Rear camber arms for UCF20

Whats up guys!

I´m getting front camber adapters soon, and my plan was to through spacers in the back and camber wheels more. I like my camber now, but I want more.

To camber more, I need new arms. Nagisa 3 arms come ~1800 $ which is too much for me :pat:. I found no other adjustable arms for UCF20.
What you guys think, is it possible to buy Lexus IS arms (or some other arms that look similar to LS400´s) and modify them to fit LS400? How hard is that ?? They are way more cheaper.



Any thoughts?? What would you guys do ???

You can take the arm out and section out a 1/4" strip and weld it back together. Or the mounting bolts that secure the arm to the subframe, take them out and replace them with smaller diameter grade 8 bolts so you can slide the arm inward a little bit more... Or buy new bolts, grade 8 from home depot or somewhere, take the old eccentric bolts out, get your dermal and elongate the hole opennings more... Just a few ways I've done it....

My mechanic is planning on fabbing new ones altogether for me. He says it would be pretty straight forward to replicate the Nagisa ones. He said he'd still use rubber bushings as well. The Nagisa ones aren't designed for daily use.
Check these out as well: [url]http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/569074-ls400-nrcas.html[/url]

Thanks [I]mista808[/I] for sharing the idea, but I think its not enought for me.

[I]Schnitz[/I], why Nagisa is not for daily use? because theres no rubber bushings, the ride is not going to be smooth??
I´ve seen this topic on CL, but I dont really get this guy: he speaks about rear camber, but fotos are shown of front suspension, last picture is rear camber. I cant understand it :pat:

here are some Lexus arms I was thinking about: [url]http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=lexus+adjustable+arm&_sacat=See-All-Categories[/url]
I dont think its hard to modify them to fit LS400. Just need to measure lengts, ends can be modified. I´m not in a hurry with this, but in a month or 2 I want change how my rear looks.

Ya, the lack of bushings on the Nagisas will make for a crazy rough ride, not to mention the squeaks and rattles.

You might as well start from scratch with the custom arms or find adjustable ones without a ball joint on the end to start from.

[QUOTE=Schnitz;391049]Ya, the lack of bushings on the Nagisas will make for a crazy rough ride, not to mention the squeaks and rattles.[/QUOTE]
 
not bein' a d**k, but what experience do you have with heim joints?
 
"crazy rough ride" is very subjective and "squeks and rattles" are not characteristics of solid joints.

I've had the same type joints in 1 of my Mustangs and my STi. Worked well at the track, sucked shyte on the street. Especially after a salty winter.

Solid joints with little to no give create squeaks and rattles with other accompanying parts. If it was designed to move its gonna have to move somewhere.

I think a modified 350Z rear arm is worth looking at.

[QUOTE=Schnitz;391157]I've had the same type joints in 1 of my Mustangs and my STi. Worked well at the track, sucked shyte on the street. Especially after a salty winter.
 
Solid joints with little to no give create squeaks and rattles with other accompanying parts. If it was designed to move its gonna have to move somewhere.[/QUOTE]
 
solid joints have a larger range of movement in all directions than rubber bushings. squeaks/rattles are caused by dirty/worn joints.
 
also, as is typical with suspension, the weakest link fails. so adding new rigid parts may cause failure of older soft parts.
 
one more thing to consider is that all joints are not created equal. i.e. plain jane joint vs. self lubricating/cleaning, etc. etc.

thanks guys for the info!
most of the aftermarket adjustable rear arms I´ve seen on the web come without rubber bushings.
I dont want any sqeeks, but camber is kinda more important =) I´m ready to oil spray it daily :naughty:

found some pictures of modified arms from LS430
 
[IMG]http://www.clublexus.com/forums/members/azcamber-albums-garage-another-lexus-ls430-picture17615-arms-for-lowered430s-car-made-by-grunioncustoms-com.jpg[/IMG]
 
[IMG]http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/townlow/LEXUS/modifiedstockarms.jpg[/IMG]
 
[IMG]http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/townlow/LEXUS/adjustablelowers.jpg[/IMG]

found a shop that sells almost everything needed to make camber arms. Soon I will install front camber adapters and I will take some measures in the rear suspension to see what components could fit.

[url]http://www.speedwaymotors.com/[/url]
tie rod sleeves, ends with bushings and many more.

I found it through [URL="http://www.club202.com/forums/showthread.php?15907-DIY-Adjustable-rear-camber-arms"]mercedes forum[/URL], one guy made them for his car: 76 $ for a one pair of camber arms. Not bad at all !!!!

Damn! Keep us posted.

