Thread #16774

VSC, SCHOOL ME ON RADIUSED FENDERS.

14 archived posts · 1,479 historical views

adob0March 30, 2009
#239311

VSC, SCHOOL ME ON RADIUSED FENDERS.

aight yall...

from browsing the forums, i think i've figured out what shaved, rolled, pulled, flared fenders are and how to do them.

i've searched the forums: radiused fenders, radius fender, radius, fender, radii, diameter, circumference, axis of symmetry, pi 3.14 and all that...

but whats good with radiused fenders...how is this done?

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aight yall...

from browsing the forums, i think i've figured out what shaved, rolled, pulled, flared fenders are and how to do them.

i've searched the forums: radiused fenders, radius fender, radius, fender, radii, diameter, circumference, axis of symmetry, pi 3.14 and all that...

but whats good with radiused fenders...how is this done?

[IMG]http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y205/hoss1200/stupid%20pics/a5525f2ecb624b30a94c82edf8093039e82.gif[/IMG]
elpresidenteMarch 31, 2009
#239335
You're raising the wheel arch higher as to allow the suspension components to have full travel and ride as low as possible while not compromising your offset. In other words, you'll be slammed, rolling, but still flush, not tucked.

I radiused my rear fenders on the Jag about 1.5" to better equal the front arches so I could ride lower without having to run excessive camber just to clear the fenders.

For me it was a matter of cutting the stock arches and re-welding them higher and blending in the sides at the bottom of the arch through metal work (as well as pounding up the inner fender for added clearance, which was then sealed to the outer fender). This maintains a "stock" appearance to the fender (to those who wouldn't know better), but gives me the clearance I desire both on the inside for suspension travel at lowest ride height and clearance to the actual fender from the rim lips..
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You're raising the wheel arch higher as to allow the suspension components to have full travel and ride as low as possible while not compromising your offset.  In other words, you'll be slammed, rolling, but still flush, not tucked.

I radiused my rear fenders on the Jag about 1.5" to better equal the front arches so I could ride lower without having to run excessive camber just to clear the fenders.  

For me it was a matter of cutting the stock arches and re-welding them higher and blending in the sides at the bottom of the arch through metal work (as well as pounding up the inner fender for added clearance, which was then sealed to the outer fender).  This maintains a "stock" appearance to the fender (to those who wouldn't know better), but gives me the clearance I desire both on the inside for suspension travel at lowest ride height and clearance to the actual fender from the rim lips..
ant_jzs160March 31, 2009
#239340
^ pretty much nailed it all there. look closely at a lot of the low and flush japanese cars and esp the rear fenders are actually higher up the body than usual.

effectively allows you to bring the car down over the wheels but you move the arches so they dont cover or impede the wheels at all.
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^ pretty much nailed it all there. look closely at a lot of the low and flush japanese cars and esp the rear fenders are actually higher up the body than usual.
 
effectively allows you to bring the car down over the wheels but you move the arches so they dont cover or impede the wheels at all.
widebody_QMarch 31, 2009
#239342
THis is something you DONT want to do unless you are committed to drive slammed all the time because you will have more fender gap then you normally would. Even if you are actually lower then the car next to you, you will not appear to be if you look at the gap. Also, this is something that should not be left for a normal body shop. In some situations, the car could be touching the ground and will still have fender gap which defeats the purpose of doing it in the first place. Precise messuring is needed.

This should be your final step (if needed) because there is no comming back from it.
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THis is something you [B]DONT[/B] want to do unless you are committed to drive slammed all the time because you will have more fender gap then you normally would.  Even if you are actually lower then the car next to you, you will not appear to be if you look at the gap. Also, this is something that should not be left for a normal body shop. In some situations, the car could be touching the ground and will still have fender gap which defeats the purpose of doing it in the first place. Precise messuring is needed.
 
This should be your final step (if needed) because there is no comming back from it.
SikNLowMarch 31, 2009
#239343
^^^
truer words were never spoken.... and elpres pretty much summed it up quite nicely and efficiently!
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^^^
truer words were never spoken.... and elpres pretty much summed it up quite nicely and efficiently!
OGMarch 31, 2009
#239347
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[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc188/BLACKonBLACK98/Maxima/100_0335.jpg[/IMG]
 
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc188/BLACKonBLACK98/Maxima/100_0342.jpg[/IMG]
 
[IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc188/BLACKonBLACK98/Maxima/100_0344.jpg[/IMG]
PagongMarch 31, 2009
#239359
elpresidente;239335 wrote:. In other words, you'll be slammed, rolling, but still flush, not tucked.



This is how it should be.:biggthumpup:


seeing alot of "sunken battle ship look".
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[quote=elpresidente;239335]. In other words, you'll be slammed, rolling, but still flush, not tucked.
[/quote]
 
 
This is how it should be.:biggthumpup:
 
 
seeing alot of "sunken battle ship look".
CelestakMarch 31, 2009
#239365
^

Honestly the "Sunken battle ship look" seems to be vastly preferred over kissing the fender. (not gonna try to spell the Japanese word) LOL. Even in the VIP style / VIP car mags lately. I've been scratching my head on that for a minute. But regardless I've always preferred the lip kissing the fender. Even before I knew what VIP Style was.

Great info thanks Blk on Blk for the pics to illustrate and El Pres. for the explanation.
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^
 
Honestly the "Sunken battle ship look" seems to be vastly preferred over kissing the fender. (not gonna try to spell the Japanese word) LOL.  Even in the VIP style / VIP car mags lately.  I've been scratching my head on that for a minute.  But regardless I've always preferred the lip kissing the fender.  Even before I knew what VIP Style was.  
 
Great info thanks Blk on Blk for the pics to illustrate and El Pres. for the explanation.
blind_injusticeMarch 31, 2009
#239459
with this modification, how much does the wheel diameter have to do with being 'slammed' eg. would a 19" with 35 series tyres leave less room in the arch than a 20".. by 1" obviously? and will having a wheel that is 1" larger in diameter have any effect on the actual height of the car from the bottom of the sil? (groud clearance?) because im upgrading my 18X9.5+35's to 20X10.5 +5 rears. and this might have to be a mod i carry out. (hoping not)
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with this modification, how much does the wheel diameter have to do with being 'slammed' eg. would a 19" with 35 series tyres leave less room in the arch than a 20".. by 1" obviously? and will having a wheel that is 1" larger in diameter have any effect on the actual height of the car from the bottom of the sil? (groud clearance?) because im upgrading my 18X9.5+35's to 20X10.5 +5 rears. and this might have to be a mod i carry out. (hoping not)
widebody_QMarch 31, 2009
#239461
blind_injustice;239459 wrote:with this modification, how much does the wheel diameter have to do with being 'slammed' eg. would a 19" with 35 series tyres leave less room in the arch than a 20".. by 1" obviously? and will having a wheel that is 1" larger in diameter have any effect on the actual height of the car from the bottom of the sil? (groud clearance?) because im upgrading my 18X9.5+35's to 20X10.5 +5 rears. and this might have to be a mod i carry out. (hoping not)


You can run skinnier tires. Instead of a 35 series, run a 30 series. This will allow you to drive lower.

Most body kits hang lower then stock bumpers and side skirts. It's recomended to get your kit and wheels first before cutting.
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[quote=blind_injustice;239459]with this modification, how much does the wheel diameter have to do with being 'slammed' eg. would a 19" with 35 series tyres leave less room in the arch than a 20".. by 1" obviously? and will having a wheel that is 1" larger in diameter have any effect on the actual height of the car from the bottom of the sil? (groud clearance?) because im upgrading my 18X9.5+35's to 20X10.5 +5 rears. and this might have to be a mod i carry out. (hoping not)[/quote]
 
You can run skinnier tires.  Instead of a 35 series, run a 30 series.  This will allow you to drive lower.  
 
Most body kits hang lower then stock bumpers and side skirts.  It's recomended to get your kit and wheels first before cutting.
blind_injusticeMarch 31, 2009
#239464
yea, sorry, was reffering to lowest point on kit.
Thx for the info mate. Check my varianza thread and tell me what kinda work you think ill be up for?
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yea, sorry, was reffering to lowest point on kit. 
Thx for the info mate. Check my varianza thread and tell me what kinda work you think ill be up for?
widebody_QMarch 31, 2009
#239466
^ I put that out there for other readers as well who might have forgotten about aero.

As far as your car goes, it's off to a good start. I can't tell you exactly how much work you will need but I know you will need to atleast pull the rear fenders (guards) out.
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^ I put that out there for other readers as well who might have forgotten about aero.
 
As far as your car goes, it's off to a good start.  I can't tell you exactly how much work you will need but I know you will need to atleast pull the rear fenders (guards) out.
adob0April 1, 2009
#239729
ahh, i see clearly now.

thanks for the info and pics, much appreciated.:biggthumpup:
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ahh, i see clearly now.

thanks for the info and pics, much appreciated.:biggthumpup: