POWER WIRE:
Alright, for the power wire the pics I will post below pretty much show you where to run it. Going through the firewall is cake, even with the heatercore in the way. The pieces I removed when i did this were as follows:
- Panel under the glove box. (It just slides out. Remember to un hook the foot well light and remove the clip holding on another wire, no need to unplug it.)
- Panel covering the ECU. ( For me there was one bolt/screw near the door weather stripping, then i just pulled on it to remove it. there is one retaining clip.)
- Passenger side sill plate. (The one that is chrome and says Infiniti on it. Just pull it up, it is held in with a couple retaining clips.)
- Rear passenger sill plate. (Same as up front.)
- Remove rear seat. (Bottom of the seat clips in with two clips up front. Pull on the tabs and lift up to release. There are also some "bars" on the back of the seat that go behind the back portion of the seat back. Just lift the seat bottom vertical and then slide forwards.)
- Rear seat back. (Four (4) 10mm bolts hold the seat back in along the bottom edge, then two (2) behind the center arm rest. Then push the seat back upwards to remove form the two hooks. Seat comes out.)
Thats all I removed. And as you can see from the pictures, there is a white plastic opening you can run the power wire through safely in the rear. When running the wire through the cabin, there is a white plastic tunnel which wiring is already run through. I thought it would have been a good place to run the power wire, but it's a pain in the ass to get it through, so don't bother trying. Just place the wire under the carpet and all the way to the bottom next to the B pillar, then run it under all the factory stuff you come across and you will be golden. (See pic below.)
The fire wall, I cut a small hole in the rubber gasket that the engine harness passes. then just push a coat hanger through the hole. Grab it under the dash and tape the wire to it and pull it through. Then just route the wire past the ABS and hook it up. Easy as pie.
How I ran the wire though the engine bay:
The location I ran the wire through the firewall:
How I ran the wire in the rear seat area:
And this is where it ends up:
HILO CONVERTER:
Sorry I don't have any pictures right now. If need be I will get some. This si also for wiring in a Mono subwoofer amp, not a stereo one (multi channel).
Now this is pretty straight forward. First I unplugged both rear deck drivers, they are next to useless and will not go too well with a sub in the trunk seeing as they are not seperatly enclosed.
I used the left side plug for the rear deck driver to wire in my HiLo converter. First I cut off the factory connector (the one that plugs into the driver). I then stripped three wires as follows:
- Green/Yellow wire. This is the wire to the Audio Amp Relay. This is what I spliced my remote turn on wire into.
- Pink wire. This is the negative wire from the factory amp from which you will be recieving the audio signal from.
- Light Blue wire. This is the positive wire from the factory amp from which you will be recieving the audio signal from.
- Black wire. I did nothing with this. It's just a ground.
On my HiLo convertor it had seperate wires for the left pos/neg and the right pos/neg. I spliced the left and right pos wires together, and the left right neg wires together. I then used butt connectors to fix them to the appropriate pos and neg signal wires from the factory amp. Pink = neg, Light blue = Pos.
I then butt connected the amps remote turn on wire to the Green/Yellow audio amp relay wire. The it's just a case of running the RCA's form the HiLo converter to the amp. Also some converters will require a ground, so in theory you could use the ground from the driver harness.
For the ground wire, I used the bolt holding my CD changer bracket in place.
Hope this helps other people doing a simple sub add-on the factory Bose system. Any questions about this just ask and I will answer them. Or if you need pictures of specific things.
