Negative effects of negative camber
Is negative camber causing wavy inner side of tyres?
I've been driven with negative camber for three months and find out my tyres inner side shaped like some sort of fin.
Can anyone help to solve this problem of mine? Tyres is aint cheap these days....
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Is negative camber causing wavy inner side of tyres?
I've been driven with negative camber for three months and find out my tyres inner side shaped like some sort of fin.
Can anyone help to solve this problem of mine? Tyres is aint cheap these days....
Just replaced my fronts about 2 weeks ago due to my tyres lookin like that and seperating!!!:pat:
The tire metal started showing! The tires were several months old but was riding camber on them for about 3-4 months!
:shrug:
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Just replaced my fronts about 2 weeks ago due to my tyres lookin like that and seperating!!!:pat:
The tire metal started showing! The tires were several months old but was riding camber on them for about 3-4 months!
:shrug:
PANCAKES!;88301 wrote:Just replaced my fronts about 2 weeks ago due to my tyres lookin like that and seperating!!!:pat:
The Nankangs separated too? My front tires are starting to have that irregular wear pattern too. Toe and Caster was set properly too. Rears are wearing fine, I guess it's because the front also do the steering while the rears are basically in a fixed position.:dunno:
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[QUOTE=PANCAKES!;88301]Just replaced my fronts about 2 weeks ago due to my tyres lookin like that and seperating!!!:pat: [/QUOTE]
The Nankangs separated too? My front tires are starting to have that irregular wear pattern too. Toe and Caster was set properly too. Rears are wearing fine, I guess it's because the front also do the steering while the rears are basically in a fixed position.:dunno:
Sawtooth pattern in tyres almost always means incorrect toe. On the front i guess its unavoidable because if you steer to one side you are putting toe on both sides (negative one side, positive the other)
Wearing through tyres (to the metal) in 3-4 months is probably just bad alignment... Unless you are doing
Btw, Kreasisms, its called CAMBER :)
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Sawtooth pattern in tyres almost always means incorrect toe. On the front i guess its unavoidable because if you steer to one side you are putting toe on both sides (negative one side, positive the other)
Wearing through tyres (to the metal) in 3-4 months is probably just bad alignment... Unless you are doing
Btw, Kreasisms, its called CAMBER :)
Dom have you noticed whith you JIC camber plates maxed out that when yuo turn almost all the way it sounds like metal rubbing the street...I have not taken my front wheels off to check to see if I have grinded any part of my wheel barel but I may check to today. see if I can notice any affects of - camber wear...
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Dom have you noticed whith you JIC camber plates maxed out that when yuo turn almost all the way it sounds like metal rubbing the street...I have not taken my front wheels off to check to see if I have grinded any part of my wheel barel but I may check to today. see if I can notice any affects of - camber wear...
man I'm reducing my camber, all of this "metal showing" talk is scaring me.
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man I'm reducing my camber, all of this "metal showing" talk is scaring me.
thats just the thing mang its one of those things..you gotta pat to play..and usually the over all best look on the car with just the right camber and offsets and width = $$$$ on tires..thats why you should just get cheap tires from now on...and most problems with the tires are in the front not the rear..the fronts allways take more of an impact..of your fronts arnt cambered in done bother messing with your rears.....
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thats just the thing mang its one of those things..you gotta pat to play..and usually the over all best look on the car with just the right camber and offsets and width = $$$$ on tires..thats why you should just get cheap tires from now on...and most problems with the tires are in the front not the rear..the fronts allways take more of an impact..of your fronts arnt cambered in done bother messing with your rears.....
sounds like your tire is cupping.. it happens when your toe is off
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sounds like your tire is cupping.. it happens when your toe is off
nay it's OK. I'd rather save my tires and be practical. My front wheel size is narrow enough to set the camber to a decent setting. I don't need to stuff it in.
zion_97;88327 wrote:thats just the thing mang its one of those things..you gotta pat to play..and usually the over all best look on the car with just the right camber and offsets and width = $$$$ on tires..thats why you should just get cheap tires from now on...and most problems with the tires are in the front not the rear..the fronts allways take more of an impact..of your fronts arnt cambered in done bother messing with your rears.....
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nay it's OK. I'd rather save my tires and be practical. My front wheel size is narrow enough to set the camber to a decent setting. I don't need to stuff it in.
[quote=zion_97;88327]thats just the thing mang its one of those things..you gotta pat to play..and usually the over all best look on the car with just the right camber and offsets and width = $$$$ on tires..thats why you should just get cheap tires from now on...and most problems with the tires are in the front not the rear..the fronts allways take more of an impact..of your fronts arnt cambered in done bother messing with your rears.....[/quote]
mann i was gonna post up a thread about this too but since you already did i also noticed how my front tires were wearing out faster than my rears. i just got my air suspension installed about 2-3 months ago and they ate up my tires all the way to metal. good thing i switched them out just a couple nights ago. i checked my rears and everything looked fine just normal wear on the corner on the inner tire. i guess it's because the fronts are more stressed from the weight of the front end.
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mann i was gonna post up a thread about this too but since you already did i also noticed how my front tires were wearing out faster than my rears. i just got my air suspension installed about 2-3 months ago and they ate up my tires all the way to metal. good thing i switched them out just a couple nights ago. i checked my rears and everything looked fine just normal wear on the corner on the inner tire. i guess it's because the fronts are more stressed from the weight of the front end.
also when your cambered in the front when you turn its alot more stress on the side walls...Qoozy post some pics of your front and rear fitment...thanks..
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also when your cambered in the front when you turn its alot more stress on the side walls...Qoozy post some pics of your front and rear fitment...thanks..
I'll put it up tonight.
zion_97;88359 wrote:also when your cambered in the front when you turn its alot more stress on the side walls...Qoozy post some pics of your front and rear fitment...thanks..
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I'll put it up tonight.
[quote=zion_97;88359]also when your cambered in the front when you turn its alot more stress on the side walls...Qoozy post some pics of your front and rear fitment...thanks..[/quote]
Dominik;88307 wrote:Sawtooth pattern in tyres almost always means incorrect toe. On the front i guess its unavoidable because if you steer to one side you are putting toe on both sides (negative one side, positive the other)
Wearing through tyres (to the metal) in 3-4 months is probably just bad alignment... Unless you are doing
Btw, Kreasisms, its called CAMBER :)
Thanks for the correction. I tend to mix those two words together. Even on my business presentation :pat:
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[quote=Dominik;88307]Sawtooth pattern in tyres almost always means incorrect toe. On the front i guess its unavoidable because if you steer to one side you are putting toe on both sides (negative one side, positive the other)
Wearing through tyres (to the metal) in 3-4 months is probably just bad alignment... Unless you are doing
Btw, Kreasisms, its called CAMBER :)[/quote]
Thanks for the correction. I tend to mix those two words together. Even on my business presentation :pat:
zion_97;88327 wrote:thats just the thing mang its one of those things..you gotta pat to play..and usually the over all best look on the car with just the right camber and offsets and width = $$$$ on tires..thats why you should just get cheap tires from now on...and most problems with the tires are in the front not the rear..the fronts allways take more of an impact..of your fronts arnt cambered in done bother messing with your rears.....
I'll take your advice & will get cheapest tyres available. So called "right & correct" settings does not look good... Thanks....
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[quote=zion_97;88327]thats just the thing mang its one of those things..you gotta pat to play..and usually the over all best look on the car with just the right camber and offsets and width = $$$$ on tires..thats why you should just get cheap tires from now on...and most problems with the tires are in the front not the rear..the fronts allways take more of an impact..of your fronts arnt cambered in done bother messing with your rears.....[/quote]
I'll take your advice & will get cheapest tyres available. So called "right & correct" settings does not look good... Thanks....
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this is an old thread from another forum that i posted.
the specs on these are 15x8 0et 2in. drop on coilovers w/-3 up front and -5 down back w/kuhmo 195/45/15 of course the xB has a diff. sus from lex or infi. but in either case, tire will see some wear when running camber.
as you can see, tires all the way across really never seen the pavement.
well, off to my garage for another set.......
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wonder what they were inflated at??..I use to run mine at 40psi untill I added the camber and lowered it to 35psi...I know lots of folks use more air in thier tires when streched but I think when running camber by having 30-35 psi will allow you more tread contact patch than just side wall..:shrug:
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wonder what they were inflated at??..I use to run mine at 40psi untill I added the camber and lowered it to 35psi...I know lots of folks use more air in thier tires when streched but I think when running camber by having 30-35 psi will allow you more tread contact patch than just side wall..:shrug:
Yeah but you gotta be careful with your PSI settings. Since we are in AZ I hope your running 35PSI Cold, Or your tires are dropping psi after sitting over night which would be bad. I was told the abnormal high low wear pattern is also Toe. Going for my alighnment on Thursday let you guys know how bad mine is. hehehe
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Yeah but you gotta be careful with your PSI settings. Since we are in AZ I hope your running 35PSI Cold, Or your tires are dropping psi after sitting over night which would be bad. I was told the abnormal high low wear pattern is also Toe. Going for my alighnment on Thursday let you guys know how bad mine is. hehehe
laser alignment,
no eyeballing. lol.
and yes, air has alot to do with wear also. you dont want too low of a psi, where the tires may buckle, fold, or pinch the tires when driving tight around corners, and wearing out your tires premature. (like my tires)
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laser alignment,
no eyeballing. lol.
and yes, air has alot to do with wear also. you dont want too low of a psi, where the tires may buckle, fold, or pinch the tires when driving tight around corners, and wearing out your tires premature. (like my tires)
Wow... The BB is actually rolling on the tyres's side wall... Imagine if bippU! use lower profile tyres. Rims will gone as well...
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Wow... The BB is actually rolling on the tyres's side wall... Imagine if bippU! use lower profile tyres. Rims will gone as well...
kreasims;88572 wrote:Wow... The BB is actually rolling on the tyres's side wall... Imagine if bippU! use lower profile tyres. Rims will gone as well...
yup, and see some sparks too! lol.
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[QUOTE=kreasims;88572]Wow... The BB is actually rolling on the tyres's side wall... Imagine if bippU! use lower profile tyres. Rims will gone as well...[/QUOTE]
yup, and see some sparks too! lol.
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WOW a -3 camber did this to your tires ? that sucks.
the scion looks like there was enough room to straighten out.
[quote=bippU!;88536]this is an old thread from another forum that i posted.
the specs on these are 15x8 0et 2in. drop on coilovers w/-3 up front and -5 down back w/kuhmo 195/45/15 of course the xB has a diff. sus from lex or infi. but in either case, tire will see some wear when running camber.
as you can see, tires all the way across really never seen the pavement.
well, off to my garage for another set.......
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/hotxb990/100_5438.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/hotxb990/100_5441.jpg[/IMG]
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[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v509/hotxb990/100_5443.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b386/HumanTorchxB990/ThunderGodRDJS3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b386/HumanTorchxB990/ThunderGodcf3i.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
QoozyFoozy;88579 wrote:WOW a -3 camber did this to your tires ? that sucks.
the scion looks like there was enough room to straighten out.
its actually -5 (rear), that took the damage. i ran -5 in the rears due to 0 offset w/8in. width wheel.
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[QUOTE=QoozyFoozy;88579]WOW a -3 camber did this to your tires ? that sucks.
the scion looks like there was enough room to straighten out.[/QUOTE]
its actually -5 (rear), that took the damage. i ran -5 in the rears due to 0 offset w/8in. width wheel.
Correct me if I'm wrong, lower PSI means less air that sometimes act as an absorber protecting your wheels in case you hit a huge hole on the street or speed bumps. With lower pressure, the wheels can easily dented / not round (I don't know the correct words :smiley:), especially if you are riding on a huge rims with low profile tyres.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, lower PSI means less air that sometimes act as an absorber protecting your wheels in case you hit a huge hole on the street or speed bumps. With lower pressure, the wheels can easily dented / not round (I don't know the correct words :smiley:), especially if you are riding on a huge rims with low profile tyres.
zion_97;88540 wrote:wonder what they were inflated at??..I use to run mine at 40psi untill I added the camber and lowered it to 35psi...I know lots of folks use more air in thier tires when streched but I think when running camber by having 30-35 psi will allow you more tread contact patch than just side wall..:shrug:
I also run lower pressure, about 37psi (but it doesnt get that cold here). Helps with tyre wear because its not just the very corner of the wheel that is touching the ground.
Its been over a year now on the rear wheels at 6.5 degrees. Tyres have been flipped halfway through the year and need to be replaced, but still no where near the metal bands.
