Free subwoofer box design service
Hey guys since I'm relatively new here... I thought I'd be a contributor to the group. My background is more in car audio stuff so I've done a good deal of research on it and can answer a ton of product, install, troubleshooting questions. thats not what this thread is about though.
basically, lets say you have an LS400 and you want a sub box that will fit perfectly between the wheel wells but you can't find a prefab box that is those dimensions or maybe you realize that you can save a ton of money by building the box yourself. Take the measurements, decide on what kind of box you want (sealed, ported, tuning...) then post in here and ask be to design the box.... wait a day or too and BLAMMO.... you'll have a nice 3d image of the box with dimensions.
I'll post some examples...
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Hey guys since I'm relatively new here... I thought I'd be a contributor to the group. My background is more in car audio stuff so I've done a good deal of research on it and can answer a ton of product, install, troubleshooting questions. thats not what this thread is about though.
basically, lets say you have an LS400 and you want a sub box that will fit perfectly between the wheel wells but you can't find a prefab box that is those dimensions or maybe you realize that you can save a ton of money by building the box yourself. Take the measurements, decide on what kind of box you want (sealed, ported, tuning...) then post in here and ask be to design the box.... wait a day or too and BLAMMO.... you'll have a nice 3d image of the box with dimensions.
I'll post some examples...
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Here are some examples of boxes I've done for other people.
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/32cube46hzVentedforSingle15-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/11cube35hzVentedfor7Kv.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/KoveboxSQ.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/41cube41hzVentedforSingle12.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/60hz4thOrderBPfor7Kv.jpg[/IMG]
Also note... I design all the boxes using winISD and draw them up in Google sketchup. and If you ask me for advice I will almost always push you towards a SQ setup rather than a SPL setup since I think its more representative of the VIP style, leave SPL for the immature high schoolers.
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Also note... I design all the boxes using winISD and draw them up in Google sketchup. and If you ask me for advice I will almost always push you towards a SQ setup rather than a SPL setup since I think its more representative of the VIP style, leave SPL for the immature high schoolers.
Cool! thats a very helpful service you are offering!
By the way, the inner baffle design you have on those examples, is that basically a ported box? Or Bandpass? I forgot how the different designs work.
Anyway i do have a question. I want to put 2 12" subs in either a ported or sealed box at the back of my boot (against the fuel tank). The catch is, i DONT want to sacrifice much boot space (since i use it to carry wheels and stuff). So if i remember correctly, sealed will allow the smallest box volume right?
Next dilemma is the dimensions, i was hoping to have it under 6" deep, but make up the volume in width/height (basically taking up the entire width and height of the boot, but only 5-6" deep. Would that work? Or is there a recommended shape? If it is a possibility, i will take measurements and post them up for you... thanks!
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Cool! thats a very helpful service you are offering!
By the way, the inner baffle design you have on those examples, is that basically a ported box? Or Bandpass? I forgot how the different designs work.
Anyway i do have a question. I want to put 2 12" subs in either a ported or sealed box at the back of my boot (against the fuel tank). The catch is, i DONT want to sacrifice much boot space (since i use it to carry wheels and stuff). So if i remember correctly, sealed will allow the smallest box volume right?
Next dilemma is the dimensions, i was hoping to have it under 6" deep, but make up the volume in width/height (basically taking up the entire width and height of the boot, but only 5-6" deep. Would that work? Or is there a recommended shape? If it is a possibility, i will take measurements and post them up for you... thanks!
Those are very interesting designs dude! Is there a way to make 12" 400W RMS subs sound twice as powerful using a different sub box design?
I have classmates that has a Best Buy sub boxes and higher end subwoofer and amp and they sound like crap when the thump resonates through the cheap box making it vibrate and go berserk. (They are stupid and deaf when they thought they sound amazingly good when the box vibrates though.)
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Those are very interesting designs dude! Is there a way to make 12" 400W RMS subs sound twice as powerful using a different sub box design?
I have classmates that has a Best Buy sub boxes and higher end subwoofer and amp and they sound like crap when the thump resonates through the cheap box making it vibrate and go berserk. (They are stupid and deaf when they thought they sound amazingly good when the box vibrates though.)
Dominik;123447 wrote:Cool! thats a very helpful service you are offering!
By the way, the inner baffle design you have on those examples, is that basically a ported box? Or Bandpass? I forgot how the different designs work.
Anyway i do have a question. I want to put 2 12" subs in either a ported or sealed box at the back of my boot (against the fuel tank). The catch is, i DONT want to sacrifice much boot space (since i use it to carry wheels and stuff). So if i remember correctly, sealed will allow the smallest box volume right?
Next dilemma is the dimensions, i was hoping to have it under 6" deep, but make up the volume in width/height (basically taking up the entire width and height of the boot, but only 5-6" deep. Would that work? Or is there a recommended shape? If it is a possibility, i will take measurements and post them up for you... thanks!
hey dom....if you wanna save space and you have 2 subs you can go with an isobarick set-up... it cuts your required box size in half
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[quote=Dominik;123447]Cool! thats a very helpful service you are offering!
By the way, the inner baffle design you have on those examples, is that basically a ported box? Or Bandpass? I forgot how the different designs work.
Anyway i do have a question. I want to put 2 12" subs in either a ported or sealed box at the back of my boot (against the fuel tank). The catch is, i DONT want to sacrifice much boot space (since i use it to carry wheels and stuff). So if i remember correctly, sealed will allow the smallest box volume right?
Next dilemma is the dimensions, i was hoping to have it under 6" deep, but make up the volume in width/height (basically taking up the entire width and height of the boot, but only 5-6" deep. Would that work? Or is there a recommended shape? If it is a possibility, i will take measurements and post them up for you... thanks![/quote]
hey dom....if you wanna save space and you have 2 subs you can go with an isobarick set-up... it cuts your required box size in half
Dominik wrote:
By the way, the inner baffle design you have on those examples, is that basically a ported box? Or Bandpass? I forgot how the different designs work.
all of those posted are ported boxes except the last one was a 4th order bandpass. 4th order bandpass means a sealed box on one side of the driver and a ported box on the other side of the driver... it is used to either increase efficiency with the cost of less bandwidth, or increase bandwidth with the cost of less efficiency. I usually stay away from them since those designs are alot less forgiving when it comes to design and build flaws. Sealed is easiest, followed by ported, followed by bandpass and transmission lines/horns.
