Air Ride Problem...Canovers...

i hear this noise in the front, it sounds like the sound when struts are blown
i also airred up the front while drivin and its losin pressure in the front, like say it would be at 120 then it drop down to 90 and it would just stay at 90/

i figured it was some kinda leak but wouldnt the leak cause it to go even further down? hopefully tahts not the case when i wake up in the morning. 

me and my cousin jumped up and down on the car and i kept hearing a pshhh sound so could the canovers seals be blown or whatever?

check the fitting. if its not the fitting leaking, its more likely going to be the seal.

will do sir, its also kinda wierd cause it goes down to 90 but never below it

Sounds like the seals but check all your fittings...

[QUOTE=Garage7RP;303945]Sounds like the seals but check all your fittings...[/QUOTE]

if its the seals wouldnt it drop to 0psi?

I'm not expert but usually fittings will leak all the way to zero...  seals however can still maintain some pressure depending on how bad it is.

[QUOTE=Blitz;303979]I'm not expert but usually fittings will leak all the way to zero...  seals however can still maintain some pressure depending on how bad it is.[/QUOTE]

yeah thats waht im guessing cuase leaving the car overnight, it stayed smae ride height, its only when i drive it that it starts gettin lower and lower

[QUOTE=Kohinoor;303873]check the fitting. if its not the fitting leaking, its more likely going to be the seal.[/QUOTE]

know of any places in tx that can reseal them? :sad:

unless the seal is seated aroun d90psi, and it has enough left to seal. i am not sure how the system works, but on aircraft i have seen the like. something will leak with more air, but less, it wont.

[QUOTE=Yokotas13;304104]unless the seal is seated aroun d90psi, and it has enough left to seal. i am not sure how the system works, but on aircraft i have seen the like. something will leak with more air, but less, it wont.[/QUOTE]

thats exactly what it sound slike its doing, i think its the seals around the shaft...

85psi my car is not possibl eright now cause i haven trolled my fenders or cut that plastic lining yet :pat:

sounds like you might have to send them to japan. :(

any1 know of a place in the US that can rebuild canovers?

Check your local hydraulic suspension place. I believe it is similar design.

[QUOTE=Garage7RP;305690]Check your local hydraulic suspension place. I believe it is similar design.[/QUOTE]

thanks for the suggestion, ill see if austin has any

shorty's hydraulics in houston wasnt able to take my canovers apart. kiyoshi's in cali (original canover dealer) couldnt really help me either. i hope you find someone local to you, otherwise theyll have to be sent to canover. dave@memoryfab made a post a couple years ago with their info.

[QUOTE=Kohinoor;306566]shorty's hydraulics in houston wasnt able to take my canovers apart. kiyoshi's in cali (original canover dealer) couldnt really help me either. i hope you find someone local to you, otherwise theyll have to be sent to canover. dave@memoryfab made a post a couple years ago with their info.[/QUOTE]

sounds like im SOL

overnight parts to japan? 

[img]http://homepage.usask.ca/~skf147/Ferrari%20and%20Supra%20Race.jpg[/img]

called couple hydraulic places, siad they dont do em...
my last one is one place in san antonio

i heard i could weld these shut?

lol what?

[QUOTE=Kohinoor;307886]lol what?[/QUOTE]

i talked to the person that has dins canovers and he said he sent it back like twice nad it took weeks so after that he found out other owners just wleded them shut and so did he :shrug:

i dunno.. good luck with that

tryna look into it lol

Ok first of all Canover is built in Washington state, sent to japan as they bought the rights.  Second they have a duel sealing one on the inner tube that comes out and another on the inner piston.  The problem you have is that you have rubbed a flatspot, or gouged the anodized coating in a particular spot.  It will loose pressure to that point from blowby then it will seal itself in the good area below it.

You should be able to pull them open and inspect the damage.  The only fix for the flat spots or the gouges it to replace ( recommended) the cylinder or have them welded and machined again, then re anodized to protect against the same problem.

Alternatively a competent machine shop should be able to turn one and have it hard coated to make a replacement part, probably cheeper than the shipping to japan.

Most likely the cause of this is debris in the system usually from installation.

Hope this helps.

[QUOTE=DXJP;307952]Ok first of all Canover is built in Washington state, sent to japan as they bought the rights.  Second they have a duel sealing one on the inner tube that comes out and another on the inner piston.  The problem you have is that you have rubbed a flatspot, or gouged the anodized coating in a particular spot.  It will loose pressure to that point from blowby then it will seal itself in the good area below it.

You should be able to pull them open and inspect the damage.  The only fix for the flat spots or the gouges it to replace ( recommended) the cylinder or have them welded and machined again, then re anodized to protect against the same problem.

Alternatively a competent machine shop should be able to turn one and have it hard coated to make a replacement part, probably cheeper than the shipping to japan.

Most likely the cause of this is debris in the system usually from installation.

Hope this helps.[/QUOTE]

wow this info is much helpful bro!

what do you mean by turn one and have it hardcoated...

also when i open and inspect for dmg what exactly am i looking for

thanks a ton!

You can have a machine shop turn out a new cylinder, they can get the specs off the old one and reverse engineer it to size match it.  Then it will need hard anodizing to make it scratch resistant and help sealing.

Your looking for vertical scratches and abrasions in the cylinder wall itself, there could also be a scaring or burnt area, that would be your flatspot.  the canover when extended gets week from the lateral stress.  You dont notice this on bags because they are rubber and can handle a lot of the lateral stress during static loads as well as dynamic loads(air runner type), these types with built in shocks still put wear on the shock rods just like a normal shock and spring setup so they too can fail but its the shock that fails from the lateral loads

[QUOTE=DXJP;307958]You can have a machine shop turn out a new cylinder, they can get the specs off the old one and reverse engineer it to size match it.  Then it will need hard anodizing to make it scratch resistant and help sealing.

Your looking for vertical scratches and abrasions in the cylinder wall itself, there could also be a scaring or burnt area, that would be your flatspot.  the canover when extended gets week from the lateral stress.  You dont notice this on bags because they are rubber and can handle a lot of the lateral stress during static loads as well as dynamic loads(air runner type), these types with built in shocks still put wear on the shock rods just like a normal shock and spring setup so they too can fail but its the shock that fails from the lateral loads[/QUOTE]

ahhh i seee...

can i still drive the car? all it does is rub the shit out of my fender liner, and i gotta air it up every 5 mins lol..

its my dialy and ive been missin class alot :pat::runcoold:

but ima look into what you jsut said...also i heard u can adjust the dampener? how do i do that

there is no dampener on a canover, it is a set of check valves that balance the air between the cylinder and them small tanks you should have. the air goes in but cant back out the same path its sent threw a different check and then out.  So what your doing is restricting the air movement on the compression side and free flowing on the rebound.

where your fitting goes into the cylinder in the top should be a nut looking thing with 1 to 5 i think wrote in it.  below that should be a dot so what ever number is over the dot is the amount of dampening sorta.  Like i said its just a choke on the air speed threw the cylinder and the sub tanks.

If you need to air it up every 5 mins then you need to take a hour and throw the stocks back on until you get your air set straight.

[QUOTE=DXJP;307973]If you need to air it up every 5 mins then you need to take a hour and throw the stocks back on until you get your air set straight.[/QUOTE]

wrd.

me and michael will do it for you for a bill. =)

thanks a ton dxjp!

haha timmy i was gonna do it today but i think i found someone local that can rebuild my canovers

still gotta put your stock suspension on.

[QUOTE=brainneeded;308059]still gotta put your stock suspension on.[/QUOTE]

naa cause im leavin the car at the shop...

also gotta get fenders rolled and pulled in the rear

sucks dude. good luck getting it fixed

[QUOTE=DXJP;307958]You can have a machine shop turn out a new cylinder, they can get the specs off the old one and reverse engineer it to size match it.  Then it will need hard anodizing to make it scratch resistant and help sealing.

Your looking for vertical scratches and abrasions in the cylinder wall itself, there could also be a scaring or burnt area, that would be your flatspot.  the canover when extended gets week from the lateral stress.  You dont notice this on bags because they are rubber and can handle a lot of the lateral stress during static loads as well as dynamic loads(air runner type), these types with built in shocks still put wear on the shock rods just like a normal shock and spring setup so they too can fail but its the shock that fails from the lateral loads[/QUOTE]

turning out a new is spose to be cheaper then sending it back to japan or buying new one?

ditching the canovers in the front and gonan custom a set up up front