Bippu, were your tyres aligned to *factory* specs? That seems pretty extreme for only 5 degrees of camber!
Zion, i get no noises on the front even at full lock. I hope for your sake its just the tyre rubbing on your inner lining!!
I think the important point in this thread is to keep an eye out on your tyres. I try to check mine every time i drive it. Just a quick check for bubbles, wear and punctures
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[quote=zion_97;88540]wonder what they were inflated at??..I use to run mine at 40psi untill I added the camber and lowered it to 35psi...I know lots of folks use more air in thier tires when streched but I think when running camber by having 30-35 psi will allow you more tread contact patch than just side wall..:shrug:[/quote]
I also run lower pressure, about 37psi (but it doesnt get that cold here). Helps with tyre wear because its not just the very corner of the wheel that is touching the ground.
Its been over a year now on the rear wheels at 6.5 degrees. Tyres have been flipped halfway through the year and need to be replaced, but still no where near the metal bands.
Bippu, were your tyres aligned to *factory* specs? That seems pretty extreme for only 5 degrees of camber!
Zion, i get no noises on the front even at full lock. I hope for your sake its just the tyre rubbing on your inner lining!!
I think the important point in this thread is to keep an eye out on your tyres. I try to check mine every time i drive it. Just a quick check for bubbles, wear and punctures
well said ^^^^
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well said ^^^^
Dominik;88656 wrote:
I think the important point in this thread is to keep an eye out on your tyres. I try to check mine every time i drive it. Just a quick check for bubbles, wear and punctures
2nd. I do that frequently also.
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[QUOTE=Dominik;88656]
I think the important point in this thread is to keep an eye out on your tyres. I try to check mine every time i drive it. Just a quick check for bubbles, wear and punctures[/QUOTE]
2nd. I do that frequently also.
After my last incidents I 3rd that. I am a freaking PSI freak now. lol
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After my last incidents I 3rd that. I am a freaking PSI freak now. lol
QoozyFoozy;88362 wrote:I'll put it up tonight.
Post the pics, please...
I'm keen to see it.
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[quote=QoozyFoozy;88362]I'll put it up tonight.[/quote]
Post the pics, please...
I'm keen to see it.
BippU- i think youh had more than likely been rubbing something on your xb... strut, coil, inner fender, or something of that sort...
if you had been riding on the side of the tire like that the little bit of tread that is still sorta showing on the corner of the tire would have been toast and the metal mesh would have been showing being that that would have been sticking further down that nthe other two sopts that are worn. look at your fender well and sus. comp. for signs of rubbing.
as for negitive camber issues i agree that a proper alighnment will minimize wear; more so on the rear than the fronts.
My tires have 5k on them from me plus what ever the previous owner put down and still look damn good in the rear. the front on the other hand i just checked the other day while i was lowering the front and adding some spacers my passengers side inner sholder is shot but there is 95% tread over the rest of the tire where the drivers side is still in "ok" shape but will need to be flipped in the next few days
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BippU- i think youh had more than likely been rubbing something on your xb... strut, coil, inner fender, or something of that sort...
if you had been riding on the side of the tire like that the little bit of tread that is still sorta showing on the corner of the tire would have been toast and the metal mesh would have been showing being that that would have been sticking further down that nthe other two sopts that are worn. look at your fender well and sus. comp. for signs of rubbing.
as for negitive camber issues i agree that a proper alighnment will minimize wear; more so on the rear than the fronts.
My tires have 5k on them from me plus what ever the previous owner put down and still look damn good in the rear. the front on the other hand i just checked the other day while i was lowering the front and adding some spacers my passengers side inner sholder is shot but there is 95% tread over the rest of the tire where the drivers side is still in "ok" shape but will need to be flipped in the next few days
^^
What brand are you running?
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^^
What brand are you running?
