ugh, tires
just wanted to complain
3rd tire in less than thow monts
two fronts, nad now a rear
my tires stash is running low.
gay
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just wanted to complain
3rd tire in less than thow monts
two fronts, nad now a rear
my tires stash is running low.
gay
i assume becuz of camber?
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i assume becuz of camber?
nto sure, they have all been federals, but i realy abused the rears on right now, so im sure itwas
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nto sure, they have all been federals, but i realy abused the rears on right now, so im sure itwas
i went through 2 full sets of 235/35 and 275/30 fk452 in 3 months last year... ALL BUBBLES
getting nankangs this summer. u think i could actually go up a size in the front and have the same clearence on the 235 becuz the nankang run narrower than 452?
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i went through 2 full sets of 235/35 and 275/30 fk452 in 3 months last year... ALL BUBBLES
getting nankangs this summer. u think i could actually go up a size in the front and have the same clearence on the 235 becuz the nankang run narrower than 452?
i dunno
dont run nankang
hopefully ill get some falkens soon
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i dunno
dont run nankang
hopefully ill get some falkens soon
bubbles are mounting problems, find a better shop to mount your tires.
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bubbles are mounting problems, find a better shop to mount your tires.
yeah, ive never gotten a bubble
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yeah, ive never gotten a bubble
just curious, what kind of problems exactly? some serious inner wear? cupping, feathering? cuz with that camber....... ooh wee.....
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just curious, what kind of problems exactly? some serious inner wear? cupping, feathering? cuz with that camber....... ooh wee.....
x3, never had a bubble but Ill take bubbles anyday over blowouts
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x3, never had a bubble but Ill take bubbles anyday over blowouts
mista808;120903 wrote:just curious, what kind of problems exactly? some serious inner wear? cupping, feathering? cuz with that camber....... ooh wee.....
not sure
but it seems every 3,000 KM another tire goes out.
i drive like 700-800km a week, ill take pictures when i swap tires this afternoon
i change all my own tires, so i know if i fuck up it sme
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[quote=mista808;120903]just curious, what kind of problems exactly? some serious inner wear? cupping, feathering? cuz with that camber....... ooh wee.....[/quote]
not sure
but it seems every 3,000 KM another tire goes out.
i drive like 700-800km a week, ill take pictures when i swap tires this afternoon
i change all my own tires, so i know if i fuck up it sme
Atleast bubbles give you warnings LOL.
Had a buddy have ANOTHER blow out on the highway in the rain. Must have been some scary shit. Bent his rims AGAIN. Gotta pay to play though right?
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Atleast bubbles give you warnings LOL.
Had a buddy have ANOTHER blow out on the highway in the rain. Must have been some scary shit. Bent his rims AGAIN. Gotta pay to play though right?
right
i mean, its annoying, but id rather have people stop me and ask me if my suspensino is broken (twice now by japanese base guards) then roll regular
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right
i mean, its annoying, but id rather have people stop me and ask me if my suspensino is broken (twice now by japanese base guards) then roll regular
Caoboy;120908 wrote:Atleast bubbles give you warnings LOL.
Had a buddy have ANOTHER blow out on the highway in the rain. Must have been some scary shit. Bent his rims AGAIN. Gotta pay to play though right?
After having so many horrific experiences, you get amuned to it. Def not cool when the money you have saved on future mods has to be used on tires all the time
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[quote=Caoboy;120908]Atleast bubbles give you warnings LOL.
Had a buddy have ANOTHER blow out on the highway in the rain. Must have been some scary shit. Bent his rims AGAIN. Gotta pay to play though right?[/quote]
After having so many horrific experiences, you get amuned to it. Def not cool when the money you have saved on future mods has to be used on tires all the time
no shit
all hte wheels i sell, i keep the tires for shit like this
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no shit
all hte wheels i sell, i keep the tires for shit like this
DAMN I FEEL FOR YOU GRANT!
Buying tires SUCKS!!! But It's worth it once you get new ones!
What's wrong w/ Nankangs?
I've gone through two sets and love them!
:shrug:
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DAMN I FEEL FOR YOU GRANT!
Buying tires SUCKS!!! But It's worth it once you get new ones!
What's wrong w/ Nankangs?
I've gone through two sets and love them!
:shrug:
i just never used them
its cheaper for me to get federals from the US and haev them sent here...than buy tires here
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i just never used them
its cheaper for me to get federals from the US and haev them sent here...than buy tires here
Caoboy;120894 wrote:bubbles are mounting problems, find a better shop to mount your tires.
Not a mounting only problem but they can be caused by stress too. Hit a pothole hard enough and you can cause a break in the sidewall reinforcement. You can also get a bubbling affect that can happen when the outer rubber from the sidewall starts to peel away from the reinforcement in the sidewall. This can be caused by heat (which can be the culprit for those running excessive negative camber on tires with low load rating) or can be a manufacturing defect.
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[quote=Caoboy;120894]bubbles are mounting problems, find a better shop to mount your tires.[/quote]
Not a mounting only problem but they can be caused by stress too. Hit a pothole hard enough and you can cause a break in the sidewall reinforcement. You can also get a bubbling affect that can happen when the outer rubber from the sidewall starts to peel away from the reinforcement in the sidewall. This can be caused by heat (which can be the culprit for those running excessive negative camber on tires with low load rating) or can be a manufacturing defect.
yeah, i have since then given up with fk452's. ive gone through probably 4 sets, with probably 3 set going bad. i personally believe that because this is a luxury tire, the sidewalls are not so reinforced, therefore the easy bubbling with added a slight stretch.
i will no longer be using them, theyve caused quite the headache and disappointment.
Delvin, im with you on this, because another time the outside part of the rubber had bubbled, completely worn through, but the inner rubber was still intact. it was bizarre
Charley
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yeah, i have since then given up with fk452's. ive gone through probably 4 sets, with probably 3 set going bad. i personally believe that because this is a luxury tire, the sidewalls are not so reinforced, therefore the easy bubbling with added a slight stretch.
i will no longer be using them, theyve caused quite the headache and disappointment.
Delvin, im with you on this, because another time the outside part of the rubber had bubbled, completely worn through, but the inner rubber was still intact. it was bizarre
Charley
#1 cause of bubbles is inadequate LOAD INDEX (and potholes!!). 90% of people don't know, or care about the proper load index. But if you are running tires that are designed to hold the weight of a Civic, yet your luxury car is 2x heavier, and you have excessive camber, have fun. Look out for lawsuits if you cause an accident due to a tire blow out too. I'm sure it's not common, but it can happen, and yes, you would be liable.
I have moderate camber ~2-3 deg, and over 2 years on my tires, 245 & 275. I do stupid burnouts and drive hard, and get great life out of tires. "pay to play" is such an immature thing, you don't have to pay to play if you use caution, but whatever.
At least for those of you running under rated load index tires, keeping them at the Max PSI will help offset the load index somewhat. But there are no 215 / 19" tires made that have load index of 94 or higher, which is minimum on pretty much ALL 2 ton VIP chassis cars.
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#1 cause of bubbles is inadequate LOAD INDEX (and potholes!!). 90% of people don't know, or care about the proper load index. But if you are running tires that are designed to hold the weight of a Civic, yet your luxury car is 2x heavier, and you have excessive camber, have fun. Look out for lawsuits if you cause an accident due to a tire blow out too. I'm sure it's not common, but it can happen, and yes, you would be liable.
I have moderate camber ~2-3 deg, and over 2 years on my tires, 245 & 275. I do stupid burnouts and drive hard, and get great life out of tires. "pay to play" is such an immature thing, you don't have to pay to play if you use caution, but whatever.
At least for those of you running under rated load index tires, keeping them at the Max PSI will help offset the load index somewhat. But there are no 215 / 19" tires made that have load index of 94 or higher, which is minimum on pretty much ALL 2 ton VIP chassis cars.
Um, you aren't lowered as much as anyone else posting in this thread. That's the reason you are getting away with so long on your tires, you still have wheel gap.
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Um, you aren't lowered as much as anyone else posting in this thread. That's the reason you are getting away with so long on your tires, you still have wheel gap.
It's part of it for sure, but tires bubble because of insufficient load index and impact with things like potholes. Mad camber like Yokota runs is a different story all together. Point is, even with extreme camber, if you have tires designed to carry the weight of the car, the tires will last longer.
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It's part of it for sure, but tires bubble because of insufficient load index and impact with things like potholes. Mad camber like Yokota runs is a different story all together. Point is, even with extreme camber, if you have tires designed to carry the weight of the car, the tires will last longer.
uh not really, load index is thrown out the window when your riding on your side wall.
load index is the least of his concern. what he needs is a specially designed tire that has tread on the sidewall.
F.L.S.;121156 wrote:It's part of it for sure, but tires bubble because of insufficient load index and impact with things like potholes. Mad camber like Yokota runs is a different story all together. Point is, even with extreme camber, if you have tires designed to carry the weight of the car, the tires will last longer.
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uh not really, load index is thrown out the window when your riding on your side wall.
load index is the least of his concern. what he needs is a specially designed tire that has tread on the sidewall.
[quote=F.L.S.;121156]It's part of it for sure, but tires bubble because of insufficient load index and impact with things like potholes. Mad camber like Yokota runs is a different story all together. Point is, even with extreme camber, if you have tires designed to carry the weight of the car, the tires will last longer.[/quote]
^ haha, nice.
Yeah, I see you're about an inch or two lower than my Q, but your camber is still on the mellow side.
Screw replacing 1000-1200 worth of tires every 3 months. Even Donald Trump wouldn't throw away money like that.
However, I a'int judging anyone, and don't care what people do, it's all good.
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^ haha, nice.
Yeah, I see you're about an inch or two lower than my Q, but your camber is still on the mellow side.
Screw replacing 1000-1200 worth of tires every 3 months. Even Donald Trump wouldn't throw away money like that.
However, I a'int judging anyone, and don't care what people do, it's all good.
Caoboy;121121 wrote:Um, you aren't lowered as much as anyone else posting in this thread. That's the reason you are getting away with so long on your tires, you still have wheel gap.
lol
low ride height causes tire wear, you heard it here first
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[QUOTE=Caoboy;121121]Um, you aren't lowered as much as anyone else posting in this thread. That's the reason you are getting away with so long on your tires, you still have wheel gap.[/QUOTE]
lol
low ride height causes tire wear, you heard it here first
look
i dont know WHOT THE FUCK is going to spend 1000 on tires
i can get brand new federals in 19s for like 120ea shipped to japan.
18s, i spend like 400
you guys spending all this cash on these tires are dumb.
regardless, it loks as iff the sidewall just kinda came off hte tread, lol again.
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look
i dont know WHOT THE FUCK is going to spend 1000 on tires
i can get brand new federals in 19s for like 120ea shipped to japan.
18s, i spend like 400
you guys spending all this cash on these tires are dumb.
regardless, it loks as iff the sidewall just kinda came off hte tread, lol again.
Yokotas13;121255 wrote:look
i dont know WHOT THE FUCK is going to spend 1000 on tires
i can get brand new federals in 19s for like 120ea shipped to japan.
18s, i spend like 400
you guys spending all this cash on these tires are dumb.
regardless, it loks as iff the sidewall just kinda came off hte tread, lol again.
Pretty sweet prices, I should look into your suppliers lol
I paid 400, at employee markup on clearance pricing for a set of Chinabrand 225/40R18s
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[QUOTE=Yokotas13;121255]look
i dont know WHOT THE FUCK is going to spend 1000 on tires
i can get brand new federals in 19s for like 120ea shipped to japan.
18s, i spend like 400
you guys spending all this cash on these tires are dumb.
regardless, it loks as iff the sidewall just kinda came off hte tread, lol again.[/QUOTE]
Pretty sweet prices, I should look into your suppliers lol
I paid 400, at employee markup on clearance pricing for a set of Chinabrand 225/40R18s
citytireonline.com
thats who i get al lmy tires from
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citytireonline.com
thats who i get al lmy tires from
Caoboy;121121 wrote:Um, you aren't lowered as much as anyone else posting in this thread. That's the reason you are getting away with so long on your tires, you still have wheel gap.
Ride height has nothing to do with tire wear at all. If you are talking about having the tires rub or something and prematurely wearing out the tires then thats something else. You can take your car, slam it on the ground and get the alignment set and raise it up donk-style and have the alignment set to the same specs as it would with it slammed and your tire wear will be the same.
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[quote=Caoboy;121121]Um, you aren't lowered as much as anyone else posting in this thread. That's the reason you are getting away with so long on your tires, you still have wheel gap.[/quote]
Ride height has nothing to do with tire wear at all. If you are talking about having the tires rub or something and prematurely wearing out the tires then thats something else. You can take your car, slam it on the ground and get the alignment set and raise it up donk-style and have the alignment set to the same specs as it would with it slammed and your tire wear will be the same.
you can get more life with your tires from massive cambering by just switching the rear tires. put the unaffected thread on contact to the street and let the bald area sit out side. I got my tires like that now... and it looks like I im running 19' slicks on the rear. lol.
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you can get more life with your tires from massive cambering by just switching the rear tires. put the unaffected thread on contact to the street and let the bald area sit out side. I got my tires like that now... and it looks like I im running 19' slicks on the rear. lol.
LOL
ok, so i looked at them
the tread was about 85%. no wear what sooever
however, the entire length of the inner sidewall was folded in on each other, and worn.
time to find a better tire
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LOL
ok, so i looked at them
the tread was about 85%. no wear what sooever
however, the entire length of the inner sidewall was folded in on each other, and worn.
time to find a better tire
Delvin;121353 wrote:Ride height has nothing to do with tire wear at all. If you are talking about having the tires rub or something and prematurely wearing out the tires then thats something else. You can take your car, slam it on the ground and get the alignment set and raise it up donk-style and have the alignment set to the same specs as it would with it slammed and your tire wear will be the same.
Yeah, it'll have everything to do with it when lowering the car. you will never be able to get the camber and toe back to 0 or factory specs. Therefore, if you are not as lowered as me, and we both have alignments done, give a few months, my tires would be more worn out than yours. Ride height has everything to do with tires wearing out faster...even if it's just because the alignment won't be as close to stock. That's what I was getting at. Please don't be so quick to judge that I don't know what I am talking about.
The fact that Falk is lowered, like 1.5 inches, compared to most other owners who are on coilovers and are lowered 3+ inches or more, his tires will never wear out as fast as them.
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[quote=Delvin;121353]Ride height has nothing to do with tire wear at all. If you are talking about having the tires rub or something and prematurely wearing out the tires then thats something else. You can take your car, slam it on the ground and get the alignment set and raise it up donk-style and have the alignment set to the same specs as it would with it slammed and your tire wear will be the same.[/quote]
Yeah, it'll have everything to do with it when lowering the car. you will never be able to get the camber and toe back to 0 or factory specs. Therefore, if you are not as lowered as me, and we both have alignments done, give a few months, my tires would be more worn out than yours. Ride height has everything to do with tires wearing out faster...even if it's just because the alignment won't be as close to stock. That's what I was getting at. Please don't be so quick to judge that I don't know what I am talking about.
The fact that Falk is lowered, like 1.5 inches, compared to most other owners who are on coilovers and are lowered 3+ inches or more, his tires will never wear out as fast as them.
3?
i measured a stock y33, im lowered 5 inches from stock lol
and thats at HIGH on air, ride height is like 6" lower
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3?
i measured a stock y33, im lowered 5 inches from stock lol
and thats at HIGH on air, ride height is like 6" lower
yeah tire wear sucks. i go through a fairly new set of rears in about 3 months. then i dismount them and put the worn side on teh outside and run on the almost new inner edge for another 3 months.
luckily i get free tires from work, all the throwaways from rich porsche, audi and jaguar owners. i just collect them when i see a good single or pair in the shed, boom they disappear into my car and i save them for later.
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yeah tire wear sucks. i go through a fairly new set of rears in about 3 months. then i dismount them and put the worn side on teh outside and run on the almost new inner edge for another 3 months.
luckily i get free tires from work, all the throwaways from rich porsche, audi and jaguar owners. i just collect them when i see a good single or pair in the shed, boom they disappear into my car and i save them for later.
yeah i counted today
i have 22 tires
all 215/40 225/40 and 235/40
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yeah i counted today
i have 22 tires
all 215/40 225/40 and 235/40
Caoboy;121365 wrote:Yeah, it'll have everything to do with it when lowering the car. you will never be able to get the camber and toe back to 0 or factory specs. Therefore, if you are not as lowered as me, and we both have alignments done, give a few months, my tires would be more worn out than yours. Ride height has everything to do with tires wearing out faster...even if it's just because the alignment won't be as close to stock. That's what I was getting at. Please don't be so quick to judge that I don't know what I am talking about.
The fact that Falk is lowered, like 1.5 inches, compared to most other owners who are on coilovers and are lowered 3+ inches or more, his tires will never wear out as fast as them.
I'm not quick to judge you I'm just tryin to educate thats all. For one you are right about not being able to get the car within factory spec with factory adjustment on a car that has an extreme drop to it. Thats why they make camber correction kits for most cars out there. I've done more alignments than most technicians (8-10 daily) and one of my ASEs is in steering & suspension and this is where I get my experience from. This is what I was trying to say in my statement above:
1. Take two cars same year, make, and model
2. Lower car A 3+ inches and leave car B at stock height
3. Put same wheel and tire combo on both cars
4. Set basic alignment angles (camber, caster, toe) the same on both cars. If aftermarket parts need to be put on to do so then install them too. If you want 7 degrees of negative camber on car A you need to get car B at that too or if you want to set car A zeroed within factory spec then do the same to car B
In a senario like this both cars are going to wear their tires out at the same rate saying that idealy both cars are driven the same way. I've taken in Honduhs that have been lowered so much that the front toe beams on the heads can't even read each other due to the camber being so negative. With some sort of a camber correction device/kit (there are 3 that i know of for the honduhs I'm talking about) I am able to bring them back into factory spec so that the tires don't wear unevenly. I'm not trying to bust your balls or anything just trying to educate. Thats one of the reasons why I did so many alignments because most technicians see a lowered car and say "Theres no way you'll be able to get that within spec" then that person goes and tells their friends and then they tell theirs. I was the one telling them to bring it to me and I'll get it within spec. I just let them know what its going to take to get it done correctly if aftermarket parts are needed.
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[quote=Caoboy;121365]Yeah, it'll have everything to do with it when lowering the car. you will never be able to get the camber and toe back to 0 or factory specs. Therefore, if you are not as lowered as me, and we both have alignments done, give a few months, my tires would be more worn out than yours. Ride height has everything to do with tires wearing out faster...even if it's just because the alignment won't be as close to stock. That's what I was getting at. Please don't be so quick to judge that I don't know what I am talking about.
The fact that Falk is lowered, like 1.5 inches, compared to most other owners who are on coilovers and are lowered 3+ inches or more, his tires will never wear out as fast as them.[/quote]
I'm not quick to judge you I'm just tryin to educate thats all. For one you are right about not being able to get the car within factory spec with factory adjustment on a car that has an extreme drop to it. Thats why they make camber correction kits for most cars out there. I've done more alignments than most technicians (8-10 daily) and one of my ASEs is in steering & suspension and this is where I get my experience from. This is what I was trying to say in my statement above:
1. Take two cars same year, make, and model
2. Lower car A 3+ inches and leave car B at stock height
3. Put same wheel and tire combo on both cars
4. Set basic alignment angles (camber, caster, toe) the same on both cars. If aftermarket parts need to be put on to do so then install them too. If you want 7 degrees of negative camber on car A you need to get car B at that too or if you want to set car A zeroed within factory spec then do the same to car B
In a senario like this both cars are going to wear their tires out at the same rate saying that idealy both cars are driven the same way. I've taken in Honduhs that have been lowered so much that the front toe beams on the heads can't even read each other due to the camber being so negative. With some sort of a camber correction device/kit (there are 3 that i know of for the honduhs I'm talking about) I am able to bring them back into factory spec so that the tires don't wear unevenly. I'm not trying to bust your balls or anything just trying to educate. Thats one of the reasons why I did so many alignments because most technicians see a lowered car and say "Theres no way you'll be able to get that within spec" then that person goes and tells their friends and then they tell theirs. I was the one telling them to bring it to me and I'll get it within spec. I just let them know what its going to take to get it done correctly if aftermarket parts are needed.
but the point is, some of us here cannot get anywhere near a factory spec.
I have -15* of camber...at ride height.
im eating through sidewalls, not tires
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but the point is, some of us here cannot get anywhere near a factory spec.
I have -15* of camber...at ride height.
im eating through sidewalls, not tires
dude, goto Autobacs, Yellowhat, Autowave etc's tire mechanics and ask for tires they are about to throw out. I used to work at one of them in the tire pit and I had to throw out so much shit it wasn't funny. The worst was when I had to throw out a perfect set of OZ OperaIIs w/ tires b/c the owner wanted it disposed and paid for disposal fee b/c he curb rashed two.
Beg the crap out of them, they may give in and give you tire.
and what's your set up like? Still on stock arms/rods?
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dude, goto Autobacs, Yellowhat, Autowave etc's tire mechanics and ask for tires they are about to throw out. I used to work at one of them in the tire pit and I had to throw out so much shit it wasn't funny. The worst was when I had to throw out a perfect set of OZ OperaIIs w/ tires b/c the owner wanted it disposed and paid for disposal fee b/c he curb rashed two.
Beg the crap out of them, they may give in and give you tire.
and what's your set up like? Still on stock arms/rods?
whos setup?
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whos setup?
Yokotas13;121577 wrote:but the point is, some of us here cannot get anywhere near a factory spec.
I have -15* of camber...at ride height.
im eating through sidewalls, not tires
run motorcycle tires!!:naughty:
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[QUOTE=Yokotas13;121577]but the point is, some of us here cannot get anywhere near a factory spec.
I have -15* of camber...at ride height.
im eating through sidewalls, not tires[/QUOTE]
run motorcycle tires!!:naughty:
actually, thats not a bad fucking idea
ill have to look into that
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actually, thats not a bad fucking idea
ill have to look into that
I've gone through several sets of FK452's. They are GARBAGE. I hate to say that because Falken is a reputable company. But ALL the tires I ended up buying bubbled. I drive very carefully and know my local roads, rarely if ever do I hit potholes. Here is why I think the FK452's bubble.
-Running negative camber (-2 front and -3.2 rear )
-FK452 2 layer Nylon Sidewall design
Camber and heat isolated on the inner portion of tire leads to separated inner sidewalls (2 layer sidewall design).
My (Falken & Nexen) load rating was/is 91 front and 93 rear.
My new tires are Nexen n3000 235/35R19 and 245/35R19.They have a single layer sidewall design.
I think Falkens when get heated up on their sidewalls if causes the two layer to separate. This is just an assumption. Needless to say I have given up on the FK452's.
After you go riding feel the tire and you'll notice the side with more negative camber is hotter than the outer tire. DUH right?
If I have problems with the Nexens, then I have to reconfigure my RUCA's. Lastly I am on Tein S-tech like Falk. I definately do need new suspension soon front suspension (OEM struts) is DOO-DOO.
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I've gone through several sets of FK452's. They are GARBAGE. I hate to say that because Falken is a reputable company. But ALL the tires I ended up buying bubbled. I drive very carefully and know my local roads, rarely if ever do I hit potholes. Here is why I think the FK452's bubble.
-Running negative camber (-2 front and -3.2 rear )
-FK452 2 layer Nylon Sidewall design
Camber and heat isolated on the inner portion of tire leads to separated inner sidewalls (2 layer sidewall design).
My (Falken & Nexen) load rating was/is 91 front and 93 rear.
My new tires are Nexen n3000 235/35R19 and 245/35R19.They have a single layer sidewall design.
I think Falkens when get heated up on their sidewalls if causes the two layer to separate. This is just an assumption. Needless to say I have given up on the FK452's.
After you go riding feel the tire and you'll notice the side with more negative camber is hotter than the outer tire. DUH right?
If I have problems with the Nexens, then I have to reconfigure my RUCA's. Lastly I am on Tein S-tech like Falk. I definately do need new suspension soon front suspension (OEM struts) is DOO-DOO.
volkgt7;121690 wrote:run motorcycle tires!!:naughty:
He'll be starting a whole new trend........tread stretching!!!
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[quote=volkgt7;121690]run motorcycle tires!!:naughty:[/quote]
He'll be starting a whole new trend........tread stretching!!!
Stock camber settings are gay.
G.
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Stock camber settings are gay.
G.
Hey guys,
Do you guys worry about the overall diameter of your tires. I heard that if you exceed more than 3% of the OEM tires diameter that came with your car then it will cause a risk of brake failure. Is this true? Also how come i see many of you guys go 30 side wall for the front and 35 side wall in the rear. Is it not ok/safe to go 30 side wall all around?
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Hey guys,
Do you guys worry about the overall diameter of your tires. I heard that if you exceed more than 3% of the OEM tires diameter that came with your car then it will cause a risk of brake failure. Is this true? Also how come i see many of you guys go 30 side wall for the front and 35 side wall in the rear. Is it not ok/safe to go 30 side wall all around?