Thread #9154

converted from S14 to Y33 (Seattle)

24 archived posts · 1,953 historical views

redZENKIFebruary 9, 2008
#126281

converted from S14 to Y33 (Seattle)

Since this is where we're supposed to start, i guess it's about time to introduce myself. I've been lurking around here for a while waiting to see what platform to start out with. I just got a 98 Q45t and am in the process of selling my S14. I'm still new to all of this so I'm just looking around for ideas to start out with. I do have one question though. Would these rims fit my Q without any massive pulling/rolling and/or massive camber? It's not lowered yet, but I wanna know if i'm gonna have some fitment issues when i get lower.

Amistads
19x10 -11
19x11 -20
View original BBCode
Since this is where we're supposed to start, i guess it's about time to introduce myself. I've been lurking around here for a while waiting to see what platform to start out with. I just got a 98 Q45t and am in the process of selling my S14. I'm still new to all of this so I'm just looking around for ideas to start out with. I do have one question though. Would these rims fit my Q without any massive pulling/rolling and/or massive camber? It's not lowered yet, but I wanna know if i'm gonna have some fitment issues when i get lower. 

Amistads
19x10 -11
19x11 -20
BlitzFebruary 9, 2008
#126286
nice rim specs...those will definitely need roll and pull but I'm not sure if will be massive. I think you will need some cambering to help make them fit. good luck!
View original BBCode
nice rim specs...those will definitely need roll and pull but I'm not sure if will be massive.  I think you will need some cambering to help make them fit.  good luck!
redZENKIFebruary 9, 2008
#126287
yeah, i figured some camber would have to be done. i guess i should have saved those S14 RUCA's huh? :pat:
View original BBCode
yeah, i figured some camber would have to be done. i guess i should have saved those S14 RUCA's huh? :pat:
PANCAKES!February 9, 2008
#126289
minor pull in the rear and maybe front! +/max camber and u will be fine!
View original BBCode
minor pull in the rear and maybe front! +/max camber and u will be fine!
redZENKIFebruary 9, 2008
#126292
Ok, sounds like it won't be too bad. I just didn't want too much camber. I want to be able to drive my car with these on.
View original BBCode
Ok, sounds like it won't be too bad. I just didn't want too much camber. I want to be able to drive my car with these on.
redZENKIFebruary 9, 2008
#126293
This was my S14. It was my 3rd S-chassis. I had two S13's before.
Forum image

JDM kouki front end conversion:
Forum image

Paint was in the works and rims were gonna be mounted shortly after, but then I came across the Q and dropped all my plans for the S14. I sure will miss the track though.
View original BBCode
This was my S14. It was my 3rd S-chassis. I had two S13's before.
[IMG]http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/vincentouk/S-Chassis/S14/100_1209.jpg[/IMG]

JDM kouki front end conversion:
[IMG]http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/vincentouk/S-Chassis/S14/img039.jpg[/IMG]

Paint was in the works and rims were gonna be mounted shortly after, but then I came across the Q and dropped all my plans for the S14. I sure will miss the track though.
DaygoVIP619February 9, 2008
#126294
did you buy pagong's old rims because he ran some amistads around those same specs. i remembered the poke was about 2-3 inches front and rears so you gotta do a good pull in the rears and camber both front and rear a lot. or if you don't want too much camber you gotta spend a grip on body work to match the fenders
View original BBCode
did you buy pagong's old rims because he ran some amistads around those same specs. i remembered the poke was about 2-3 inches front and rears so you gotta do a good pull in the rears and camber both front and rear a lot. or if you don't want too much camber you gotta spend a grip on body work to match the fenders
redZENKIFebruary 9, 2008
#126295
I didn't buy these rims, but they might be for sale depending on if the seller wants to part it out from his car. If he does end up selling, i'll probably test fit em before i buy them. I initially had plans for wheels with almost the same specs, but maybe only +5 offset.

Daygo, what's your specs?
View original BBCode
I didn't buy these rims, but they might be for sale depending on if the seller wants to part it out from his car. If he does end up selling, i'll probably test fit em before i buy them. I initially had plans for wheels with almost the same specs, but maybe only +5 offset.

Daygo, what's your specs?
ALEXTHESUS*PECTFebruary 9, 2008
#126324
you should get the wheels and make them fit. these specs would require some work on the 14 too. lets see some pics of the wheels!
View original BBCode
you should get the wheels and make them fit. these specs would require some work on the 14 too. lets see some pics of the wheels!
BenjiFebruary 9, 2008
#126342
DaygoVIP619;126294 wrote:did you buy pagong's old rims because he ran some amistads around those same specs. i remembered the poke was about 2-3 inches front and rears so you gotta do a good pull in the rears and camber both front and rear a lot. or if you don't want too much camber you gotta spend a grip on body work to match the fenders
Yup, I agree. Lots of camber and fender pulling needed to fit those specs.
View original BBCode
[QUOTE=DaygoVIP619;126294]did you buy pagong's old rims because he ran some amistads around those same specs. i remembered the poke was about 2-3 inches front and rears so you gotta do a good pull in the rears and camber both front and rear a lot. or if you don't want too much camber you gotta spend a grip on body work to match the fenders[/QUOTE]Yup, I agree. Lots of camber and fender pulling needed to fit those specs.
zion_97February 9, 2008
#126347
bro you will need a good amount of a pull in the rear and massive camber..I have a 10.5 -8 and I had to pull roll and max out my camber...

Heres the thing..if you want to burn through tires like every month and minimul pull then you will have to get some after market camber kit and make the hell out of it..I am talking in the -10 range...and believe me if you daily drive you will be switching tires like crazy...unless your on air and you roll 4x4....

IF you are not on air and will be on springs or coilovers and dont want to burn through tires like crazy then you will need some big time fender work cuz with a 11 -20 that is some crzy offsets..nice width but hella crazy offsets..

heres a picture of mine..rears are 10.5 -8 and they still rubb a little....
Forum image
Forum image

as you can see my tire is half way off the road...starting from about center point. Its hard to see in this picture so I illustrated it for you. The horizontal red line is the ground, the small vertical red lines represent where the tire is not contacting the road. The long vertical line represents a 90* angle and the blue lines represent my wheels camber...

I go through tires if I drive it frequently about 2-4 months if I catch it on the flip...
View original BBCode
bro you will need a good amount of a pull in the rear and massive camber..I have a 10.5 -8 and I had to pull roll and max out my camber...
 
Heres the thing..if you want to burn through tires like every month and minimul pull then you will have to get some after market camber kit and make the hell out of it..I am talking in the -10 range...and believe me if you daily drive you will be switching tires like crazy...unless your on air and you roll 4x4....
 
IF you are not on air and will be on springs or coilovers and dont want to burn through tires like crazy then you will need some big time fender work cuz with a 11 -20 that is some crzy offsets..nice width but hella crazy offsets..
 
heres a picture of mine..rears are 10.5 -8 and they still rubb a little....
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j298/q45t07/5-4.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j298/q45t07/rearcamber-1.jpg[/IMG]
 
as you can see my tire is half way off the road...starting from about center point. Its hard to see in this picture so I illustrated it for you. The horizontal red line is the ground, the small vertical red lines represent where the tire is not contacting the road. The long vertical line represents a 90* angle and the blue lines represent my wheels camber...
 
I go through tires if I drive it frequently about 2-4 months if I catch it on the flip...
forpinksFebruary 9, 2008
#126349
How much are you selling the S14? And I wish you make the Q awesome to the bone!

You're from Seattle right, do you happen to like Grunge music? xD
View original BBCode
How much are you selling the S14? And I wish you make the Q awesome to the bone!

You're from Seattle right, do you happen to like Grunge music? xD
redZENKIFebruary 9, 2008
#126351
Wow, I like your stance zion. I'm trying to achieve a stance similar to that, but not as cambered. Maybe more of the stance like your front wheels, but all around.

When i first heard 19x11 -20, I thought "wtf, that's too much offset," but the first couple of people I spoke with said that I would be okay as long as I rolled and pulled my fenders a little bit.

So from what I'm now seeing, maybe 19x10.5 +15 (about?) in the rears is what I might be aiming for. I want some camber, but not so much that i'll be running through tires every 6 months or less. I'll eventually be running coilovers or springs. What's typical size and offset of 19's that people run on Y33's? That is, with minimal or no pull.

Here's the link to the wheels: http://www.northwestnissans.com/board/showthread.php?t=68939
View original BBCode
Wow, I like your stance zion. I'm trying to achieve a stance similar to that, but not as cambered. Maybe more of the stance like your front wheels, but all around.

When i first heard 19x11 -20, I thought "wtf, that's too much offset," but the first couple of people I spoke with said that I would be okay as long as I rolled and pulled my fenders a little bit. 

So from what I'm now seeing, maybe 19x10.5 +15 (about?) in the rears is what I might be aiming for. I want some camber, but not so much that i'll be running through tires every 6 months or less. I'll eventually be running coilovers or springs. What's typical size and offset of 19's that people run on Y33's? That is, with minimal or no pull.

Here's the link to the wheels: [url]http://www.northwestnissans.com/board/showthread.php?t=68939[/url]
redZENKIFebruary 9, 2008
#126352
I'm selling the S14 tomorrow bone stock for $4500. 116K, 5-speed, 5lug.

Sorry forpinks, not into grunge :shrug: I grew up in the ghetto, lol.

Thanks everyone for the responses. It's helping me really narrow down my wheels choices.

Here's an example of how I want my stance, but probably more wider in the front.

Forum image
View original BBCode
I'm selling the S14 tomorrow bone stock for $4500. 116K, 5-speed, 5lug. 

Sorry forpinks, not into grunge :shrug: I grew up in the ghetto, lol.

Thanks everyone for the responses. It's helping me really narrow down my wheels choices.

Here's an example of how I want my stance, but probably more wider in the front.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/rideordie619/p6k.jpg[/IMG]
BenjiFebruary 9, 2008
#126435
redZENKI;126351 wrote:When i first heard 19x11 -20, I thought "wtf, that's too much offset," but the first couple of people I spoke with said that I would be okay as long as I rolled and pulled my fenders a little bit.

So from what I'm now seeing, maybe 19x10.5 +15 (about?) in the rears is what I might be aiming for. I want some camber, but not so much that i'll be running through tires every 6 months or less. I'll eventually be running coilovers or springs. What's typical size and offset of 19's that people run on Y33's? That is, with minimal or no pull.
Once you go past 19x10.5 +0 in the rear, added negative camber over normal stock camber is a must unless you pull the fender. A 19x10.5 +0 has been proven to fit the Y33 Q45 in the rear without a pull, just a fender roll and natural camber added from lowering the car on stock rear upper camber arms which is about -3 degrees.

Use this offset calculator as your guide being 10.5 +0 as your reference to not need to add more camber or pull fenders in the rear. 9.5 +0 for the front.
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
View original BBCode
[quote=redZENKI;126351]When i first heard 19x11 -20, I thought "wtf, that's too much offset," but the first couple of people I spoke with said that I would be okay as long as I rolled and pulled my fenders a little bit. 
 
So from what I'm now seeing, maybe 19x10.5 +15 (about?) in the rears is what I might be aiming for. I want some camber, but not so much that i'll be running through tires every 6 months or less. I'll eventually be running coilovers or springs. What's typical size and offset of 19's that people run on Y33's? That is, with minimal or no pull.[/quote]Once you go past 19x10.5 +0 in the rear, added negative camber over normal stock camber is a must unless you pull the fender. A 19x10.5 +0 has been proven to fit the Y33 Q45 in the rear without a pull, just a fender roll and natural camber added from lowering the car on stock rear upper camber arms which is about -3 degrees. 
 
Use this offset calculator as your guide being 10.5 +0 as your reference to not need to add more camber or pull fenders in the rear. 9.5 +0 for the front.
[URL]http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp[/URL]
DaygoVIP619February 9, 2008
#126445
redZENKI;126295 wrote:I didn't buy these rims, but they might be for sale depending on if the seller wants to part it out from his car. If he does end up selling, i'll probably test fit em before i buy them. I initially had plans for wheels with almost the same specs, but maybe only +5 offset.

Daygo, what's your specs?


im running 10F +8 and 11R +9.. for the fronts i mounted a 235/35 for clearance and they fit perfect but at sharp turns while driving low i get some rubbing from my inner fender liners. for the rears i used 245/35 and the natural camber the UAS gave me, fits perfect! all i had to do was cut my inner tabs on my rear fenders.. the edge of the fender sits perfectly on top of the outer rim. anything more agressive than what i mentioned you have to start getting some S14 RUCA's for more camber and a pull on the quarters panels. any wheel can fit just how much are you willing to spend to make them fit? those are some sick wheels btw. good luck! :biggthumpup:
View original BBCode
[QUOTE=redZENKI;126295]I didn't buy these rims, but they might be for sale depending on if the seller wants to part it out from his car. If he does end up selling, i'll probably test fit em before i buy them. I initially had plans for wheels with almost the same specs, but maybe only +5 offset.

Daygo, what's your specs?[/QUOTE]

im running 10F +8 and 11R +9.. for the fronts i mounted a 235/35 for clearance and they fit perfect but at sharp turns while driving low i get some rubbing from my inner fender liners. for the rears i used 245/35 and the natural camber the UAS gave me, fits perfect! all i had to do was cut my inner tabs on my rear fenders.. the edge of the fender sits perfectly on top of the outer rim. anything more agressive than what i mentioned you have to start getting some S14 RUCA's for more camber and a pull on the quarters panels. any wheel can fit just how much are you willing to spend to make them fit? those are some sick wheels btw. good luck! :biggthumpup:
driftvipFebruary 9, 2008
#126459
man i wanna see those wheels fit. sounds like a great offset for that car
View original BBCode
man i wanna see those wheels fit. sounds like a great offset for that car
driftvipFebruary 9, 2008
#126461

Forum image


this car is pretty awsome! what kit is that?
View original BBCode
[quote]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/rideordie619/p6k.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
 
this car is pretty awsome! what kit is that?
PANCAKES!February 9, 2008
#126480
:dance: Aimgain!!!!!!!! :dance: modified
Forum image
View original BBCode
:dance: Aimgain!!!!!!!! :dance:  modified
[IMG]http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w308/o2bbabe/100_2416.jpg[/IMG]
TransformCelsiorFebruary 9, 2008
#126495
benji and zion are right on! well spoken from y33 owners who know what they are talking about.

11j -20 will require more than a slight fender roll and max camber.





zion_97;126347 wrote:bro you will need a good amount of a pull in the rear and massive camber..I have a 10.5 -8 and I had to pull roll and max out my camber...

Heres the thing..if you want to burn through tires like every month and minimul pull then you will have to get some after market camber kit and make the hell out of it..I am talking in the -10 range...and believe me if you daily drive you will be switching tires like crazy...unless your on air and you roll 4x4....

IF you are not on air and will be on springs or coilovers and dont want to burn through tires like crazy then you will need some big time fender work cuz with a 11 -20 that is some crzy offsets..nice width but hella crazy offsets..

heres a picture of mine..rears are 10.5 -8 and they still rubb a little....
Forum image
Forum image

as you can see my tire is half way off the road...starting from about center point. Its hard to see in this picture so I illustrated it for you. The horizontal red line is the ground, the small vertical red lines represent where the tire is not contacting the road. The long vertical line represents a 90* angle and the blue lines represent my wheels camber...

I go through tires if I drive it frequently about 2-4 months if I catch it on the flip...


Benji;126435 wrote:Once you go past 19x10.5 +0 in the rear, added negative camber over normal stock camber is a must unless you pull the fender. A 19x10.5 +0 has been proven to fit the Y33 Q45 in the rear without a pull, just a fender roll and natural camber added from lowering the car on stock rear upper camber arms which is about -3 degrees.

Use this offset calculator as your guide being 10.5 +0 as your reference to not need to add more camber or pull fenders in the rear. 9.5 +0 for the front.
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
View original BBCode
benji and zion are right on! well spoken from y33 owners who know what they are talking about. 

11j -20 will require more than a slight fender roll and max camber.





[quote=zion_97;126347]bro you will need a good amount of a pull in the rear and massive camber..I have a 10.5 -8 and I had to pull roll and max out my camber...
 
Heres the thing..if you want to burn through tires like every month and minimul pull then you will have to get some after market camber kit and make the hell out of it..I am talking in the -10 range...and believe me if you daily drive you will be switching tires like crazy...unless your on air and you roll 4x4....
 
IF you are not on air and will be on springs or coilovers and dont want to burn through tires like crazy then you will need some big time fender work cuz with a 11 -20 that is some crzy offsets..nice width but hella crazy offsets..
 
heres a picture of mine..rears are 10.5 -8 and they still rubb a little....
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j298/q45t07/5-4.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j298/q45t07/rearcamber-1.jpg[/IMG]
 
as you can see my tire is half way off the road...starting from about center point. Its hard to see in this picture so I illustrated it for you. The horizontal red line is the ground, the small vertical red lines represent where the tire is not contacting the road. The long vertical line represents a 90* angle and the blue lines represent my wheels camber...
 
I go through tires if I drive it frequently about 2-4 months if I catch it on the flip...[/quote]

[quote=Benji;126435]Once you go past 19x10.5 +0 in the rear, added negative camber over normal stock camber is a must unless you pull the fender. A 19x10.5 +0 has been proven to fit the Y33 Q45 in the rear without a pull, just a fender roll and natural camber added from lowering the car on stock rear upper camber arms which is about -3 degrees. 
 
Use this offset calculator as your guide being 10.5 +0 as your reference to not need to add more camber or pull fenders in the rear. 9.5 +0 for the front.
[URL]http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp[/URL][/quote]
redZENKIFebruary 10, 2008
#126699
Benji;126435 wrote:Once you go past 19x10.5 +0 in the rear, added negative camber over normal stock camber is a must unless you pull the fender. A 19x10.5 +0 has been proven to fit the Y33 Q45 in the rear without a pull, just a fender roll and natural camber added from lowering the car on stock rear upper camber arms which is about -3 degrees.

Use this offset calculator as your guide being 10.5 +0 as your reference to not need to add more camber or pull fenders in the rear. 9.5 +0 for the front.
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp


DaygoVIP619;126445 wrote:im running 10F +8 and 11R +9.. for the fronts i mounted a 235/35 for clearance and they fit perfect but at sharp turns while driving low i get some rubbing from my inner fender liners. for the rears i used 245/35 and the natural camber the UAS gave me, fits perfect! all i had to do was cut my inner tabs on my rear fenders.. the edge of the fender sits perfectly on top of the outer rim. anything more agressive than what i mentioned you have to start getting some S14 RUCA's for more camber and a pull on the quarters panels. any wheel can fit just how much are you willing to spend to make them fit? those are some sick wheels btw. good luck! :biggthumpup:



Thanks guys. That's exactly what I was looking for. I guess I'll be looking around for some other wheels. =)
View original BBCode
[QUOTE=Benji;126435]Once you go past 19x10.5 +0 in the rear, added negative camber over normal stock camber is a must unless you pull the fender. A 19x10.5 +0 has been proven to fit the Y33 Q45 in the rear without a pull, just a fender roll and natural camber added from lowering the car on stock rear upper camber arms which is about -3 degrees. 
 
Use this offset calculator as your guide being 10.5 +0 as your reference to not need to add more camber or pull fenders in the rear. 9.5 +0 for the front.
[URL]http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp[/URL][/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=DaygoVIP619;126445]im running 10F +8 and 11R +9.. for the fronts i mounted a 235/35 for clearance and they fit perfect but at sharp turns while driving low i get some rubbing from my inner fender liners. for the rears i used 245/35 and the natural camber the UAS gave me, fits perfect! all i had to do was cut my inner tabs on my rear fenders.. the edge of the fender sits perfectly on top of the outer rim. anything more agressive than what i mentioned you have to start getting some S14 RUCA's for more camber and a pull on the quarters panels. any wheel can fit just how much are you willing to spend to make them fit? those are some sick wheels btw. good luck! :biggthumpup:[/QUOTE]


Thanks guys. That's exactly what I was looking for. I guess I'll be looking around for some other wheels. =)
00scottyFebruary 11, 2008
#126938
theres a gjetto in seattle, nice sizes btw, hopefully mine can fit the way i want too
View original BBCode
theres a gjetto in seattle, nice sizes btw, hopefully mine can fit the way i want too
redZENKIFebruary 12, 2008
#127078
There's more than one. haha. I'm sure there's a ghetto in every state.
View original BBCode
There's more than one. haha. I'm sure there's a ghetto in every state.
Yokotas13February 12, 2008
#127081
Ugh
those sizes are going to kill you
Im runnign a 10j-30 in the rear and a 9j -17 in the front
a pretty big pull in the front, with maxed out JIC camber plates in the front

rear has shortened traction rod that i did from dmax, and dmax toe arm, with dmax camber arm, with only one lock nut
A pretty decent pull in the rear too.
I am trying to switch to 10j-30 front and 12j -20 rear, but i am going to do alot of bodywork, and molding to do it.

its not easy at all.
View original BBCode
Ugh
those sizes are going to kill you
Im runnign a 10j-30 in the rear and a 9j -17 in the front
a pretty big pull in the front, with maxed out JIC camber plates in the front
 
rear has shortened traction rod that i did from dmax, and dmax toe arm, with dmax camber arm, with only one lock nut
A pretty decent pull in the rear too.
I am trying to switch to 10j-30 front and 12j -20 rear, but i am going to do alot of bodywork, and molding to do it.
 
its not easy at all.