Dominik;88656 wrote:Bippu, were your tyres aligned to *factory* specs? That seems pretty extreme for only 5 degrees of camber!
not to factory, for the xB.
monopolizedinc;89432 wrote:BippU- i think youh had more than likely been rubbing something on your xb... strut, coil, inner fender, or something of that sort...
if you had been riding on the side of the tire like that the little bit of tread that is still sorta showing on the corner of the tire would have been toast and the metal mesh would have been showing being that that would have been sticking further down that nthe other two sopts that are worn. look at your fender well and sus. comp. for signs of rubbing.
no rubbing whatsoever on any of the components.
with 15x8 0 offset on a xB is agressive to start off with, and then adding another -5 GARSON camber plates (which if i had it measured on a laser scale, prolly wouldve been around 6-6 1/2 of degree camber), and on coilovers, plus low PSI, and hard cornering prolly minimized the life of the tires prematurly. yes i couldve flipped the directional tire to the other side and by some time but, with camber you will pay sooner or later. thank goodness for sponsors.
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[QUOTE=Dominik;88656]Bippu, were your tyres aligned to *factory* specs? That seems pretty extreme for only 5 degrees of camber![/QUOTE]
not to factory, for the xB.
[QUOTE=monopolizedinc;89432]BippU- i think youh had more than likely been rubbing something on your xb... strut, coil, inner fender, or something of that sort...
if you had been riding on the side of the tire like that the little bit of tread that is still sorta showing on the corner of the tire would have been toast and the metal mesh would have been showing being that that would have been sticking further down that nthe other two sopts that are worn. look at your fender well and sus. comp. for signs of rubbing.[/QUOTE]
no rubbing whatsoever on any of the components.
with 15x8 0 offset on a xB is agressive to start off with, and then adding another -5 GARSON camber plates (which if i had it measured on a laser scale, prolly wouldve been around 6-6 1/2 of degree camber), and on coilovers, plus low PSI, and hard cornering prolly minimized the life of the tires prematurly. yes i couldve flipped the directional tire to the other side and by some time but, with camber you will pay sooner or later. thank goodness for sponsors.
PANCAKES!;89446 wrote:^^
What brand are you running?
general's man NICE AND CHEAP ;)
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[QUOTE=PANCAKES!;89446]^^
What brand are you running?[/QUOTE]
general's man NICE AND CHEAP ;)
general's suck. theyre really hard with a really soft sidewall. ive had 8 already. 4 bubbles,3 blowouts, and a few deep pits and cracks that surprisingly still hold air. :shrug: you get what u pay for i guess.
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general's suck. theyre really hard with a really soft sidewall. ive had 8 already. 4 bubbles,3 blowouts, and a few deep pits and cracks that surprisingly still hold air. :shrug: you get what u pay for i guess.
The most important thing is to check your toe. Toe kills tires, not camber. Camber just determines where the tires wear. Just make sure you run tires with sidewall reinforcement.
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The most important thing is to check your toe. Toe kills tires, not camber. Camber just determines [I]where[/I] the tires wear. Just make sure you run tires with sidewall reinforcement.
tell that to my cedric
mild camber (less than -5) wont kill you but you will wear as fast, just on a single part of the tire...as you would normally.
my cedric wore out sidewalls before the tread was even broken in
-15ish at drive height i think is what the measurement was with a protractor and a little math and stuff
-20 ish at full down
full down
ride height

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tell that to my cedric
mild camber (less than -5) wont kill you but you will wear as fast, just on a single part of the tire...as you would normally.
my cedric wore out sidewalls before the tread was even broken in
-15ish at drive height i think is what the measurement was with a protractor and a little math and stuff
-20 ish at full down
full down
[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2349/2112752762_83558500a6.jpg[/img]
ride height
[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2311/2238056717_bc425b9da7_b.jpg[/img]
jaynick808;193597 wrote:general's suck. theyre really hard with a really soft sidewall. ive had 8 already. 4 bubbles,3 blowouts, and a few deep pits and cracks that surprisingly still hold air. :shrug: you get what u pay for i guess.
i guess thats just luck of the draw.... i still have a pair of the orig. tires on the car and they are still a few months off from needing replacement, and i have a feeling its mainly due to my inner tie rod thats didn't quite adjust in properly
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[QUOTE=jaynick808;193597]general's suck. theyre really hard with a really soft sidewall. ive had 8 already. 4 bubbles,3 blowouts, and a few deep pits and cracks that surprisingly still hold air. :shrug: you get what u pay for i guess.[/QUOTE]
i guess thats just luck of the draw.... i still have a pair of the orig. tires on the car and they are still a few months off from needing replacement, and i have a feeling its mainly due to my inner tie rod thats didn't quite adjust in properly
Yokotas13;193744 wrote:tell that to my cedric
mild camber (less than -5) wont kill you but you will wear as fast, just on a single part of the tire...as you would normally.
my cedric wore out sidewalls before the tread was even broken in
-15ish at drive height i think is what the measurement was with a protractor and a little math and stuff
-20 ish at full down
full down

ride height

Everytime I see those shots I trip out. Crazy Camber!