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[QUOTE=Dominik]
By the way, the inner baffle design you have on those examples, is that basically a ported box? Or Bandpass? I forgot how the different designs work.[/QUOTE]
all of those posted are ported boxes except the last one was a 4th order bandpass. 4th order bandpass means a sealed box on one side of the driver and a ported box on the other side of the driver... it is used to either increase efficiency with the cost of less bandwidth, or increase bandwidth with the cost of less efficiency. I usually stay away from them since those designs are alot less forgiving when it comes to design and build flaws. Sealed is easiest, followed by ported, followed by bandpass and transmission lines/horns.
hey broken...ever built an ABC box???
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hey broken...ever built an ABC box???
Dominik;123447 wrote:
Anyway i do have a question. I want to put 2 12" subs in either a ported or sealed box at the back of my boot (against the fuel tank). The catch is, i DONT want to sacrifice much boot space (since i use it to carry wheels and stuff). So if i remember correctly, sealed will allow the smallest box volume right?
Next dilemma is the dimensions, i was hoping to have it under 6" deep, but make up the volume in width/height (basically taking up the entire width and height of the boot, but only 5-6" deep. Would that work? Or is there a recommended shape? If it is a possibility, i will take measurements and post them up for you... thanks!
In this situation I'd recommend using 2-4 of the Elemental Designs SQ10 or the Tang Band 10" neo sub (they are the same woofer, there was some drama about who came up with it first but buy whatever is cheaper) They are only about 3.5" deep and don't require very much box space, only about .4 cubic feet.
So if you have say ~48" across and 12" high and 6" deep then you have room for 4 of those things... which would be just a tad less output then a pair of entry level 12" subs. throw about 600-700W at those things and you will have a solid substage, not SPL competition loud but MUCH louder than the stock bose setup in the Y33's.
whats in the Y32's stock?
I'd either do that or fiberglass some 12's or 15's into the sides of the trunk.
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[QUOTE=Dominik;123447]
Anyway i do have a question. I want to put 2 12" subs in either a ported or sealed box at the back of my boot (against the fuel tank). The catch is, i DONT want to sacrifice much boot space (since i use it to carry wheels and stuff). So if i remember correctly, sealed will allow the smallest box volume right?
Next dilemma is the dimensions, i was hoping to have it under 6" deep, but make up the volume in width/height (basically taking up the entire width and height of the boot, but only 5-6" deep. Would that work? Or is there a recommended shape? If it is a possibility, i will take measurements and post them up for you... thanks![/QUOTE]
In this situation I'd recommend using 2-4 of the Elemental Designs SQ10 or the Tang Band 10" neo sub (they are the same woofer, there was some drama about who came up with it first but buy whatever is cheaper) They are only about 3.5" deep and don't require very much box space, only about .4 cubic feet.
So if you have say ~48" across and 12" high and 6" deep then you have room for 4 of those things... which would be just a tad less output then a pair of entry level 12" subs. throw about 600-700W at those things and you will have a solid substage, not SPL competition loud but MUCH louder than the stock bose setup in the Y33's.
whats in the Y32's stock?
I'd either do that or fiberglass some 12's or 15's into the sides of the trunk.
forpinks;123461 wrote:Those are very interesting designs dude! Is there a way to make 12" 400W RMS subs sound twice as powerful using a different sub box design?
I have classmates that has a Best Buy sub boxes and higher end subwoofer and amp and they sound like crap when the thump resonates through the cheap box making it vibrate and go berserk. (They are stupid and deaf when they thought they sound amazingly good when the box vibrates though.)
twice as powerful.... depends on how you define powerful. when designing a sub box you have to decide what bandwidth you want, ie how low do you need the subs to hit... the more bandwidth you need, the less efficient the setup will be. But lets say you don't care about actually listening to music... you just want to be the loudest kid on the block... the you design a high tuned ported box or a very efficient bandpass box and you'll have what we like to call a one note wonder. at a very small set of frequencies the setup will be crazy loud, nothing above it and nothing below it though. so to answer your question yes, box design will often have more impact to the sound of your substage than the drivers chosen.
tell your buddies that if their box itself is rattling then they are losing output.
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[QUOTE=forpinks;123461]Those are very interesting designs dude! Is there a way to make 12" 400W RMS subs sound twice as powerful using a different sub box design?
I have classmates that has a Best Buy sub boxes and higher end subwoofer and amp and they sound like crap when the thump resonates through the cheap box making it vibrate and go berserk. (They are stupid and deaf when they thought they sound amazingly good when the box vibrates though.)[/QUOTE]
twice as powerful.... depends on how you define powerful. when designing a sub box you have to decide what bandwidth you want, ie how low do you need the subs to hit... the more bandwidth you need, the less efficient the setup will be. But lets say you don't care about actually listening to music... you just want to be the loudest kid on the block... the you design a high tuned ported box or a very efficient bandpass box and you'll have what we like to call a one note wonder. at a very small set of frequencies the setup will be crazy loud, nothing above it and nothing below it though. so to answer your question yes, box design will often have more impact to the sound of your substage than the drivers chosen.
tell your buddies that if their box itself is rattling then they are losing output.
DEE;123489 wrote:hey broken...ever built an ABC box???