[QUOTE=Schnitz;391834]Damn! Keep us posted.[/QUOTE]

I sure will.
I decided to modify the stock arms.
For now camber, toe and caster arms are off. Had to cut those adjustable bolt, because they didnt want to come out.
Front camber adapters are coming this week, so my plan is to make these arms adjustable during this week too. Here are some pictures:

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/Camber/IMG_6077.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/Camber/IMG_6078.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/Camber/IMG_6091.jpg[/IMG]

so what are the plans as far as parts you're going to add? double adljuster, sleeves, and jamb nuts?

[QUOTE=OG;392416]so what are the plans as far as parts you're going to add? double adljuster, sleeves, and jamb nuts?[/QUOTE]

I´m going with the double adjusters, just like in the post #11 :tounged:

have you made any measurments/cuts yet? i'm curious to find out if you could just tap the original arm or if you are going to need a sleeve to thread the double adjuster into.

[QUOTE=OG;392422]have you made any measurments/cuts yet? i'm curious to find out if you could just tap the original arm or if you are going to need a sleeve to thread the double adjuster into.[/QUOTE]

I havent made any measurement yet. I will sure do before cutting.
Do you mean the thickness if the tube? is it fat enough to make a thread there?? well, I dont know. I will cut it tomorrow and see what we have. I´m not going to do threads myself, I will take it to a specialist. If the walls are not fat enough, then we´ll figgure something out. I will definatly reinforce the places where the threads are made.
for now I know that I have to cut a piece from the arms with the length of a place where you put a key to adjust it, so that the arm in the minimal length would be the same in length as a stock one.

you also need to consider the width of the jamb nuts.

[QUOTE=OG;392424]you also need to consider the width of the jamb nuts.[/QUOTE]
seems like you´ve done something similar before! I didnt think of that! THANKS !!!

nah... but i have thought it through on many occasions. definitely something i'd like to get into.

nice silo, this is gonna be a nice project.

[QUOTE=silos5;391573]found some pictures of modified arms from LS430
 
[IMG]http://www.clublexus.com/forums/members/azcamber-albums-garage-another-lexus-ls430-picture17615-arms-for-lowered430s-car-made-by-grunioncustoms-com.jpg[/IMG]
 
[IMG]http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/townlow/LEXUS/modifiedstockarms.jpg[/IMG]
 
[IMG]http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo57/townlow/LEXUS/adjustablelowers.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
I remember seening those.  But theyre not as nice as the set Im getting 

[IMG]https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/246616_10150201549053631_365725668630_6837985_5667550_n.jpg[/IMG]

:giggity:

Hilo - are those FIGS? they look hot.

those look dope Hilo, who makes those?

[QUOTE=LiCelsior;392653]those look dope Hilo, who makes those?[/QUOTE]
FIGS Engineering

[QUOTE=Mr.Doback;392650]Hilo - are those FIGS? they look hot.[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=LiCelsior;392653]those look dope Hilo, who makes those?[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=silos5;392659]FIGS Engineering[/QUOTE]

Yes Im getting those from FIGS.  He will be releasing 2 versions.  The one you see in my other post that will be adjustable while on the car and another set witch will be adjustable but will need one end to be removed in order to do so.

so figs dropped for the ucf? which chassis? btw, do yourself (or your alignment guy) a favor and get the double adjustables. single adjustable are ridiculous.

[QUOTE=OG;392677]so figs dropped for the ucf? which chassis? btw, do yourself (or your alignment guy) a favor and get the double adjustables. single adjustable are ridiculous.[/QUOTE]
He is working on the UCF30/31 parts first.  He will then be looking at others.

I want FIGS to release these! I need my wheels to fit haha

finally got the parts.
need to paint the ends and put new bushings.
 
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6147.jpg[/IMG]
 
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6148.jpg[/IMG]

Nice! So jealous....

Im sure that those will clean up nice. I think just my toe is off in the rear...would I have to modify all the arms or just the toe adjustment rod?

usually you need to change/modify all of these arms to keep from running out of adjustment on others. i.e. cahnge toe but now your lca won't allow you to get the camber spec you want. if you're not real picky you could probably get away with just toe.

this *hit really pisses me off. not a single state side shop makes arms for the ucf2 or any ucf. but i emailed them said not yet so who the hell knowsv when ucfs with get their share of the love.
 
[QUOTE=OG;392677]so figs dropped for the ucf? which chassis? btw, do yourself (or your alignment guy) a favor and get the double adjustables. single adjustable are ridiculous.[/QUOTE]

^ On the real!

nagisas are rediculously expensive, but what about t-demand?? I saw on minkara someone had their arms on ls400.

[QUOTE=silos5;397366]nagisas are rediculously expensive, but what about t-demand?? I saw on minkara someone had their arms on ls400.[/QUOTE]

t-demand pricing is like ikeya formula + 20% haha. and ikeya costs way more than nagisa...

no lie, i saw a set of used (used!) t-demand arms for y33 on yahoo japan auctions going for a ridiculous price (i forget exact how much, but i nearly shat myself when i saw that listing)

loooking good Pavel, can't wait to see this!