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[QUOTE=Yokotas13;193744]tell that to my cedric
mild camber (less than -5) wont kill you but you will wear as fast, just on a single part of the tire...as you would normally.
my cedric wore out sidewalls before the tread was even broken in
-15ish at drive height i think is what the measurement was with a protractor and a little math and stuff
-20 ish at full down
full down
[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2349/2112752762_83558500a6.jpg[/img]
ride height
[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2311/2238056717_bc425b9da7_b.jpg[/img][/QUOTE]
Everytime I see those shots I trip out. Crazy Camber!
No body has mentioned that wheel bearings and cv joints would wear out faster with neg camber. I had a wheel with the hub attached fall off while driving down the highway, luckly the wheel did not hit any body.
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No body has mentioned that wheel bearings and cv joints would wear out faster with neg camber. I had a wheel with the hub attached fall off while driving down the highway, luckly the wheel did not hit any body.
How much camber did you have? Was it definitely due to camber? Or due to regular wear and tear? CV Joints and bearings are pretty obvious when they are starting to fail...
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How much camber did you have? Was it definitely due to camber? Or due to regular wear and tear? CV Joints and bearings are pretty obvious when they are starting to fail...
true...wheel bearing would be pretty damn loud when failing. CV joint I can't see why that would make your wheel fall off.
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true...wheel bearing would be pretty damn loud when failing. CV joint I can't see why that would make your wheel fall off.
cv joints will not wear out any faster with heavy camber... they are made to flex with load and if you look on most cars they have angle built in from the factory
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cv joints will not wear out any faster with heavy camber... they are made to flex with load and if you look on most cars they have angle built in from the factory
Wrong!!!!! go through an axle a year due to the inner joint wearing out due to the messed up angle it has so run at because i dd so low! and yes i do drive a LOT!
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Wrong!!!!! go through an axle a year due to the inner joint wearing out due to the messed up angle it has so run at because i dd so low! and yes i do drive a LOT!
yeah, not ALL joints, but there are some that at the extreme angles some of us run, they are worn out over time. Yes htey are made to bend and conform to factory standards...
not VIP standards
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yeah, not ALL joints, but there are some that at the extreme angles some of us run, they are worn out over time. Yes htey are made to bend and conform to factory standards...
not VIP standards
:biggthumpup: agreed grant. well put.If you really think about it, at least on the rear of my car the outer joint will be at a more neutral angle with more cember simply because the axle shaft is angled up so much and the camber just follows that angle. the inner wears out first. similar thing with a lot of fwd vehicles. especially slammed civics
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:biggthumpup: agreed grant. well put.If you really think about it, at least on the rear of my car the outer joint will be at a more neutral angle with more cember simply because the axle shaft is angled up so much and the camber just follows that angle. the inner wears out first. similar thing with a lot of fwd vehicles. especially slammed civics
Someone really needs to manufacture tires with thick and strong inner treads, and make useless outter treads for excessive negative camber cars.
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Someone really needs to manufacture tires with thick and strong inner treads, and make useless outter treads for excessive negative camber cars.
Pffft... that just means you cant flip your tyres!
What I think we need is tyres with tread on the sidewalls and outtermost 2" the centreband... and slick on the centre portion... lol
Wait, didnt Falken make some tyres that are supposed to be able to be stretched and used with Excessive camber?
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Pffft... that just means you cant flip your tyres!
What I think we need is tyres with tread on the sidewalls and outtermost 2" the centreband... and slick on the centre portion... lol
Wait, didnt Falken make some tyres that are supposed to be able to be stretched and used with Excessive camber?
Hmmm ^^ very interested in this. I have roasted my Yokohamas from running -2.7 in the front on a g coupe. I really need to either back off the camber a little bit
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Hmmm ^^ very interested in this. I have roasted my Yokohamas from running -2.7 in the front on a g coupe. I really need to either back off the camber a little bit
at the end of the day, when the camber is done correctly and for the right reason at the proper ride height, looks soo damn secksy
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at the end of the day, when the camber is done correctly and for the right reason at the proper ride height, looks soo damn secksy
There's always cambered tires but I believe they only camber 2*. Later.