I've not built one, I've read about them, basically they are just a series tuned 8th order bandpass... like I said above, bandpass designs are harder to design, harder to build, and less forgiving when you make a mistake.... plus they are HUGE... very HUGE. Not worth the time and effort if you ask me. again though I'm not an SPL sort of guy so you won't find me going the extra mile for those few extra dB's.
another note on bandpass boxes, as you go up in orders, the group delay goes up. Higher group delay is a contributing factor to what alot of people refer to as "sloppy" bass. basically the way a port works is the woofer excites the air in the port and gets the port to resonate. This is why the volume of the port is what tunes the port. Well it takes time for the port to begin resonating and when the woofer changes frequencies it takes time for the port to stop resonating... thus "sloppy". bandpass designs are adding up the group delay of multiple boxes. I'm not saying they can't sound good, I'm saying its difficult to make them sound good.
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[QUOTE=DEE;123489]hey broken...ever built an ABC box???[/QUOTE]
I've not built one, I've read about them, basically they are just a series tuned 8th order bandpass... like I said above, bandpass designs are harder to design, harder to build, and less forgiving when you make a mistake.... plus they are HUGE... very HUGE. Not worth the time and effort if you ask me. again though I'm not an SPL sort of guy so you won't find me going the extra mile for those few extra dB's.
another note on bandpass boxes, as you go up in orders, the group delay goes up. Higher group delay is a contributing factor to what alot of people refer to as "sloppy" bass. basically the way a port works is the woofer excites the air in the port and gets the port to resonate. This is why the volume of the port is what tunes the port. Well it takes time for the port to begin resonating and when the woofer changes frequencies it takes time for the port to stop resonating... thus "sloppy". bandpass designs are adding up the group delay of multiple boxes. I'm not saying they can't sound good, I'm saying its difficult to make them sound good.
DEE;123475 wrote:hey dom....if you wanna save space and you have 2 subs you can go with an isobarick set-up... it cuts your required box size in half
that is true, but its only as loud as one woofer. Isobaric cuts the box in half, doubles the power handling but the downside is its only as loud as a single driver. not worth it in my opinion.
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[QUOTE=DEE;123475]hey dom....if you wanna save space and you have 2 subs you can go with an isobarick set-up... it cuts your required box size in half[/QUOTE]
that is true, but its only as loud as one woofer. Isobaric cuts the box in half, doubles the power handling but the downside is its only as loud as a single driver. not worth it in my opinion.
Brokenbc;123497 wrote:twice as powerful.... depends on how you define powerful. when designing a sub box you have to decide what bandwidth you want, ie how low do you need the subs to hit... the more bandwidth you need, the less efficient the setup will be. But lets say you don't care about actually listening to music... you just want to be the loudest kid on the block... the you design a high tuned ported box or a very efficient bandpass box and you'll have what we like to call a one note wonder. at a very small set of frequencies the setup will be crazy loud, nothing above it and nothing below it though. so to answer your question yes, box design will often have more impact to the sound of your substage than the drivers chosen.
tell your buddies that if their box itself is rattling then they are losing output.
I'm into the sound quality since I listen to classic rock and I play drums and bass guitar so, the sound quality is a must. I just want a setup that can make the tom and bass drums be heard realistically and hope I won't sound like an ass when driving around the city or the community. (you know what I mean...=))
BTW: My classmates that show off their systems aren't my friends, they are just some deaf and dumb A-Holes trying to be obnoxiously loud when driving to IN n Out or the mall with their "bootylicious "Latina GFs even if they are white peeps... :pat:
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[quote=Brokenbc;123497]twice as powerful.... depends on how you define powerful. when designing a sub box you have to decide what bandwidth you want, ie how low do you need the subs to hit... the more bandwidth you need, the less efficient the setup will be. But lets say you don't care about actually listening to music... you just want to be the loudest kid on the block... the you design a high tuned ported box or a very efficient bandpass box and you'll have what we like to call a one note wonder. at a very small set of frequencies the setup will be crazy loud, nothing above it and nothing below it though. so to answer your question yes, box design will often have more impact to the sound of your substage than the drivers chosen.
tell your buddies that if their box itself is rattling then they are losing output.[/quote]
I'm into the sound quality since I listen to classic rock and I play drums and bass guitar so, the sound quality is a must. I just want a setup that can make the tom and bass drums be heard realistically and hope I won't sound like an ass when driving around the city or the community. (you know what I mean...=))
BTW: My classmates that show off their systems aren't my friends, they are just some deaf and dumb A-Holes trying to be obnoxiously loud when driving to IN n Out or the mall with their "bootylicious "Latina GFs even if they are white peeps... :pat:
Brokenbc;123502 wrote:I've not built one, I've read about them, basically they are just a series tuned 8th order bandpass... like I said above, bandpass designs are harder to design, harder to build, and less forgiving when you make a mistake.... plus they are HUGE... very HUGE. Not worth the time and effort if you ask me. again though I'm not an SPL sort of guy so you won't find me going the extra mile for those few extra dB's.
The reason I asked was because I've never heard one and wanted to get your opinion. I also build boxes but never an ABC.... Imma experiment and build one for my buddy this weekend .
Brokenbc;123505 wrote:that is true, but its only as loud as one woofer. Isobaric cuts the box in half, doubles the power handling but the downside is its only as loud as a single driver. not worth it in my opinion.
It's worth it to someone concerned about box size.
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[quote=Brokenbc;123502]I've not built one, I've read about them, basically they are just a series tuned 8th order bandpass... like I said above, bandpass designs are harder to design, harder to build, and less forgiving when you make a mistake.... plus they are HUGE... very HUGE. Not worth the time and effort if you ask me. again though I'm not an SPL sort of guy so you won't find me going the extra mile for those few extra dB's.
[/quote]
The reason I asked was because I've never heard one and wanted to get your opinion. I also build boxes but never an ABC.... Imma experiment and build one for my buddy this weekend .
[quote=Brokenbc;123505]that is true, but its only as loud as one woofer. Isobaric cuts the box in half, doubles the power handling but the downside is its only as loud as a single driver. not worth it in my opinion.[/quote]
It's worth it to someone concerned about box size.
You are a great man.
