stretch? camber? overload? = bubbling tires?

lets no have a big chatroom on this thread, lets just address the question:

does camber wear lead to bubbling the sidewalls?
whats everyone's experience with that? EXPERIENCE.. not speculation..

stretching tires will obviously bring the corner of the sidewall/tire tread
closer to the middle of the rim, which means you're "on the sidewall"
more than the tread.. is that the, or one of the causes?

stretching tires.. like lets say a 245/35 on a 10" wide rim in the back
and the tires are only rated at 800lbs or whatever is that causing it 
to bubble? 

i just want people to shed a little insight. thanks!

I never had problems with bubbling, but the last time I took my rear wheels off my federals had stress crack on the inner sidewall. Not a problem ive had before with them but no ill sideaffects. Ive seen bubbled tires on oem size wheels and tires so it might not be a direct corelation with stretching and camber.

I've only had ONE tires sidewall bubble on me. 

This was on the front wheel 225 on a 9J, and it happened during the mounting process. 

I never had any other problems running up to -8* of camber. 


If your inquiring becuase your fk452 is doing it.. i'm pretty sure you're not the only one.

it's very common sense, increased camber will lead to increased chances of sidewall damage.

[B]-4 CAMBER is the most you should go without AIR suspension.[/B] Any more than -4 camber with coilover set up is plain rediculous, looks rediculous and increases chances of tire damage. I speak from experience because I run -4 camber, it's the most I'd go. It still visually look good and sidewall contact is not a big issue.

AIR suspension is different, You can have -4 camber for riding height and have over -8 camber when parked. 



[quote=hahajoey;100982]lets no have a big chatroom on this thread, lets just address the question:

does camber wear lead to bubbling the sidewalls?
whats everyone's experience with that? EXPERIENCE.. not speculation..

stretching tires will obviously bring the corner of the sidewall/tire tread
closer to the middle of the rim, which means you're "on the sidewall"
more than the tread.. is that the, or one of the causes?

stretching tires.. like lets say a 245/35 on a 10" wide rim in the back
and the tires are only rated at 800lbs or whatever is that causing it 
to bubble? 

i just want people to shed a little insight. thanks![/quote]

[QUOTE=QoozyFoozy;101028]it's very common sense, increased camber will lead to increased chances of sidewall damage.

[B]-4 CAMBER is the most you should go without AIR suspension.[/B] Any more than -4 camber with coilover set up is plain rediculous, looks rediculous and increases chances of tire damage. I speak from experience because I run -4 camber, it's the most I'd go. It still visually look good and sidewall contact is not a big issue.

AIR suspension is different, You can have -4 camber for riding height and have over -8 camber when parked.[/QUOTE]


wow.... you shouldn't go more than -4* yet you've never tried it, nor do you have any experience with it... cool 

And thanks for playing dad, but seriously why do you always make posts about things you know absolutely NOTHING about? 

Why is -4* the magical number? Becuase that's what YOU run? Stop being ignorant. Not to mention he didn't ask how much camber he should run, or how much camber is safe. He asked for people with experience with bubbled sidewalls....which your post has nothing to do with.

[quote=QoozyFoozy;101028]it's very common sense, increased camber will lead to increased chances of sidewall damage.

[B]-4 CAMBER is the most you should go without AIR suspension.[/B] Any more than -4 camber with coilover set up is plain rediculous, looks rediculous and increases chances of tire damage. I speak from experience because I run -4 camber, it's the most I'd go. It still visually look good and sidewall contact is not a big issue.

AIR suspension is different, You can have -4 camber for riding height and have over -8 camber when parked.[/quote]

I dont see any validity in your comments.

I ain't gonna argue about trivial sh*t like this. 

argue among yourselves and do as u please. At the end, the people will use their brains and decide what is best.

[quote=jzz30tt;101036]wow.... you shouldn't go more than -4* yet you've never tried it, nor do you have any experience with it... cool 

And thanks for playing dad, but seriously why do you always make posts about things you know absolutely NOTHING about? 

