Lexus382January 31, 2008
#123289JZS147 2JZ-GTE SWAP INFO
What to consider when doing a swap on a first gen GS300. First thing is to make sure you have enough money to do this project. Expect to pay anywhere from $3000 to $6000 depending on how elaborate you are going to get with upgrades. i can say after owning the car for 65k miles stock and then doing the swap it makes the car a lot of fun to drive. i have done several swaps(about 20 so far) so if anyone has any questions just let me know. here is a list of the misc parts that you need.
1. Supra TT water pump is a must. The Aristo has a funky hydro fan that runs off the water pump. Can you re use the hydro pump? Sure, but if it breaks you are SOL. To put on a water pump you need to tear down the front of the motor past the timing belt so it’s best to do it out of the car.
2. Timing belt. You are already in there for the water pump so might as well. Line up the crank mark to 0 and there are two marks on the cams that will line up with two small indentation in the black metal surrounding the cams. If all that lines up you are at top dead center.
3. Supra throttle cable. A must have if you want to drive it. Put this in while the motor is out.
4. Valve cover gaskets. I did it because it’s easier out of the car. Don’t over torque those or you will crack one like I did. I was able to have my buddy tig it and it doesn’t leak. I got lucky. $20
5. Motor mounts. Lexus has fluid filled motor mounts that are almost always crap by the time you do a motor swap. Do yourself a favor and get them ahead of time or else you will have a show stopper without one.
6. Upper intake manifold gasket. You need to drill and tap the intake manifold with a 3/8 hose barb for a vacuum line fitting for the brakes. The Aristo has hydro brakes and no you don’t want them. You have to remove the manifold to drill and tap obviously so make sure you wash it out good with parts cleaner to avoid shavings.
7. Wire and shrink wrap. You will need to at a minimum extend the wires for the cabin harness. About 75 wires 20 inches. About 125 ft of wire.
8. Oil filter and oil.
9. If you don’t have an Aristo drive shaft you may need to swap the 3 pronged bracket off your GE trans to the GTE trans to use your GS driveshaft. If the rubber coupling between the trans and shaft is cracking, replace it. It will destroy itself under more torque if it’s already dry. Check the rear rubber coupling at the diff while you’re at it.
10. I recomend the OEM fans.
11. Trans cooler. GTE transmissions don’t like to overheat, then again what trans does. I picked up a small B&M trans cooler and placed it on the other side of my puller fan on the thermostat.
12. Spark plugs. Don’t rely on the plugs that came with the clip. I run NGK 6097 and I gap them down to about .026 ish. They will spread a little bit so I figure it’s better to start smaller gap. $12
13. Fuel pump. I made 325 rwhp on the stock fuel pump and no sign of running out. How long will it last like that I don't know.
14. Greddy BCC. If you plan on going over 11psi you will need a boost cut controller. This is a voltage clamp that goes inline with your map sensor. If you need a wiring pin out look up the directions for an APEXi AFC JZS147.
15. Supra radiator. Your current upper radiator hose is exactly where the pipe comes into the throttle body. Change radiators or try to find some funky hose that may fit but not look right.
16. in order for the turbos to clear the firewall it must be pushed back about an inch on the passenger side about an inch to the left of where the exhaust will route down.
Things you should know. The stock turbos have a ceramic center shafts where the USDM turbos have steel shafts, thus they will absolutely crap out at above 14 PSI. a single swap or us turbos are a good idea before installing the engine. The stock map sensor does not read absolute boost accurately. Once you get over 13psi the resolution is awful. I used my AFC to read pressure and it pegged at 14psi on a regular boost gauge but said 1.22 bar on the AFC. 1.22 bar is about 18psi. I got just under 400 rwhp with the stock map sensor before it’s to lean to go any further. You will need to do another work around if you want more than 400 rwhp. But then again the stock trans is only good to 450 rwhp realistically and the stock turbos will only do 350 efficiently. To put it bluntly, if you want more than 400 rear wheels it will cost you.To bypass the factory map you need to purchase a Greddy Boost Cut Controller(BCC) for about $65. The part number SW-20 and is specific for MR2's but work on 2JZ-GTE's. What it is basically is a voltage clamp. It will only allow the map to reach the designated voltage which you will set under the boost cut. You need a multi-meter to dial it in correctly. Attach the wire going to the ECU to the positive end of the multi-meter, I think it was green. The black to ground and the red and white signal wire to the battery. Inside the case there is a dial that you can turn to adjust the voltage.
The only guage in the dash that will not work will be the tachometer. Locate the resister that has R7 right above it and jump a wire from one side to the other.
I used Supra mounts. they need to be 97+ and you will need to drill out the holes in the crossmemeber to make them fit. They will lower the engine about .25 inches.
The differences between the Aristo and the USDM Supra are:
Aristo uses high impedence 440's and the Supra uses low impedence 550's. The 440's have actually be flow tested by a few guys and they come out to be 480's.
The twin turbos on the Aristo will flow less than the Supra even though they are slightly larger. Expect 350 wheels from the Aristo and low 400's on a full BPU Supra set up.
Waterpump obviously.
The USDM intake cam has 9 more degrees of duration. It's a good swap that you can pick up pretty cheap. All the gains will be above 4500 rpms. With cam gears expect a solid 20 rwhp pick up. The exhaust cam is the same duration on both.
The oil pan on the Aristo has a front sump pick up and the Supra has a rear. A dead give away on a visual inspection.
The downpipe flange off the Aristo turbos will not directly link up to a supra downpipe without modification. You can't just pick up a downpipe off ebay and have it fit.
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[SIZE=2] [/SIZE][FONT=Times New Roman] [/FONT][SIZE=2] [/SIZE][FONT=Times New Roman]What to consider when doing a swap on a first gen GS300. First thing is to make sure you have enough money to do this project. Expect to pay anywhere from $3000 to $6000 depending on how elaborate you are going to get with upgrades. i can say after owning the car for 65k miles stock and then doing the swap it makes the car a lot of fun to drive. i have done several swaps(about 20 so far) so if anyone has any questions just let me know. here is a list of the misc parts that you need. 1. Supra TT water pump is a must. The Aristo has a funky hydro fan that runs off the water pump. Can you re use the hydro pump? Sure, but if it breaks you are SOL. To put on a water pump you need to tear down the front of the motor past the timing belt so it’s best to do it out of the car. 2. Timing belt. You are already in there for the water pump so might as well. Line up the crank mark to 0 and there are two marks on the cams that will line up with two small indentation in the black metal surrounding the cams. If all that lines up you are at top dead center. 3. Supra throttle cable. A must have if you want to drive it. Put this in while the motor is out. 4. Valve cover gaskets. I did it because it’s easier out of the car. Don’t over torque those or you will crack one like I did. I was able to have my buddy tig it and it doesn’t leak. I got lucky. $20 5. Motor mounts. Lexus has fluid filled motor mounts that are almost always crap by the time you do a motor swap. Do yourself a favor and get them ahead of time or else you will have a show stopper without one. 6. Upper intake manifold gasket. You need to drill and tap the intake manifold with a 3/8 hose barb for a vacuum line fitting for the brakes. The Aristo has hydro brakes and no you don’t want them. You have to remove the manifold to drill and tap obviously so make sure you wash it out good with parts cleaner to avoid shavings. 7. Wire and shrink wrap. You will need to at a minimum extend the wires for the cabin harness. About 75 wires 20 inches. About 125 ft of wire. 8. Oil filter and oil. 9. If you don’t have an Aristo drive shaft you may need to swap the 3 pronged bracket off your GE trans to the GTE trans to use your GS driveshaft. If the rubber coupling between the trans and shaft is cracking, replace it. It will destroy itself under more torque if it’s already dry. Check the rear rubber coupling at the diff while you’re at it. 10. I recomend the OEM fans. 11. Trans cooler. GTE transmissions don’t like to overheat, then again what trans does. I picked up a small B&M trans cooler and placed it on the other side of my puller fan on the thermostat. 12. Spark plugs. Don’t rely on the plugs that came with the clip. I run NGK 6097 and I gap them down to about .026 ish. They will spread a little bit so I figure it’s better to start smaller gap. $12 13. Fuel pump. I made 325 rwhp on the stock fuel pump and no sign of running out. How long will it last like that I don't know. 14. Greddy BCC. If you plan on going over 11psi you will need a boost cut controller. This is a voltage clamp that goes inline with your map sensor. If you need a wiring pin out look up the directions for an APEXi AFC JZS147. 15. Supra radiator. Your current upper radiator hose is exactly where the pipe comes into the throttle body. Change radiators or try to find some funky hose that may fit but not look right. 16. in order for the turbos to clear the firewall it must be pushed back about an inch on the passenger side about an inch to the left of where the exhaust will route down. Things you should know. The stock turbos have a ceramic center shafts where the USDM turbos have steel shafts, thus they will absolutely crap out at above 14 PSI. a single swap or us turbos are a good idea before installing the engine. The stock map sensor does not read absolute boost accurately. Once you get over 13psi the resolution is awful. I used my AFC to read pressure and it pegged at 14psi on a regular boost gauge but said 1.22 bar on the AFC. 1.22 bar is about 18psi. I got just under 400 rwhp with the stock map sensor before it’s to lean to go any further. You will need to do another work around if you want more than 400 rwhp. But then again the stock trans is only good to 450 rwhp realistically and the stock turbos will only do 350 efficiently. To put it bluntly, if you want more than 400 rear wheels it will cost you.To bypass the factory map you need to purchase a Greddy Boost Cut Controller(BCC) for about $65. The part number SW-20 and is specific for MR2's but work on 2JZ-GTE's. What it is basically is a voltage clamp. It will only allow the map to reach the designated voltage which you will set under the boost cut. You need a multi-meter to dial it in correctly. Attach the wire going to the ECU to the positive end of the multi-meter, I think it was green. The black to ground and the red and white signal wire to the battery. Inside the case there is a dial that you can turn to adjust the voltage. The only guage in the dash that will not work will be the tachometer. Locate the resister that has R7 right above it and jump a wire from one side to the other. [IMG]http://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114729&stc=1&d=1195799349[/IMG] [/FONT][SIZE=2] [/SIZE][FONT=Times New Roman]I used Supra mounts. they need to be 97+ and you will need to drill out the holes in the crossmemeber to make them fit. They will lower the engine about .25 inches. The differences between the Aristo and the USDM Supra are: Aristo uses high impedence 440's and the Supra uses low impedence 550's. The 440's have actually be flow tested by a few guys and they come out to be 480's. The twin turbos on the Aristo will flow less than the Supra even though they are slightly larger. Expect 350 wheels from the Aristo and low 400's on a full BPU Supra set up. Waterpump obviously. The USDM intake cam has 9 more degrees of duration. It's a good swap that you can pick up pretty cheap. All the gains will be above 4500 rpms. With cam gears expect a solid 20 rwhp pick up. The exhaust cam is the same duration on both. The oil pan on the Aristo has a front sump pick up and the Supra has a rear. A dead give away on a visual inspection. The downpipe flange off the Aristo turbos will not directly link up to a supra downpipe without modification. You can't just pick up a downpipe off ebay and have it fit. [/FONT]