Y33 upgraded rear traction rods; are they necessary for running max negative camber?

I've maxed out the S14 rear upper camber arms for negative camber and also have added S13 rear toe links. I could get the pillowball rear traction rods, but are they even necessary for this setup? Are the S13/S14 traction rods even interchangeable? I've been reading that they should be set to the stock length and should only be adjusted to correct bump steer, but are these overkill for just daily driving? I'm thinking, might as well finish it off and get them so all my arms are polished, what do I have to lose besides a few more bushings?

Actually, i suspect they may be necessary when you drastically change the suspension geometry with aftermarket toe/camber arms. 
 
Not sure if its just me, but i find that on some curvy roads i get a bit of a floaty feeling on the rear. Not dangerously so, but i think this might be the 'bumpsteer' that people talk about. Either that or its just the fact that my car weighs over 3500lb and it will never feel like a sports car.
 
Anyway, the suspension in the rear consists of 4 links: Toe, camber, traction and LCA (are there 2 LCAs?). The lengths of these have been meticulously calculated (as pointed out by oneton) to ensure minimal toe changes during the full range of suspension travel. By shortening the camber and toe arms, this balance is upset IMO.. Adding Traction Control arms might bring back the balance, but i have no idea how you would adjust them!

[quote=Dominik;77067]Adding Traction Control arms might bring back the balance, but i have no idea how you would adjust them![/quote]Yea, on some 240sx forums, people have mentioned that they just leave it the stock length, but then I'm asking what's the point of getting them? Others are saying the alignment shop will adjust them, but mostly race alignment shops will know what they're doing if they have a bump steer gauge since both the toe link and the traction rod will affect toe correction. Normal alignment shops usually don't have a bump steer gauge and wouldn't know how to adjust both links at the same time. I guess I'll hold off on getting them, just curious to see if others have upgraded theirs.

My problem is that i cant decide on a ride height i like; i keep changing it. Its bad enough adjusting toe and camber each time. But to do the traction rods as well would be impossible!

yes

If you go super duper dope low on any nissan susnsion, and plan on driving it that way, you MUST get all 3 rear upper arms
Camber
Toe
Traction
Luckily, the y33 can use any of the s14 arm parts
as well as the z32, s13 traction rods in the rear

my stagea has all 3 arms
if you dont get the traction rod, you can still adjust your toe, but the wheel will be slightly more forward in the wheel well instead of centered due to the new geometry of the lowness

[QUOTE=Yokotas13;77165]yes

If you go super duper dope low on any nissan susnsion, and plan on driving it that way, you MUST get all 3 rear upper arms
Camber
Toe
Traction
Luckily, the y33 can use any of the s14 arm parts
as well as the z32, s13 traction rods in the rear

my stagea has all 3 arms
if you dont get the traction rod, you can still adjust your toe, but the wheel will be slightly more forward in the wheel well instead of centered due to the new geometry of the lowness[/QUOTE]
is that the pigeon toed look I see?

yeah when the toe is all messed up you get he pigeon toed look

when you get just the toe arm, it corrects it, but moves the wheel further torwards the front of the wheel well

with the traction rod, it helps to recenter it

Yeah I am going to have to get all this shit for my suspension.

yeah, i have to fo the cedric also

the y33 geometry seems to be a little more forgiving however and has more ajustability