome was slightly peeling on one face. I didn't mind much since I'm going to refinish them.


Rear fitment
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Front fitment 
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I felt 19's are too small on the LS unless I ride slammed. IMHO 20's are perfect and my friend had 20" barrels from some Orden's he had laying around so we did a mock fitment.


Same specs as the original 19" configuration but in 20x9 2.5" lip
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Rear 20x11 with 4.5" lip . Original lip size was 3" I would have gone with a 4.5" in the rear but that would put me in the single digit offset (et6) which is too aggressive for my taste. I want to retain as much of the stock body lines after pulling if needed. [URL="http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/841/6axv.jpg"][IMG]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/841/6axv.jpg[/IMG][/URL]


Sneak peak of the new finish.  
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Next was suspension. I needed to make a decision asap cause that will have to go on first before mounting the wheels. I was debating between ASC680L for now, or going straight to Coilovers then eventually either an Aircup system or UAS with accuair or AirRex :).


Decided to run the Data System as a temporary solution until I decide on what suspension route i'll take. Got the module from another member on clublexus.
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I was gonna fab something up where the 6 disc changer is but decided to put it here since this is only a temporary solution
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Rims were completed just needed to mount tires. My homie Ronnie (instagram: Wheelbuilt_Ronnie) did the rebuild on the Bazrieas. Good guy, great work, very reasonable prices and best of all he's located in SD for anyone local in need of a rebuild :thumbup:.


Fronts 20x9 2.5" lip
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Rears 20x11 3.5" lip
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Front fenders didn't need anywork to fit, the natural camber cleared the fender, I only needed to roll the rears to clear so I took the risk... I should have shaved but I was too scared to risk the structural integrity of the 1/4. There are only two places that dimpled slightly (10 o'clock and 1 o'clock position) but I'm anal to detail and it bugs the crap out of me. I'm going have them shaved completely flat and re in-force them by having them welded. Thats what I did when I cut the RSX rears. 


In my opinion, fitment is perfect no obnoxious camber or hellaflush stance (no offense to anyone, just not my style). Its flush and functional. I like having a symmetrical car and i'd like to have matching camber front and rear, so next on the to-do list is suspension arms and a youzealand ss pro kit. That probably means I would either have to dial in more neg camber in the fronts or slightly pull and add positive camber to the rears.

Wheel Specs: front 20x9 et21 235/35/20, Rear 20x11 et 31 245/35/20

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fitment is on point! i miss the days when this is what people went for. seems like the best route would be to get a little more camber up front and then add a small spacer. an ss kit will reduce the amount of camber at the same height.

color scheme on the ac was nice.

Black with saddle. You sir found a good platform.

[QUOTE=OG;511354]fitment is on point! i miss the days when this is what people went for. seems like the best route would be to get a little more camber up front and then add a small spacer. an ss kit will reduce the amount of camber at the same height.
color scheme on the ac was nice.[/QUOTE]
Ahh gotcha, I was under the impression the SS pro kit would add negative camber up front as well as re-centering the wheels. Will the rear blocks only lower the rear and not re-center the wheel? From research, traction arms is what I need to re-center the wheel right?

[QUOTE=Mr.Doback;511355]Black with saddle. You sir found a good platform.[/QUOTE]
Thank you sir


Incase anyone was wondering, the faces were plated black chrome. Its really hard to capture the color in photos.

As far as specs of the wheels after the re-barrel:

Fronts stayed the same just stepped to 20"... 20x9 et 21
Rears, I went wider and bigger lip... 20x11 et 18 (if i did the math correctly for the offset). 
Original lip size was 3" at et31, I increased it by .5" which is equal to 12.7mm (13mm if we round up). 31mm - 13mm = 18mm offset. Am I correct to assume the new offset on the rears are 18mm?

Hope this helps people. I know the frustration that can happen when picking the right size and offsets for fitment purposes. A lot of people are so secretive about their sizing cause they want to be one of a kind, or because they had to take the time to calculate the measurements and etc. But I feel the reason for joining a forum community is to help each other out. 