Why is -4* the magical number? Becuase that's what YOU run? Stop being ignorant. Not to mention he didn't ask how much camber he should run, or how much camber is safe. He asked for people with experience with bubbled sidewalls....which your post has nothing to do with.[/quote]

[quote=nizzan4u2nv;101051]I dont see any validity in your comments.[/quote]

Im not trying to argue, I just dont make sense of the point youre trying to make.

Anyway back on topic.

i've seen a few tire sidewalls bubble up

and like what jzz30tt, it was during the mounting.

lets see, bubbling is caused by and crack that lets air between the layers of rubber in the tire. this could be caused by hitting a pothole, installing the tire the wrong way, the tire getting too hot causing the layers of rubber to seperate, or a defective tire. to me, camber shouldnt cause bubbling of the side wall...  camber with incorrect toe can cause bubbling, incorrect toe causes the tire to move and flex, and heat up faster in such a way that, blah blah blah. this would also so cup your tires as well... 

your second question, its some what true but if you have your camber/toe within factory specs on a stretched tire, and properly inflated (i run 40psi) in a perfect world you will have an even wear pattern across the tire. but because of IRS, camber, and toe your wear pattern wont be even. because most guys camber the rear, and get toe within specs youll have more wear on the inner portion of the tire than the outer.  no you wont be riding the side wall. only way you'd ride the side wall is if you are under inflated, but by that time you'll have busted the bead of the tire and riding on rim....

you say 800lbs on one tire, you have 4 tires supporting the weight of the car. in other words, you have the weight of the car distributed across 4 tires. long story short, no it wont cause the side wall the bubble. extreme camber might cause the side wall to crack cuz all the weight is on the inner portion of the tire and not across the whole tire.... hope this helps...

[QUOTE=mista808;101065]lets see, bubbling is caused by and crack that lets air between the layers of rubber in the tire. this could be caused by hitting a pothole, installing the tire the wrong way, the tire getting too hot causing the layers of rubber to seperate, or a defective tire. to me, camber shouldnt cause bubbling of the side wall...  camber with incorrect toe can cause bubbling, incorrect toe causes the tire to move and flex, and heat up faster in such a way that, blah blah blah. this would also so cup your tires as well... 

your second question, its some what true but if you have your camber/toe within factory specs on a stretched tire, and properly inflated (i run 40psi) in a perfect world you will have an even wear pattern across the tire. but because of IRS, camber, and toe your wear pattern wont be even. because most guys camber the rear, and get toe within specs youll have more wear on the inner portion of the tire than the outer.  no you wont be riding the side wall. only way you'd ride the side wall is if you are under inflated, but by that time you'll have busted the bead of the tire and riding on rim....

you say 800lbs on one tire, you have 4 tires supporting the weight of the car. in other words, you have the weight of the car distributed across 4 tires. long story short, no it wont cause the side wall the bubble. extreme camber might cause the side wall to crack cuz all the weight is on the inner portion of the tire and not across the whole tire.... hope this helps...[/QUOTE]


Ummm maybe you haven't herd but if you run more than -4* your car will implode!

[quote=jzz30tt;101000]I've only had ONE tires sidewall bubble on me. 
 
This was on the front wheel 225 on a 9J, and it happened during the mounting process. 
 
I never had any other problems running up to -8* of camber. 
 
 
If your inquiring becuase your fk452 is doing it.. i'm pretty sure you're not the only one.[/quote]Speaking from experience and having about 4 FK452 tires bubble up on me, was all due to overloading. I believe FK452's with load ratings lower than 91 such as 225/35/19 and 215/35/19 cannot support the Y33's weight up front, and I'm speaking from having a pair of 215/35/19's on 8.5's without any added negative camber and a pair 225/35/19's on 9's with -3.5 degrees camber all up front fail on me from inner sidewalls bubbling up (separation). Yet, I've tried a pair of FK452 235/35/19 and a pair of ST115 245/35/19 for my rear 10's with -7.5 degrees without any problems and was able to drive on them much longer than any of my front failed tires. Once I put some FK452 235/35/19 tires on my front 9's with -3.5 degrees of camber, sidewall separation was eliminated even after driving on them for much longer than previous smaller sizes. I say load rating is the biggest factor in possible sidewall separation (bubbling), then potholes, and then finally camber. Again, I'm just speaking on Y33's and FK452's.

