Getting wheels first...now where do I go from here?
I hear alot of people just saying buy the rims first and worry about fitting them later. I'm getting the rims in a few weeks and once I do get them where do I go from there? Do I figure out what size tire to get? After I do get the tires on and mounted is that when I figure out how much roll and pull I'll need? Or do I put on the rim without tires and jack it up to see how much room I have?
Anyways here is where I'm at. I bought Yokotas13's rims and planning to put it on my F50. I had 19x10 +25 with 265/30ZR19 in the rear and the tires just barely touched the rear fender on bumps or hard left turns or if I just have too much weight in the trunk. Oddly the left side was fine. Now these new set I'm getting are 19x10 -6 and was wondering where I go from here.
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I hear alot of people just saying buy the rims first and worry about fitting them later. I'm getting the rims in a few weeks and once I do get them where do I go from there? Do I figure out what size tire to get? After I do get the tires on and mounted is that when I figure out how much roll and pull I'll need? Or do I put on the rim without tires and jack it up to see how much room I have?
Anyways here is where I'm at. I bought Yokotas13's rims and planning to put it on my F50. I had 19x10 +25 with 265/30ZR19 in the rear and the tires just barely touched the rear fender on bumps or hard left turns or if I just have too much weight in the trunk. Oddly the left side was fine. Now these new set I'm getting are 19x10 -6 and was wondering where I go from here.
First things first..What are you running for suspension????Stock hieght,coilovers,airsus or springs...I would say get some nice stretched tires if you are worring about rubbing. Also are you running any camber? this would be my steps..
Tires...smaller the better for clearance
Camber...how much do you need for clearance..also keep in mind the more camber the faster the
you will need tires. I happen to like lots of camber but not to the point where the face
is looking at the sun....then it looks broken....
Roll...should roll your fenders anyway.
Pull...may or may not need to pull depending on how low you are and how much room you have..
if you must pull .....take it someware so you dont destroy your fenders..unless you have
expierence.
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First things first..What are you running for suspension????Stock hieght,coilovers,airsus or springs...I would say get some nice stretched tires if you are worring about rubbing. Also are you running any camber? this would be my steps..
Tires...smaller the better for clearance
Camber...how much do you need for clearance..also keep in mind the more camber the faster the
you will need tires. I happen to like lots of camber but not to the point where the face
is looking at the sun....then it looks broken....
Roll...should roll your fenders anyway.
Pull...may or may not need to pull depending on how low you are and how much room you have..
if you must pull .....take it someware so you dont destroy your fenders..unless you have
expierence.
What suspension do you have? If it was me, i would:
Jack one corner of the car up.
Mark the current camber position on the camber pin and then turn it to max camber
Put one of the wheels on (without tyres, and only need to handtighten the bolts)
Then put a jack under the wheel (with a newspaper on the jack so it doesnt scratch the rim)
Then when you lift it up you will see how much more room you need.
If it looks like a decent pull is needed (more than 1/2 inch would be noticeable i think), then you WILL need skinny tyres. Because even if the fender clears the lip, you will end up with tyres hitting the inner fender
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What suspension do you have? If it was me, i would:
Jack one corner of the car up.
Mark the current camber position on the camber pin and then turn it to max camber
Put one of the wheels on (without tyres, and only need to handtighten the bolts)
Then put a jack under the wheel (with a newspaper on the jack so it doesnt scratch the rim)
Then when you lift it up you will see how much more room you need.
If it looks like a decent pull is needed (more than 1/2 inch would be noticeable i think), then you WILL need skinny tyres. Because even if the fender clears the lip, you will end up with tyres hitting the inner fender
right now just on some swift springs so my car is no where close to low. Eventually air in the near future.
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right now just on some swift springs so my car is no where close to low. Eventually air in the near future.
oh fuck, this is gonna be interesting
i didnt realize they were going on an F50 lolz
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oh fuck, this is gonna be interesting
i didnt realize they were going on an F50 lolz
yeah, it kinda depends on your suspension. but i would imagine that you should be able to camber a good majority of that in if you were aftermarket. but for now my guess is that youre going to have to 1.) stretch like crazy and try to camber as much, then roll and pull. or 2.)you can order your suspension, then throw everything on and see how much of a roll/pull will be needed. which i would imagine not much.
but again, i am not familiar with your chassis. others should be here for the rescue.
Goodluck
Charley
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yeah, it kinda depends on your suspension. but i would imagine that you should be able to camber a good majority of that in if you were aftermarket. but for now my guess is that youre going to have to 1.) stretch like crazy and try to camber as much, then roll and pull. or 2.)you can order your suspension, then throw everything on and see how much of a roll/pull will be needed. which i would imagine not much.
but again, i am not familiar with your chassis. others should be here for the rescue.
Goodluck
Charley
well WidebodyQ seems to be on even more aggressive rims with stretched tires...he obviously had to roll and pull but i don't know if he has done any camber work.
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well WidebodyQ seems to be on even more aggressive rims with stretched tires...he obviously had to roll and pull but i don't know if he has done any camber work.
do the math.....convert the mil to inches. right now u have +25 and convert to see how much farther youll be sticking out. its about 1/2 an inch for 10mil...so youll be about 2 inches farther out from where your wheel is now. then you have to check your camber adjustments. most cars camber adjsut from the bottom, unless you have upper camber plates. if it adjust only from the bottom, you have to remember, that even if you add camber, the top of the wheel doesnt move. only the bottom of the wheel will push out. Meaning you either gonna have to find upper camber adjustment, or fender pull. Judging from the fact that you rub on +25, your gonna be siting on a good piece of the tire for sure with the -6. I would say maybe like 1/2 an inch on the actual tread and poke about 1 1/2 inch..jsut a guesstamate..hope this helps...
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do the math.....convert the mil to inches. right now u have +25 and convert to see how much farther youll be sticking out. its about 1/2 an inch for 10mil...so youll be about 2 inches farther out from where your wheel is now. then you have to check your camber adjustments. most cars camber adjsut from the bottom, unless you have upper camber plates. if it adjust only from the bottom, you have to remember, that even if you add camber, the top of the wheel doesnt move. only the bottom of the wheel will push out. Meaning you either gonna have to find upper camber adjustment, or fender pull. Judging from the fact that you rub on +25, your gonna be siting on a good piece of the tire for sure with the -6. I would say maybe like 1/2 an inch on the actual tread and poke about 1 1/2 inch..jsut a guesstamate..hope this helps...
I couldnt get any - camber out of the stock suspension, I had to go with a custom air setup to get extra camber in the rear and in the front. I wasnt able to find aftermarket camber adjustments for this car. On the bright side, the fenders can be pulled. I dont think you would need more then 1/2 in the rear but messure everything first. I had close to a 2' pull in the rear and about 1.5 up front on my old setup along with camber and I am running an extreme stretch to make them work
I forgot how much camber I was running but compare my wheels to the car in front of it

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I couldnt get any - camber out of the stock suspension, I had to go with a custom air setup to get extra camber in the rear and in the front. I wasnt able to find aftermarket camber adjustments for this car. On the bright side, the fenders can be pulled. I dont think you would need more then 1/2 in the rear but messure everything first. I had close to a 2' pull in the rear and about 1.5 up front on my old setup along with camber and I am running an extreme stretch to make them work
I forgot how much camber I was running but compare my wheels to the car in front of it
[IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/aedprix/IMG_0045.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/aedprix/IMG_0012.jpg[/IMG]
chad1.5litertoaster;113019 wrote:13mm = 1/2
i think its closer to 12.7mm. lol. jk. 12-13mm = .5"
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[QUOTE=chad1.5litertoaster;113019]13mm = 1/2[/QUOTE]
i think its closer to 12.7mm. lol. jk. 12-13mm = .5"
The math presented above is incorrect; in an ideal world the 19x10", -6mm wheels will stick out about -31mm more than the 19x10", +25mm set (this part is basic arithmetic actually), which would convert to just a tad under 1.25", not 2". Also incorrect is the erroneous statement that adjusting camber by pushing a lca outwards, as opposed to pulling an uca inwards will not net any clearance gains. I present the following diagram:
This is a very crude, not-to-scale, dual wishbone setup, but the concept remains relevant, in that it shows the relative change in camber depending on whether the adjustments are made above or below axle centerline. The same principle applies to ALL forms of suspension, not just dual a-arms. In this hypothetical situation, the lca and uca are both moved by the same amount, netting a different amount of negative camber, but ultimately, additional tire clearance is achieved. Astute obervers will note that the location of the arms relative to the axle centerline/each other will play a large role in the amount of camber change per length adjustment. The camber degree amounts listed is just for reference and inconsequential... the main purpose of this diagram is to show that pushing the bottoms out does help (put this img together last week actually when I had an epiphany on a simple way to get camber adjusment for lexus guys...more to come there).
But, as for the F50 guys, does anyone have any good pics of the car's suspension, front and rear? I still believe the rear is similar enough to the regular FM platform's IRS that the control arms like those I made for the white 350Z (pics floating around somewhere here) can be used.
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The math presented above is incorrect; in an ideal world the 19x10", -6mm wheels will stick out about -31mm more than the 19x10", +25mm set (this part is basic arithmetic actually), which would convert to just a tad under 1.25", not 2". Also incorrect is the erroneous statement that adjusting camber by pushing a lca outwards, as opposed to pulling an uca inwards will not net any clearance gains. I present the following diagram:
[IMG]http://www.onetongarage.com/tech/camberdifferences.jpg[/IMG]
This is a very crude, not-to-scale, dual wishbone setup, but the concept remains relevant, in that it shows the relative change in camber depending on whether the adjustments are made above or below axle centerline. The same principle applies to ALL forms of suspension, not just dual a-arms. In this hypothetical situation, the lca and uca are both moved by the same amount, netting a different amount of negative camber, but ultimately, additional tire clearance is achieved. Astute obervers will note that the location of the arms relative to the axle centerline/each other will play a large role in the amount of camber change per length adjustment. The camber degree amounts listed is just for reference and inconsequential... the main purpose of this diagram is to show that pushing the bottoms out does help (put this img together last week actually when I had an epiphany on a simple way to get camber adjusment for lexus guys...more to come there).
But, as for the F50 guys, does anyone have any good pics of the car's suspension, front and rear? I still believe the rear is similar enough to the regular FM platform's IRS that the control arms like those I made for the white 350Z (pics floating around somewhere here) can be used.
One Ton VIP;113086 wrote:The math presented above is incorrect; in an ideal world the 19x10", -6mm wheels will stick out about -31mm more than the 19x10", +25mm set (this part is basic arithmetic actually), which would convert to just a tad under 1.25", not 2". Also incorrect is the erroneous statement that adjusting camber by pushing a lca outwards, as opposed to pulling an uca inwards will not net any clearance gains. I present the following diagram:

This is a very crude, not-to-scale, dual wishbone setup, but the concept remains relevant, in that it shows the relative change in camber depending on whether the adjustments are made above or below axle centerline. The same principle applies to ALL forms of suspension, not just dual a-arms. In this hypothetical situation, the lca and uca are both moved by the same amount, netting a different amount of negative camber, but ultimately, additional tire clearance is achieved. Astute obervers will note that the location of the arms relative to the axle centerline/each other will play a large role in the amount of camber change per length adjustment. The camber degree amounts listed is just for reference and inconsequential... the main purpose of this diagram is to show that pushing the bottoms out does help (put this img together last week actually when I had an epiphany on a simple way to get camber adjusment for lexus guys...more to come there).
But, as for the F50 guys, does anyone have any good pics of the car's suspension, front and rear? I still believe the rear is similar enough to the regular FM platform's IRS that the control arms like those I made for the white 350Z (pics floating around somewhere here) can be used.
Thanks for that diagram, i never thought of the differences of adjusted camber through the lca vs uca. Keep me updated on the adjustable multilink stuff for lexus cars. The few options I know of for us is Nagisa and Youzealand, which we all know isnt cheap.
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[quote=One Ton VIP;113086]The math presented above is incorrect; in an ideal world the 19x10", -6mm wheels will stick out about -31mm more than the 19x10", +25mm set (this part is basic arithmetic actually), which would convert to just a tad under 1.25", not 2". Also incorrect is the erroneous statement that adjusting camber by pushing a lca outwards, as opposed to pulling an uca inwards will not net any clearance gains. I present the following diagram:
[IMG]http://www.onetongarage.com/tech/camberdifferences.jpg[/IMG]
This is a very crude, not-to-scale, dual wishbone setup, but the concept remains relevant, in that it shows the relative change in camber depending on whether the adjustments are made above or below axle centerline. The same principle applies to ALL forms of suspension, not just dual a-arms. In this hypothetical situation, the lca and uca are both moved by the same amount, netting a different amount of negative camber, but ultimately, additional tire clearance is achieved. Astute obervers will note that the location of the arms relative to the axle centerline/each other will play a large role in the amount of camber change per length adjustment. The camber degree amounts listed is just for reference and inconsequential... the main purpose of this diagram is to show that pushing the bottoms out does help (put this img together last week actually when I had an epiphany on a simple way to get camber adjusment for lexus guys...more to come there).
But, as for the F50 guys, does anyone have any good pics of the car's suspension, front and rear? I still believe the rear is similar enough to the regular FM platform's IRS that the control arms like those I made for the white 350Z (pics floating around somewhere here) can be used.[/quote]
Thanks for that diagram, i never thought of the differences of adjusted camber through the lca vs uca. Keep me updated on the adjustable multilink stuff for lexus cars. The few options I know of for us is Nagisa and Youzealand, which we all know isnt cheap.
Van can probably make you a custom set. He did for our 350Z...... =)
btw, the good stuff isn't cheap.
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Van can probably make you a custom set. He did for our 350Z...... =)
btw, the good stuff isn't cheap.
One Ton VIP;113086 wrote:
But, as for the F50 guys, does anyone have any good pics of the car's suspension, front and rear? I still believe the rear is similar enough to the regular FM platform's IRS that the control arms like those I made for the white 350Z (pics floating around somewhere here) can be used.
I will ask the guys installing my bold world kit this week to take pictures if they can.
D.
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[QUOTE=One Ton VIP;113086]
But, as for the F50 guys, does anyone have any good pics of the car's suspension, front and rear? I still believe the rear is similar enough to the regular FM platform's IRS that the control arms like those I made for the white 350Z (pics floating around somewhere here) can be used.[/QUOTE]
I will ask the guys installing my bold world kit this week to take pictures if they can.
D.
One Ton VIP;113086 wrote:The math presented above is incorrect; in an ideal world the 19x10", -6mm wheels will stick out about -31mm more than the 19x10", +25mm set (this part is basic arithmetic actually), which would convert to just a tad under 1.25", not 2". Also incorrect is the erroneous statement that adjusting camber by pushing a lca outwards, as opposed to pulling an uca inwards will not net any clearance gains. I present the following diagram:

This is a very crude, not-to-scale, dual wishbone setup, but the concept remains relevant, in that it shows the relative change in camber depending on whether the adjustments are made above or below axle centerline. The same principle applies to ALL forms of suspension, not just dual a-arms. In this hypothetical situation, the lca and uca are both moved by the same amount, netting a different amount of negative camber, but ultimately, additional tire clearance is achieved. Astute obervers will note that the location of the arms relative to the axle centerline/each other will play a large role in the amount of camber change per length adjustment. The camber degree amounts listed is just for reference and inconsequential... the main purpose of this diagram is to show that pushing the bottoms out does help (put this img together last week actually when I had an epiphany on a simple way to get camber adjusment for lexus guys...more to come there).
But, as for the F50 guys, does anyone have any good pics of the car's suspension, front and rear? I still believe the rear is similar enough to the regular FM platform's IRS that the control arms like those I made for the white 350Z (pics floating around somewhere here) can be used.
I've done a suspension upgrade on a 350Z rear before and it's basically the same design as the F50. Not sure about lengths or measurements though. The shocks and springs are seperate from each other...the springs sit on the LCA.
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[QUOTE=One Ton VIP;113086]The math presented above is incorrect; in an ideal world the 19x10", -6mm wheels will stick out about -31mm more than the 19x10", +25mm set (this part is basic arithmetic actually), which would convert to just a tad under 1.25", not 2". Also incorrect is the erroneous statement that adjusting camber by pushing a lca outwards, as opposed to pulling an uca inwards will not net any clearance gains. I present the following diagram:
[IMG]http://www.onetongarage.com/tech/camberdifferences.jpg[/IMG]
This is a very crude, not-to-scale, dual wishbone setup, but the concept remains relevant, in that it shows the relative change in camber depending on whether the adjustments are made above or below axle centerline. The same principle applies to ALL forms of suspension, not just dual a-arms. In this hypothetical situation, the lca and uca are both moved by the same amount, netting a different amount of negative camber, but ultimately, additional tire clearance is achieved. Astute obervers will note that the location of the arms relative to the axle centerline/each other will play a large role in the amount of camber change per length adjustment. The camber degree amounts listed is just for reference and inconsequential... the main purpose of this diagram is to show that pushing the bottoms out does help (put this img together last week actually when I had an epiphany on a simple way to get camber adjusment for lexus guys...more to come there).
But, as for the F50 guys, does anyone have any good pics of the car's suspension, front and rear? I still believe the rear is similar enough to the regular FM platform's IRS that the control arms like those I made for the white 350Z (pics floating around somewhere here) can be used.[/QUOTE]
I've done a suspension upgrade on a 350Z rear before and it's basically the same design as the F50. Not sure about lengths or measurements though. The shocks and springs are seperate from each other...the springs sit on the LCA.
widebody, my goodness your Q looks amazing.
it fits right to the tee, damn hot.
widebody_Q;113021 wrote:I couldnt get any - camber out of the stock suspension, I had to go with a custom air setup to get extra camber in the rear and in the front. I wasnt able to find aftermarket camber adjustments for this car. On the bright side, the fenders can be pulled. I dont think you would need more then 1/2 in the rear but messure everything first. I had close to a 2' pull in the rear and about 1.5 up front on my old setup along with camber and I am running an extreme stretch to make them work
I forgot how much camber I was running but compare my wheels to the car in front of it


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widebody, my goodness your Q looks amazing.
it fits right to the tee, damn hot.
[quote=widebody_Q;113021]I couldnt get any - camber out of the stock suspension, I had to go with a custom air setup to get extra camber in the rear and in the front. I wasnt able to find aftermarket camber adjustments for this car. On the bright side, the fenders can be pulled. I dont think you would need more then 1/2 in the rear but messure everything first. I had close to a 2' pull in the rear and about 1.5 up front on my old setup along with camber and I am running an extreme stretch to make them work
I forgot how much camber I was running but compare my wheels to the car in front of it
[IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/aedprix/IMG_0045.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/aedprix/IMG_0012.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
Qclass;113136 wrote:widebody, my goodness your Q looks amazing.
it fits right to the tee, damn hot.
Thanks. Those are old pix though. I recently raised the rear fender archs and now I actually will tuck by 2mm when I get my suspension adjusted to sit lower. Im going to need to run a 3mm spacer but the rear fitment should be even better then in the pics above when im done.

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[quote=Qclass;113136]widebody, my goodness your Q looks amazing.
it fits right to the tee, damn hot.[/quote]
Thanks. Those are old pix though. I recently raised the rear fender archs and now I actually will tuck by 2mm when I get my suspension adjusted to sit lower. Im going to need to run a 3mm spacer but the rear fitment should be even better then in the pics above when im done.
[IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y170/aedprix/IMG_0330.jpg[/IMG]