S13/S14 Suspension in your Y33

Sick of looking for Y33 coilovers? not satisfied with the drop or ride quality on the busted coilovers you bought? Want more camber? More adjustability?
 
Why not convert to the more common & inexpensive S-chassis suspension?
 
This info is posted with permission from Grant (YokotaS13) who has just completed the conversion (after a bit of encouragement from me :runcoold: ). Its been done by a few of the Japanese Y33 guys too...
 
[quote]
First you need to get the parts
 
Either obtain ALL s13 or ALL s14 parts... It just makes life easy
1. LCA's
2. Knuckles
3.5lug front hub (came on most S14s, but available as aftermarket parts for S13s)
4. Coil over strut (double-tap preferable)
5. Aftermarket tie-rod ends... S13/14/15/z32 are all the same and fit outer tie rods (optional - ill explain why later)
6. Aftermarket tension rods (might as well right?) S14 work on this instance, I’m sure 13 would as well since they are adjustable. S14 is longer than 13
7. Y33 top hats (adjustable is preferred)
 
ALL BOLT SIZES ARE FROM MY HEAD, IE MIGHT NOT BE ACCURATE
 
 
Ok, the ONLY downside is the sway bar no longer has anywhere to bolt to
I disconnected mine because I didn’t have time
But what ill end up doing is drill a hole through it, and using an s13 sway bar mount bolted directly to it. It won’t be at the exact same mounting points, but I will work.
 
Okokokokok
I’ll get to the actual conversion
1. Remove your brakes from the knuckles, and put them aside somewhere (zip tie helps to hold it up).
 
2. Remove the sway bar vertical bracket, its an internally wrenching bolt, so you need to hold it with an Allen head, then use a 14mm wrench to remove the nut, slide the brace out, and do the same for the bottom, but it’s a 17mm I believe.
 
3. Remove the tension rod bolts to the LCA. Bottom are 14mm, top are Allen (on my application I had tension rods already)
 
4. Loosen the LCA bolt to the sub frame, 19mm on both sides. Take the nut off, leave the bolt to support it.
 
5. Take off the upper suspension top hat nuts, and let it drop. Be sure to hold it so it doesn’t smack you in the nuts like it did me the first time.
 
6. Smack out that LCA bolt and BAM its out. Throw it to the side.
 
7. Put the Y33 top hats on your new coilovers.
 
 
 
[B]OK for installation you need to pay attention to a few things.[/B]
1. Make sure your new coilovers have appropriate springs. When I order my new coilovers soon I’m going with a 12/10 so when I put airbags on it, it will be valved correctly for the stiffness I want. Everyone will be different. 
 
2. Install the hub on the knuckle, and the new tie rod ends onto the tie rod. 
 
3. READ THIS PART******************************
If YOU DO NOT HAVE THE AFTERMARKET TIE ROD ENDS YOU WILL HAVE TO BORE OUT THE BUSHING THAT THE TIEROD SHOULD GO INTO. I DON’T HAVE A MEASUREMENT, I COMPLETELY FORGOT TO WRITE IT DOWN, BUT JUST DREMEL, AND TEST FIT…OVER AND OVER.
 
4. install from reverse
 
5. I recommend LCA first, then tension rod, then tie rod end, and then install the shock to the body, then the knuckle to the shock.
 
6. Install your old brake rotor, and caliper, and put on your wheel after you double check and make sure everything is tightened.
 
Now would be a good time to do a brake upgrade if you want to. I put on GTR calipers with R33 brake rotors. Bolts directly up using the lines that came on the brakes on the gtr.
 
Other than that, it’s fairly straightforward. If you’re not doing hella aggressive driving don’t even worry about the Sway bar in the front. Only reason I am is because I want to track my car next year, so I need it. Also, if you don’t get ABS hubs, you won’t have it. I got NON ABS hubs, because I HATE abs. I don’t like electronics getting in my way of the feel of the road.
 
[U]Regardless ill go with a few meters:[/U]
[B]DIFFICULTY-[COLOR=red]7[/COLOR][/B] mainly because of the common sense needed that a lot of people don’t have. You may have to source hardware if you don’t have it for things like the coilovers mounting on the knuckle. Also if you change your brakes you have to know how to bleed them etc etc. 
 
[B]TIME-[/B] It shouldn’t take you more than [B][COLOR=red]4 hours[/COLOR][/B] from start to finish
It took me 3, and I changed my brakes, bled the entire system, put trust brake fluid in and rebled the whole system, and then installed everything, forgot to change out the springs, dropped the strut to change springs, then the tie rod end didn’t fit so I had to bore it out etc ect.
 
Now get out there and do it!
[/quote]
 
 
One point is that this setup is LOW. Double-tap coilovers are recommended to maintain a "low" stance. Single-tap coilovers will give you a "slammed" stance at the highest setting.
 
 
Info on the rear suspension will come soon. Reports are that S13 struts with S14 tops are a perfect fit.... Watch this space
 
 
I'll be doing this as soon as i can get my hands on the parts required, and should post pics when i get them.
 
 
And before anyone gets a chance to mention it... Yes, S13s are MUCH lighter than the Y33s... BUT, as far as coilovers are concerned, the normal "street" use S-chassis coilover has the [I]same[/I] spring rates as the JIC coilovers for Y33s (F7/R5).

yeah, if you guys have any questoins
feel free to email me
[email]tsispyder97@aol.com[/email] i cant check this site at work

Keep us posted on the rear set up also!!  I am looking into doing the rears and possibly the fronts if I don't pick up jzz30tt's Q. Thanks

Very nice! One question though, when factoring in the cost of all the extra parts needed, is it really worth going this route rather than paying for coils for the Y33? If you can find them of course..

I know there is added benefits with all the new parts, however unless you track the car or run VERY low, going with bolt on coil overs may be a better route for us wanting minimal lowering (2-3 inches and under) and dampening adjustment...

Thoughts?

I am going to get aftermarket caster arms anyway to minimise tyre wear up front, and the aftermarket tie rod ends actually come with a spacer which keeps your tie rod at a proper angle when you are lowered (useful regardless)

All thats left is S13/14 LCAs/Knuckles (which are dirt cheap), and the hubs... The 5-stud ones are a bit harder to find, but yes, it might be easier to get some basic JICs if you just want a 2-3" drop.

This setup might suit some of the guys here who came from drifting backgrounds, who have some old S-chassis suspension lying around, or people with friends that have this stuff.

As for me, I believe i have a 3" drop already, and its pretty much on the bumpstops. This setup would allow me to go much lower, to the point where my framerails are on the ground (then it would be time to get the UAS bags)

[quote=Fast1one;98022]Very nice! One question though, when factoring in the cost of all the extra parts needed, is it really worth going this route rather than paying for coils for the Y33? If you can find them of course..

I know there is added benefits with all the new parts, however unless you track the car or run VERY low, going with bolt on coil overs may be a better route for us wanting minimal lowering (2-3 inches and under) and dampening adjustment...

Thoughts?[/quote]
no, its really not

even at MOST EXPENSIVE
S13 LCA and Knuckle, 20 bucks.....people dont need these things
tension rod-120
tie rod ends-100 bucks
suspension-800-1200
5 lug hub NEW-250

now compare that to the 1500-1800 youll spend on coils that WONT give you the camber alot of people want.
both have teh same springrates, plus its easier to get replacement shocks for s chassis parts.

This mod is for REAL vip enthusiasts, that need the extra camber due to low offset wheels, that need the drop becuase they care about being true to VIP roots.

not for people that want a 2-3 inch drop.

Great job Dom and Grant on sharing this info with the community.

Thanks for the response! Thats kinda what i thought, more for the hardcore enthusiasts.  Personally I can't take it to that extreme, or I would rather not, atleast until I get out of college and have more money to play around with :D

Keep up the good work!

[quote=Yokotas13;98079]no, its really not

even at MOST EXPENSIVE
S13 LCA and Knuckle, 20 bucks.....people dont need these things
tension rod-120
tie rod ends-100 bucks
suspension-800-1200
5 lug hub NEW-250

now compare that to the 1500-1800 youll spend on coils that WONT give you the camber alot of people want.
both have teh same springrates, plus its easier to get replacement shocks for s chassis parts.