It took me months of browsing and researching fitment before I decided on the specs. After all that I was still worried that these would be too aggressive for what I was trying to achieve for a daily driver. I cant afford tires every month cause of crazy camber wear, or jeopardize the safety of my wife and son cause of a crazy tire stretch, let alone damaging the wheels cause of rubber band thin tires.

In the end it came out perfect :)

[QUOTE=iVtec Type-s;511359]Ahh gotcha, I was under the impression the SS pro kit would add negative camber up front as well as re-centering the wheels. Will the rear blocks only lower the rear and not re-center the wheel? From research, traction arms is what I need to re-center the wheel right?[/QUOTE]

what happens with the ss pro kit is it raises the spindle in relationship the flca creating a drop spindle affect. when you raise your ride height setting to return it to the current height the goemetry (camber) is actually corrected. this is the same thing as a roll center adjuster, it's just called something different for a different application. now if you install them and don't restore the current height then obviously there will be more camber, but you'll be an inch lower as well. the wheel centering (caster) is done by offsetting the spindle forward at the lbj.

the rear ss kit will not re-center the wheel. you are correct, you need traction arms for that.

great intro and build. lovely DC5 and the attention to detail follows with the LS. wheel fitment is superb!

One inch is 25.4 millimeters. If you originally had a 10.5" + 31 and then added a .5" to the outer lip, your new measurements would be 11" + 25. When you're just adding width to the outside the like that and leaving the inner barrel alone, the offset drop is half of the width you move out.

Edit:
I noticed in your original post you said you had a 19x10+31. If that is correct would have a 20x10.5 +25 if you only change the outer lip by .5".

[QUOTE=tiger4life;511377]One inch is 25.4 millimeters. If you originally had a 10.5" + 31 and then added a .5" to the outer lip, your new measurements would be 11" + 25. When you're just adding width to the outside the like that and leaving the inner barrel alone, the offset drop is half of the width you move out.

Edit:
I noticed in your original post you said you had a 19x10+31. If that is correct would have a 20x10.5 +25 if you only change the outer lip by .5".[/QUOTE]


the original set was 19x10, 3" outer and 7" inner. Withe the new set up it was a 3.5" outer an a 7.5" inner. What your saying does make sense though. I was expecting it to poke out further from the fender if it was a +19 according to offset calculators that are posted in the forums.

So if I had gone with a 4.5" (38.1mm equiv.) outer and a 6.5" inner, would that make my offset a +7? sorry for the questions, just want to make sure Im calculating properly. I know I can calculate off by actually measuring the wheels, but for future purposes if i ever decide to re-lip again i just want to make sure i'm getting the right numbers.

If you added a .5" to the inside and .5" to the outside it's a 11" +31. You should probably look at some diagrams if you want understand better, but the answer I'm giving u is correct.

You're right, a 4.5/6.5 combo would be around +6.

A camber adapter would do everything the SS kit pro does but add a bit of camber. You can always max the camber bolt positive and have it only add 1.5 degrees or so.

[QUOTE=chrispy;511392]A camber adapter would do everything the SS kit pro does but add a bit of camber. You can always max the camber bolt positive and have it only add 1.5 degrees or so.[/QUOTE]

Are you referring to Nagisa plates,figs and genb rca spacers? If I read correctly, the figs/genb will only lower but the nagisa will drop, add camber and move move caster forward 10mm. Is that correct? if so that would be a less expensive option versus getting the youzealand kit.

[QUOTE=iVtec Type-s;511394]Are you referring to Nagisa plates,figs and genb rca spacers? If I read correctly, the figs/genb will only lower but the nagisa will drop, add camber and move move caster forward 10mm. Is that correct? if so that would be a less expensive option versus getting the youzealand kit.[/QUOTE]

Exactly; the "spacer" type will only lower the vehicle, where the Nagiasa will caster, camber and lower. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using VIPStyleCars mobile app

looks fucking good man. I love that interior color. I also love black but will not go with a black car again haha. You also have my second favorite wheels so I am really liking this. Im trying to figure out how you were able to fit a +18 in the rear I had to pull my rears just to fit a +25 on natural camber. Either way the car looks great and im glad you stepped up to 20's. I feel that 20" step lips are the best set up for a 430.

oh PS that rsx was sick!! I am still a honda guy so that did it for me too.