Don't know bout bubbles, but worn/damaged sidewall is common for negative camber settings.

Had one case of bubbling side walls but it happened to my 4 years old tyre. It used normally without stretch or negative camber. I suppose the bubbling has something to do with the age of the tyres.

[quote=jzz30tt;101067]Ummm maybe you haven't herd but if you run more than -4* your car will implode![/quote]

implode? dont know exactly what youre talking about.... i aligned my car at work, maxed the camber to -4.8 degrees, and got the toe within specs. and my car hasnt imploded yet....

I never had a tire bubble up on me and I run extreme stretch and I have used over 8 different tire brands.  I just get blow outs (not that thats better).  I run a decent amount of camber but not as extreme as some other members on here.  It has to do with the tire and how it was mounted.

This is my take from seeing some of my friends tires bubble.  I'd figure this to be more plain and simple.   low profile tires have less sidewall height while regular cars have huge donut height walls.   I believe the large donut wheels absorb alot more shock from hitting huge potholes because of all this flexibility in the 5+ inch sidewall height.   Even with enough air pressure or worse low pressure any good size pothole or violent contact with an uneven driveway/road  or some kind of debris could crunch a low profile side wall damaging the steel braids.  Causing the braids to snap and the air pocket thing develops.

wow im so happy to see such activity.. its been boggling my mind
and i had no idea what to do..

2 comments...

1) benji.. my car weighed in at like 4000 lbs... we weighed the front and rear halves
of the car to see what was up and my tires(245 in back and 235 in front) are pretty
much overloaded if theres passengers in the car.
front rating:        1,356
rear rating: 1,433
but i think we calced it to be overloaded if i had people in the car.
lets say with a fulltank my car weighs 4000. with 4 adults(lets say 200 ea).
thats 4800. its right at the limit if not over the limit.

i was leaning towards this as being the cause. cuz it makes more sense.. i have
a friend running a ton of camber without any bubbling, and he's running 40's.
so im thinking that extra "load" helped?? i dunno its just a guess..
thats why im on here asking u guys..

as for point #2..
why would airride make it ok to run 4deg's of camber?
i have plenty of travel at the height i was at. i wasn't bottoming anything out,
and it still bubbled.. so the height and camber didn't affect it. i went from higher..
to lower, and then lower.. getting alignment everytime, but i endedup with the same shit in the end..

oh and im not hitting pot holes.. im not doing donuts either.. and im running 40psi

can u guys elaborate with "how the tire was mounted"? what do u mean by
mounting it wrong caused a blowout? are u talking about how they use
that crowbar to stretch it on?

[QUOTE=mista808;101085]implode? dont know exactly what youre talking about.... i aligned my car at work, maxed the camber to -4.8 degrees, and got the toe within specs. and my car hasnt imploded yet....[/QUOTE]

it was extremely heavy sarcasm directed towards another post. 

Come'on you should know by now i of all people am fine with running a measly -4*

[QUOTE=hahajoey;101126]can u guys elaborate with "how the tire was mounted"? what do u mean by
mounting it wrong caused a blowout? are u talking about how they use
that crowbar to stretch it on?[/QUOTE]

Yes, that or the mounting machine. It's fairly easy to do if your not careful.

[quote=QoozyFoozy;101028]it's very common sense, increased camber will lead to increased chances of sidewall damage.

[B]-4 CAMBER is the most you should go without AIR suspension.[/B] Any more than -4 camber with coilover set up is plain rediculous, looks rediculous and increases chances of tire damage. I speak from experience because I run -4 camber, it's the most I'd go. It still visually look good and sidewall contact is not a big issue.