This mod is for REAL vip enthusiasts, that need the extra camber due to low offset wheels, that need the drop becuase they care about being true to VIP roots.

not for people that want a 2-3 inch drop.[/quote]

[quote=Dominik;97922]Info on the rear suspension will come soon. Reports are that S13 struts with S14 tops are a perfect fit....[/quote]I can confirm this. I've tested S13 rear coilovers with S14 upper mounts and they will work perfectly on the Y33.

One more question, How low will you be on the highest setting on the s-chassis coils? Just curious, now that you posted up all the prices, its really not all that bad :D

^ agreed. just wondering what type of stance the highest setting will give. Looks like I'll be going with s13 coils with s14 RUCA's, Toe Arms and Upper mounts.....assuming I get my Y chassis soon...:slap:

ok if some one can confirm.. i can use the s13 coils w/o modification up front but what about the rear?

Did you[B] read[/B] the how-to? Its not just plug and play on the front!
 
You need the Y33 upper mounts for the front, and you need to either drill out the steering linkage or get aftermarket tie-rod ends, and also tension (caster rods)
 
The rear on the other hand appears to be almost a direct fit - S13 struts with S14 upper mounts

[quote=implayaz9;98201]ok if some one can confirm.. i can use the s13 coils w/o modification up front but what about the rear?[/quote]
yes you can
go ahead and do it!

[quote=Dominik;98310]Did you[B] read[/B] the how-to? Its not just plug and play on the front!
 
You need the Y33 upper mounts for the front, and you need to either drill out the steering linkage or get aftermarket tie-rod ends, and also tension (caster rods)
 
The rear on the other hand appears to be almost a direct fit - S13 struts with S14 upper mounts[/quote]

shhhhhhhh you can just put em on, dot tell him otherwise

ok
i dont wnat to hear SHIT about hte condition of my car lol

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2363/1668188199_75226550b7.jpg[/img]
this is the front suspension from the ground
adjustibility is Stock height, to the ground.
only thing you ever need to change is MAYBE spring length if you go super low.
I had to change over the S13 to Y33 tophats. other than that, bolt on and go.
I think i put them at like 53CM from the bottom of the tophat to the bottom or something. cant remmeber

here is a comparrison of hte s13 rear shock and the Y33 JIC shock Both fully shortened.
[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2389/1669040038_93ade8cb0a.jpg[/img]

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2342/1668185737_3c7d1332aa.jpg[/img]
as you can see the JIC fully shortened from the bottom of the tophat to the bottom of the hole is like 49.5 CM

the CST with the same measurements is 47.5
[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2045/1668186333_fbba306c59.jpg[/img]
not HUGE but a deffinate difference.

[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2047/1669042412_d29fe8cf6f.jpg[/img]
after its all adjusted, evened out from fender to fender, and ready to go.

so this was the big ooohhh and ahhh about your suspension...pretty dope.

Wow i really like this idea. It seems to me that this will get the car sitting super low. 
Get brand new S14 Knuckles and hubs from InfinitiPartsUSA.com. They resell factory parts cheap compared to the stealership.

So Grant quick question:

The valving on the shocks for an S13/S14 is designed around the spring rate as well as the weight of the vehicle. What i don't understand is how the weight of the vehicle does not play a factor in the suspension. It seems to me that you concluded the the spring rate to be about equal for both the JIC and the CST coilover kit but the valving inside the shock should be different because it was designed to work with the spring rate and the total sprung weight. Now I am guessing this might be a moot point but what kind of duration is the damper going to have before it blows up from the excess weight?

Thanks man let me know what you think about this and how you adressed it. The rest of ya'll can chime in too.

Ugh i typed a bunch of stuff out, and hit back on accident so here is the short version

i didnt acutally buy s13
i bought A31/C33
same setup though says a local shop that i acutally trust (really fucking hard for me to do)
so, short
no the valving shouldnt be too bad
as long as you dont get a shitty ass suspension like tein or something 
I say its shitty, becuase its too soft...

My suspension is stiff enough, for me to drift an automatic with 19s....

Thanks for clarifying that up.

Would the s13 give more of a drop than the s14 since they are shorter in the rear? what about up front? Also, out of the s13 and s14 fronts, is one easier to swap than the other and/or is one preferred over the other for another reason etc? Thanks

S14 will be WAY too long in the rearS13 rears are a bit shorter than the Y33, and will let you get your chassis underground, if you want it that low

The guys in Japan use S14 fronts, because most come with 5 stud hubs alreadyS13 fronts are almost all 4-stud hubs, so you have to get 5-stud hubs for them

So then a combination of s14 fronts and s13 rears would be the most ideal for this then correct?

Yeah thats what i would go for... Of course you could just get a full set of S13 coilovers, and then adapt them to the S14 knuckles/hubs (i believe you can just drill out the hub mounting brackets to fit)

Can we confirm this?? If its true then I will just geta full set of s13's. Thanks
 
I would check on my own cars, but it is being shipped to me tomorrow and I haven't gotten my s14 back from insurance yet so I don't have a Y33 or an s14 to get up under yet.

Ugh
you can make s13 work with s14, but you have to get some spacers to go in the holes or some shit

Search Zilvia, i know its on there

But you CANNOT use s14 rear on the y33

S13 ALL AROUND is perfect, with the addition of S14 tophats rear and y33 front.


But dude, the 13 nad 14 drop are the same
just go s13 all around.
But Supposedly, from what RObbi Nishida told me (falken FD driver) when he was building a Leopard with a Z33 tranny, the S14 knuckles will bolt onto the Y33 LCA balljoint.

so can the y33 calipers be reused?  
 
for those that are interested, here is how the stock y33 front looks
 
[IMG]http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa81/VIP_Imports/DSC00634.jpg[/IMG]
 
[IMG]http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa81/VIP_Imports/DSC00635.jpg[/IMG]

yes they can be reused
they will bolt onto the y33 as well

Q45 calipers are an upgrade for an Schassis guy anyways. so they will fit

Can we get a confirmation?
Will a S14 front spindle/upright bolt directly to the Y33 lower control arm ball joint?

nope the taper is a little different.  Plus you won't be able to run your sway bars once you've done this conversion.

no clue
im the only one that has done it that speaks english.
 
And i dont have s14 stuff
Its kind of dumb to use s14 stuff, mainly becuase hte rear shocks are too long, so why woudl you mix and match?

[quote=nextgear1;135248]nope the taper is a little different. Plus you won't be able to run your sway bars once you've done this conversion.[/quote]
well, you can
just haev to have a bracket made.

can you expound more on the bracket?

do it and you can see :)

its just a steel L bracket

Well we did this and came to a few different problems that might be evident between the JDM and USDM Y33.  The control arms fit but the tension rods don't unless you have aftermarket tension rods. Secondly you will have to purchase S13/14 Front coils as well the top hats from a Q45. The stock top hats will not sit on the S13 factory shock and strut. So make sure you buy Cusco or JIC coilovers as they are the only ownes who make y33 top hats for the front that fit their coilovers. I don't know who else makes coilovers that fit the JIC or Cusco camber plates.  This was done specifically for testing to find out how far the differences are between JDM and USDM models. Good work Grant it was lots of help!

yeah, you HAVE to have aftermarket tension rods
its 100 bucks, go buy soem if you do it again
 
I cant speak for stock
but jic tophats fit everything
from tanabe, to tein.
 
im using JIC tophats right now on my CST coilovers.

but the JIC tophats I have fit nothing but JIC coilovers!

have you tried other coilovers?
 
ive had mine on:
JIC, Tein, HKS, CST, and yashio factory
 
its how i test out the used shocks i sell, i throw them on the front of my car lol

didn't fit the cusco either.  So i got some rear Megan Coilovers for S13 looking for Megan S14 fronts as I plan on beating the shit out of this suspension to test out some stuff.

Just FYI FC RX7 rear coils will work as well but you still have to use S14 rear top hats... if anyone is doing this I have an extra set of rear S14 Cusco top hats... PM me if you need em.
 
Heres how mine came out-
[IMG]http://i37.tinypic.com/169mecp.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i37.tinypic.com/2mdghnq.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i37.tinypic.com/jg5x6g.jpg[/IMG]

^ Top hats are gone as I will be using them shortly....Thanks! by the way, this car looks sick in person
 
Has anyone cut and welded S13 coils to the stock spindle set up instead of swapping to five lugs hubs etc...?

so will my stock brake pads of the cedric fit the s13/14 parts?

sum up and few assurances...

stock s13 control arms will work
any s13/14/15/z32 aftermarket tie rod end. are these to be used with y33 inners?
aftermarket tension rods (preferably s14)
5lug knuckles from s13/14
y33 top hats. where do you buy just the top hats?

from grant...........

how much do they usually run?

[quote=Cedric;173382]Just FYI FC RX7 rear coils will work as well but you still have to use S14 rear top hats... if anyone is doing this I have an extra set of rear S14 Cusco top hats... PM me if you need em.
 
Heres how mine came out-
[IMG]http://i37.tinypic.com/169mecp.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i37.tinypic.com/2mdghnq.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i37.tinypic.com/jg5x6g.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
If you ever want to sell ur car I will buy her

am i correct in only needing the tie rod ends?

[quote=20sburning;227478]If you ever want to sell ur car I will buy her[/quote]
i think he was sellin it a while back but not sure if ever was sold.. i looked into gettin it but couldnt get a loan at the time. he is from tampa and i always see the car at meets

[quote=implayaz_9;227526]i think he was sellin it a while back but not sure if ever was sold.. i looked into gettin it but couldnt get a loan at the time. he is from tampa and i always see the car at meets[/quote]
yeah.. thats the problem with buyin car that didnt come to the U.S. you cant get a loan for them. You just got to have good credit and get a signature loan. always hard to do but well worth it

so am i correct on the only needing aftermarket tie rod ends

i also would love to get this set up in my q but i can fiend any top hats :sad:

pm grant, he can get them for you.

i did but for some reson he never replys. :sad:

I have not looked at it closely, but why cant you redrill the strut towers for the s13/14 coilovers.. they may be off but how much off??

i can get hte Y33 tophats now. 300ish
i was working on geting the best price i could guys.

Tell me when to paypal you grant.

calling tonight o figure out this paypal fiasco

Has anybody tried S13 rear coilovers with top mounts from rear Y33 JIC coilovers?

I did the conversion about 2 or 3 Months ago its running on D2 Coilovers,factory S13 control arms, Ichiba 5 Lug spindle,  SPL Pro Front Tension Rods, SPL Pro Tie Rod ends on the front with custom made Camber Plates. The rear has SPL Pro RUCA's, SPL Pro rear Toe Rods, SPL Rear pro traction rods with Cusco S14 Tophats. Didnt have pics of the rear cause I was working on the front and too lazy to take the wheel of the rear lol. The last pic is of the car sitting on 20" AME Shallen AX isn't even low in the pic I had it lowered more but waiting on getting my fenders rolled to really slam it to the floor. Excuse the cheap coilovers car was originally in NYC and thought they would blow by the time I get to send it to the West Coast and somehow seems they arent pretty bad just a little on the bouncy side on the front but I think its cause its sitting pretty high in the front.
[IMG]http://www.empowrd.com/pics/IMG_0185.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.empowrd.com/pics/IMG_0186.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.empowrd.com/pics/IMG_0187.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.empowrd.com/pics/IMG_0188.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.empowrd.com/pics/IMG_0206.JPG[/IMG]

[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;248438]I have not looked at it closely, but why cant you redrill the strut towers for the s13/14 coilovers.. they may be off but how much off??[/QUOTE]
 i want to know this too, has anyone tried it? I'm about to put my powered by max coils on my Y33 and would like to know, also for the rear can I just use stock Y33 tophats with my PBM coils?

ill know soon. i might redrill mine if they arent too large.

[QUOTE=Shaminii;253239]Has anybody tried S13 rear coilovers with top mounts from rear Y33 JIC coilovers?[/QUOTE]
dude your stock ones willl fit. tophats are only needd for camber adjustment in the front

I've had this conversion on my 97 since around March.  One thing to consider if you're planning to run Universal Air bags on the S-chassis struts, is wheel clearance.  On a 9" wheel, plan on at least a +5 offset, or the lip of the wheel will rub on the bag.  
Other than that, it's a pretty easy swap.  I went cheap and easy and just used KYB AGX struts, since I was going with bags anyway, and I've been very happy with the ride and the drop.
Thank you for posting all of this information on here- I would have been lost without it!

it appears as though you CAN redrill the uppers. just enlargen the holes, and use a large washer.

[QUOTE=fbiphil;272268]I've had this conversion on my 97 since around March.  One thing to consider if you're planning to run Universal Air bags on the S-chassis struts, is wheel clearance.  On a 9" wheel, plan on at least a +5 offset, or the lip of the wheel will rub on the bag.  
Other than that, it's a pretty easy swap.  I went cheap and easy and just used KYB AGX struts, since I was going with bags anyway, and I've been very happy with the ride and the drop.
Thank you for posting all of this information on here- I would have been lost without it![/QUOTE]


will you put up a few pics of your car?

is there a really big diff between the S13 and S14 rear shocks/coilovers? I know they are diff lengths but does it really make a big diff if you ran the S14 rears? or do people do the S14 fronts and S13 rears? I know the S13's would mean you could go lower but could you still run the S14 rears since the top hats just bolt up. Also do people keep there ABS? i know this is the way i want to go but just trying to get all my info straight! thanks for the help!!

Usually you just get a set of S13 coilovers and then get the Y33 Front mounts and S14 Rear mounts the reason you dont mix and match the actual struts is because you wanna be able to bring your rear as low as your front. And as far as ABS I left my whole setup the way it was just changed to Non ABS Calipers and seems to be working as if there isn't any ABS installed.

Selling my S13 conversion setup soon need to get a beater then gonna probally part it out if anyones interested.

if i did the s13 lca and 5 lug hub would i still be able to run my stock brakes?(caliper and rotors). when you disconnect the abs does it affect the car in anyway?pros/cons? thanks for the info!

Well 1st, you don't NEED to do S13 rears, S14's are a direct bolt on. If you chose to do S13, you're either gonna need S14 top hats, or have some hats custom cut for your coils. Its probably easier purchasing a full set of coils for an S13/S14 rather than mixing and matching. 

2ndly, I didn't go this route, so no ABS for me, but I believe it'd be worth researching if you're looking to keep ABS. Some 97-98 S14's had ABS, and their set up is similar to the Y33's sensors. So I'd guess if you chose doing S14 front knuckles, you should be able to pop in you stock sensor into there and keep ABS. Rears have no issues with that since the rears are read off the inner part of the axles.

Only pros with losing ABS for me was, I don't like the car in control of what I'm trying to do, and now can spin tires when going through corners. Cons, loosing ABS loses the ABS and TRAC systems, I believe the ABS, TRAC, and SLIP lights stay lit (I just pulled out the bulbs), if you tend to get into accidents a lot, you may get into more cause you'll be sliding straight into stuff, if you're in places where it snows, it might be worth keeping it just for the TRAC, and if you don't make tabs for your sway bar, you'll lose the sway bar as well.

You can keep the stock Q brakes. Just gotta drill out the whole on your new knuckles a lil bigger, and if you knuckles still have the 240 splash shields, you'll have to either cut it off, or trim away the outer portion of it, to fit the bigger Q rotors, other than that, direct bolt on, just use your stock Q parts.

[QUOTE=EASTSiDE 2 WESTSiDE;296583] And as far as ABS I left my whole setup the way it was just changed to Non ABS Calipers and seems to be working as if there isn't any ABS installed.[/QUOTE]
There are Non ABS calipers. Never heard of that as far as I know, every Y33 had ABS standard.

[QUOTE=EASTSiDE 2 WESTSiDE;296583] Selling my S13 conversion setup soon need to get a beater then gonna probally part it out if anyones interested.[/QUOTE]
And ya probably don't wanna post this in here, try the FS Section. Most likely will see this get deleted :shrug:

Thanks BrokeY33!! That answered alot of my questions!!!

I kind of want to keep the ABS so i might end up going the S14 route. Now since the s14 coils(PBM) are longer than the S13 in the rear will it make a diff in the drop besides just being shorter?

