Another Amp Problem.

Before i start, this is what i have running.

Stock 98Q45 Bose HU
Running a HiLo converter directly off the rear OEM subs (disconnected)
JL Audio e1400D Amp
2x JL Audio 10" w1v2

First couple of weeks of installation everything works fine, hits hard with no problems and never had the 2 diffrent amp protection modes engaged.

On the way home one night, music hitting hard. Went to park the car i always turn the HU off before i turn off the engine.

Next moring, the amp dosnt turn on like its getting no power.

Checked everything, inline 50amp fuse looks fine, amp remote power is fine.

But the amp still dosnt turn on. Its been a couple of days now sitting there and i have no idea what else i can check. Does the amp have a internal fuse? The manual dosnt say anything about it.

The only problem solver i can find in the manual itself talks about the Remote power wire saying that somtimes the amp may not turn on because the power running through it is not strong enough.

I am going to check that tonight to see if it gets enough power, other then that, dose anyone know if the stock rear subs/amp have a fuse for the remote power? If so, where would it be located?

Thanks

you can take the postive and tap it with the rem. if it doesnt turn on still your amp probably fried. i had a lot of issue with the jl amp. so i stop using them. i toasted mine like burnt toast lmaoooo. if you want an inexpensive amp check out rockford fosgate and kicker. they have fuses built on the outside that break before it shorts the amp. the mosfet on the jl amp suck bottyyy.

I've got my HiLo converter melted in my previous setup. It gives out a slight cracking sound before it died.

[quote=xplayazplayzonx;115731]you can take the postive and tap it with the rem. if it doesnt turn on still your amp probably fried. i had a lot of issue with the jl amp. so i stop using them. i toasted mine like burnt toast lmaoooo. if you want an inexpensive amp check out rockford fosgate and kicker. they have fuses built on the outside that break before it shorts the amp. the mosfet on the jl amp suck bottyyy.[/quote]

I did a direct connection from the amps positive power wire to the remote terminal. Subs turned on and went back into working order.

I thought to myself, there must be a loose connection in the remote power wire. Checked that, even redid the connectors. All to find out the same problem occurred.

Now i am dumb founded. I checked to see if there was any type of fuse that would have anything to do with it, and only found an 10amp Audio fuse on the driver kick panel.

Checked it, looked fine, even replaced it with a new once just to make sure. That didnt fix the problem.

Other then that, i have no idea.


 The orginal setup (the one im having problems with) ran from the left with a T connection connecting the remote power to the HiLo Converter, and the amp.

Im planing on having the amp run off the right OEM sub power wire so its more direct, and leaving the converter connected to the left remote power wire. If that dosnt help, i have no idea what else to try.



Any tips would be great. Thanks

what are you running your remote off of???might not be strong enough.....try runnin a new remote off of an accessory like a cigarrete lighter or tap into a spare port on the fuse box..... only thing is your amps will be on as long as your car is on.

Some amps like Audison require a certain amount of voltage for the remote wire.  The easiest way to get this is to use a relay.  Below is a picture I found on Google.  It should help you out.

[IMG]http://i9.tinypic.com/6xzzsyq.jpg[/IMG]

NOTES: #85 will go to your current remote wire, and #87 will go to your amp.

You can find relays at almost any auto parts store or alarm store for about $3.

Cool, il give that a try.

After i figure out whats wrong with my head unit now.

I ran the amp from the positive direct to test out the amp to see of the safety warning lights go off. Runs for a min then all of a sudden my head unit just dies. Dosnt turn on, or eject cds ect...


I hate electronics..