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There's always cambered tires but I believe they only camber 2*. Later.
TastefullyDone;403628 wrote:Hmmm ^^ very interested in this. I have roasted my Yokohamas from running -2.7 in the front on a g coupe. I really need to either back off the camber a little bit
-2.7 ain't nothing, that's nearly within stock setup in a Aristo/Supra. If your tires are getting munched by the road you better go and check your alignment and especially toe, 'coz that's what EATS tires. A good alignment with negative camber only makes your tires wear uneven and a bit slippery because of the diminished contact patch.
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[QUOTE=TastefullyDone;403628]Hmmm ^^ very interested in this. I have roasted my Yokohamas from running -2.7 in the front on a g coupe. I really need to either back off the camber a little bit[/QUOTE]
-2.7 ain't nothing, that's nearly within stock setup in a Aristo/Supra. If your tires are getting munched by the road you better go and check your alignment and especially toe, 'coz that's what EATS tires. A good alignment with negative camber only makes your tires wear uneven and a bit slippery because of the diminished contact patch.
I'm the oddball of the bunch, the the stock camber adjusters on my GS are set as POSITIVE as possible.
In spite of that the front and rear are at about -2.5 due to how low the car is.
I like how aggressive offsets look on cars with minimal camber. It seems less like 'cheating' to me. Don't flame me, it's just my thing.
Also, tires are expensive. For the GS, I buy directional tires so I can flip them occasionally. Basically this doubles the life of the tire.
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I'm the oddball of the bunch, the the stock camber adjusters on my GS are set as POSITIVE as possible.
In spite of that the front and rear are at about -2.5 due to how low the car is.
I like how aggressive offsets look on cars with minimal camber. It seems less like 'cheating' to me. Don't flame me, it's just my thing.
Also, tires are expensive. For the GS, I buy directional tires so I can flip them occasionally. Basically this doubles the life of the tire.
For me, I have been running -3 f and -4 rear. Just checked tires after 30k...fronts are in better shape than rears, with almost no irregular wear.
I have decided the rear springs are too soft and are scrubbing too much from compression....Thats another aspect that should be measured, spring rates in the rear, stiffer rates will prevent pushing toe in during compression.
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For me, I have been running -3 f and -4 rear. Just checked tires after 30k...fronts are in better shape than rears, with almost no irregular wear.
I have decided the rear springs are too soft and are scrubbing too much from compression....Thats another aspect that should be measured, spring rates in the rear, stiffer rates will prevent pushing toe in during compression.
havnt read through this whole thread so it might have been said..but when running front camber your front wheels are a LOT more succeptable to bends.
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havnt read through this whole thread so it might have been said..but when running front camber your front wheels are a LOT more succeptable to bends.
damn thats one mean camber
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damn thats one mean camber
my fed 595s have lasted longer than any other tire
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my fed 595s have lasted longer than any other tire
If you want to run excessive camber, tire wear comes with the territory. I really never understood the need to run such excessive camber/stretch just for looks. If you do and don't mind the wear and possible damage/failure, then be my guest. I'd rather run a functional camber/stretch and not worry everytime I get in the car.....
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If you want to run excessive camber, tire wear comes with the territory. I really never understood the need to run such excessive camber/stretch just for looks. If you do and don't mind the wear and possible damage/failure, then be my guest. I'd rather run a functional camber/stretch and not worry everytime I get in the car.....
If someone is running about -15 degrees all around, obviously tires will need to be replaced very often. And proper toe and caster is needed as well. But, how will that effect the CV axles and other suspension components? Running coils that are built for the VIP platform, and an extremely stiff suspension so suspension travel is at a minimal and change in toe is as well. UCA's and LCA's will be replaced with stronger ones.
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If someone is running about -15 degrees all around, obviously tires will need to be replaced very often. And proper toe and caster is needed as well. But, how will that effect the CV axles and other suspension components? Running coils that are built for the VIP platform, and an extremely stiff suspension so suspension travel is at a minimal and change in toe is as well. UCA's and LCA's will be replaced with stronger ones.