This is my setup right now. Designed ect by JL.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_enclosures.php?menu=8&prod_id=320
And i was wondering, is there any other box design that would sound alot better then that?
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You are a great man.
This is my setup right now. Designed ect by JL.
[url]http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_enclosures.php?menu=8&prod_id=320[/url]
And i was wondering, is there any other box design that would sound alot better then that?
Hey, thanks for the info... Those SQ10/Tangband neo subs are quite affordable (going by the US price pages, i bet they are at LEAST double the price in australia). But for arguments sake, what about using regular subs (like i have lying around my garage lol). Can they be used in shallow boxes? By shallow, i mean something just deep enough to clear the voicecoil plus 1/2" or so...
The sound system in the Y32 sucks very badly. No factory sub, just 7x4's in the rear and 5" splits in the front. Currently running 6x9s in the back and 6.5" splits up front. Did have 2 12s in a sealed box but took it out for carrying stuff!
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Hey, thanks for the info... Those SQ10/Tangband neo subs are quite affordable (going by the US price pages, i bet they are at LEAST double the price in australia). But for arguments sake, what about using regular subs (like i have lying around my garage lol). Can they be used in shallow boxes? By shallow, i mean something just deep enough to clear the voicecoil plus 1/2" or so...
The sound system in the Y32 sucks very badly. No factory sub, just 7x4's in the rear and 5" splits in the front. Currently running 6x9s in the back and 6.5" splits up front. Did have 2 12s in a sealed box but took it out for carrying stuff!
Btw Dee, if i remember correctly an isobaric setup involves 2 subs behind each other. This wouldnt work with my thin/flat box plan. Currently i have my xbox mounted on the right side of my boot, i wanted to put amps on the left side, and subs at the back (while maintaining almost full boot functionality). Other option is a single 12 on the left side with amps under a raised floor, like this guy:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/507023View original BBCode
Btw Dee, if i remember correctly an isobaric setup involves 2 subs behind each other. This wouldnt work with my thin/flat box plan. Currently i have my xbox mounted on the right side of my boot, i wanted to put amps on the left side, and subs at the back (while maintaining almost full boot functionality). Other option is a single 12 on the left side with amps under a raised floor, like this guy: [url]http://www.cardomain.com/ride/507023[/url]
XCELMotorsports;123562 wrote:You are a great man.
This is my setup right now. Designed ect by JL.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_enclosures.php?menu=8&prod_id=320
And i was wondering, is there any other box design that would sound alot better then that?
JL knows what they are doing... thats why they're so expensive. When starting from scratch I can give all kinds of recommendations but when you've already got a setup I always like to ask the question...
what exact characteristic are you looking to improve? deeper lows? louder? flatter response? and what price are you willing to pay to get it? It may not be worth the time and money to upgrade only to find your new setup is marginally "better".
I think there is no purpose in throwing money at a setup to make it "better" if you not fixing something. If it's not broke don't fix it right.
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[QUOTE=XCELMotorsports;123562]You are a great man.
This is my setup right now. Designed ect by JL.
[url]http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_enclosures.php?menu=8&prod_id=320[/url]
And i was wondering, is there any other box design that would sound alot better then that?[/QUOTE]
JL knows what they are doing... thats why they're so expensive. When starting from scratch I can give all kinds of recommendations but when you've already got a setup I always like to ask the question...
what exact characteristic are you looking to improve? deeper lows? louder? flatter response? and what price are you willing to pay to get it? It may not be worth the time and money to upgrade only to find your new setup is marginally "better".
I think there is no purpose in throwing money at a setup to make it "better" if you not fixing something. If it's not broke don't fix it right.
Dominik;123563 wrote:But for arguments sake, what about using regular subs (like i have lying around my garage lol). Can they be used in shallow boxes? By shallow, i mean something just deep enough to clear the voicecoil plus 1/2" or so...
It would totally work with the 12's, It will be deeper than the SQ10's. deeper but cheaper :runcoold:
Just make sure you willing to give up the mounting depth of the woofer + 1/2" behind the pole vent + 1.5" of wood. I don't know what kind of woofers you have in your garage but I'm guessing about 6 inches of mounting depth so you end up at about 8" lost. Is that ok by you? Maybe put some wheels in the boot and measure how much space you could give up.
really the SQ10's are a niche woofer. they are for applications where a typical sub won't fit... If you can fit a conventional subwoofer into the space then by all means use it.
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[QUOTE=Dominik;123563]But for arguments sake, what about using regular subs (like i have lying around my garage lol). Can they be used in shallow boxes? By shallow, i mean something just deep enough to clear the voicecoil plus 1/2" or so...
[/QUOTE]
It would totally work with the 12's, It will be deeper than the SQ10's. deeper but cheaper :runcoold:
Just make sure you willing to give up the mounting depth of the woofer + 1/2" behind the pole vent + 1.5" of wood. I don't know what kind of woofers you have in your garage but I'm guessing about 6 inches of mounting depth so you end up at about 8" lost. Is that ok by you? Maybe put some wheels in the boot and measure how much space you could give up.
really the SQ10's are a niche woofer. they are for applications where a typical sub won't fit... If you can fit a conventional subwoofer into the space then by all means use it.
DEE;123552 wrote:The reason I asked was because I've never heard one and wanted to get your opinion. I also build boxes but never an ABC.... Imma experiment and build one for my buddy this weekend .
let me know how you like it.
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[QUOTE=DEE;123552]The reason I asked was because I've never heard one and wanted to get your opinion. I also build boxes but never an ABC.... Imma experiment and build one for my buddy this weekend .
[/QUOTE]
let me know how you like it.
back in my car audio days, Rockford had a program called Term Pro that would do stuff like this. Pretty cool designs you got going there
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back in my car audio days, Rockford had a program called Term Pro that would do stuff like this. Pretty cool designs you got going there
Brokenbc;123583 wrote:let me know how you like it.
for sure....btw what you running and in what car???
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[quote=Brokenbc;123583]let me know how you like it.[/quote]
for sure....btw what you running and in what car???
DEE;123638 wrote:for sure....btw what you running and in what car???
I've got a black on black Y33, bought it in february. I've been gathering parts and getting ready for the install this whole time. I've got everything ready to go now just waiting for the weather to warm up since I don't have a shop to work in. but...
Carputer w/7" touchscreen (nav,MP3,Movies,Games, bluetooth phone,bla bla)
3 way active front stage with all sound processing in the carputer using VST's
pretty much anything a producer can do to a recording before putting it on a disc I can do in realtime while listening.
front will be:
a pair of blaupunkt VA4100's powering
Dayton RS225 8" midbass
DLS IR3 3" mids
LPG 26NA aluminum tweeters
subs will be:
an elemental designs Nine.1 putting about 1200W to a pair of eD 13Ov.2's mounted in the rear deck for an infinite baffle setup.
I'm really excited to get it all installed, the subs are going to be a real PITA to get in there considering I have to work around the gas tank. I'll have to completely rebuild the rear deck. Thats ok though, I've been thinking about it for along time, thats why I went with the 97-98 Y33 since the 99-01 all have the rear sunshade which would get in the way for the substage I want to install.
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[QUOTE=DEE;123638]for sure....btw what you running and in what car???[/QUOTE]
I've got a black on black Y33, bought it in february. I've been gathering parts and getting ready for the install this whole time. I've got everything ready to go now just waiting for the weather to warm up since I don't have a shop to work in. but...
Carputer w/7" touchscreen (nav,MP3,Movies,Games, bluetooth phone,bla bla)
3 way active front stage with all sound processing in the carputer using VST's
pretty much anything a producer can do to a recording before putting it on a disc I can do in realtime while listening.
front will be:
a pair of blaupunkt VA4100's powering
Dayton RS225 8" midbass
DLS IR3 3" mids
LPG 26NA aluminum tweeters
subs will be:
an elemental designs Nine.1 putting about 1200W to a pair of eD 13Ov.2's mounted in the rear deck for an infinite baffle setup.
I'm really excited to get it all installed, the subs are going to be a real PITA to get in there considering I have to work around the gas tank. I'll have to completely rebuild the rear deck. Thats ok though, I've been thinking about it for along time, thats why I went with the 97-98 Y33 since the 99-01 all have the rear sunshade which would get in the way for the substage I want to install.
i wanna run 1 jl 13.5 with a us amp prolly gonna mount the amp against the back of the fuel tank with capacitors, what dimensions would i be looking at for a slanted box that is ported, and also has the proper cu/in for the sub itself thanks in advance
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i wanna run 1 jl 13.5 with a us amp prolly gonna mount the amp against the back of the fuel tank with capacitors, what dimensions would i be looking at for a slanted box that is ported, and also has the proper cu/in for the sub itself thanks in advance
ricky cash;127693 wrote:i wanna run 1 jl 13.5 with a us amp prolly gonna mount the amp against the back of the fuel tank with capacitors, what dimensions would i be looking at for a slanted box that is ported, and also has the proper cu/in for the sub itself thanks in advance
what dimensions do you want? I can take your dimensions and design a box for you that fits in that space rather than you making space for my predesigned box.
which face of the box do you want slanted and why? the back wall of the trunk is flat isn't it? Also you'll want to know which JL sub your using. If you trying to use a W7 then we're going to have to leave alot of mounting depth in the design.... and make sure there is plenty of bracing for that BEAST :giggity:
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[QUOTE=ricky cash;127693]i wanna run 1 jl 13.5 with a us amp prolly gonna mount the amp against the back of the fuel tank with capacitors, what dimensions would i be looking at for a slanted box that is ported, and also has the proper cu/in for the sub itself thanks in advance[/QUOTE]
what dimensions do you want? I can take your dimensions and design a box for you that fits in that space rather than you making space for my predesigned box.
which face of the box do you want slanted and why? the back wall of the trunk is flat isn't it? Also you'll want to know which JL sub your using. If you trying to use a W7 then we're going to have to leave alot of mounting depth in the design.... and make sure there is plenty of bracing for that BEAST :giggity:
i wanna put it on the passenger side slanted facing the driver side of the trunk no flat against the gas tank wall. and yes w7, how much bracing besides, i wanna still have easy access in case of an emergency and i have to change a spare tire.
in essence it would be in this spot of the trunk
l________*l
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i wanna put it on the passenger side slanted facing the driver side of the trunk no flat against the gas tank wall. and yes w7, how much bracing besides, i wanna still have easy access in case of an emergency and i have to change a spare tire.
in essence it would be in this spot of the trunk
l________[U]*[/U]l
also i wanna hook up an aftermarket dvd/cd/// player w/o taking out the factory headunit, how would i go about doing that, im going blank right now.
im pretty sure the factory stereo has preamp outputs but ther would be no way for the HU to work in the car w/o getting power from the battery
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also i wanna hook up an aftermarket dvd/cd/// player w/o taking out the factory headunit, how would i go about doing that, im going blank right now.
im pretty sure the factory stereo has preamp outputs but ther would be no way for the HU to work in the car w/o getting power from the battery
Brokenbc;123348 wrote:Here are some examples of boxes I've done for other people.
you made those for me over at ICIX!!! :biggthumpup:
Haha, nice. I just got my nine.1 back yesterday. I should be up and running by Monday.
I'm really happy with the box and how it came out after I wrapped it in vinyl. The little while that it was working, it POUNDED!!
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[QUOTE=Brokenbc;123348]Here are some examples of boxes I've done for other people.
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/32cube46hzVentedforSingle15-1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/41cube41hzVentedforSingle12.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
you made those for me over at ICIX!!! :biggthumpup:
Haha, nice. I just got my nine.1 back yesterday. I should be up and running by Monday.
I'm really happy with the box and how it came out after I wrapped it in vinyl. The little while that it was working, it POUNDED!!
ricky cash;127793 wrote:i wanna put it on the passenger side slanted facing the driver side of the trunk no flat against the gas tank wall. and yes w7, how much bracing besides, i wanna still have easy access in case of an emergency and i have to change a spare tire.
in essence it would be in this spot of the trunk
l________*l
In that case I would probably build a box out of fiberglass... I'd just go with a sealed box for the sake of not having to worry about figuring out the exact box volume to calculate port length. Then just put a couple 1"x1" (or whatevers cheap) bracing front to back and side to side, Also make sure the fiberglass is PLENTY thick.
where would you put the amps?
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[QUOTE=ricky cash;127793]i wanna put it on the passenger side slanted facing the driver side of the trunk no flat against the gas tank wall. and yes w7, how much bracing besides, i wanna still have easy access in case of an emergency and i have to change a spare tire.
in essence it would be in this spot of the trunk
l________[U]*[/U]l[/QUOTE]
In that case I would probably build a box out of fiberglass... I'd just go with a sealed box for the sake of not having to worry about figuring out the exact box volume to calculate port length. Then just put a couple 1"x1" (or whatevers cheap) bracing front to back and side to side, Also make sure the fiberglass is PLENTY thick.
where would you put the amps?
ricky cash;128089 wrote:also i wanna hook up an aftermarket dvd/cd/// player w/o taking out the factory headunit, how would i go about doing that, im going blank right now.
im pretty sure the factory stereo has preamp outputs but ther would be no way for the HU to work in the car w/o getting power from the battery
You say you want an aftermarket DVD with a stock headunit? are you talking about like a single DIN dvd player in the glove box that outputs to a flip down screen, or headrest monitors? Thats pretty easy to wire up, the only hard part is getting the sound into the factory headunit but most of them you can get adaptors that will allow and aux input into the CD changer input.
as far as wiring the DVD player, you can pull pwr/gnd/rem from the back of the headunit... output the stereo RCA's into the aux input to your factory unit and output the video RCA to your screens.
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[QUOTE=ricky cash;128089]also i wanna hook up an aftermarket dvd/cd/// player w/o taking out the factory headunit, how would i go about doing that, im going blank right now.
im pretty sure the factory stereo has preamp outputs but ther would be no way for the HU to work in the car w/o getting power from the battery[/QUOTE]
You say you want an aftermarket DVD with a stock headunit? are you talking about like a single DIN dvd player in the glove box that outputs to a flip down screen, or headrest monitors? Thats pretty easy to wire up, the only hard part is getting the sound into the factory headunit but most of them you can get adaptors that will allow and aux input into the CD changer input.
as far as wiring the DVD player, you can pull pwr/gnd/rem from the back of the headunit... output the stereo RCA's into the aux input to your factory unit and output the video RCA to your screens.
the amps would be along the back of the gas tank wall.
and the HU is a replacement however i was trying not to remove the OG HU for the aftermarket, prolly was gonna hide the dvd player, but i just might remove my OG and just put a touchscreen monitor in the D-DIN to keep it looking clean and hide the DVD player somewhere else what do you think
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the amps would be along the back of the gas tank wall.
and the HU is a replacement however i was trying not to remove the OG HU for the aftermarket, prolly was gonna hide the dvd player, but i just might remove my OG and just put a touchscreen monitor in the D-DIN to keep it looking clean and hide the DVD player somewhere else what do you think
Brokenbc;123648 wrote:I've got a black on black Y33, bought it in february. I've been gathering parts and getting ready for the install this whole time. I've got everything ready to go now just waiting for the weather to warm up since I don't have a shop to work in. but...
Carputer w/7" touchscreen (nav,MP3,Movies,Games, bluetooth phone,bla bla)
3 way active front stage with all sound processing in the carputer using VST's
pretty much anything a producer can do to a recording before putting it on a disc I can do in realtime while listening.
front will be:
a pair of blaupunkt VA4100's powering
Dayton RS225 8" midbass
DLS IR3 3" mids
LPG 26NA aluminum tweeters
subs will be:
an elemental designs Nine.1 putting about 1200W to a pair of eD 13Ov.2's mounted in the rear deck for an infinite baffle setup.
I'm really excited to get it all installed, the subs are going to be a real PITA to get in there considering I have to work around the gas tank. I'll have to completely rebuild the rear deck. Thats ok though, I've been thinking about it for along time, thats why I went with the 97-98 Y33 since the 99-01 all have the rear sunshade which would get in the way for the substage I want to install.
judging by the list of equipment youll be using, id be willing to bet u spend some time on car audio forums. u should get ahold of that eD nine.5 theyre phasing out and have on sale for $350. use that and a small amp for your tweets and youre saving space all over the place. or a few pdx's. either way...
and btw, space saving? how has nobody mentioned an infinite baffle setup? brace the shit out of your rear deck, mount subs to it (proper IB subs of course) slap a moderate amount of power to them and be prepared to be blown away.
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[quote=Brokenbc;123648]I've got a black on black Y33, bought it in february. I've been gathering parts and getting ready for the install this whole time. I've got everything ready to go now just waiting for the weather to warm up since I don't have a shop to work in. but...
Carputer w/7" touchscreen (nav,MP3,Movies,Games, bluetooth phone,bla bla)
3 way active front stage with all sound processing in the carputer using VST's
pretty much anything a producer can do to a recording before putting it on a disc I can do in realtime while listening.
front will be:
a pair of blaupunkt VA4100's powering
Dayton RS225 8" midbass
DLS IR3 3" mids
LPG 26NA aluminum tweeters
subs will be:
an elemental designs Nine.1 putting about 1200W to a pair of eD 13Ov.2's mounted in the rear deck for an infinite baffle setup.
I'm really excited to get it all installed, the subs are going to be a real PITA to get in there considering I have to work around the gas tank. I'll have to completely rebuild the rear deck. Thats ok though, I've been thinking about it for along time, thats why I went with the 97-98 Y33 since the 99-01 all have the rear sunshade which would get in the way for the substage I want to install.[/quote]
judging by the list of equipment youll be using, id be willing to bet u spend some time on car audio forums. u should get ahold of that eD nine.5 theyre phasing out and have on sale for $350. use that and a small amp for your tweets and youre saving space all over the place. or a few pdx's. either way...
and btw, space saving? how has nobody mentioned an infinite baffle setup? brace the shit out of your rear deck, mount subs to it (proper IB subs of course) slap a moderate amount of power to them and be prepared to be blown away.
ricky cash;129162 wrote:the amps would be along the back of the gas tank wall.
and the HU is a replacement however i was trying not to remove the OG HU for the aftermarket, prolly was gonna hide the dvd player, but i just might remove my OG and just put a touchscreen monitor in the D-DIN to keep it looking clean and hide the DVD player somewhere else what do you think
I think you should go with a fixed screen double din unit that has DVD built into it... I really like the features of the alpine W200, plus it can interface with the Ipod and the alpine H701 which are huge pluses for me. Just my opinion.
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[QUOTE=ricky cash;129162]the amps would be along the back of the gas tank wall.
and the HU is a replacement however i was trying not to remove the OG HU for the aftermarket, prolly was gonna hide the dvd player, but i just might remove my OG and just put a touchscreen monitor in the D-DIN to keep it looking clean and hide the DVD player somewhere else what do you think[/QUOTE]
I think you should go with a fixed screen double din unit that has DVD built into it... I really like the features of the alpine W200, plus it can interface with the Ipod and the alpine H701 which are huge pluses for me. Just my opinion.
Pseudonym;130778 wrote:judging by the list of equipment youll be using, id be willing to bet u spend some time on car audio forums. u should get ahold of that eD nine.5 theyre phasing out and have on sale for $350. use that and a small amp for your tweets and youre saving space all over the place. or a few pdx's. either way...
How did you know=) ... I think i've seen you posting over at DIYMA :biggthumpup:
I actually have all of the needed equipment for my install, I just am too busy doing installs for other people to get mine done. Eventually I'll get it in there and it will be nice.
Pseudonym;130778 wrote:
and btw, space saving? how has nobody mentioned an infinite baffle setup? brace the shit out of your rear deck, mount subs to it (proper IB subs of course) slap a moderate amount of power to them and be prepared to be blown away.
IB is fantastic if your into SQ, the bass heads won't be too impressed though, theres not that huge hump in the 60hz region. Its also very dificult to pull off in some of the VIP cars since the gas tank is under the rear deck... in my Y33 the gas tank is centered under the rear deck... I will be doing my IB install but only have about 8" of depth on each side of the gas tank above the strut towers. Its going to be a super tight fit and I'll have to completely rebuild the rear deck... hopefully its worth it.
but for a normal person your right... if your looking for space savings and don't need to be heard down the block then IB might be the way to go, just don't be expecting to put a pair of 13W7's in your stock rear deck... a couple of solid 8"ers though and you should have a healthy substage to keep up with a mild front stage.
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[QUOTE=Pseudonym;130778]judging by the list of equipment youll be using, id be willing to bet u spend some time on car audio forums. u should get ahold of that eD nine.5 theyre phasing out and have on sale for $350. use that and a small amp for your tweets and youre saving space all over the place. or a few pdx's. either way...[/QUOTE]
How did you know=) ... I think i've seen you posting over at DIYMA :biggthumpup:
I actually have all of the needed equipment for my install, I just am too busy doing installs for other people to get mine done. Eventually I'll get it in there and it will be nice.
[QUOTE=Pseudonym;130778]
and btw, space saving? how has nobody mentioned an infinite baffle setup? brace the shit out of your rear deck, mount subs to it (proper IB subs of course) slap a moderate amount of power to them and be prepared to be blown away.[/QUOTE]
IB is fantastic if your into SQ, the bass heads won't be too impressed though, theres not that huge hump in the 60hz region. Its also very dificult to pull off in some of the VIP cars since the gas tank is under the rear deck... in my Y33 the gas tank is centered under the rear deck... I will be doing my IB install but only have about 8" of depth on each side of the gas tank above the strut towers. Its going to be a super tight fit and I'll have to completely rebuild the rear deck... hopefully its worth it.
but for a normal person your right... if your looking for space savings and don't need to be heard down the block then IB might be the way to go, just don't be expecting to put a pair of 13W7's in your stock rear deck... a couple of solid 8"ers though and you should have a healthy substage to keep up with a mild front stage.
i dont know how different IB in the car vs. the home is but the setup ive got in the house will blow your toupe off. granted its 4 15's each seeing 350 watts IB but i can only imagine what 2 12's, 3 10's, or 1 or 2 15's either on the rear deck or off a baffle behind folding seats would sound like in such tight quarters as a car. sure u dont get a bump in any specific freq, but u get a loud and flat response. again, its in my house, but goddamn, its enough to hurt somebody in certain scenes of a movie.
and yup, thats me on diyma. that place really seems like its going the way eca went a few years ago. damn shame.
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i dont know how different IB in the car vs. the home is but the setup ive got in the house will blow your toupe off. granted its 4 15's each seeing 350 watts IB but i can only imagine what 2 12's, 3 10's, or 1 or 2 15's either on the rear deck or off a baffle behind folding seats would sound like in such tight quarters as a car. sure u dont get a bump in any specific freq, but u get a loud and flat response. again, its in my house, but goddamn, its enough to hurt somebody in certain scenes of a movie.
and yup, thats me on diyma. that place really seems like its going the way eca went a few years ago. damn shame.
Designed for BigHitBiker3 for His Y33....
1.98 Cubic Foot sealed enclosure for a pair of 12" TC-1000's.
That brace in the middle is just to keep the front face from flexing under the pressure, the size of those holes doesn't matter as its just a brace, just try to cut a bunch of material out of it so its not impeding too much air flow but maintains its structural integrity.
Also, BigHit, I didn't actually measure the trunk for width and height numbers, I just guessed so you may want to double check that's going to work before building it.
Outer Dimensions = W:30" H:16" D:10"
Cut List...
Front & Back = 30"x16"
Top & Bottom = 28.5"x8.5"
Left & Right = 16"x8.5"
Brace = 14.5"x8.5"
Have fun and post pics when its done.
edit:
forgot to mention, this box with those drivers results in a Qtc of .68, Qtc of .707 is 1.82 Cubes, so this is just a smidgen bigger, response wise its almost negligible.
Also, double check the subs cutout diameter, I just guessed at 11.5", it could be 11 5/8" or something.
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Designed for BigHitBiker3 for His Y33....
1.98 Cubic Foot sealed enclosure for a pair of 12" TC-1000's.
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/198Sealed212s.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/198Sealed212s_dim1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b369/BrokenBC/Temp/198Sealed212s_dim2.jpg[/IMG]
That brace in the middle is just to keep the front face from flexing under the pressure, the size of those holes doesn't matter as its just a brace, just try to cut a bunch of material out of it so its not impeding too much air flow but maintains its structural integrity.
Also, BigHit, I didn't actually measure the trunk for width and height numbers, I just guessed so you may want to double check that's going to work before building it.
Outer Dimensions = W:30" H:16" D:10"
Cut List...
Front & Back = 30"x16"
Top & Bottom = 28.5"x8.5"
Left & Right = 16"x8.5"
Brace = 14.5"x8.5"
Have fun and post pics when its done.
edit:
forgot to mention, this box with those drivers results in a Qtc of .68, Qtc of .707 is 1.82 Cubes, so this is just a smidgen bigger, response wise its almost negligible.
Also, double check the subs cutout diameter, I just guessed at 11.5", it could be 11 5/8" or something.
Thanks a ton man! Does it matter what size MDF I use? Do you have a suggestion?
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Thanks a ton man! Does it matter what size MDF I use? Do you have a suggestion?
bighitbiker3;132191 wrote:Thanks a ton man! Does it matter what size MDF I use? Do you have a suggestion?
Yes, it does matter, I designed it using 3/4" MDF
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[QUOTE=bighitbiker3;132191]Thanks a ton man! Does it matter what size MDF I use? Do you have a suggestion?[/QUOTE]
Yes, it does matter, I designed it using 3/4" MDF
thanks a ton for your help man, but did you get the sizing for the jl 13.5 single sub. slanted box measurements that i had asked for
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thanks a ton for your help man, but did you get the sizing for the jl 13.5 single sub. slanted box measurements that i had asked for
ricky cash;132207 wrote:thanks a ton for your help man, but did you get the sizing for the jl 13.5 single sub. slanted box measurements that i had asked for
woops, I told you that you should fiberglass it, then I forgot about it... I'll try to take some measurements of my trunk tomorrow and see what I can do about an MDF box, I still say a fiberglass box will be the best way to do what you want though.
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[QUOTE=ricky cash;132207]thanks a ton for your help man, but did you get the sizing for the jl 13.5 single sub. slanted box measurements that i had asked for[/QUOTE]
woops, I told you that you should fiberglass it, then I forgot about it... I'll try to take some measurements of my trunk tomorrow and see what I can do about an MDF box, I still say a fiberglass box will be the best way to do what you want though.
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cool man, any advice on dicreetly mounting 2 10's in a sealed enclosure in the trunk? and just like everyone else i wanna keep as much trunk space as possible. any info would be greatly appreciated:biggthumpup:
(92 LS400)
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cool man, any advice on dicreetly mounting 2 10's in a sealed enclosure in the trunk? and just like everyone else i wanna keep as much trunk space as possible. any info would be greatly appreciated:biggthumpup:
(92 LS400)
RotaryAE86;143344 wrote:cool man, any advice on dicreetly mounting 2 10's in a sealed enclosure in the trunk? and just like everyone else i wanna keep as much trunk space as possible. any info would be greatly appreciated:biggthumpup:
(92 LS400)
For trying to minimize space taken I recomend 1 of 3 things...
1) remove spare tire and do a fake floor install
2) Infinite baffle in the rear deck
3) Fiberglass box in the sides of the box
One of my favorite installers is Bing who runs a shop in San Jose called Simplicity in Sound. His installs are quite often stealthy and leave a ton of trunk space but they still look amazing. I get alot of my ideas from him. Check out his web site for ideas, or even call him and see if you can afford him to install your stuff.
http://simplicity.elitecaraudio.org/View original BBCode
[QUOTE=RotaryAE86;143344]cool man, any advice on dicreetly mounting 2 10's in a sealed enclosure in the trunk? and just like everyone else i wanna keep as much trunk space as possible. any info would be greatly appreciated:biggthumpup:
(92 LS400)[/QUOTE]
For trying to minimize space taken I recomend 1 of 3 things...
1) remove spare tire and do a fake floor install
2) Infinite baffle in the rear deck
3) Fiberglass box in the sides of the box
One of my favorite installers is Bing who runs a shop in San Jose called Simplicity in Sound. His installs are quite often stealthy and leave a ton of trunk space but they still look amazing. I get alot of my ideas from him. Check out his web site for ideas, or even call him and see if you can afford him to install your stuff.
[url]http://simplicity.elitecaraudio.org/[/url]
12" single subwoofer enclouser
I am planning to buy a 12" sub woofer and make an encloser for my home theater so to get a deep bass. Which all brand should I consider (in terms of quality) and I need a proper measurement for the box. I am new to this, Please advise.
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[B]I am planning to buy a 12" sub woofer and make an encloser for my home theater so to get a deep bass. Which all brand should I consider (in terms of quality) and I need a proper measurement for the box. I am new to this, Please advise.[/B]
Last post from OP was 3/31/08...
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Last post from OP was 3/31/08...