AIR suspension is different, You can have -4 camber for riding height and have over -8 camber when parked.[/quote]

i can guarantee you i have more htan -4 on BOTH my wheels
[img]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2266/1743184911_43f95814b3.jpg[/img]
and no problem

what do u mean by fairly easy to do it(cause a problem) if u dont
mount the tire correctly? what would make it incorrect?

common sense would tell anyone not to drive on the sidewall of the tire. If theres no tread...its not supposed to touch the ground. and it doesnt require a rocket scientist to determine that it will cause damage to the tire   
[CENTER] [B]Theres a reason why its called a [U]SIDE[/U]WALL. :smiley:[/B][/CENTER]
 
-You build an NA-T and your motor blows..dont blame the motor. 
 
-run air ride and  suspension  rides like crap and starts to fail...dont blame the car

-put a big stereo in your car and the lights dim at idle...dont blame the crappy electrical system. 
 
If u use a product beyond its intended purpose...live with the results.  good or bad. 
 
Im running stretched FALKENS (FK41 / FK452) on 3 cars Rnow and havent had any issues with them. IF I did, I think it would be safe to assume thats the reason why reputable tire shops wont stretch....it looks good, but not really supposed to be done. 
 
I live with my decisions.:shrug:

pay to play

[QUOTE=DriftGirl;101188]common sense would tell anyone not to drive on the sidewall of the tire. If theres no tread...its not supposed to touch the ground. and it doesnt require a rocket scientist to determine that it will cause damage to the tire   
[CENTER] [B]Theres a reason why its called a [U]SIDE[/U]WALL. :smiley:[/B][/CENTER]
 [/QUOTE]

I see what you're saying but really who here is driving on the sidewall? Even when I was running -4.5* front and -8* rear i wasn't "driving on the sidewall" at least not what i would call driving on the sidewalk.

u would need like 45 degrees to drive on sidewalls.. lol
honestly a lot of people run camber and dont have issues
of bubbling sidewalls, so the overloading the tires or maybe
a bad mount job. but thats why im asking u all..

and can people shed more light on how a shop can mount a tire wrong?
if they do 19/20's all day and what not.. what can they do to cause it?
the way they pry the tire on? the way they seat it?

eh, weekend drivers who ask for a 1000hp, reliable car.....thats good on gas:smiley-rofl: 
 
look at the tire and see where its worn after running an aggressive camber setup. nuff said.
 
Dont run tire setups like this if you cant buy more when they wear out after 10k. Anyone who cant see that this is bad on tires, seriously needs another hobby or a willingness to learn. Just because [B]you WANT[/B] the tires to wear like a normal setup, doesnt mean it will. 
 
pay to play...pay to look good....or watch from the sidelines. Sounds harsh, but [I]it is what it is. [/I]
 
 
 
Tires get f'ed up when they use pry bars on them

[quote=hahajoey;101227]u would need like 45 degrees to drive on sidewalls.. lol
honestly a lot of people run camber and dont have issues
of bubbling sidewalls, so the overloading the tires or maybe
a bad mount job. but thats why im asking u all..
 
and can people shed more light on how a shop can mount a tire wrong?
if they do 19/20's all day and what not.. what can they do to cause it?
the way they pry the tire on? the way they seat it?[/quote]Yea, I've factored out tire mounting because i've had 2 different tire mounters mount tires and only the lower load rating have failed on me. Everything 235/35/19 (91 load rating) and larger have held up just fine. The tire mounters I've dealt with have been very careful with getting the sidewall over the lips.

[QUOTE=hahajoey;101227]u would need like 45 degrees to drive on sidewalls.. lol[/QUOTE]
Thank you! BTW Where the hell have you been? 


[QUOTE=hahajoey;101227]
and can people shed more light on how a shop can mount a tire wrong?
if they do 19/20's all day and what not.. what can they do to cause it?
the way they pry the tire on? the way they seat it?[/QUOTE]

Yea, basically when they "pry" the bead onto the wheel. After the first bead is on and the outter bead in trying to be "pry'd" onto the wheel. This is when sidewall damage can occur. By either using a pry bar OR a machine. Both can cause this to happen.

[QUOTE=Benji;101234]Yea, I've factored out tire mounting because i've had 2 different tire mounters mount tires and only the lower load rating have failed on me. Everything 235/35/19 (91 load rating) and larger have held up just fine. The tire mounters I've dealt with have been very careful with getting the sidewall over the lips.[/QUOTE]

I need to call you! haha I totally forgot to call you back the other day. I'll holla tonight.

just to clear some things up. i drive about 20k a year.
so im not a "weekend driver" and my tires don't even last 10k.
in fact it lasted about 1 oilchange. and the tire tread isn't even bad,
but the sidewalls are bubbled on ALL 4. 

whats really interesting is, i had a tire bubble all around within 2-3 weeks of
getting it mounted, the tire place switched it out and sent it back to
falken to claim some kinda warranty.

its not "pay to play" im concerned with. im concerned because i wanna know
why some people can roll a lot of camber and not have bubbles.. we're
not talking about how long tires last. but if the sidewall fails time and time
again and u gotta throw away tires that haven't really been driven on that
long.. then thats a problem.. 

ive had 4 fk451's.. 2 st115's.. 4 nitto 555's.. 2 kumho spt, and now 4 fk452s
replaced in the last year and half. thats bullshit if u ask me. so please dont
think its a "pay to play." if the tire doesn't even last, then we gotta see whats
causing it.. 

most of our cars camber as the car sits lower(ie over bumps, dips, or jsut driving).
theres a lot of cars with a lot of camber out there and thats why i couldn't
blame camber for it.

**PS: my car has changed heights and went through about 3-4 alignments in this time
frame and ive been consistently running the same size tires.
as for rims, i went from 8.5 & 9.5 to a 9.5 & 10.5

im just trying to figure things out and hopefully this
information can help people out there so they dont
get jacked..

another thing i was thinking.. some people blame stretching it..
so lets say i kept the camber the same and toe the same and the
tire sizes the same but mounted it some 19x7.5 or 19x8 all around..
will that fix it?? u know what i mean?

[QUOTE=hahajoey;101241]im just trying to figure things out and hopefully this
information can help people out there so they dont
get jacked..

another thing i was thinking.. some people blame stretching it..
so lets say i kept the camber the same and toe the same and the
tire sizes the same but mounted it some 19x7.5 or 19x8 all around..
will that fix it?? u know what i mean?[/QUOTE]

Man i can't believe you're having this much trouble! I've never had a problem after the wheels were on my car.. I mean i even had a blow out from tread wear once (i knew it was gonna blow) but the sidewalls were still intact before the blowout. I've also ran under rated tires up front, usually st115's and General's

Damn! 4 fk451's.. 2 st115's.. 4 nitto 555's.. 2 kumho spt, and now 4 fk452s
replaced in the last year and half?!?! sumthings wrong  :sad: same installer?

I went through just as many tires and went to about 3-4 different installers.  Bad roads, driving habbits and lugging around heavy things and heavy passengers put extra stress on tires.

hmmm... maybe it is the installation?
how does YOUR installers do it? do they use pry bars?
what are they doing exactly? ive seen people mount tires
for years now.. please share what is a  "good" instllation?

yes yes thats how many sets.. ive had.. i guess u can say about
3 full sets of tires worth was repaced in about a year and a half.
and i think thats excessive..

God, its like reading books going through these forums sometimes.....

hahahaha.  Camber is like wheels and body kits.  A personal preferance.

for what its worth
ive used nothing but federals for the last year with alot of drifting, driving, and nice stretches
and i haev yet to have a bubble

i had a set of falkens with a 205/40 on a 9j, and they bubbled....after that i switched to federal
but i install all my own tires, mount and dismount.