Don't know how much of a difference there is between the S13/S14 PBM coils. A lot of the parts they make are interchangeable between S13 and S14. The coils are about the only thing that is specific to the chassis. So my GUESS is that the bodies are built the same, like damper, springs, and assembled lenghts (short and long), only difference would be the top hats. My guess, I'm not sure, might wanna verify that with Dan. If there is a difference in lengths, then obviously S13 gets you super dumped, and believe, those'll put you lower than you might wanna go =)

Thanks Again for the info Brokey33!! will def look into that! still saving pennies tho!:sad:

[QUOTE=Brokey33;296798]Don't know how much of a difference there is between the S13/S14 PBM coils. A lot of the parts they make are interchangeable between S13 and S14. The coils are about the only thing that is specific to the chassis. So my GUESS is that the bodies are built the same, like damper, springs, and assembled lenghts (short and long), only difference would be the top hats. My guess, I'm not sure, might wanna verify that with Dan. If there is a difference in lengths, then obviously S13 gets you super dumped, and believe, those'll put you lower than you might wanna go =)[/QUOTE]

S14 coils are TOO LONG IMO. You will still be able to get a drop on S14 rears however if you use S13 in the front you would want to avoid a slanty stance. S13 will give you a more significant drop. I stillllllll havent popped on my fronts yet and I'm tempted to redrill as Grant said. Still lazily looking for brakes and I'd be set.

I just put some Z32 calipers with the original Q45 rotors for the Front it bottled right up cheapest alternative besides redrill. Most you have too do is put a washer or 2 on the bolt because its a little longer and hits the rotor otherwise find a nice set paid $250 for front and rear calipers + rotors and the EVO lines for a S13 conversion to Brembos work with them not sure if factory Q45 works

That's on my to-do list, I got out bidded on the set I was trying to get

[QUOTE=uhothepopo;297422]S14 coils are TOO LONG IMO. You will still be able to get a drop on S14 rears however if you use S13 in the front you would want to avoid a slanty stance. S13 will give you a more significant drop. I stillllllll havent popped on my fronts yet and I'm tempted to redrill as Grant said. Still lazily looking for brakes and I'd be set.[/QUOTE]

Well all my parts are installed and I chose all S13 parts.
I wouldn't have chosen any other route than the set up I went with.

[QUOTE=uhothepopo;297422]S14 coils are TOO LONG IMO. You will still be able to get a drop on S14 rears however if you use S13 in the front you would want to avoid a slanty stance. S13 will give you a more significant drop. I stillllllll havent popped on my fronts yet and I'm tempted to redrill as Grant said. Still lazily looking for brakes and I'd be set.[/QUOTE]

how off are the holes if you were to drill so you could use the s13 coils onto the s14 setup? I kinda want to still keep the abs thats why. thx you guys for sharing the info!!:biggthumpup:

Already have the skyline/Z brakes on my current set up ( Y32 coils) and I will be keeping them with my S14 coils.  S14 coils get you plenty low if they are double tap ( height and pre-load separate) as they are still shorter than the Y32/Y33 coils.  In theory they are made for a heavier car than S13's too but that is negligible.  I am hoping to keep my ABS etc etc just because I hate lights on...:smiley-rofl:.  but I got my S14 coils today and should be getting the rest of the stuff from Grant soon.

[QUOTE=dzznuts671;297698]how off are the holes if you were to drill so you could use the s13 coils onto the s14 setup? I kinda want to still keep the abs thats why. thx you guys for sharing the info!!:biggthumpup:[/QUOTE]
 
on the front s13/s14 coils are identical, except that s14's use larger diameter bolts than s13's do

[QUOTE=ni5mo240;297706]on the front s13/s14 coils are identical, except that s14's use larger diameter bolts than s13's do[/QUOTE]

Good to know!! thanks!!

and if any one is installing there setup any time soon could you guys post up pics during the build! sorry but some of us(me) :pat:learn better if pix go along with the build!! haha so i know exactly what im sposed to be looking at! just asking!:shrug:

You can do it man
It's a piece of cake

lol how about taking it off? Can just reverse the pictures to see how its put on I am gonna take flix of me taking the setup apart but its pretty straight forward swapping parts not much customization needed if you have all the parts but I will post pics of how the setup is anyway.

thanks guys!! just trying to get all my info straight so i get the correct parts and what not!! wont be able to do this anytime soon until after my wedding this summer!! Thats where the funds are going at the moment!! but thanks again for sharing the wealth of info!!

Well congrats to that =)

[QUOTE=Brokey33;296601]Well 1st, you don't NEED to do S13 rears, S14's are a direct bolt on. :shrug:[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Yokotas13;110695]

But you CANNOT use s14 rear on the y33

.[/QUOTE]

so which is correct. you both are saying the opposite here, and broke you say you are using s13 all around so how can you be sure if this info :rules:

^ That is from when Grant 1st did it a year or two ago...since then he has figured out that not only will S14 work, but they are probably an easier route since the top hats fit right in and they still get low enough.  If you plan on going super slammed on 18's like he was then you may want to consider the S13 rears...but if you aren't going that extreme the S14 should be great.

^^^^ Homie's got that shit on lock ^^^^
Well said. I've thrown up some S14's in there, and its a direct fit, no mod needed for the rear. If you chose to rock S13's get a spare set of S14 hats or do what I did and have some custom made.

^^ also can get s13 all around if he wants to go super low and buy a set of Y33 tophats, I got mine from Grant

Thats the setup I have S13's all around with y33 Front top hats and S14 Rear top hats. It allows you too go low

Hells yeah it does. Done right, people will think your on bags
I wish mine was low again :sad:

thanks my brothers. just wanted to make sure my info was legit before i took on this little project.

home crashed his s14 and now i get to reap the benefits! power by max here i come! shit rides super low!

i wasn't the lowest dude ever but for daily driving around la at this height you know i wanna go low!
[IMG]http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h10/ale89se/P1030092.jpg[/IMG]

Do it ey, one by one we'll be convertin every Q's suspension into an S chassis suspension

^^^^^Thats what i wanted to hear!! Def going to do the S14 route so i can keep my ABS!! Gonna do PBM all the way!! Thanks guys! and good luck with everyones build!!!

s chassi converion is the way to go, plus in the long run it's cheaper, s13/14 coilovers are waaay cheaper and more abundant than Y33, that's another reason I went this route, plus I had most of the parts laying around

this  makes me wanna not part out my Q but =/ its a 1 seater that kills gas not good daily driver lol. Anyone ever try S13/S14 racing control arms? I know the factory ones work but I always wondered how stiff the ride would get with say Solid Front Lower Arms like SPL Has or even rear ones. I did the whole SPL Tension Rod, Tie Rod End, Rear Upper Control Arms, Rear Toe Rods, Rear Traction Rods.

[IMG]http://www.splparts.com/main4/parts/NissanShared/Suspension/Multilink/SPLFrontLowerArm.jpg[/IMG]

^^^ plus you would be able to get more neg camber

I'm interested in feedback on those too. Didn't need em before, but seein as I want to go wider, I may be needing em. Everything on mine's adjustable aswell, except for front and rear LCAs

how stiff is the ride with all the solid rear end pieces?

Pretty stiff the car feels like it has more control pretty hard to make my rear slide out before the change. Use to fish tail like no tomorrow now with the changed parts it doesnt even have any wheel hop.

Furreals. Feels a lot better. Stiffer. More controlable. Predictable. Comin from your background, you'd probably like it Alex. You're welcome to check out my ride if your ever in my area.

So plenty of people have mentioned that running the s14 will result in the car sitting higher due to the s14 struts being longer than the s13. How much longer are they exactly? I'm 99% sure I'm going to hop aboard this train and so a s-chassis swap, just gotta decide if I wanna go s13 or s14.

[QUOTE=EDWIN;304552]So plenty of people have mentioned that running the s14 will result in the car sitting higher due to the s14 struts being longer than the s13. How much longer are they exactly? I'm 99% sure I'm going to hop aboard this train and so a s-chassis swap, just gotta decide if I wanna go s13 or s14.[/QUOTE]


by higher they mean higher than s13 coils. but still at "top height" for the coilover, you should be lower than a y33 on lowering springs!:biggthumpup:

So guys i'm runing insurance coils on my y33, if one day i wanna do the s chasis convertion, would my insurance top hats fit front/rear right in on  the s13 struts??