[QUOTE=DPK*David;511474]looks fucking good man. I love that interior color. I also love black but will not go with a black car again haha. You also have my second favorite wheels so I am really liking this. Im trying to figure out how you were able to fit a +18 in the rear I had to pull my rears just to fit a +25 on natural camber. Either way the car looks great and im glad you stepped up to 20's. I feel that 20" step lips are the best set up for a 430.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the compliments, also loving your build too. You know it's bugging me now with the offset of the rears. Next time I pull them off the car I'll measure and find out what the offsets really are. 

According to tiger4life since I added 1/2" to the inner and outer lip, my offset would still be a +31? 


Sent from my iPhone using VIPStyleCars

[QUOTE=iVtec Type-s;511478]Thanks for the compliments, also loving your  build too. You know it's bugging me now with the offset of the rears.  Next time I pull them off the car I'll measure and find out what the  offsets really are. 

According to tiger4life since I added 1/2" to the inner and outer lip, my offset would still be a +31? 


Sent from my iPhone using VIPStyleCars[/QUOTE]
  
Imagine you had an 11 inch zero offset wheel. Zero offset would mean  that the mounting area of the face is in the exact center of the wheel  at 5.5 inches from either end. If you add an inch to each end, the face  would still be in the dead center, only it would be 6.5 inches to either  side. The offset would still be zero, you would just have a 13 inch  wheel. 

You're confused because you think offset alone determines  how much a wheel sticks out, but it depends on width also. Offset  measures where the face of the wheel is in reference to the centerline  of the wheel. Your face was originally 31 mm past the centerline of the  wheel. It's still 31 mm past the centerline because you added the same  amount of rim on each side like the example above.

[QUOTE=tiger4life;511480]Imagine you had an 11 inch zero offset wheel. Zero offset would mean  that the mounting area of the face is in the exact center of the wheel  at 5.5 inches from either end. If you add an inch to each end, the face  would still be in the dead center, only it would be 6.5 inches to either  side. The offset would still be zero, you would just have a 13 inch  wheel. 

You're confused because you think offset alone determines  how much a wheel sticks out, but it depends on width also. Offset  measures where the face of the wheel is in reference to the centerline  of the wheel. Your face was originally 31 mm past the centerline of the  wheel. It's still 31 mm past the centerline because you added the same  amount of rim on each side like the example above.[/QUOTE]


Makes sense now. I was thinking about it after I posted and had a duh moment... I was over thinking it too much and didn't take into account I added the same to both inner and outer barrels, keeping the centerline the same, just changing the width... Kinda went off the word of my wheel builder. Thanks for the in depth explanation triger4life.

be careful with the nagisa, or other similar camber adapters. they will add a couple degrees of static camber but they will also push the wheel outwards.

[QUOTE=OG;511495]be careful with the nagisa, or other similar camber adapters. they will add a couple degrees of static camber but they will also push the wheel outwards.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the heads up. I've did some research after you mentioned them and it seems like they push the wheel out 8mm according to [COLOR=#3E3E3E]chrispy's build thread. That might actually work out for me since the added camber will bring the top of the rim inwards and I can play with the factory camber nut to dial out fitment. If anything, rolling the fronts should give me some clearance.

Its looking like I need finish my suspension and dial out camber and fitment before getting some body work done. [/COLOR]

nah... that's what i'm saying. because of where the pivot point is the entire wheel moves out, the top does not move in.

Ahh okay. I think that'll still work for the fitment I'm looking to dial in. 


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I had a friend who had a ebay badge-less grill that didn't fit his 01-03 LS. Put it on and left it chrome for a few weeks but it was too much bling for me, so I painted it black to match the car. When I went to pepboys to pick up paint I notice dupli-color had oem paint in a can. Found the 202/204 color code and picked up some clear aswell. Color looks good and seems to match. This is hold me over until I have it sprayed at a shop when i get misc thing fixed on the car.

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Letting the clear dry
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Total of 4 coats on the front side, 4 on the backside, and 3 coats of clear
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