Damn, 20k a year is ALOT. I am all for the camber look, but i think if you do that many miles you should consider either going for a more conservative fitment, or get another car for a doing all the driving in!
 
I have run 6+ degrees on the rear of my car for more than a yr and 4.3 deg on the front of my car for a month or so without any problems

as long as you have 0 toe, you should be fine anyways
alot of camber will accelerate wear, but not near that much

[quote=hahajoey;101281]hmmm... maybe it is the installation?
how does YOUR installers do it? do they use pry bars?
what are they doing exactly? ive seen people mount tires
for years now.. please share what is a "good" instllation?
 
yes yes thats how many sets.. ive had.. i guess u can say about
3 full sets of tires worth was repaced in about a year and a half.
and i think thats excessive..[/quote]
 
Allow me to chime in. Although I am new to this board, I think I may be able to offer some advise or at least some insight.
 
I used to work for a performance shop for a few years, many years ago, and at this shop one of my duties was to mount performance tires on performance wheels of all sizes.
Now we used pry bars to mount small sidewall tires, however let me make this very clear...
If your installer is using the pry bar to "PRY" the tire back toward him while the wheel rotates on the machine, onto the wheel, HE IS WRONG!!
 
The bar is used (and many case in conjunction with another bar) to push down on one side (as if to hold down one bead under the wheel lip) while pushing and feeding the other bead under the wheel lip. It's a bit difficult to explain this, but the best I can say is that wether or not the wheel was face down or up, you get one side of the tire on (the easy part) then you pry (hate saying pry, more like push down) on one side of the tire, spin the wheel and feed the rest of the bead as the wheel turns on the machine until the bead is under the outter most lip of the wheel.
 
Granted there is a degree of stretching/flexing of the tire (normal limits) as the machine grabs one side of the tire and rotates the wheel, however the bar/bars is used as an aid, and you should never have to really stretch out farther then the machine does just to mount the tire. A lot of tire mounting lube and skill is what a good installer uses.
 
At the very most it is tedious work, but that is the PROPER way of mounting low pro tires on any size wheel. If the install shop is using one of the auto mounting machines and they are in a sense prying the bead back farther while the tire goes around, then they are simply....WRONG!!

heres an update. i was talking to falken and i had taken some pictures for them.
i figured i would post them up so you guys can see what i'm talking about.
u can click to see the full image.

[U] [URL="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03678copy.jpg"][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03678copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03677copy.jpg"][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03677copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03676copy.jpg"][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03676copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03675copy.jpg"][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03675copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03674copy.jpg"][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03674copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03673copy.jpg"][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03673copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03672copy.jpg"][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03672copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[/U]

[URL=http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03671copy.jpg][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03671copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL=http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03670copy.jpg][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03670copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL=http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03669copy.jpg][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03669copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL=http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03668copy.jpg][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03668copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03667copy.jpg][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03667copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL=http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03666copy.jpg][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03666copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL=http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03665copy.jpg][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03665copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL][URL=http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/DSC03664copy.jpg][IMG]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i186/hahajoey/tires/th_DSC03664copy.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

hahajoey,

it looks like the problem is only occurring on the inside portion of the tire (which also happens to be the inside portion that is taking the most beating due to camber) .

from your pics, it looks like the beads are having trouble staying intact to it's original location due to stretch; add camber bias to one side and you add additional force - weight to that particular side. Some tires hold up better under straining conditions and some tires don't. I have 245 35 19 strech (sumitomo htrz) on 10j with no problems. I'd say this is a tire issue.

thanks for your insight! BUT
i was running 245/35 and 235/35 on 9.5 and 8.5
now im running same size tire on 9.5 and 10.5.

and falken says those tire sizes are more than adequate for my car. but i'll keep u posted.
i should get some kinda answer by tomorrow from falken when they look at the pix

I thought this was discussed enough already?

I ran 225/35/19 on 8.5 with FK452 bubbled within 1 month
Federals same sizing no problems. Some tires take a beating better than others.

