Painting cars in Japan and USA

I have noticed in some of the vip magazines i had the paint of some cars look reflective? Maybe it's just me, but do they use more coats, different products? Is there products that is top choice.  For instance, I know that people like to use ppg in Virginia. I wish I had the pictures to show what i am talking about but, they are back home. 

Oh yah, what is the dark purple/black color they use for junction produce and various other vip cars?

Alex

actually, most of the dark colors that JP was using on their demo cars were a really dark green.

[IMG]http://www.jp-boutique.jp/product/aero/30CelsiorMCb/img/30celMCb.front.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.junction-produce.co.jp/english/bodykit/lexus/ls/ls430/img/ls430a.jpg[/IMG]

I said most, not all ;)  Also that car isn't personally owned by JP as well I believe.  The Crowns, Century, Aristos were all a really dark green. 

that was the one car that I never got to see in person whenever I was out in Japan.  Everytime, the owner of the car had it at some other event while we were in osaka.

but good try at trying to make me look colorblind!  :P

I would think John aka VIPStyleCars would know what he's talking about. He's personal friends with the JP folks. :cool:

[QUOTE=LSPinoy;66810][IMG]http://www.jp-boutique.jp/product/aero/30CelsiorMCb/img/30celMCb.front.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.junction-produce.co.jp/english/bodykit/lexus/ls/ls430/img/ls430a.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]








this color looks like black cherry.  like gato's gs:




[img]http://www.clublexus.com/gallery/data//500/IMG_2738.JPG[/img]
[url]http://vipstylecars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4639[/url]












as john/vipstylecars has already said though, most of jp's cars are actually dark green.

as far as getting the paint to shine, and appear reflective, it may not be so much about using different products to paint the car... it may just simply be that they detail their cars very well, as well as different techniques in post processing photos (such as photoshop) :shrug:

As for why the paint is more reflective?  to be honest with you, it looked the same to me.  When they washed the cars, they washed it normally like we would.  I probably was just in awe to be looking at these cars in person so I probably didn't look at it that much closer.

you can get that 'reflective' shine from a good claying, polish, glaze, seal, then waxing.  

visit [url]www.autopia.org[/url] for more information on car paint care. 

it's all about how you take care of the car's paint, i've seen some dirty, neglected cars get restored to a shiney new look, with just a day's work.

[QUOTE=Caoboy;66857]you can get that 'reflective' shine from a good claying, polish, glaze, seal, then waxing.  

visit [url]www.autopia.org[/url] for more information on car paint care. 

it's all about how you take care of the car's paint, i've seen some dirty, neglected cars get restored to a shiney new look, with just a day's work.[/QUOTE]

Yes most definitely.  I have original 10yr old  black paint on my 97' Q45.  There are areas where it's actually cracked from baking under the sun.  (there was a TSB/recall on the cracking paint for those cars at the time - mine wasn't seen)

Using claybar and waxing did incredible wonders.  The cracks are still there, but you have to get real close to see.  Because now, the surface is so smooth and reflective, it actually hides defects because it is so reflective and shiny.  The paint surface is like glass.  

It really made a difference... like I got a new paint job difference.

I'm guessing, that's how those other cars are so reflective.

if there was a tsb and yours wasn't seen, see if you can take it in. you may get a new paint job for free LOL

LOL .     man I wish.  But it's a time sensitive TSB.  I'll just clay away for now.  Can't tell the difference from 5ft away anyway.

as long as you paint the car with the best of your ability. its all in the prep work. and in the end you just wet sand, and detail the whole car....only paint i've used is sikkens. then again.. barley started paint about 6 months ago....(sprayed one car X)  )

and as some of you guys may know... in 08 the U.s has to convert all there solvent based paints to water base :( that means new guns and spray booths.

My car is painted with PPG Omni (aka bottom of the line), but it still looks very shiny in photos....same with the 8 year old stock paint. A good cleaning makes all the difference.
When you add a high quality paintjob and professional photography to the mix...

[QUOTE=VIPStyleCars;66815]I said most, not all ;)  Also that car isn't personally owned by JP as well I believe.  The Crowns, Century, Aristos were all a really dark green. 

that was the one car that I never got to see in person whenever I was out in Japan.  Everytime, the owner of the car had it at some other event while we were in osaka.

but good try at trying to make me look colorblind!  :P[/QUOTE]

hahah i wasn't trying to make you look colorblind:P i just wanted to show people what i was talking about.

[QUOTE=|crash|™;66825]I would think John aka VIPStyleCars would know what he's talking about. He's personal friends with the JP folks. :cool:[/QUOTE]

did i say he didn't?

If you want your car to looks more reflective,  use more clear coats, thats what gives you that always "wet" look.   Lexus has a "premium" package which includes 2 extra coats of clear, for that super glossy look.   The top brands of paints that I know are PPG and Dupont.

[IMG]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/racinstylez/DSCN0685.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/racinstylez/DSCN0686.jpg[/IMG]

oh and lots and lots of Zaino

^^^^wow maybe it was something like that. i am going back home this weekend so i'll post pics of what i'm talking about

[QUOTE=LSPinoy;66935]hahah i wasn't trying to make you look colorblind:P i just wanted to show people what i was talking about.[/QUOTE]

I know, I was teasing ya.  :dance: 

Or you can do what I have been doing with keeping my paint fresh.  Let it sit in a garage and never see any light, rain, or anything at all!   :sad:

[quote=RaCinStylez;66939][IMG]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/racinstylez/DSCN0685.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/racinstylez/DSCN0686.jpg[/IMG]
 
oh and lots and lots of Zaino[/quote]
 
 
WOW!!!........That is simply amazing, it look's like a mirror man.....

Lots and lots of clear over the paint.

when i repaint my car i'm gonna use sikkens... seen a bunch of car sprayed with sikkens and the results speak for themselves

Please explain what sikkens is/are.....

Socal guys I can get that look at my Detail Shop.

applying more coats of clearcoat doesnt make it shinier (sp?) more layers of paint and clear makes it more vulnerable to cracking. if you want a damn near glass finish, you can color sand/wet sand the clear (using 1200 grit sandpaper then, 1500, then 2000) and using compounds to buff it back to a shine. after each coat of paint, the paint doesnt lay down flat. it actually lays down bumpy like the surface of an orange. some of you may have heard the term orange peel, where the clearcoat looks like the surface of an orange. any car from the factory i can guarentee has some sort of orange peel, most people wouldnt notice it and say its perfect but to the trained eye it can be spotted. 

the way i was taught in school and at work to make a damn near perfect paint job would be to spray your base whether it be 2-3 coats or what, then lay down your clear. id say 3-4 coats should be good. then wait for the clear to cure then you can start wet sanding/color sanding/cutting the clear, whatever you want to call it for buff...

if you wanna get a bit more nuts, after you shoot your clear, let it dry for like maybe 1-2days ten wet sand the whole car with 1000 grit sand paper then shoot 2 more coats of clear, your end result will look like glass. everytime you shoot a coat of paint or clear, it doesnt lay down flat, so everytime you shoot a coat it just amplifies the coat under it resulting in orange peel. which lead to the last thing you can do if you are a total freak when it comes to painting...

after each coat of basecoat or color, people sand each coat down to take away any orange peel, but not to the point where you sand off all the paint. just the surface to cut down the orange peel. and repeat however may time until you get full coverage. anywhere form 5-10 coats. this ensures that the next layer of color you spray, is sprayed on a totally flat surface. then you can shoot your clearcoat, color sand and buff. you end result would be flawless, looking like glass. clear enough to use as a mirror and pick boogers... 

i sprayed this buick grand naitonal m senior year of high school. just your tradional  paint job, color sanded and buffed in the end... got paid nothing for it though...
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/calitri808/P.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/calitri808/Ps.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/calitri808/Pdd.jpg[/IMG]

restored a 1975 land crusier that was attacked with a rust stick. paint it back to stock red with white top... had orange peel.. could be buffed out. but we just left it and i got paided 400 for it. wootlins.

the biggest thing about getting a mirror finish is not how many coats of clear IMO, but how well of the job the car was wetsanded and buffed. No orange peel = mirror finish.

just as said above.

too much clear is no good...you should only lay down 3 coats MAX...too many coats will not allow the clear to flow out and lay down evenly...the good thing is that you will have a lot of material to cut down and get rid of any orange peel and be REALLY shiny BUT the bad is you will see waves...almost like someone did body work and it wasn't done well...
 
It's all about the cutting a buffing!

here some before and after pics of cars that were done at our shop. it's amazing how people can make shitty ass cars into brand new looking cars. dupont, sherwin williams, house of kolor, is some of the paint we use but most of time it's PPG and PPG's Vibrance. top quality shit if you ask me. let me know what you guys think, i know some of you SD heads might know our shop but since im working there now im trying to get our family business on the scene again. too lazy to upload pics so just peep the thread. thanks

[url]http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163458&highlight=jocsons[/url]

i use dupont...chromapremier is the shit i think...especially easy to use their color matching system...the valueshade is a bonus too but we don't usually pay too much attention to that unless it's a transparent color...

Its not about how much clear you use, its about how you prep the car and how you lay down the paint. Dont cut corners when wet sanding. If its not wetsanded perfectly then 2 coats or 4 will look like crap either way.
 
 
Although if preped nicely, multiple coats of clear can really bring out the color on a show car. people that run 4-5 coats of clear, keep their car garaged and only bring them out for shows because the paint will chip off because it is too thick and the clear needs something to bond to. I plan on spraying 6-7 coats on candy/clear on my pontiac but I sanded it down to bare metal before I primed it.  The car will not touch the streets though.

[quote=widebody_Q;70388]Its not about how much clear you use, its about how you prep the car and how you lay down the paint. Dont cut corners when wet sanding. If its not wetsanded perfectly then 2 coats or 4 will look like crap either way.
 
 
Although if preped nicely, multiple coats of clear can really bring out the color on a show car. people that run 4-5 coats of clear, keep their car garaged and only bring them out for shows because the paint will chip off because it is too thick and the clear needs something to bond to. I plan on spraying 6-7 coats on candy/clear on my pontiac but I sanded it down to bare metal before I primed it. The car will not touch the streets though.[/quote]
 
 
what do you mean by 'cut corners wetsanding' and 'wet sanding perfectly'?  there is really only one way to wetsanding...you can either nib sand first then wetsand the entire area that was sprayed or vice versa...do you mean cut the clear down evenly so all the panels of the car match as far as shinyness and orange peel?  and yes, it is to some extent, how much clear you use.

Here's my car stock paint but with many buffings.

wow there are some gorgeous paintjobs in this thread.:biggthumpup:

i guess i'll post my pics too...
 
my first paint job ever on my 90' LS
 
[IMG]http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/VIP-UCF/IMG_0612.jpg[/IMG]
 
here's another one that i found...
 
[IMG]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/VIP-Y33/UCF10-1.jpg[/IMG]
 
and here is a transparent red i shot on a J30...before the cut and buffing
 
[IMG]http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/VIP-UCF/DSC00360.jpg[/IMG]

[quote=VIP-UCF;70836]i guess i'll post my pics too...
my first paint job ever on my 90' LS
here's another one that i found...
nd here is a transparent red i shot on a J30...before the cut and buffing
 
[/quote]
 
I thought that was you :yahoo_101:  while reading the tire thread today...good to see you back!

yeah, i told myself that i'll never come back to this site again but my VIP blood is too strong...can't let a few bad apples ruin it for me...

double post...how do i delete these things?

[QUOTE]what do you mean by 'cut corners wetsanding' and 'wet sanding perfectly'? there is really only one way to wetsanding...you can either nib sand first then wetsand the entire area that was sprayed or vice versa...do you mean cut the clear down evenly so all the panels of the car match as far as shinyness and orange peel? and yes, it is to some extent, how much clear you use.[/QUOTE]
 
Some shops try to get cars out ASAP so they can bring in the next.  Some panels dont match as far as shinyness and orange peel.  Thats what I meant.

Do work at MACCO? Cuz word on the streets this car was painted there....I COULD BE WRONG!!!. Im assuming you have experience in Autobody and paint.....why didnt you bodywork the kit if you knew you were gonna paint it black. I could surf on that kit.. just curious

[quote=VIP-UCF;70836]i guess i'll post my pics too...
 
my first paint job ever on my 90' LS
 
[IMG]http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/VIP-UCF/IMG_0612.jpg[/IMG]
 
here's another one that i found...
 
[IMG]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c329/VIP-Y33/UCF10-1.jpg[/IMG]
 
and here is a transparent red i shot on a J30...before the cut and buffing
 
[IMG]http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k63/VIP-UCF/DSC00360.jpg[/IMG][/quote]

The kit was used and pretty messed up to begin with...I bought that car about 3 weeks before the show and body worked the fender and hood cuz they were pounded in from the previous owner. I didn't have the money or time to waste on replacing them...I'm actually surprised I got it done in time considering I've never even mixed bondo or painted before...I even cut springs the day of the show when my car was still in pieces...I was never looking for perfection, just something I can learn on...
 
Maaco? Ur retarded.
 
Some of you guys may remember my project car for under $5k...well that was it.
 
Is this aaron?  cuz word on the street is that you're a hack...

oh well, since everyones posting up paint jobs... heres one of my others. type-r white (championship white) with escalade white pearl. shot 1 sealer, 3 base, 3 pearl, 4 clear. color sanded and buffed the f$ck out of it. and heres what i got. since the type-r white was an off white, and the escalade pearl was kind of an off white pearl, it clashed very well. but thats way off the subject.

i usually try new things out. i mean mixing up colors. like black base, red pearl. things of that natural. i usually tell people that i sprayed cars for, to go with a color that the car didnt come stock in. it makes it stand out that much more. but that was for like racer type cars, or sport trucks. but with VIP, you can only go with so many colors...
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/calitri808/cory%20car/ray005.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/calitri808/cory%20car/ray001-1.jpg[/IMG]
theres was my stock ass LS..
[IMG]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/calitri808/cory%20car/ray004.jpg[/IMG]

Nope not Aaron..........his SN is ENDLESSNA1 FYI

c'mon guys, let not turn this in to a clublexus.com.....

[quote=mista808;71230]c'mon guys, let not turn this in to a clublexus.com.....[/quote]
 
I'm down with that...
 
what guns do you spray with?
 
I use devilbiss for solids (which i hate), sata for metallics and peals and iwata for clear...also got my sharpe for primer and devilbiss SRI-W touch up gun...

[quote=VIP-UCF;71234]I'm down with that...
 
what guns do you spray with?
 
I use devilbiss for solids (which i hate), sata for metallics and peals and iwata for clear...also got my sharpe for primer and devilbiss SRI-W touch up gun...[/quote]


I use my 9mm for Base (which i love), AK47 and a SAW'D off for clear.....also my 22 for touch ups......Ya dig!!! LMAO.... My bad i didnt know that was ur ride Homie. im pretty sure u knoe who this is? Looking for shoes for the G50. Martin told me ur selling ur rims?  Ask him for my number. I wanna check them out!!! Oh and call me on dat 420 trip. ifyanawmeen

yeah, i know...i'll hit you up today after work and you can swing by...

[QUOTE=SECRET SERVICE. UCF21;71310]I use my 9mm for Base (which i love), AK47 and a SAW'D off for clear.....also my 22 for touch ups......Ya dig!!! LMAO.... My bad i didnt know that was ur ride Homie. im pretty sure u knoe who this is? Looking for shoes for the G50. Martin told me ur selling ur rims?  Ask him for my number. I wanna check them out!!! Oh and call me on dat 420 trip. ifyanawmeen[/QUOTE]

U'ze a fool! LOL!

Like others have stated, the secret to shine is color-sanding
and buffing.

There are some 'reflective' paints on the market like the 
stuff Nick used on his MR2... it's sort of a semi-chrome finish.

We used PPG Vibrance on my GS.

Not cheap paint, but it's stunning in person.

[quote=mista808;71118]shot 1 sealer, 3 base, 3 pearl, 4 clear. color sanded and buffed the f$ck out of it. a
[/quote]
When you shot the pearl, was it in clear base, or clearcoat? 'cuz 3 coats seems like a lot to me. When I did pearl, I just shot 1 coat of clear base with the pearl, then fogged it a bit to have it sit nice and sparkly. Then I just wouldn't rinse the gun completely in clean out the rest of the pearl with the clearcoat. I did this to keep the paint thickness down.

Iwata for life yo!
Iwata 300 one for solids, one for metallics and one for pearls. The same gun I use for solids I use it for candys too, and my 400 just for clear. I also have a gun kit I bought in a matco truck and looks like the guns where made by devilbiss: touch up gun and a big heavy mofo I use for sealer and occassionally for single stages.

Satas are very good guns and probably the best, only problem is they are very expensive to repair and their guns (i dunno the model) are kind of heavy compared to iwatas. I painted a complete f150 charcoal grey met with my friends sata 600 or whatever and my arm was somewhat tired after spraying just half the truck... not comfortable for me since I like to spray kind of quick maybe cos i got used to the iwata's lightness...

House of Color...3 shades of custom Candy Brandywine FTMFW! 
 
[IMG]http://driftgirl.org/STUFF/4/LL%20at%20Seaspot.jpg[/IMG]
WILL Blind you in direct sunlight!! 
 
[IMG]http://driftgirl.org/STUFF/DSCF35861.jpg[/IMG]

Drift girl: i bet!! did you sprayed over silver base or just over white? 

man, i still kind of suck at candies but i am getting better. 
I painted this car with SEM pearls. I based the car white then followed with SEM Lime pearl and ended with Mango. Clear is PPG shop line since it is a drift car.

[url]http://dmspec.com/test/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=42&fullsize=1[/url]

[url]http://dmspec.com/test/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=46&fullsize=1[/url]

[url]http://dmspec.com/test/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=51&fullsize=1[/url]

[url]http://dmspec.com/test/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=50&fullsize=1[/url]


it also came out on some nopi coverage and ond modified magazine in a nopi coverage section!!! my first!! :biggthumpup: :dance: :smiley: