Thread #24390
Hay guys, My F50 needs camber in the rear any help on what part(s) are out there to achieve about a -5 degree camber. Thanks for the help.
Edit: Fash00 here is running Z33 SPL camber arms in the rear with BC coilovers.
Thanks, looking into getting the Megans? Any luck with this on the F50??
You should be at least -4 just from the drop, and I know your lower than me?? My rears are right on -4 and so is the front. Get someone like The Shop to fab something for you!!
Thanks Kevin thinking I'm gunna pull a little bit on the fenders and also try to get about 2-3 neg degree camber, have a buddy that said he can fab up the control arms for me. :biggthumpup: Cant wait til its all done and sitting pretty!
I believe you have to go coilover in the rear...meaning literally coils on top of the shocks like regular coilovers. Have to ditch the stock sepeerate spring and shock setup... and then change the lower arm to that SPL one where it gets rid of that cup. The cup where the spring orignally sat. I think you are on UAS right? well you'll have to get coilover in the rear and put aero sport bags on it and get rid of the air house bags. BTW check your air house bags in the rear... when I took mine out it was all warped from rubbing on the lower arm cups corners.
Thanks for the info Blitz, I will check out my UA bags and see if there is any rubbing but i dont think there is last time i checked. So I think your saying since I am running UA bags they might get in the way of the new control arms if I decide to get them..
Q45er;362400 wrote:Thanks for the info Blitz, I will check out my UA bags and see if there is any rubbing but i dont think there is last time i checked. So I think your saying since I am running UA bags they might get in the way of the new control arms if I decide to get them..
[QUOTE=Q45er;362400]Thanks for the info Blitz, I will check out my UA bags and see if there is any rubbing but i dont think there is last time i checked. So I think your saying since I am running UA bags they might get in the way of the new control arms if I decide to get them..[/QUOTE] the new control arms get rid of that cup which is built in the stock LCA. Therefore you won't have a place to put the bag/spring anymore.
Blitz;362449 wrote:the new control arms get rid of that cup which is built in the stock LCA. Therefore you won't have a place to put the bag/spring anymore.
[QUOTE=Blitz;362449]the new control arms get rid of that cup which is built in the stock LCA. Therefore you won't have a place to put the bag/spring anymore.[/QUOTE] Oh snap really! is there another way, so dont have to get rid of the bags and cup that sounds like so much work/$ ? Maybe camber plates? or diff upper conrol arm?
all the Z33 rear stuff fits from SPL
having uas is going to limit your options i think. out of those, i think the best option would be to modify the stock arm to be adjustable by adding a heim joint to the outer end. [IMG]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs442.ash2/71542_998985572801_6028305_52080559_423015_n.jpg[/IMG] similar mod too y33 flca
[IMG]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2641/127/9/1555360852/n1555360852_193359_251637.jpg[/IMG]
OG;362770 wrote:having uas is going to limit your options i think. out of those, i think the best option would be to modify the stock arm to be adjustable by adding a heim joint to the outer end.
similar mod too y33 flca
[QUOTE=OG;362770]having uas is going to limit your options i think. out of those, i think the best option would be to modify the stock arm to be adjustable by adding a heim joint to the outer end. [IMG]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs442.ash2/71542_998985572801_6028305_52080559_423015_n.jpg[/IMG] similar mod too y33 flca[/QUOTE] that's a sexy ass photo
OG;362770 wrote:having uas is going to limit your options i think. out of those, i think the best option would be to modify the stock arm to be adjustable by adding a heim joint to the outer end.
similar mod too y33 flca
[QUOTE=OG;362770]having uas is going to limit your options i think. out of those, i think the best option would be to modify the stock arm to be adjustable by adding a heim joint to the outer end. [IMG]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs442.ash2/71542_998985572801_6028305_52080559_423015_n.jpg[/IMG] similar mod too y33 flca[/QUOTE] [B]OG[/B] where is this place that did this work?
Have you tried maxing out the factory camber and zero toe to tuck the side wall before making custom uppers? ..That might be all you need
Y34-619;365982 wrote:Have you tried maxing out the factory camber and zero toe to tuck the side wall before making custom uppers? ..That might be all you need
[QUOTE=Y34-619;365982]Have you tried maxing out the factory camber and zero toe to tuck the side wall before making custom uppers? ..That might be all you need[/QUOTE] Dont think there is a adjustment for the factory camber and not sure how to zero toe?? can this be done on a F50?
There actually is some factory camber adjustment, when I got my M aligned they said they could adjust it for me, but I told them I wanted it to remain as it was. I'm not sure how much adjustment there is, but there is definitely some.
Q45er;365977 wrote:OG where is this place that did this work?
[QUOTE=Q45er;365977][B]OG[/B] where is this place that did this work?[/QUOTE] alex pfeiffer did the work for me. that's my photo :P
cheez80;365992 wrote:alex pfeiffer did the work for me. that's my photo :P
[QUOTE=cheez80;365992]alex pfeiffer did the work for me. that's my photo :P[/QUOTE] You think he can do my Q? you have a contact number?
F.L.S.;365987 wrote:There actually is some factory camber adjustment, when I got my M aligned they said they could adjust it for me, but I told them I wanted it to remain as it was. I'm not sure how much adjustment there is, but there is definitely some.
[QUOTE=F.L.S.;365987]There actually is some factory camber adjustment, when I got my M aligned they said they could adjust it for me, but I told them I wanted it to remain as it was. I'm not sure how much adjustment there is, but there is definitely some.[/QUOTE] any alignment shop? any ones in OC area that know there stuff???
The one that did mine was just an ordinary shop with a flat loading rack, Torrance Auto Care. But I would see if you can get Darrin at WestEnd Alignments in Gardena, he's the man, but usually booked up.
Q45er;365994 wrote:You think he can do my Q? you have a contact number?
[QUOTE=Q45er;365994]You think he can do my Q? you have a contact number?[/QUOTE] battleversion.com
wait, isn't midnight garage ross handling your shit? what happened?
cheez80;366006 wrote:wait, isn't midnight garage ross handling your shit? what happened?
[QUOTE=cheez80;366006]wait, isn't midnight garage ross handling your shit? what happened?[/QUOTE] He is very busy so doing research.
F.L.S.;366002 wrote:The one that did mine was just an ordinary shop with a flat loading rack, Torrance Auto Care. But I would see if you can get Darrin at WestEnd Alignments in Gardena, he's the man, but usually booked up.
[QUOTE=F.L.S.;366002]The one that did mine was just an ordinary shop with a flat loading rack, Torrance Auto Care. But I would see if you can get Darrin at WestEnd Alignments in Gardena, he's the man, but usually booked up.[/QUOTE] Talked to Darrin and no go on the camber for my Q, was recommending custom fab, left a vm with Christian at The shop
Q45er;366017 wrote:He is very busy so doing research.
[QUOTE=Q45er;366017]He is very busy so doing research.[/QUOTE] got it
Just so I understand, you need to shorten the stock arm because you have to retain it because it supports your UAS bag?
AME_VIP;366028 wrote:Just so I understand, you need to shorten the stock arm because you have to retain it because it supports your UAS bag?
[QUOTE=AME_VIP;366028]Just so I understand, you need to shorten the stock arm because you have to retain it because it supports your UAS bag?[/QUOTE] The bags are ok where they are at and will not be moved (in the spring cup) just going to fab either new upper control arms with new hem joint and make adjustable, or diff lower arms maybe be able to use 350z adjustable lowr arms..going to chex that option out today.
you could put a adjustable joint on the lower control arm that houses the bag where it bolts to the spindle. This way it stays stationary on the cross member but you can push out on the wheel side of it. If that makes sense
Kouki Monster;366175 wrote:you could put a adjustable joint on the lower control arm that houses the bag where it bolts to the spindle. This way it stays stationary on the cross member but you can push out on the wheel side of it.
If that makes sense
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;366175]you could put a adjustable joint on the lower control arm that houses the bag where it bolts to the spindle. This way it stays stationary on the cross member but you can push out on the wheel side of it. If that makes sense[/QUOTE] What adjustable arm did you use? SPL, Megan..?
i didnt use any
Kouki Monster;366181 wrote:i didnt use any
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;366181]i didnt use any[/QUOTE] Im going to go check ouot z33/350z rear camber arms looks like they will do the trick on getting me a little negative camber! Crossing my fingers! :dance:
Yeah i have some but never used them they just the red genaric ones on eBay for a test fit.
Kouki Monster;366467 wrote:Yeah i have some but never used them they just the red genaric ones on eBay for a test fit.
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;366467]Yeah i have some but never used them they just the red genaric ones on eBay for a test fit.[/QUOTE] Will they fit though?
Also curious if the generic ones fit?
Anything z g fits
Kouki Monster;366492 wrote:Anything z g fits
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;366492]Anything z g fits[/QUOTE] WOO HOO!!!!!!!:dance:
Nagisa?????????
Celestak;366963 wrote:Nagisa?????????
[QUOTE=Celestak;366963]Nagisa?????????[/QUOTE] In Japan which will take forever to get here! not ot mention $$$$
Got the 350z lower camber arms and they FIT!! but it threw the toe off a lot so back to the drawing board!:pat:
Do the Z adjustable toe bars fit also? If so your toe will be all good :biggthumpup: [IMG]http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/o1o9o6o3impala/350ZRearSuspensionarmkit.jpg[/IMG]
try eibach/spc z33 toe bolts... may be able to get you back in spec.
Q45er;366494 wrote:WOO HOO!!!!!!!:dance:
[QUOTE=Q45er;366494]WOO HOO!!!!!!!:dance:[/QUOTE] hahah someone's excited. :runcoold:
dude, ilik ei said before ALL the z33 rears get it all.
only adjustable z33 midlinks i know of are spl. these are also the links used for toe adjustment. the issues i see with this and uas is that the bags/cups may not fit properly. they are not designed for factory springs. if you want more info or to give em a shot hit me up, i'm an spl dealer now. another option would be to convert to true coilovers and aerosport bags (assuming there's clearance). then you could use the spl toe links that remove the spring bucket with no problems.
They love it in the rear? Lol
OG;367231 wrote:only adjustable z33 midlinks i know of are spl. these are also the links used for toe adjustment. the issues i see with this and uas is that the bags/cups may not fit properly. they are not designed for factory springs. if you want more info or to give em a shot hit me up, i'm an spl dealer now.
another option would be to convert to true coilovers and aerosport bags (assuming there's clearance). then you could use the spl toe links that remove the spring bucket with no problems.
[QUOTE=OG;367231]only adjustable z33 midlinks i know of are spl. these are also the links used for toe adjustment. the issues i see with this and uas is that the bags/cups may not fit properly. they are not designed for factory springs. if you want more info or to give em a shot hit me up, i'm an spl dealer now. another option would be to convert to true coilovers and aerosport bags (assuming there's clearance). then you could use the spl toe links that remove the spring bucket with no problems.[/QUOTE] Thanks OG for the info! I appreciate it! I think my buddy is going to make new upper control arms and make them adjustable kinda like in the pic on this thread. Will keep you all posted! Working on having the most agressive, cambered fitted F50 in Cali!:biggthumpup:
Here is how it sits now with no camber just a lot of rolling and pulling, and a 265 30 20 General tire. [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/f.jpg[/IMG]
youre probably gonna end up needing as much camber as i had on the tl
I wonder what your camber is at now? Prob going to need 8 deg or so. I found on my Lexus that 1 deg neg camber = 2.5 mm of poke reduced
After getting the 265 30 and rolling and some little pulling I think about 5 degrees should be good, the fender should sit in between the tire and lip
all i know is, the car looked so sexy last night! love the new wheels! sorry i couldn;t meet you though.
ALEXTHESUS*PECT;367673 wrote:all i know is, the car looked so sexy last night! love the new wheels! sorry i couldn;t meet you though.
[QUOTE=ALEXTHESUS*PECT;367673]all i know is, the car looked so sexy last night! love the new wheels! sorry i couldn;t meet you though.[/QUOTE] right on next time bro! that meet last night was craaazy
ALEXTHESUS*PECT;367673 wrote:all i know is, the car looked so sexy last night! love the new wheels! sorry i couldn;t meet you though.
[QUOTE=ALEXTHESUS*PECT;367673]all i know is, the car looked so sexy last night! love the new wheels! sorry i couldn;t meet you though.[/QUOTE] X2 xtra clean car wheels are too dope :biggthumpup:
Y34-619;367786 wrote:X2 xtra clean car wheels are too dope :biggthumpup:
[QUOTE=Y34-619;367786]X2 xtra clean car wheels are too dope :biggthumpup:[/QUOTE] Y34 your car sooooooooooo sweet! Your signature pic doesn't do it justice, in person your M is the sickest M I've ever seen!!
does the magazine roll work pretty good? lol
It's more for pulling the fenders out a little and it does work! ghetto pull LOL
haha right on.. i will have to try it some time.
Kouki Monster;367818 wrote:haha right on.. i will have to try it some time.
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;367818]haha right on.. i will have to try it some time.[/QUOTE] my little cousin did it on his rsx. i was skeptical that it would come out clean at first, but i guess the phonebook has even dist. of pressure lol. just gotta heat the bejesus out of the fender, but that's the case with any fender work.
we talkin LA phone book or a Fargo phone book? lol
LOL. HouTex > * :runcoold:
OH yeh dont forget to HEAT up the fenders =) and I would use like half a phone book / thick mag' shoved under, not the WHOLE phone book or you will end up with fender flares not a slight pull! LOL
Q45er;367869 wrote:OH yeh dont forget to HEAT up the fenders =) and I would use like half a phone book / thick mag' shoved under, not the WHOLE phone book or you will end up with fender flares not a slight pull! LOL
[QUOTE=Q45er;367869]OH yeh dont forget to HEAT up the fenders =) and I would use like half a phone book / thick mag' shoved under, not the WHOLE phone book or you will end up with fender flares not a slight pull! LOL[/QUOTE] wrd. too much and you'll get a full 2 inch pull :smiley-rofl:
Kouki Monster;367804 wrote:does the magazine roll work pretty good? lol
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;367804]does the magazine roll work pretty good? lol[/QUOTE] that's how i did it on my Q. i used free autotrader classifieds newspapers though :P
I heard the phone book trick works really well. it helps if you get it wet so it's not so stiff and can flare them out a bit better too.
wait, what do you get wet that is not so stiff LOL
huh, i may need to do this.. i dont have inner fender wells right now sure would make it easier to get it flared out more.. hope it keeps the shape i need and not so much a flared edge like most cars.
Kouki Monster;368012 wrote:huh, i may need to do this.. i dont have inner fender wells right now sure would make it easier to get it flared out more.. hope it keeps the shape i need and not so much a flared edge like most cars.
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;368012]huh, i may need to do this.. i dont have inner fender wells right now sure would make it easier to get it flared out more.. hope it keeps the shape i need and not so much a flared edge like most cars.[/QUOTE] It will keep the shape, mine didnt flare out at all
huh, okay. So phone books to use are: LA if i am not lowered Hawaiian if I am not stylin Fargo if my flush wheels need a bit more room to go.
Kouki Monster;368086 wrote:huh, okay.
So phone books to use are:
LA if i am not lowered
Hawaiian if I am not stylin
Fargo if my flush wheels need a bit more room to go.
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;368086]huh, okay. So phone books to use are: LA if i am not lowered Hawaiian if I am not stylin Fargo if my flush wheels need a bit more room to go.[/QUOTE] LOL yeah I guess something like that.
FLSImages;367219 wrote:dude, ilik ei said before
ALL the z33 rears
get it all.
[QUOTE=FLSImages;367219]dude, ilik ei said before ALL the z33 rears get it all.[/QUOTE] So the aftermarker 350z toe arms fit to?
the whole rear shits are the same
New lower toe arms custom made =) I will post pics of my car tomarrow to dark now. Im running 6.5 degrees negative =) [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/newarm.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/newarm2.jpg[/IMG]
good job steve. =)
yeah! thats the way to do it!
those wheels at -6.5 on an f50 :biggthumpup:
Finished products pics under the car [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/arm.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/arm2.jpg[/IMG]
Some crappy cell pics for now! Photo shoot later.. [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/IMAG0510.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/IMAG0511.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/IMAG0512.jpg[/IMG]
Nice job Steve!!
still needs more camber imo, if your dead set on no bodywork. looks sick tho and on the right track
Tight it looks real bulky in my opinion maybe lower? Kit? I have this problem with my car and then lowered it more. I guess it looks more drag car setup than VIP but you got them to fit lol I say bite bullet and do body work
another angle [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/IMAG0514.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/IMAG0513.jpg[/IMG]
Wild! Have to agree tho it looks like it needs a little more camber. Or you could shave the mounting pad of the wheel or the brake rotor hat.
i admire the progress, but i feel like i gotta be honest... i think the overall looks aweful. as long as you're happy though. :biggthumpup: who modified the arms? i need to get in that game and stop playin around.
OG;369197 wrote:i admire the progress, but i feel like i gotta be honest... i think the overall looks aweful. as long as you're happy though. :biggthumpup:
who modified the arms? i need to get in that game and stop playin around.
[QUOTE=OG;369197]i admire the progress, but i feel like i gotta be honest... i think the overall looks aweful. as long as you're happy though. :biggthumpup: who modified the arms? i need to get in that game and stop playin around.[/QUOTE] Alex Pfeiffer did the arms @ Battle Version great job cool dood!
AME_VIP;369196 wrote:Wild!
Have to agree tho it looks like it needs a little more camber. Or you could shave the mounting pad of the wheel or the brake rotor hat.
[QUOTE=AME_VIP;369196]Wild! Have to agree tho it looks like it needs a little more camber. Or you could shave the mounting pad of the wheel or the brake rotor hat.[/QUOTE] inside wheel face is shaved down the lowest it can go, gunna to some fender work..work in progress!
Thanks for the feed back guys.
car def. needs more more more low. crazy camber needs tuck imo.
Trying to just kiss lip, little more to go.
Yeah for how big the wheel is it needs radius rear quarter panel. Would look hot!
this is an instance of too much lol. either put in some more camber, or get the welder out ad make some fenders and just sayin, if they were 18s youd be sittin pretty with a hair more camber
going to cut and pull the rear fenders. Stay tunned=)
good choice man
Q45er;369222 wrote:going to cut and pull the rear fenders. Stay tunned=)
[QUOTE=Q45er;369222]going to cut and pull the rear fenders. Stay tunned=)[/QUOTE] i support this.
FLSImages;369220 wrote:this is an instance of too much lol.
either put in some more camber, or get the welder out ad make some fenders
and just sayin, if they were 18s youd be sittin pretty with a hair more camber
[QUOTE=FLSImages;369220]this is an instance of too much lol. either put in some more camber, or get the welder out ad make some fenders and just sayin, if they were 18s youd be sittin pretty with a hair more camber[/QUOTE] 18's on a F50 NO way that is waaay to small of a wheel even when i test fitted 19's on my F50 the car just ate them up! looked odd to samll! 20's are perfect size they look big because of the 4.5 and 6 inch lips, will get better pics when the fenders are done.
look at agi's car when it was on 18s back in the day. 18s are never too small, you're just too high. =p i think the look you have is a combination of a lot of things. this is only my opinion: [LIST] [*]the wheel style doesn't match the car [*]the specs are too aggressive, all things considered [*]the size/fitment of the wheels is keeping the car high [*]the rear is cambered significantly more than the front [/LIST]a tuck/radius will fix the height, adjustable front lca can fix the camber, but the matching is unfixable. i look at your sig pic and i look at the new look and i see backwards progress. not trying to kill your spirit, just hoping you'll think hard about what you're doing. sometimes we fall in love with ideas that blind us to the execution.
OG;369319 wrote:look at agi's car when it was on 18s back in the day. 18s are never too small, you're just too high. =p
i think the look you have is a combination of a lot of things. this is only my opinion:
a tuck/radius will fix the height, adjustable front lca can fix the camber, but the matching is unfixable. i look at your sig pic and i look at the new look and i see backwards progress. not trying to kill your spirit, just hoping you'll think hard about what you're doing. sometimes we fall in love with ideas that blind us to the execution.
- the wheel style doesn't match the car
- the specs are too aggressive, all things considered
- the size/fitment of the wheels is keeping the car high
- the rear is cambered significantly more than the front
[QUOTE=OG;369319]look at agi's car when it was on 18s back in the day. 18s are never too small, you're just too high. =p i think the look you have is a combination of a lot of things. this is only my opinion: [LIST] [*]the wheel style doesn't match the car [*]the specs are too aggressive, all things considered [*]the size/fitment of the wheels is keeping the car high [*]the rear is cambered significantly more than the front [/LIST]a tuck/radius will fix the height, adjustable front lca can fix the camber, but the matching is unfixable. i look at your sig pic and i look at the new look and i see backwards progress. not trying to kill your spirit, just hoping you'll think hard about what you're doing. sometimes we fall in love with ideas that blind us to the execution.[/QUOTE] OG points taken thanks for the feed back. 1. I got these wheels in these agressive specs to be original and a one off at least in So Cal 2. i know people rock 18's and 19's and i wanted 20's just like the look on the car seen Agi's F50 and its DOPE! love it, but my build is going to be a little different. 3. fender work going to be done to cover the rest of the tire thats exposed in the rear so hopefully it will sit a littel better and LOWER=) I disagree the wheels do match the car other VIP cars including the F50 in Japan are rocking the BBS style old school wheels. The front isnt cambered but can be, but for right now choosing not to, working on the rear first. Dont worry about killing my spirit, to each there own on there VIP builds.=)
I think you are off to a great start and I love the camber work. I also don't mind the wheels either. They are different. You car in its current state is just WAYYY too high in my opinion. You should be tucking rim
i agree that the 20s are too big but holy fuckin shit those musta been expensive as hell..was thinking they were 19s!! admire your maturity and itll look good after the fender work..glad you decided to go that route. youre on the right track bro.
I have seen 20s on F50s a lot. I like it, I think its the super aggressive stats of the wheel in its self. I think what he has realized too, is if you go that aggressive you have to go that much in body work. Most of the F50s on 20s are tucked or super radius style, I have faith it will all come together quite well when he matches the over the wheels to the over the top car
Q45er;369323 wrote:...the F50 in Japan are rocking the BBS style old school wheels...
[QUOTE=Q45er;369323]...the F50 in Japan are rocking the BBS style old school wheels...[/QUOTE] i love f50s and super rs but i dislike the one from japan i've seen also. to me the basket weave mesh is best on older body styles, newer chassis look better with clean mesh (lm, lm-r, lm9, ms1, etc.). sounds like you have a plan that you're commited to, so show me i am wrong. :biggthumpup:
Did some more cut and pull. Pic from yesterday at lunch=) Getting there! [IMG]http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff205/skim350/IMAG0523.jpg[/IMG]
Sick
looking good Steve!
short video:biggthumpup: [URL]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egr8gLn6YRk&feature=feedwll[/URL]
Didnt want to dup thread here is the thread of my rear camber set up build thread! [url]http://www.vipstylecars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24346[/url]