I don't drive hard or intentionally berat on them, Tucson just has VERY SHITTY roads the way I travel. (Pot holes, tar patches, sections with seperated lines, sectiones where the ends of the road have bubbled up to create small speed bump like lines) it's really pathetic here.

this topic has been discussed but there hasn't really been 
an exact answer or solution. people speculate its the installer,
people speculate is the camber/stretch, some speculate its the
overloading. 

im posting what happened to me and what's going on with falken
so that other people who run across this problem can at least
have someone they can relate to. i don't think it's over until
Falken tells me a solution. Remember, i tried 3-4 different tires
and theres plenty of people on here running FK452's without problems.

[quote=Damicci;102045]Tucson just has VERY SHITTY roads the way I travel. (Pot holes, tar patches, sections with seperated lines, sectiones where the ends of the road have bubbled up to create small speed bump like lines) it's really pathetic here.[/quote]
 
TRUE STORY

wow im glad this thread came along....

3 days ago i spent about 3 hours on the phone with a Jim Johnson of Falken tire and he basically refused any warranty claims saying that a 225/35/19 was not enough load capacity for my car 2000 Acura 3.2tl. and i had about -2 & -4 camber. i dont think it was the camber. the only thing i can think of is not having enough air in them, not waiting long enough to get an alignment after the suspension settled(toe being off). because these only lasted me about 3-4 months. here are some pics i took for the falken guy:

my car weighs 3483 +stereo= so lets so 3800 at the most. i thought a 225 would be fine. can anybody help me out here? wheels are 19x9.

[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/4-2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/5-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/3-5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/2-5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/1-5.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=jtmoney1244;102545]wow im glad this thread came along....

3 days ago i spent about 3 hours on the phone with a Jim Johnson of Falken tire and he basically refused any warranty claims saying that a 225/35/19 was not enough load capacity for my car 2000 Acura 3.2tl. and i had about -2 & -4 camber. i dont think it was the camber. the only thing i can think of is not having enough air in them, not waiting long enough to get an alignment after the suspension settled(toe being off). because these only lasted me about 3-4 months. here are some pics i took for the falken guy:

my car weighs 3483 +stereo= so lets so 3800 at the most. i thought a 225 would be fine. can anybody help me out here? wheels are 19x9.

[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/6.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/4-2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/5-3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/3-5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/2-5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l318/jtmoney1244/1-5.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]


Those tires look about time to change anyways...any more driving looks like the steel braids are gonna start showing on that inside.    You obviously have camber by looking at how much meat you have elsewhere.

hey JTMONEY, i am dealing with Rebecca from Falken's Technical Assistance department, i sent over pictures of the tires(like i posted) and rims too. I am awaiting her response.
She had mentioned earlier to take it to a official falken retailer which would be able
to help me out, but she said she wanted to see pictures first.

i told her i can't drive the car and the wheels are off the car right now.
so i'll keep u posted.  

so the bottom line with your claim with falken is that you overlaoded your tires?
and that caused it to bubble? because that is the best logical answer I have
came up with and i've talked to a lot of people.

ya get ready to be disapointed. you will not be getting anything from falken but a lecture on tire care. i know rebecca you speak of. i spoke to her first. she instructed me to go to a tire dealer. (discount tires) when i had 3 tecks including a manager look at the tires and say that it was a tire problem not my problem. they then basically told me oh well it was the load on the car and you not putting the right air pressure in it. i wont ever buy falken again. i am now looking for a tire that will handle my load of the car at a 225/35/19 if there are any suggestions.

hmm thats interesting because rebecca crossed referenced my car
right off the bat with the tires i'm running and she said that i was
well within spec. 

so we'll see. like i said, im not expecting free tires, or anything reall.
i just want a solution to this problem. i can't justify another set of tires
if it'll only last like 6-7k miles. i was about ready for a flip and i never
even got there.. it sucks... i'll keep u posted.

i think someone on here said they ran a federal with the same size and it
fixed his bubbling problem. check the weight load on those in the size u need.

It'snot that it's over loading it's the sidewall takes more impact due to the weight of the vehicle so if it was a show car wouldn't have any issues but since these cars are daily driven small bumps in the road become magnified by the improper load rating used on certain vehicles. 6-7 months is pretty good depending on how much milaege. MY rears lasted about 5 months before I flipped them and will soon need a new set period.

I had 225/35/19 Falken ST115 on 19x9.5 on the front of my SC400 for a year.  I'm sure that was under the specified load rating.  No problems.

ST115, Nankang, Hankook, Federal are all being used on this forum with extreme stretches and few problems.

AME_VIP, how much camber were you running on the car?
How low was your car?

-3.5 deg camber all around, toe was oem spec for 92 SC400.  Not sure exactly how low, but low enough to get the frame hung up on a high enough driveway.

have to chime in here and also say that I won't be buying falken ANYTHING ever again. I just had a sidewall go out on me after about 8K on a rear tire... a 225/40/18 "stretched" on an 18x9. :ughdown:

FK452?  Or a different model.

All 4 of my 452 sidewalls blew out between 8-10k miles.  But I am running -6 degrees front and -8 degrees back at drive height.  Bridgestone potenza re750's are holding up a lot better and way more stretched.

If you toe it in it will wear the outside of the contact patch more than the inside.    
I had 225 on 8.5 and 245 on 10.5 now 225 on 9.5 and 245 on 11 on my g35.  Nankangs, bridgestone, goodyears and falkens. I've had no blow outs in 25k miles but I go thru tires quick

On my mr2 I had 215/35/18 on 8.5 and 255/35/18 on 10. I went thru like 3 tires on the front passenger side within like 10k.  I was using falken ziex 512 all around.  It was fine after I bumped it up to 55-60psi. As long as I kept it there it was fine.  I had the rears at about 55 so it kinda went well for handling. I think the load ratings for 215/35/18 is meant for cars like ford fiestas.  I have 18x8.5 and 245's and 18x10.5 for it now but I don't have front tires and it doesn't run right now.

my rear right fk452 has 3 sidewall bubbles.  they said it was my fault bs bs bs.  sears can eat a big fat deeak

[QUOTE=AME_VIP;151822]FK452?  Or a different model.[/QUOTE]

yes, it was the 452's :saiyancrunks:

I had 2 FK452 tires bubble on me..all on the inside.  I take care of my tire pressure.   Now I ran the ST-115 and had zero problems.   I think it's just that specific model.   I even sold my last rims and we chatted about the 452s and he also agreed that they bubble like no other.

ok i started this thread a LONG ASS TIME AGO.. lol but here's some updates i forgot to mention..

i was running some nitto 555 and some toyo.. i bent my control arms in front
so they have only 1 degree of camber.. i maintained my tire sizes of
235/35 on a 9.5
and a 245/35 on a 10.5
i realized that since i always am on the lookout for potholes and such. i dont look
very far ahead and i brake kinda more on the aggressive side than passive side.

so i have learned to brake a lot nicer.. look ahead further and with all these things
in play. even the nitto and toyo tires.. i can get about 23,000 miles on my fronts..
and about 17,000 miles on the rear(which i am running almost 5 degrees of negative camber).

i do flip them when the time is right.. and i maintain above 44 PSI which i do regularly check

i am now on 20's and im back to shady fk452's.. we'll see what happens..

u are crazy going back!

ST115 FTW.  I have tun them on on my last 4 cars most with camber/stretched tires/low etc

225/35/19 on 19x9
245/35/19 on 19x10
225/35/19 on 19x9.5
215/35/19 on 19x8.5
245/35/20 on 20x9
275/35/20 on 20x11

st115's are siick.. i loved them when i had them..
as for me going back to fk452.. they're the only ones who make a
225/30.. no one else does.. so we'll see how it'll work

the falken fk452 bubbles like crazy! had both front tires replaced because of this. stick to nexen n3000. cheap tire, good tread wear and a good stretch.