Yup, they should if the those top dimensions are the same as the new coils you go with

[QUOTE=Brokey33;304760]Yup, they should if the those top dimensions are the same as the new coils you go with[/QUOTE]
 
 
 
Well i guess lucky me!! i'm saving some money on getting top hats, plus they're adjustable :dance:

[QUOTE=ALEXTHESUS*PECT;304591]by higher they mean higher than s13 coils. but still at "top height" for the coilover, you should be lower than a y33 on lowering springs!:biggthumpup:[/QUOTE]

good to know, alex. I plan on running UAS in the future and like everyone else, would love to be able to go LOW. At that point I wonder if that extra length will make a big difference...

[QUOTE=ALEXTHESUS*PECT;304591]by higher they mean higher than s13 coils. but still at "top height" for the coilover, you should be lower than a y33 on lowering springs!:biggthumpup:[/QUOTE]

One day the wifey took the Q to work at max height, and a lady there told her the car looked dumped and didn't know how she could drive it so low. My girl LOL'd and told her "Oh, no. That's the highest it goes, that's not even dumped" hahahahaha I :smiley-rofl: when she told me that

This is probably one of the best threads I've ever read through on this forum in all the time I've been around, so thanks to y'all for all the info and feedback but I still got a few quetions......I'm thinkin about probably adding a few of these parts to my setup and was wonder, what are the best brands to buy and which to stay away from? I've heard a fair share of horror stories about some of these cheaper brands where parts get tweaked easy or brake, etc. SO Jus lookin for feedback on what you guys use, how is it holding up under extreme conditions (everyday driving), etc....thanks! And kept the good info coming!
:biggthumpup:

Go PBM, ya know where they at?? Dan will take care of ya

Powered by Max?! Down the street from me?! HAhahaha....ya fam that's the stuff I heard bad things about. I heard it was pretty cheap quality, well not that cheap but cheap enough to hear about parts breaking under heavy stress.......sounds scary to me but I dunno. It is cheap and local...

What other brands are out there that are ood and trusted?
I know of all the baller ones from Japan, which I don't mind going that route =)
Jus shopping around to see wha else....

Whaaattt
Nah, my ride, dumped, takes a gang of abuse, daily. Well it did till i started doin more work to it again. now it's sittin or bricks collecting dust.
I ain't never had problems with them on my Q. But then, as far as i know, I'm the only one rockin it on a Q
Anyone else got em??

interesting cause they have the inserts cheap like 100 bucks or so?

[QUOTE=Brokey33;306490]Whaaattt
Nah, my ride, dumped, takes a gang of abuse, daily. Well it did till i started doin more work to it again. now it's sittin or bricks collecting dust.
I ain't never had problems with them on my Q. But then, as far as i know, I'm the only one rockin it on a Q
Anyone else got em??[/QUOTE]

Mine takes a daily abuse everyday as well soo that's good to know!
How long have you had it on there and let e know if you ever have issues!
I mean I live less than 5min from their shop and it's down the street from AF so if sumthin goes wrong it shouldn't be a problem to hittem up ya dig!

Fursure
Well I did my swap back in summer. Since then, like 3-4 trips to SD, a gang out to LA and OC, driven it hard through mountain passes, and mess around slidin it in the rain. It's all good here, but when my luck runs out, I'll keep ya posted

A really good friend of mine competes in the evergreen drift series here, and he has all the suspension you possibly can think of from powered by max.. He goes to every event possible and in oregon and california. That is the true test right there. So far nothing but awesomeness. Which brings me to using them on my s14 when it ever it gets to that stage again

so i've read through this whole thread and never stumbled upon anything rear link related. 

i am just about to pick up a complete set of jic s14 adjustable arms for the rear. would all 3 links fit on my y33?

Control Arms, Toe Rods, Traction Rods bolt right up from a S13 well aftermarket ones. I had SPL Parts on a Y33 and gotta say those are GREATTTTTTTTTTTT quality got a S13 with PBM it looks almost the same quality as the SPL but looks can be deceiving. S14 might work also just not really sure about fitment.

My friend is about to get s13 kw and go uas on it... 

any ideas from you guys on the height, and ride ?   this is his third suspension set up on the Q, 

He just installed tein S-13 just coils and the highest he can go is pretty low so he is changing it up

[QUOTE=PANCAKES!;306199]This is probably one of the best threads I've ever read through on this forum in all the time I've been around, so thanks to y'all for all the info and feedback but I still got a few quetions......I'm thinkin about probably adding a few of these parts to my setup and was wonder, what are the best brands to buy and which to stay away from? I've heard a fair share of horror stories about some of these cheaper brands where parts get tweaked easy or brake, etc. SO Jus lookin for feedback on what you guys use, how is it holding up under extreme conditions (everyday driving), etc....thanks! And kept the good info coming!
:biggthumpup:[/QUOTE]

as mentioned oscar, pbm is the place for you. drifted on these arms, and have no problem putting these in the rear of the q! plus dan is type of guys, should anything happen to brake, i'm sure they would stand behind all their stuff, and most likely replace it!

i won;t have it all done by this weekend so no q at irwindale. you coming up for the show?

[QUOTE=VipDout;307427]My friend is about to get s13 kw and go uas on it... 

any ideas from you guys on the height, and ride ?   this is his third suspension set up on the Q, 

He just installed tein S-13 just coils and the highest he can go is pretty low so he is changing it up[/QUOTE]


so for him highest setting was too low for him? do he have any pics for others to see?

with the current set up no ...

it was on an air company but t was wack and blew .. we can say hes at -7 degrees with all the suspension changed out to S-13 I will keep ya updated and see what he has

[QUOTE=ALEXTHESUS*PECT;307428]as mentioned oscar, pbm is the place for you. drifted on these arms, and have no problem putting these in the rear of the q! plus dan is type of guys, should anything happen to brake, i'm sure they would stand behind all their stuff, and most likely replace it!
 
i won;t have it all done by this weekend so no q at irwindale. you coming up for the show?[/QUOTE]
 
Koo, I'll look into seeing if this will work w/ my airrunner set up. I was actually bord on sat and drove by there because I live close and can do that Hhahaha but they were closed. I'll check em out sometime though..... 
 
That's a no go for D1. I'm broke and having tire issues otherwise I'd be there......
 
Your stance is lookin good though, judging by your sig Alex good stuff :biggthumpup:

I run Cusco arms on mine and LOVE them.  I will be doing the swap to S14 coils soon as I am on Y32 coils right now.  I just need to get LCa for the fronts and then get off my ass and do it already!

i am currently running on cut s14 springs and its dropped on stock shocks which are blown now. all of them. the ride is really bouncy too bouncy. What do i need to fix this whole thing?

by stock shocks, do you mean s14 or y33? 

most cost effective fix would be to reread this htread, pick the s13/s14 coils and arms, which ever is cheaper and more available to you, and swap it out!

better stance with height and camber control! win win win!

coilovers or atleast lowering springs with new shocks cause if your running a Q with Cut S14 springs thats just bad the weight is too much for those shocks thats why it probably blew.

No shock will last long on cut S14 springs...they barely last on full S14 springs.  Y33 springs with stock Y33 shocks will work and y33 springs with kyb specials would be better.  If you want to use S chassis stuff then coilovers is were you need to go...as this whole thread is about.

i was thinking about doing the conversion. but i can get my hands on the kyb specials and insurance springs faster. Do insurance springs give the car a drop or do i have to cut them? Will the kyb specials last long with insurance springs on? sorry for all the questions im trying to make sure i get everything right before i spend money on everything

Insurance springs will give the car a 2" drop all around.

I'm determined to go s14 lca/spindle and s13 coils...the problem is finding the 5lug/lca/spindle w/abs for a good price. They get swooped up on zilvia so quick. If anyone knows of any pm me

Oh and I also stand behind the SPL stuff. Nothing but high quality parts from them

ok well i bought the s14 jic arms and mocking them up ( not bolting them in) they look to be the same length as y33 arms, i havent tried to run bolts through them tho. hope this info helps others

[QUOTE=67rs;307924]ok well i bought the s14 jic arms and mocking them up ( not bolting them in) they look to be the same length as y33 arms, i havent tried to run bolts through them tho. hope this info helps others[/QUOTE]

which arms?

[QUOTE=EDWIN;307683]Insurance springs will give the car a 2" drop all around.

I'm determined to go s14 lca/spindle and s13 coils...the problem is finding the 5lug/lca/spindle w/abs for a good price. They get swooped up on zilvia so quick. If anyone knows of any pm me[/QUOTE]
go to a junkyard. it's stock and almost always still in the shells. then just get 5 lug hubs if you didn;t get it from the junkyard!

Yeah, that's what I plan on doing if I can't find any on zilvia. It's probably a good idea to buy new hubs w/new bearings in them anyways. Did I mention I'm pretty lazy haha

[QUOTE=ALEXTHESUS*PECT;307925]which arms?[/QUOTE]

traction, toe, ruca

[QUOTE=EDWIN;307684]Oh and I also stand behind the SPL stuff. Nothing but high quality parts from them[/QUOTE]

I second that I had all SPL stuff and sold it to someone in the Bay and I used them for a bit and no damage, bend or any stress marks that stuff lasts.

Great info!  How's the ride quality with the s chassis setup or did someone cover this already?  people say stiff, is it pretty bad stiff or good stiff?  I don't want it to be like my previous cars where you hit a small bump and it feels like someone slammed your dash.  I have the Zeal street coilover suspension and i'd say that's pretty bouncy at the highest/stiffest setting. My goal for the Y is to be a lil stiff to get rid of the body roll w/ a semi comfy luxury ride and I'll most likely go air later. 


Thanks!

Ya better just save up for thei air now then if you want a comfy ride

Finally found myself a set of abs s14 5 lug hub and spindles. Woohoo

Now I gotta order the s14 balljoints

napa usually has Moog s14 ball joints in stock

Thanks ni5mo, that saves me from having to get them shipped from pdm

I ordred my s14 ball joints from rockauto and they shipped fast.

I will also have a pair of 5 lug hubs with extended studs for sale soon. found a set of 5 lugs hubs in the spindle i bought instead.

Good to know

this sounds difficult...but maybe I'm just reading into it too much. The y33 I'm looking at already has Espelir springs and s14 RUCA (I believe)...Just seems like a lot more effort and hassle of finding, buying, installing parts rather than just buying a set of y33 coilovers? Please enlighten me if I am wrong because I will be dropping the car on coilovers instead of air. I'm an s-chassis guy and have many friends so the install/sourcing parts hopefully wouldn't be too hard but just seems a hassle.

Edit: Also trying to find a decent price coilover for the y33 without spending $2500 on JICs'

Just get you some c/o's made for a Y33 and be done with it. It will ride better because they'll be sprung and valved for a car that's over a thousand pounds heavier.

I just ordered a set of Battle Version S14 tension rods though.  I pressed in new OEM bushings about 3 years ago and they're leaking again, so screw it, solid heim-joints, here I come!

[QUOTE=gh0st;310880]this sounds difficult...but maybe I'm just reading into it too much. The y33 I'm looking at already has Espelir springs and s14 RUCA (I believe)...Just seems like a lot more effort and hassle of finding, buying, installing parts rather than just buying a set of y33 coilovers? Please enlighten me if I am wrong because I will be dropping the car on coilovers instead of air. I'm an s-chassis guy and have many friends so the install/sourcing parts hopefully wouldn't be too hard but just seems a hassle.

Edit: Also trying to find a decent price coilover for the y33 without spending $2500 on JICs'[/QUOTE]

MOAR LOWER! nuff said. 

And it is cheaper in the end. It is a hassle though. I have all the parts randomly assorted through my house and trunk all i need is my brakes and some effort and I will be set. If you want to source y33 coils the cheapest I have seen them here are 1600(used)+. Once the swap is done everything will be easy peasy to replace and source parts for.

[quote]
Edit: Also trying to find a decent price coilover for the y33 without  spending $2500 on JICs'[/quote]

Look on Yahoo Japan auctions, and hit up Grant on here (Yokotas) and you can get new or used all day long for under 2k.  Very often you can find used sets that look decent for about 1k plus Grants fee / shipping, you got a deal.

So I attempted this today and I have to say it is a lil more of a PIA if you don't get the S14 LCA. Trying to get the Y33 BJ out was a BITCH. rented a ball joint press from vatozone and the shit still was not working with me. Also ended up getting semi full tap S14 coils. That was my mistake thinking they were full tap. The bottom mount adjusts but only so much then come to a stop.
Tanabe Sustec Pro Seven is the fronts I purchased. They quite a bit short so you may need to remove the sway bar completely. Not sure if that was noted here. The LCA BJ was pretty much my hold up as I had to find alternative ways to get the bitch out.

If you have the time and patients then this is a good route. But depending on the condition of your vehicle Y33 Coils maybe better due to less of a headache. MY car just happened to be a PIA and have rusted seized bolts everywhere.

One interesting point is Are Y33 TC Rods typically slightly bent? My first time looking into Y33 suspension and I was freaking out thinking the car was jacked but both sides are slightly bent.

The BJ's are sorta a bitch to get out, but with the proper tools, they'll pop off very easily

And its been a while since I seen the stock tension rods, but I think they are bent LOL good point

Yeah I checked a few sites for OEM pics and they are slightly bent. Sucks I bought Aftermarket Rods but the end that bolts to the tc rod bracket is too wide so I had to to put the stockies back in.

WTF too wide?? 
Where the part of the rod has the joint??
Did ya snap any pics of it while you were trying to fit it??

so jut to clarify AGAIN, i'm sorry i have a finals this week and next and about to do the swap soon, but i only need after market outer tie rods and the stock inners?

I used my old S13 Tein inner and outers. 
You're doin S14 parts right?? 
I'd use S14 since you're knucles are S14 and ya want the taper on the outer BJ to match the knucles, unless you can verify the Y33 BJ has the same dimensions as an S14 BJ, then you can still use stock

i think s13/14 ends work fine. it's the ball joint that you need to replace depending on the spindle but i would definately get s14 lca as it is much easier to swap and the only benefit on keeping the Y33 LCA is the track doesn't change.

No I didn take any pics but i maybe able to shave a little off the edges to fit them. I bought the same brand for the G50 and had no problems. I maybe under there today so I will try.

Yeah, I was gonna suggest the same thing, to cut/shave it. As long as the length's cool, you'll be straight

Hopefully. I just thought it was strange that the OE rods are slightly bent. but i guess that doesn't matter with pillow ball rods.

This is starting to look like more of a headache than I want to tackle right away. I'm not needing all the adjustment as I don't plan on running crazy offsets and camber.

It's not a headache really you just have to make sure you have all the right parts.

Question for anyone that has S13 Coils on Y33's:

If you're using entry level coilovers with the springs they came with (8kg, 6kg, etc.) do ever feel that [I]stiffer[/I] springs are needed?  Do you feel that 8kg springs up front aren't stiff enough?  Anyone bottoming out?  I'm ready to start ordering parts but need some info first!  Thnks

Outta all the spring combo's I've tried (so far) I like my current set up at F12kg/R8kg.  Only reason I've stopped there is cause that's the most my current front dampers can work with, anything harder would throw off the balance with the rears, and also would need new dampers valved higher. These rates let my slam the ride, yet still keeps the car from bottomin out and rides even.

so whats the highest spring rate you recommend on s13 coils? 
with out breaking the seals on the valves?

I am on S13 coils
But in general, depends on the manufacturer. 
PBM comes standard with F10kg and R8kg. I think most others come with F8kg/R6kg. 
After talkin to Dan, he said PBM's dampers can handle +/- 2kg difference. The Front comes with 10kg, so it can handle running anythin from 8kg-12kg, same rules apply to the rear, makin em 6kg-10kg. Anything +/- those ranges would require new dampers. 
As far as other brands go, it'd be best to get a hold of a rep there, and seein what theirs can handle before needin to revalve, or swap damper's if they can't be revalved
I know its a lot, hopefully it makes sense, LMK if not =)

I've hit up BC Racing and they seem really nice and easy to work with.  I talked to the rep and asked if I could get S14 coilovers, but S13 rear cartridges.  He said it wouldn't be a problem.  Also, the S13 cartridges are about 5" shorter than the S14's.  
He also said higher rate springs is not a problem at all.  
I'm planning on going with their coilovers, for sure.

to get to the rear suspension for the coilover install did you go through the trunk or back seat?

Trunk, just remove that backin and you got instant access from behind (no homo)

So I'm guessing it's common practice for Y33 w/ s-chassis suspension owners to swap out springs for stiffer ones.  I'm looking at 12kg, 10kg now.  Thanks

Yeah that seems to be the common thing. But you can get Y33 coils with the same srping rates as S13/14 8kg 6kg.

I just guess the stiffer spring rate is to help make up for the shorter stroke.

The rears are cake. S14 bolts straight on no if ands or buts.

Exactly right, and it mostly helps if you're dumped. 
Don't wanna be scrapin everytime the car comes down at its lowest point due to suspension travel. If you're just lookin to lower the car, then what it comes with might be good enough

Broke, with that setup how much more height adjust ability do you have? can you raise the car more if you needed to?
I switched to stock S14 suspension for now. The ones I had weren't full tap so they were very limited.

^^^ true, most Y33 coilovers come with 6/8 spring rates

This was my old stance (and that was still higher than where I'm at right now LOL)
[IMG]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_yTr40MAMZU8/S2j57mrS2FI/AAAAAAAAAVM/d7A9kRyjIKo/s800/Side1.JPG?source=androidclient[/IMG]

And this was the highest I could take my car and on stock wheels
[IMG]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_yTr40MAMZU8/S2j5_tIsS-I/AAAAAAAAAWA/SIFJPKnpO2w/s800/IMG_0411.JPG?source=androidclient[/IMG]
Cleared speed bumps like that with no problem hahaha Probably rasied it around 3-4 inches. My highest there was probably lower than most lowering springs go

you did have some adjustability. Just wondering. With the Z32 coilovers on the G50, at max height the coilovers would go the car was still slammed. So I was just wondering.

Yeah, I was able to raise it like 3-4 inches

coils.....check
lca's......chck
knuckles.......check
hubs........check


:saiyancrunks:tie rods....... last fuckin pieces!

S chassis conversion FTW!!!

Where do i locate y33 camber plates for the s14 conversion?

Yahoo Japan or Upgarage. There are a few floating around for sale stateside as well. I am thinking of having some machined to work with the buddy club s13 plates I have now.

[QUOTE=crooks;322778]Where do i locate y33 camber plates for the s14 conversion?[/QUOTE]


[URL]http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v103679017[/URL]
[IMG]http://f07batchimg.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/0/1/6/8/taemami2000-imgbatch_1231464727/300x239-2009010600001-64.jpg[/IMG]

:biggthumpup:

hey guys i've been reading about the s-chassis conversion on the q and i am pretty much leaning towards going thru with this for my Y33 that i picked up earlier this year. but i have a nub question haha was wondering if the Y33 q45 can run S15 coilovers. just a thought.

yes, just not rear. Some how all my coilovers i got over the years have been from s15s, that I ran on my s14. Like stated, the rears wont work fronts are same as 14. nothing different about them really

Dammnit, I need to get some LCA's so I can finally do this and get rid of my Y32 coils!  I have everything else already.

Ok so I read through the last 9 pages and there was just a lot of information being passed around and a lot of back and forth on what works and what doesnt. I know this is the setup I plan to run and I got that s14 coils in rear bolt right up and s13 coils in rear need s14 tophats. What else needs to be swapped out in the rear of the q from the s chassis. If running s13 all the way around you lose ABS and trac, right? Brakes need to be replaced or no? Sorry for all the questions. I am just wanting to start sourcing out parts and am a bit lost at the moment. If you wanna just shoot me a PM with the breakdown that would be awesome. Thanks!

[QUOTE=ALEXTHESUS*PECT;323342][URL]http://page17.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/v103679017[/URL]
[/QUOTE]

thank you alex, but i was wondering since i can't read Japanese how do i go about ordering a set? and will it be universal to most s14 coilovers?

[QUOTE=lowlifeY33;325364]Ok so I read through the last 9 pages and there was just a lot of information being passed around and a lot of back and forth on what works and what doesnt. I know this is the setup I plan to run and I got that s14 coils in rear bolt right up and s13 coils in rear need s14 tophats. What else needs to be swapped out in the rear of the q from the s chassis. If running s13 all the way around you lose ABS and trac, right? Brakes need to be replaced or no? Sorry for all the questions. I am just wanting to start sourcing out parts and am a bit lost at the moment. If you wanna just shoot me a PM with the breakdown that would be awesome. Thanks![/QUOTE]

Then re-read it again. The answers to your questions are in this thread.
Most from the post that quoted Yokotas write up.

To Burgy:
Just buy the BJ and have them pressed in to your Y33 LCA's. If you never plan on going back to Y33 Suspension.

thnx.

[QUOTE=crooks;325463]thank you alex, but i was wondering since i can't read Japanese how do i go about ordering a set? and will it be universal to most s14 coilovers?[/QUOTE]
 vendors on here an order for you, like jdmpalace and elite.
 
:biggthumpup:

[QUOTE=ALEXTHESUS*PECT;325734]vendors on here an order for you, like jdmpalace and elite.
 
:biggthumpup:[/QUOTE]

got'cha thanks!

Regarding whether to use either S13 or S14 coilovers in the rear, I've come across various contradicting answers.  I think somebody needs to update the very first post. People say that S14 coilovers are too long but if they are adjustable, they should be able to get low, correct? Either way, I think I plan on getting Megan Racing Track Series coilovers for the S14 that come with 12k and 10k springs. Anybody have experience with those on the Q45. I know the 240 guys complain that they are too stiff for street but their cars are much lighter. 

[QUOTE=Yokotas13;285550]s13 are too short.
s14 coilovers wll work just fine[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Dominik;109710]S14 will be WAY too long in the rearS13 rears are a bit shorter than the Y33, and will let you get your chassis underground, if you want it that low
[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Yokotas13;110695]Ugh
But you CANNOT use s14 rear on the y33

S13 ALL AROUND is perfect, with the addition of S14 tophats rear and y33 front.

But dude, the 13 nad 14 drop are the same
just go s13 all around.
[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Brokey33;296601]Well 1st, you don't NEED to do S13 rears, S14's are a direct bolt on. If you chose to do S13, you're either gonna need S14 top hats, or have some hats custom cut for your coils. Its probably easier purchasing a full set of coils for an S13/S14 rather than mixing and matching.
 [/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=burgy;297702]S14 coils get you plenty low if they are double tap ( height and pre-load separate) as they are still shorter than the Y32/Y33 coils. In theory they are made for a heavier car than S13's too but that is negligible. [/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Damicci;313845]The rears are cake. S14 bolts straight on no if ands or buts.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;324261]yes, just not rear. Some how all my coilovers i got over the years have been from s15s, that I ran on my s14. Like stated, the rears wont work fronts are same as 14. nothing different about them really[/QUOTE]

S14 rear bolts on and are a good length. If you want to go really low, that will depend on the maker.

The front information is correct.

so if i do the s13 suspension conversion, i will lose the ABS and traction controll correct?
 
i'm guessing the ABS and VCS light will blinking and i have to take out the bulbs right?

[QUOTE=Superstar-Q45;332954]so if i do the s13 suspension conversion, i will lose the ABS and traction controll correct?
 
i'm guessing the ABS and VCS light will blinking and i have to take out the bulbs right?[/QUOTE]
 
correct, your tcs and abs light will illuminate, I did s14 with abs on mine and it works fine

if you wanna go s13 here are ALL the parts you need......
[URL]http://zilvia.net/f/sale-items/346136-tons-s13-parts.html[/URL]
[IMG]http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac169/shift_cory1/Picture105.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i896.photobucket.com/albums/ac169/shift_cory1/Picture077.jpg[/IMG]

but you will need 5 lug hubs from ichiba.

I just need LCA's and I am ready to do this...I think:smiley-rofl:

^^^Stock lca with s-chassis ball joints = more camber!!

^Stock Q LCA's?? I was looking for S14's??

Yessir, that's. How I did mine, nuust link ni5mo said

Doin so, the Y33 LCA will keep the cars track width the same, and swappin it the S14 LBJ will allow it to fit into the the knuckles properly. 

I know for a fact the difference between S13 and Y33 LCA's is at least an inch. Everythin was hella sunk when I had S13 LCA's. 
Can someone verify if S14 and Y33 LCA's have the same lenghts?? IIRC they are supposed to be the same, if not they may be off by a lil bit. Deff not nearly as bad as S13's

so does this mean that i'll be able to keep my modded y33 flca's by adding an s14 LBJ when i decide to go s13/4 setup? awesome news :D

Sure does, good thing for you homie

[QUOTE=Brokey33;351241]Sure does, good thing for you homie[/QUOTE]

yeah buddy. btw, all that shit's going to be done on tuesday, i think. i'm super excited. i'll send you some photos during and after haha

Sick =)
And you're gonna fit the new wheels and have it aligned??

[QUOTE=Brokey33;351258]Sick =)
And you're gonna fit the new wheels and have it aligned??[/QUOTE]

yeah man, i'm excited. we're putting in new springs, and we're going to take care of the ride height issues. hopefully i can get the fronts down to where i'd like them to be (maybe 1.5"-2" lower?), then align that shit (hopefully i can get by with less than 8.5* camber in the rear) and then it'll be ready to roll. one wheel is still totally messed up though, but i'll be happy just to have the stance dialed in for vip fest.

[QUOTE=Brokey33;351215]Yessir, that's. How I did mine, nuust link ni5mo said
 
Doin so, the Y33 LCA will keep the cars track width the same, and swappin it the S14 LBJ will allow it to fit into the the knuckles properly. 
 
I know for a fact the difference between S13 and Y33 LCA's is at least an inch. Everythin was hella sunk when I had S13 LCA's. 
Can someone verify if S14 and Y33 LCA's have the same lenghts?? IIRC they are supposed to be the same, if not they may be off by a lil bit. Deff not nearly as bad as S13's[/QUOTE]
 
Wouldn't a shorter track width allow for a lower offset wheel though?  Any particular reason anyone would want to keep the Y33 LCA other than if you had already modded your stock one or if you already had your wheels fitting the way you wanted them?

[QUOTE=LS14;351439]Wouldn't a shorter track width allow for a lower offset wheel though? Any particular reason anyone would want to keep the Y33 LCA other than if you had already modded your stock one or if you already had your wheels fitting the way you wanted them?[/QUOTE]
 If you keep the upper pivot point (pillowball mounts) the same and make the lower control arms longer, you will increase negative camber.  You can probably run the same offset/width with a shorter LCA with less camber.  
 
I personally picked up a set of S13 LCA's with knuckles locally for a mega-low price.  I've had the S14 ABS knuckles for a little while.  Just have to scoop up hubs.  :biggthumpup:  I'll probably run spherical bearings with a 3/4" grade 8 bolt for the lower ball joint.  I may ultimately even build my own lowers.  We'll see.  I have a good friend that does a lot of tubing work.

I read on another thread that you need JDM s14 or 300zx brakes and conversion lines for this. Can someone confirm this. This isn't even mentioned on the first post.

[QUOTE=Brokey33;351215]Yessir, that's. How I did mine, nuust link ni5mo said

Doin so, the Y33 LCA will keep the cars track width the same, and swappin it the S14 LBJ will allow it to fit into the the knuckles properly. 

I know for a fact the difference between S13 and Y33 LCA's is at least an inch. Everythin was hella sunk when I had S13 LCA's. 
Can someone verify if S14 and Y33 LCA's have the same lenghts?? IIRC they are supposed to be the same, if not they may be off by a lil bit. Deff not nearly as bad as S13's[/QUOTE]

yeah, def shorter. the s14 ar eonly 10mm longer each side than s13

stock brakes work just fine.
but with stock you need to drill out the knuckle a little to fit the larger brake bolts, or you can run s14/300zx brakes with no drilling.

Has anyone tried redrilling the strut towers to fit s13/s14 coilovers? I might try going this route as I'm on a budget and this shit adds up quickly.
 
Here's my plan:
s13 PBM coilovers
s14 rear shock mounts
stock y33 control arm with s14 lower ball joints
s14 5 lug w/ abs (I want to keep traction control for ny winters)- Can anyone confirm that I wont lose abs like this?
s14 knucles
s14 aftermarket outer tie rods
s14 aftermarket tension rods
 
Would that work?
and then I was gonna redrill the front strut towers or make custom camber plates...

[QUOTE=Ollie;373895]Has anyone tried redrilling the strut towers to fit s13/s14 coilovers? I might try going this route as I'm on a budget and this shit adds up quickly.
 
Here's my plan:
s13 PBM coilovers
s14 rear shock mounts
stock y33 control arm with s14 lower ball joints
s14 5 lug w/ abs (I want to keep traction control for ny winters)- Can anyone confirm that I wont lose abs like this?
s14 knucles
s14 aftermarket outer tie rods
s14 aftermarket tension rods
 
Would that work?
and then I was gonna redrill the front strut towers or make custom camber plates...[/QUOTE]

since you're almost there, why not just get the correct front camber plates? if you can't afford that, it might be cheaper for someone to waterjet a new aluminum plate for you -- i remember brokey33 did that for super cheap front and rear

problem is the s14 are smaller than the y33, if they were larger it wouldnt be a problem

if you just took a piece of steel and drilled hte holes and bolted up instead of a camber plate it would work, but your have no camber adjustment. thats the easiest way to do it

[QUOTE=Shaminii;359147]I read on another thread that you need JDM s14 or 300zx brakes and conversion lines for this. Can someone confirm this. This isn't even mentioned on the first post.[/QUOTE]
yes you do if you go to a non sliding caliper

[QUOTE=cheez80;373899]since you're almost there, why not just get the correct front camber plates? if you can't afford that, it might be cheaper for someone to waterjet a new aluminum plate for you -- i remember brokey33 did that for super cheap front and rear[/QUOTE]Where can I get y33 camber plates? Theyd be going on PBMs. I'd like to do it right the first time around if I can

so s14 rear pillows bolt right up to our chassis? no need to buy y33 rear pillows, correct me if im wrong.

about the front i can run s13/14's coils with y33 camber plates so i dont have to mod the shock towers. 

a question i havent seen posted can i run the y33 frt upper camber plates on any coilover? what about piston dia?

any input would help.

Concerning S14 knuckles, they make different knuckles for the S14. There is a difference between up March of 97 and then April 97 and then there was a difference after May of 97. Does anybody know if this will make a difference or I should buy a certain year of production knuckle? I am running S13 coilovers, aftermarket tension rods, tie rods, Q45 factory lower control arm with S14 ball joint and stock Q45 brakes.

[QUOTE=Shaminii;374087]Concerning S14 knuckles, they make different knuckles for the S14. There is a difference between up March of 97 and then April 97 and then there was a difference after May of 97. Does anybody know if this will make a difference or I should buy a certain year of production knuckle? I am running S13 coilovers, aftermarket tension rods, tie rods, Q45 factory lower control arm with S14 ball joint and stock Q45 brakes.[/QUOTE]

The later ones are abs compatible I believe. Good question tho. I'm in the same boat

Both my 95 and 98 240sx were ABS. I don't think the year of the S14 makes a difference since companies don't make separate suspension parts for the S14. But I'd like to make sure, just in case.

all the same, no diff.

[QUOTE=SFL_TOASTER;374022]so s14 rear pillows bolt right up to our chassis? no need to buy y33 rear pillows, correct me if im wrong.

about the front i can run s13/14's coils with y33 camber plates so i dont have to mod the shock towers. 

a question i havent seen posted can i run the y33 frt upper camber plates on any coilover? what about piston dia?

any input would help.[/QUOTE]
most of what you asked has been answered many times, but for the camber plate question the short answer is yes and no.

meaning most camber plates seem to slide on and coilovers, but the problem may be the bolt that holds it all down. they don't all work together.

i know that just gives more questions as to specifically what works and what doesn;t, but there is a good side to these companies making y33 specific coils. so i have been told that megan top hat and coils match and pbm top hat and coils do the same.
meaning that you could run s13/14 coilovers and the y33 top hat with 100% fitment.

Can I use stock s14 rear tophats with s13 coils? Or can I only use aftermarket tophats?

you can use your stock y33 rear tophats...im using them on my stance GR+ coils right now, 
 
also if im not mistaken, i read here somewhere that you can drill out the s13 knuckle on the balljoint hole to make it slightly larger to fit y33 balljoint?