Wow, good progress on those arms. I agree with everyone else about the lack of multilink support for UCF chassis. Ive been waiting years for options and im not about to spend the money for all the nagisa arms when my car is barely worth that much these days.

Silo? Are you planning on going poly bushings or replacing them with stock rubber?

[QUOTE=nizzan4u2nv;397412]
 
Silo? Are you planning on going poly bushings or replacing them with stock rubber?[/QUOTE]
 
i found some aftermarket rubber bushings in a local shop, gonna get them today.

interesting mod....anybody did this for the 2GS rear tie rods?

finally got all parts to put my rear suspension back.
I was looking for about -10 degrees in the back, but I somehow miscalculated with a spacers. now I have 15mm, but will put 10mm, because camber came too huge for me, about -13 -14. I have stock fenders and bumpers and that amount of camber doesnt look good there.

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/Pilt043.jpg[/IMG]

god damnnnnnnn

[QUOTE=silos5;398512]finally got all parts to put my rear suspension back.
I was looking for about -10 degrees in the back, but I somehow miscalculated with a spacers. now I have 15mm, but will put 10mm, because camber came too huge for me, about -13 -14. I have stock fenders and bumpers and that amount of camber doesnt look good there.

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/Pilt043.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
 
HOLY HELL!

[QUOTE=Vincent;398518]god damnnnnnnn[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Phaze2_mizzark;398528]HOLY HELL![/QUOTE]

thats what I said when I did it =)


its not gonna be like this. that kind of camber doesnt go with the stock lines of the car.
today I experimented. Instead of 15mm speacers I put 8mm washers, just to see what camber I come with. It turned out -9 and thats was much better.

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6163.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6161.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6162.jpg[/IMG]

OH WOW! Demon camber!!!

Crazy wild. Pic's of the internals all put back together?

thanks guys!

[QUOTE=jason;398616]Crazy wild. Pic's of the internals all put back together?[/QUOTE]

here´s a picture of arms right after putting them back.
I also hade to make custom washers, because I cut adjustable bolts (they didnt come out). HID height sensor fitting is also custom made (not on the picture).

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6154.jpg[/IMG]

Very nice, i need a set shipped to socal.. Thanks.

That rear camber does look mighty fine :biggthumpup:
Maybe I should go hack&weld my arms as well.... hmmm food for thought.

thanks for that pic. Looks good. Were you able to get the toe correction with all the adjustments. Not sure if you had gotten to this yet but I am curious.

[QUOTE=jason;398723]thanks for that pic. Looks good. Were you able to get the toe correction with all the adjustments. Not sure if you had gotten to this yet but I am curious.[/QUOTE]

I havent made it to allignement yet. I need new spacers first. I´m sure the toe is no problem, because I could fit -13 -14 degrees and now its -9 -10, so there are threads for adjustment.

awesome progress man...

WINNING :biggthumpup:

lil update.
I have to say I´m a total failure!! :pat:
the car is still not ready. I´m was thinking that the rear suspension works not the way it actualy does.
What it does is if the wheel is poking (near the fender), it will make hell a lot of camber to make the wheel tuck. Even if the upper part tucks, the lower part of the wheel might kiss the fender. Daaaamn! All I need is a super small spacer for the wheels. All the camber comes from poking of the lower part of the wheel. I have never read about it. I´m sure all japanees know this from kinder garden, but damn ... I´m in the middle on mf´ing nowhere.
 
:shrug:

Yea, adjusting camber from an LCA vs a UCA/camber plate ends up with different results.

yessir. i was trying to explain this to chris (cubangs) not long ago. you have to consider the pivot points. you can achieve an equal camber measurment by either pushing out the bottom or pulling in the top, but the effect on fitment will be different.

soo jelly!!! wanna make me some lolz

I'[m just messing with the same sort of thing with my front camber blocks. Bottom goes out and gives more camber but the fitment is a little different.
No problem though dood. It's all part of the game.

yeah guys, wasting/spending time and money is a part of a game.

yesturday was a test drive. All wheels are looking in different directions =), steering is awful. Going to allignement on monday. I also discovered my arm bushing that is on the assy is totally f**ked up. Ordered new ones and they arrived today. they actually for other toyotas:
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6174.jpg[/IMG]
only 7 euro (10 $) each, rubber, not some poly sh*t.

So next week I´m gonna torture some rubber :biggthumpup:

Finally allignement done.
 
-7 front, -11 back (@ ride height)
 
poor tyres =)
 
I´ll make a new topic later as I make some fotos.

i dailyed for a SHORT while between -9 and -13 camber and shits scary..props to you !!

How are you getting -7 in the front? Did you modify the front as well?

[QUOTE=nizzan4u2nv;400029]How are you getting -7 in the front? Did you modify the front as well?[/QUOTE]

I put STUDIO adapters in front. I have 9 +15 in front with 215/35 tyres and I had problems clearing fenders, so I modifyed the UCA and knuckle connection to get more camber.
The UCA´s ball joint bolt goes into a V shape hole on the knuckle. I cut this hole to the end, welded new wall, made some sord of stopper, just in case. It gave me about 1,5 cm.

[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6133.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6137.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6139.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6142.jpg[/IMG]

Wow thats pretty innovative. Good job. I need to pick up a set of studio adapters as well. How much would you say it pushed the wheel out?

[QUOTE=nizzan4u2nv;400131]Wow thats pretty innovative. Good job. I need to pick up a set of studio adapters as well. How much would you say it pushed the wheel out?[/QUOTE]

well, my 9 +15 with 225/35 didnt fit after STUDIO install (wheel was almost kissing the fender), so I switched to 215/35 and did the cutting on the knuckle.

[QUOTE=silos5;400034]I put STUDIO adapters in front. I have 9 +15 in front with 215/35 tyres and I had problems clearing fenders, so I modifyed the UCA and knuckle connection to get more camber.
The UCA´s ball joint bolt goes into a V shape hole on the knuckle. I cut this hole to the end, welded new wall, made some sord of stopper, just in case. It gave me about 1,5 cm.
 
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6133.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6137.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6139.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/IMG_6142.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
 
props on innovation but that looks super sketchy to me. i don't think i could drive on it.

[QUOTE=nizzan4u2nv;400131]Wow thats pretty innovative. Good job. I need to pick up a set of studio adapters as well. How much would you say it pushed the wheel out?[/QUOTE]

camber adapters will push the bottom of the wheel out, they won't  have a huge affect at the top of the wheel as far as fitment goes.

OG, why its skechy?? I thought about it too, but as I understand there is no pressure on that part, UCA bolt is pushed into the V shape cut (that stopper doesnt do much there).

one more question. I ran into trouble with the drive shaft. Because of the camber, axle/drive shaft moved about 5mm from the differential and now it leaks oil. Daaaamn :pat:
I never heard about that problem.

what to do??
got my car today into one shop near the garaze and they didnt advice me nothing, but to put some custom spacers on the rim´s side of the shaft.
I just came home and watched some drawings.
is it safe to put some washers between the connection of the axle and differential?? (picture added) 
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/ls400diff1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i415.photobucket.com/albums/pp234/silosfive/diff.jpg[/IMG]

or I just need to lower the camber :sad:

well the ball joint is made to fit into a beveled hole.  by making it into a beveled line you've made it possible for leteral movement. there will be force in an inward/outward direction, which will push against the outer "stopper" right on the area that has been welded. i'm not saying it will fail, i'm just saying [I]i[/I] wouldn't trust it. i think if i decided this was the way to go i would have a whole upper plate machined and cut and weld to the neck.
 
no ideas on the axles, but a spacer doesn't sound too bad.

I agree with you OG, but the hole is V shaped, meaning the bolt doesnt go easy inside. the cut was a bit small for the bolt, so the place for the bolt I made by hand. By tightening the nut I made it stuck there quite good. To prevent the movement I put a stopper. I have drove my car a bit and no problem. I will weekly inspect this. If there was more space, I would just make another hole for the bolt. I wish adjustable UCAs were not that expensive.

As for the axle thing, I have desided to lower the camber until the axle goes back into the differential. There is about 5 mm, hope it wont effect the camber too much. I dont want to "invent a bycicle" with some washers and spacers, dont want to waste time on this either. I just wonder how japanees guys solve that problem :yahoo_26:

lil update again.
problem with the axle solved. It just didnt extend itself:pat: , so couple of hammer hits and its in the differensial. drove about 30 km, and its in place. Now need to figgure out why ABS and headlight leveling is f@$#ing my brain =)

can anyone refer me to studios website or any other contact info. thanks

since you have to run a -11 camber on the rears then what are the wheel specs?

[QUOTE=SIMPLE G50;403134]since you have to run a -11 camber on the rears then what are the wheel specs?[/QUOTE]

I ran 10,5 +15 with stock arms before, and wheels were flush.
the thing with the adjustable arms and camber is that only the lower part of the wheel sticks out, making that camber. If before I had about -5, so now I have -11 and I added only 3mm spacers.
I had no idea about it. I have never read about it. I saw pictures on minkara about it, but japanees is same as dog barking to me: dont understand a thing :saiyancrunks:
I actually bought 15 mm spacers and stopped on 3 mm =) 
my brain almost cracked from not understanding why I couldnt fit my wheels :pat: