Wheel Building 101 (by B. Gorman)

[SIZE=3][B]OK.....here's the deal. Since I joined this forum, a lot of members are asking me a lot of the same questions about wheel parts and wheel rebuilding. So instead of answering the same questions over and over in PM's and different threads...I have decided to start an informative thread all about wheels and wheel parts. 

As many of you already know, I am a custom wheel builder/re-builder, but first and foremost....I'm a custom car nut (and some people say I'm a pretty cool dude too...LOL)! What that means is...I don't mind sharing my knowledge and helping to educate other members when it comes to wheels, offsets, parts, ect! 

I will begin this thread by posting detailed pictures of wheel parts and types of wheels. I will explain what and what cannot be done with these wheels and parts!

NOTE: I don't have all the answers, and if I don't know...I'll tell you. I am still learning each day myself. What I do know is from my personal experience (both good and bad), and what has worked for me so far! Other than that, all I can offer you is my honest opinion based on common sense.

B. Gorman[/B][/SIZE]

Awesome...!

Roll that info over ... But thread wisely since other might consider it as you vending .. :biggthumpup:

[SIZE=3][B]I am in  NO WAY trying to push my services on this forum...to whom it may concern! Please don't get it Twisted. If my info isn't helpful to others, the mods can delete it anytime they like. I already know this stuff![/B][/SIZE] =)

[SIZE=3][B]Standard Outer Lip (AKA: Step lip)[/B][/SIZE]
[B]These are the old style step lip. They have a classic design with the flat edge, but the design has since been improved and made stronger![/B]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_162654.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_162717.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]Reverse Standard Outer Lip (AKA: New step lip)[/B][/SIZE]
[B]This is the newer style step lip with a rolled edge. It's a softer looking lip with the rounded edge (also easier to get), but the rolled edge is indeed a stronger design![/B]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_162812.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_162821.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]Reverse Lip (AKA: Flat Lips) with rolled edge.[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163000.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163009.jpg[/IMG]

Should be an awesome thread!!!!  Can't wait to see more pictures posted :)

[SIZE=3][B]Reverse Lip (AKA: Flat Lip) with non rolled edge![/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163341.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163359.jpg[/IMG]

[B][SIZE=3]Reverse Inner Barrel (rolled edge)[/SIZE]
These are newer style inner barrels.[/B]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163135.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]Reverse Inner Barrel (old style non rolled edge)[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163242.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163249.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]One Piece Reverse Barrel (with Bolt flange)[/B][/SIZE]
[B]This is for a 2 Piece bolt in wheel set up. [/B]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163553.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163618.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163631.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]Three Piece Reverse Lip Wheel [/B][/SIZE]
[B](with Welded and Sealed Inner and outer Barrel)

This was a popular japanese 3 piece wheel set-up. It starts as 3 piece wheel that is bolted together, then it is welded where the inner and outer barrels meet, and sometimes even sealed over the weld.
These wheels can be made into true 3 piece wheels, by simply unbolting the center and bolting it into the proper inner and outer barrel assembly (and then sealed).
These inner and outer parts can also be cut apart and modified (in certain cases), but it is really labor intensive and usually not worth the money IMO![/B]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163553.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163618.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163631.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]Three Piece Reverse Lip Wheel [/B][/SIZE]
[B](with Welded and Sealed Inner and outer Barrel)

This was a popular japanese 3 piece wheel set-up. It starts as 3 piece wheel that is bolted together, then it is welded where the inner and outer barrels meet, and sometimes even sealed over the weld.
These wheels can be made into true 3 piece wheels, by simply unbolting the center and bolting it into the proper inner and outer barrel assembly (and then sealed).
These inner and outer parts can also be cut apart and modified (in certain cases), but it is really labor intensive and usually not worth the money IMO![/B]

[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163755.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163811.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163817.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_163840.jpg[/IMG]

Mods, please delete post #13 and this post ...I cannot edit yet and posted the wrong set of pictures!

Thanks

This is going to be awesome!

[B][SIZE=3]Two Piece Welded Reverse Lip Wheel.[/SIZE]
This is where the face is welded into a 1 piece barrel (without a bolt flange)
NOTE: Notice the bolts are only cosmetic through the face, and the weld where the face meets the barrel on the inner side of the wheel is what really holds the center to the barrel.
These style wheels can be converted into a 2 or 3 piece wheel configuration (in certain instances), but it is labor intense and takes precision machining to be done right (and can be expensive).[/B]

[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110425_210843.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110425_210836.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110425_210827.jpg[/IMG]

[B][SIZE=3]True 3 Piece Wheel 
Outer Lip
Center Face
Inner Barrel[/SIZE]
(needs to be bolted together and sealed or welded at the seam)[/B]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211529.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211542.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211559.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211605.jpg[/IMG]

[B][SIZE=3]2 Piece Bolt together wheel
One Piece Barrel
Center Face[/SIZE]
(needs to be bolted together)[/B]
[B]Note: Most of the centers are interchangeable, but some require machining, modifications, and sometimes custom drilled barrels.[/B]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211339.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211352.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211407.jpg[/IMG]

[B][SIZE=4]Proper way to measure Wheel Width:[/SIZE]

[SIZE=3]Bead seat to beat seat is actual width[/SIZE][/B]


[SIZE=3][B]Below is a 9.5" Wheel[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_210657.jpg[/IMG]
[SIZE=3][B]
Below is a 10.5" Wheel[/B][/SIZE] 
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_210726.jpg[/IMG]
[SIZE=3][B]
If you can only measure from edge to edge (because a tire is mounted), then subtract 1" from the overall width, and that is your actual wheel width (in super rare cases, it may only be a 1/2"...but that's UBER RARE!!!)[/B][/SIZE] 
[SIZE=3][B]
So 11.5" from edge to edge = a 10.5" wheel (actual width)[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_210740.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]So 10.5" from edge to edge = a 9.5" wheel (actual width)[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_210757.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]When measuring 3 piece wheel parts (either the inner barrel or outer lip), measure from the bead seat to the middle of the seal.[/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][B]Below is a 5" outer Lip[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_210818.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]Below is a 5.5" inner Barrel[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_210841.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=4][B]Different Types of wheel centers:[/B][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][B]
Forged (CNC machined from a forged Block of aluminum) Center (with Blind bolts that fasten into the rear of the face).[/B][/SIZE] 
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211751.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211803.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]
Forged Center (with through bolts)[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211827.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211836.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]
Cast Center (made in a mold and cast into the shape)[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211857.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211907.jpg[/IMG]


[SIZE=2][B]Cast centers usually have rough spots in the inside of the wheel face, or in the windows of the wheel, and the surface areas of the front and mounting areas are machined down to a smooth or polished finish after the casting is made. They also usually have raised casting numbers and markings (CNC milled centers usually have engraved markings).[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211923.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_211929.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=5][B]Easy Way to Measure Wheel Offset:[/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][B]
1. Place wheel face down.[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212701.jpg[/IMG]
[SIZE=3][B]
2. Measure the width of the wheel from Edge to Edge. 
(this is a 9" wheel, but is 10" from edge to edge, so use 10" for offset purposes!)[/B][/SIZE] 
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212855.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=3][B]3. Place a straight edge across the outermost part of the inner Edge
 (on top of the wheel)

4. Measure from the hub pad (the part that sits against your rotors)
 to the bottom of the straight edge).
On this wheel, it is 6.5" from the Hub Pad to the top of the wheel (or bottom of the straight edge)[/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][B]This is called your BACK-SPACING[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212951.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_213032.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=4][B]Now do your math:


1. Overall with = 10"
2. Back-spacing = 6.5"

3. Take the overall with and divide it into 2 (which in this case = 5")
4. Subtract this number (5") from the Back-spacing number (6.5")

5. This = 1.5"
6. Now convert 1.5" into MM and you have your offset (1.5" = 38mm)!

So this wheel is 20X9  ET:38[/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=4][B]That's all for tonight guys. I will post more info over the next few days![/B][/SIZE] :shrug:

i have a question, i have a reverse rolled lip on a 2 pc wheel. my wheel repair shop says they cant fix some of bent on the lip cause the outter lip is rolled and it hallow on the inside. therefore machining it makes it really hard and has a chance to put a hole in it. how would one go fixing this problem?

[SIZE=5][B]Going from Reverse Lips (Flat) to Step Lips..or vise-versa!!![/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][B]If you have a 19" multi-piece wheel with reverse lips (Flat), 
in most cases it is possible to use the center face in a set of Step Lips (standard lips).  
This will change the diameter of your wheel from 19" to 20" 
(always add an inch to your current diameter when re-barreling wheels centers from Reverse lips (flat) to Step lips (standard).
You can also change from Step Lips to Reverse lips, which will make your wheel diameter and inch less....so 20" wheels with Step Lips would become 19" wheels with Reverse Lips (Flat).

NOTE: Sometimes precision machining and milling is required in order to make a Center face from a Reverse Lip (Flat)
 set-up drop into a Step Lip (standard) set-up!

Below is a picture of the same center. The Reverse Lip (Flat lip) wheel is 19"
and the Step Lip wheel is 20"...but again, the centers are the same![/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212456.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212504.jpg[/IMG]

[QUOTE=( . )_( . );411677]i have a question, i have a reverse rolled lip on a 2 pc wheel. my wheel repair shop says they cant fix some of bent on the lip cause the outter lip is rolled and it hallow on the inside. therefore machining it makes it really hard and has a chance to put a hole in it. how would one go fixing this problem?[/QUOTE]


If it's bent that bad, you will need to do one of the following:

1. Replace the whole wheel if it's a welded 2 piece wheel.
2. Replace the one piece Barrel if it's a bolt together 2 piece wheel.

If the bend is minor...save yourself some money and duct tape the lip where it's bent...and get medieval on it with a rubber mallet.

Another option is, if you know a wheel repair shop with a hydraulic wheel truing machine, let them see if they can roll the bend out (it wont take the bend out of the inner roll if it's bent, but it will roll the visible side to where its straight). It might not be possible with step lips...and they usually scar the finish from the machine a bit. If it's aluminum, you can sand and buff it out...but if it's chrome, the finish will probably crack where the bend is!

Awesome thread..! i was wondering if you would kind enough to share your vast knowledge as i have several questions in mind:

- Have you ever done black chrome outer finished? What are the challenges / risk for this kind of finish?

- Which one is more challenging to do black chrome finish to the center or the outer lips? i know they are different in surface area and curvature

I saw the gold finished outer in this thread, looks striking! is it chrome lips with gold candy paint or gold plated ? in my country there were guys do gold plating to their wheels - used electro plating or so called

Lastly, regarding step lip slanted, what is the biggest available for forged outer? I was looking for 24" wheels but couldnt be realised. I was thinking if this possible for my next project

Thanks a lot for your time on this.. appreciate it a lot

Cheers

Great thread!!!

Great stuff! Cant wait for more info

wow, great thread!!!

Keep em comming!!! very informative!

Got a question for u. Once u get lips repolished, what do u use to keep the shine on them? I want the anodize clear coat from work. But once it gets repolished, the wheel gets dull after a while. Any solutions for it? Thanks

I have seen your work on MBworld and it is awesome.

Welcome to VSC.  Awesome information!!

awesome!!

I am going to link so many ppl with questions to this thread, lol.  Thanks for posting up!

Great info, should sticky

[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;412061]Great info, should sticky[/QUOTE]
+1 Fo'sho!

Awesome thread..! i was wondering if you would kind enough to share your vast knowledge as i have several questions in mind:
[SIZE=2]- Have you ever done black chrome outer finished? What are the challenges / risk for this kind of finish? [/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][B]Yes, I have dealt with black chrome finishes, but it just doesn't hold up here in the northeast (the weather is too harsh). It starts to discolor after a short while. Now I just use a  Black metallic powder coating technique over polished or chrome. Gives  the same effect, but is much more durable![/B][/SIZE] 

- Which one is more challenging to do black chrome finish to the center or the outer lips? i know they are different in surface area and curvature

[SIZE=3][B]Neither is more challenging, they both coat the same![/B][/SIZE]

I saw the gold finished outer in this thread, looks striking! is it chrome lips with gold candy paint or gold plated ? in my country there were guys do gold plating to their wheels - used electro plating or so called

[SIZE=3][B]I'm not sure which one your talking about?[/B][/SIZE]

Lastly, regarding step lip slanted, what is the biggest available for forged outer? I was looking for 24" wheels but couldnt be realised. I was thinking if this possible for my next project

[SIZE=3][B]The biggest that I know to be in steady production is a 22" Standard lip![/B][/SIZE]

Thanks a lot for your time on this.. appreciate it a lot

[SIZE=3][B]You welcome!![/B][/SIZE]

Got a question for u. Once u get lips repolished, what do u use to keep the shine on them? I want the anodize clear coat from work. But once it gets repolished, the wheel gets dull after a while. Any solutions for it? Thanks


[SIZE=3][B]I never clear coat polished lips, because as long as they are raw...you can buff them back too a mirror finish with a buffer..or just some straight up muscle..LOL!!

When a lip has a clear coating, all your doing is polishing the finish...not the actual aluminum!!!

The problem with anodized lips is....you can polish the clear off, and once the clear  coating is gone...you also begin to polish the anodizing off. The anodizing guru I deal with explained the process to me, and the best aluminum to anodize is forged or billet...which wheel lips are neither (so they will fade or tarnish quickly without some sort of coating)!

If you really must have anodized lips, I would either clear them with clear powder coating which is much more durable than the spray on type of clear (but you would have to have them anodized, and then powder coated...because you cant powder coat over paint or clear coating) ....and then just clean them with soap and water.......or, you could do a candy powder coat color over polished and get the same look (actually better IMO).[/B][/SIZE]

[QUOTE=AME_VIP;411960]I have seen your work on MBworld and it is awesome.

Welcome to VSC.  Awesome information!![/QUOTE]

[SIZE=3][B]
Thank you very much![/B][/SIZE] =)

Thank you for sharing and welcome

thanks for the reply. do u know what Work uses on their lips? they stay shiny all the time. all i need to do is wash them with soap and water and it shines like new again

its a anodized finish.

awesome thread...learning a lot from this thread!
 
i actually got your contact info this past weekend from someone who had their wheels redone by you. i look fwd to working with you as well.

thanks for the thread B.Gorman.  Great info here.  Soon there will be more build your own wheel kits out there.

First thread I've ever rated 5 stars. Thanks!

Thread of the year haha

[SIZE=4][B]Stripping Chrome Off Aluminum or De-Chroming wheel parts!!![/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=4][B]Chrome Wheel Faces[/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20110326_045728.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0931.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=4][B]De-Chromed Wheel Faces[/B][/SIZE]

[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20110604_114023.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20110204_154300.jpg[/IMG]
[SIZE=2][B]OK, so your favorite set of wheels or a used set your looking to buy has chrome pitting, peeling, or flaking off (or maybe just a little rash on those chrome lips...from the wife driving your car...LOL)!

You have 3 options:

1. If your a Baller and money is no object, just buy some new wheels...and remember to hit me up and I'll buy your old cool trashed wheels for cheap...really cheap...LOL!!!!

2. Send them out to a shop and get the parts Re-Chromed!

3. Strip the Chrome off and get them polished or powder coated!!!


There is NO easy way to remove Chrome from wheel parts!

Sandblasting doesn't work well and can harm the surface of the part under the Chrome!


Grinding it off with a grinder will result in uneven surface (It will look like crap..LOL)

Muriatic acid will take the chrome off, but not the Nickel...which is the shiny coating you see!
Also, it will not remove the copper under the nickel!!!

If you want chrome (nickel and copper) removed from aluminum, 
and want them bare metal again...the best way I know how is
to send it to a chrome shop and have them chemically strip them!!!
They will use Nitric acid which will remove the nickel and copper without
without attacking the aluminum! 
This is not a DIY job...Nitric acid stinks, makes a big yellow cloud when
your stripping, and also needs to be professionally disposed of (which isn't cheap)!

Oh yeah...and for those that think you can powder coat over flaking or peeling
chrome...think again!!!! It will still flake..and the chrome and powder will
come off sooner, not later (It is however safe in most cases to powder coat over new chrome parts, or chrome that is in good shape)!!! 
[/B][/SIZE]
[SIZE=4][B]Once the parts are stripped correctly!
[/B][/SIZE]
[SIZE=2][B]If you plan on painting them or powder coating them, make sure you
heat them up to 200 degrees for about a 1/2 hour before you do
anything to them! What this does is allow the chemicals to bake out and
any gasses that are in the aluminum to come out too!

If you don't do this...the parts will usually do either or both of the following:

1. If powder coated or painted, once they are cured, the chemicals will begin 
to slowly leach out and leave dark spots in the coating. These spots can usually
be buffed out, but will keep coming back!

2. If powder coated, the chemical in the aluminum can outgas during the baking
and result in a bubbled or pitted surface![/B][/SIZE]

Great thread and info on the chroming. Never knew that and never had to mess with chrome. I like polish haha..

[QUOTE=B. Gorman;412430][SIZE=2][B]

Sandblasting doesn't work well and can harm the surface of the part under the Chrome!
[/B][/SIZE][SIZE=2][/SIZE][/QUOTE]
So B what about blasting with glass beads or even soda?

[QUOTE=Juzzo;412670]So B what about blasting with glass beads or even soda?[/QUOTE]


[SIZE=2][B]
Neither of those work either (they are less abrasive than sand). Even if they did work....it would literally take forever to blast them off!!![/B][/SIZE] :sad:

[SIZE=5][B]2 Piece Welded Wheel Re-barreling info:[/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=2][B]2 piece welded wheels can be Re-barreled in some circumstances!

The wheel center needs to be cut out, and re-welded back in place![/B][B]
This is not a DIY type of job, because it requires a special jig (to  hold the wheel and the center in place) and a good TIG welder set up  too  for this type of application.

I know a few high dollar machine shop that can handle this, and I know Iforged offers [/B][B]
this service for their wheels (I'm not sure if they would do some other mfg's wheels...for spite sake or liability reasons)

I personally wouldn't do it, or have it done for someone, because of the risks involved if it's not done[/B][B]
almost perfectly (vibration, wheel coming apart, or the weld cracking).
[/B][/SIZE]    
On another note....if you need to get it done...then I would recommend  getting it done by the original wheel mfg (if they offer that service),  because then if anything does happen, the liability falls on them as the  mfg!

Sent you a PM. Please let me know if you did not receive it. Thanks!

I have a set of work schwert sc1, 2 pc wheel face welded to the barrel. would it be possible to make the front go from: 19x9 +24 to a: 19x10.5 +22?

What would the process be like in terms of safety and strength of the wheel with the modification?

As funny as this sounds I'm looking for 12inch barrels.If anyone has a lead PM me pls.

[QUOTE=stunner88;414118]I have a set of work schwert sc1, 2 pc wheel face welded to the barrel. would it be possible to make the front go from: 19x9 +24 to a: 19x10.5 +22?

What would the process be like in terms of safety and strength of the wheel with the modification?[/QUOTE]

[B]
I would recommend sending it back to work to get that done (if they will do it)! It can be done, you would just need a 10.5" barrel (which they have), and it would have to be cut-out and rewelded into the new barrel! If Work would do it, I wouldn't worry about safety or strength...it should be good to go![/B] =)

[QUOTE=AlleyKat;414119]As funny as this sounds I'm looking for 12inch barrels.If anyone has a lead PM me pls.[/QUOTE]


[B]
12" tall or wide?  [/B]

[QUOTE=B. Gorman;414144][B]
12" tall or wide?  [/B][/QUOTE]

Tall 

I've found 10 and 13 so far.I know 12" exist just haven't ran into them.

Hey man, who would you recommend to buy a pair of Weds lips from?

They don't have to be weds but they need to match the style of the lip.

why reweld it? why not just make it a bolt on two piece?

what is the best silicone to use when resealing? I've had to reseal 2 of my 4 wheels twice so far due to air leaking. I tried sealing it two different ways also; one was assemble all three pieces and sealing the two halves and the other was laying a bead of silicone above the bolt holes and putting the other halve on top and then assemble. I've tried clear and black rtv silicone. Need some expert advice.

[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;414347]why reweld it? why not just make it a bolt on two piece?[/QUOTE]

You'd need to add the lips all the way around to the inside of the barrels, and drill the bolt holes. How many bolts do you wanna use? Will the boltholes alter the structural integrity of the spokes?
It's a lot of work... Probably best for them if they just re-weld the center back to the barrels instead of redesigning the entire face so you can bolt it to the barrels.

You will be seeing my wheels soon, I have some ideas, but havent decided yet. And you are not that far from me :biggthumpup:

[QUOTE=phillygs3;415541]You will be seeing my wheels soon, I have some ideas, but havent decided yet. And you are not that far from me :biggthumpup:[/QUOTE]
 
 
Forget the wheels....I wanna see the car...LOL!!! :slap:

[QUOTE=lunek;415374]what is the best silicone to use when resealing? I've had to reseal 2 of my 4 wheels twice so far due to air leaking. I tried sealing it two different ways also; one was assemble all three pieces and sealing the two halves and the other was laying a bead of silicone above the bolt holes and putting the other halve on top and then assemble. I've tried clear and black rtv silicone. Need some expert advice.[/QUOTE]
 
DOW 733 (clear) If properly cleaned and torqued....you should only have to put a 1/2" bead around the seam (not in the middle like a sandwich)!!! :runcoold:

^ best place to purchase?

The best place to get work  lips.....is from work (unless your changing all 4 lips). If Your changing all 4 lips, you can get them from any place that sources lips.

I asked about weds and the silicone lol

[QUOTE=4DGS;415631]I asked about weds and the silicone lol[/QUOTE]
 
 
That goes for WORK lips or WEDS lips!!!
 
The adhesive silicone can be bought at any industrial supply store (online or local). Just google the it, and you can find it! :biggthumpup:

Any update B on mine?

i can vouch for B...I drove my ass to his place and saw him murder my Scaras lol..it was scary..but it came out with an even better Scara!...true 3 pc! haha...Iv been giving away his info ever since....guy is great and very knowledgeable..!...B put up the pictures of my visit! haha

[QUOTE=rustyP;415382]You'd need to add the lips all the way around to the inside of the barrels, and drill the bolt holes. How many bolts do you wanna use? Will the boltholes alter the structural integrity of the spokes?
It's a lot of work... Probably best for them if they just re-weld the center back to the barrels instead of redesigning the entire face so you can bolt it to the barrels.[/QUOTE]

I got so many bolts in my wheels I could build a titanic with them

What size would you say these are?

Owners says 10.5 and 11.5 the rears look like an 11.5 but the fronts look like and 10 tops. No?

Maybe just the photo?

front
[IMG]http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb314/blainangus/2011-10-10_22-49-53_8.jpg[/IMG]

rear
[IMG]http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb314/blainangus/2011-10-10_22-50-47_960.jpg[/IMG]

Can you do SSR wheels?  Would like to rebarrel my rears at some point.

[QUOTE=4DGS;416524]What size would you say these are?

Owners says 10.5 and 11.5 the rears look like an 11.5 but the fronts look like and 10 tops. No?



[/QUOTE]


[B]Answered you in a PM!!![/B]

Thank you! got some better photos and pulled the trigger.

Hope the photo didn't deceive me lol

thank you to simple wheel werks for never answering your phone! (they built them)

How about best removing paint off of forged wheel faces without ruining them... sand blasting or chemical stripping?

Depends if they are painted or powder coated!

If it's just paint, then media blast works fine (not sand, because it's too harsh)...like aluminum-oxide, walnut shells,or plasti-grit!


If it's powder coating, then use a chemical to strip. I use Benco B-17!

I think beleive they are painted because on one face there is like a chip on the color and i can see the white primer on the bottom. Hmmm i might have to call around town.

If you're 100% on going for it and want to tell if it's paint or Powder, get some sandpaper, like 400 grit and give it a bit of a scuff, if you can get through it, then it's paint, powder will take some solid sanding to go through.

^^^ Ok im going to give it a try and see how it goes.


BTW.. I need help figuring out if my bolt is a M6/M7. I don't know much about the 3 piece wheel barrel bolts. I took some pictures of me measuring the bolts and i was trying to see if anyone can point me to the right direction on what rebarreling bolt to get. 

[url]http://www.flickr.com/photos/11190860@N07/[/url]

They asked me if its M6 or M7.... soo idk.

The Avus wheel bolts in your pics are M8's! They also have a security head, so they will be a hassle to toque (unless you have the socket tool that fits the head)!

Thanks! Im totally going with new bolts. I don't have the key head for it and im not dishing no $400 just to have it made. It was a bitch to remove because i had to use a special snapon tool just to hold them still while i took them apart. Just that 1 wheel took 45mins or so smh. Im going to get new bolts.

you sir B. Gorman are the man...i been in the wheel industry for a min...selling nothing really in the manufacturing but ive learned alot from this thread!

B. Gorman,
 
I sent you a PM!

Thank you for the compliments guys!!! =)

this is good stuff bro! just bought me a set of 3pc works so i'll be takin the faces off for some powdercoating soon enough. very informative ish!!

How is it that my thread is "Sticky"...but I still can't edit my posts and am not a full member yet? (I'm just sayin)!! LOL,LOL,LOL!!!

LOL

because this is vipstylecars.com, not wheelrebuilding.com? jus' sayin'...

[SIZE=7][B]Go Hard or Go Home!!![/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][B]B. Gorman 2 piece Welded to 2-3 piece bolt in conversion!!![/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=2][B]Step 1. Iforged Trial 2 piece welded wheel (Bolts are for looks only)!!![/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110425_210827.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110425_210836.jpg[/IMG]
[SIZE=2][B]Notice the weld around the face!!![/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110425_210843.jpg[/IMG]
[SIZE=2][B]
Step 2. Get MEDIEVAL and get the centers out...but don't mess em up..LOL!![/B][/SIZE]

[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110617_154414.jpg[/IMG]
[SIZE=2][B]This = Scrap Money = Lunch money [/B][/SIZE]!!
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110617_154419.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=2][B]Step 3. Centers need to be "PROFESSIONALLY" milled down and flanged by machine shop![/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110628_145139.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110628_145155.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110628_145148.jpg[/IMG]

[SIZE=2][B]Step 4. Center is ready to be bolted into a 1 piece barrel or into an inner and outer lip (for a 3 piece combination) . Here it is inserted in a new 1 piece barrel (would have to be bolted and torqued in)!!! [/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110628_145126.jpg[/IMG]
[B]
[SIZE=2]Finished Product: Center Stripped and Polished!
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120124_142949.jpg[/IMG]

Notice the machining. Properly Milled and flanged!
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120124_143024.jpg[/IMG]

Center inserted in a true 3 piece set up!
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120124_143152.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120124_143224.jpg[/IMG]

Results: Center that can be modified to infinite sizes and offsets 
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120124_143048.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120124_143128.jpg[/IMG]

[/SIZE][/B]

well done sir.

:werd2:

Good work B. Gorman![URL="http://www.vipstylecars.com/forums/member.php?u=24510"][/URL]

Thanks guys! That conversion was more of an act of need than desire..LOL,LOL,LOL!!! I bought them from a guy in AZ who sent me a couple pics and told me they were 3 piece (he didn't know any better, just seen the bolts and heard that iforged were 3 piece wheels)! So when I opened the boxes and turned them over....I realized they were the 2 piece welded kind!! :pat:

Soooooo me being the wheel-ologist that I am...I decided that this lemon would become lemonade! :runcoold:

question? with 2pc wheels im looking at 19x8.5 and 9.5, whats the biggest i can relip to? and same goes for 19x10. looking at all the used wheels i see their all 8.5s and 9.5s, and the few new wheels i really like the biggest is a 10'', when ideally id like an 11'' for rear.

If they are 2-piece wheels in which the centers can be unbolted from the barrel....you can re-barrel them to be as wide as you like for the most part (that is if you use inner and outers and make them 3 piece). 

If they are 2-piece wheels in which the centers are welded in.....they can be cut-out and re-welded into different barrels (one piece) that are wider ect. (but this type of conversion takes the correct jig, welding, and machining equipment to do the job correctly and safely.....and only a few places are set up to do this).

Great thread.....Thanks for all the info

on a set of work bersaglios......any idea which style tpms bracket/adapter would work better with infiniti style sensors?

[SIZE=5][B]TPMS Installation on Reverse Inner Barrels![/B][/SIZE]



I would tap (drill a hole)  the drop-in groove on the inner barrel, and insert tpms sensor there!


[SIZE=2][B]Here is where you Tap the barrel (but make sure you drill the hole on the flat surface and not on thr curve, so it will still seal)!
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120130_004452.jpg[/IMG]

Here is how it will look and how the sensor should lay in the groove!
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120130_004512.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120130_004620.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120130_004604.jpg[/IMG]

Here is how it will look where the sensor stem comes though on the inside of the wheel!
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20120130_004415.jpg[/IMG]
[/B][/SIZE]

ok thx for the info, I emailed Weds on a set they have and they are welded, for you to do 2 wheels 19x10 and bring them to a 19x11 or 12, what can I do for lip sizes? and shoot me a pm on cost. thanks!!!

[QUOTE=B. Gorman;435028]If they are 2-piece wheels in which the centers can be unbolted from the barrel....you can re-barrel them to be as wide as you like for the most part (that is if you use inner and outers and make them 3 piece). 

If they are 2-piece wheels in which the centers are welded in.....they can be cut-out and re-welded into different barrels (one piece) that are wider ect. (but this type of conversion takes the correct jig, welding, and machining equipment to do the job correctly and safely.....and only a few places are set up to do this).[/QUOTE]

Sorry Bro.....I'm not messing with 2 Piece welded wheels...especially if they are cast centers....just not worth it, and it would cost way too much in machine work!!! If you really want them, ask weds if they can rebarrel them, because I know that they are set up and have the proper equipment to do it...and warranty it too!

lol kk alright one last question I swear haha 3pc welded? touch those? or no

2 piece welded and 3 piece welded wheels are easy to rebarrel as long as the center has sufficient through bolt hole around the flange and understand that the old welded barrels are scrapped in the process of removing the centers in the center was indeed welded in. If it was bolted in, you can keep the old barrels and they won't be damaged at all (barrels that are welded at the seam)!

so would u be able to work on a 3pc welded then? 
 
[QUOTE=B. Gorman;435299]2 piece welded and 3 piece welded wheels are easy to rebarrel as long as the center has sufficient through bolt hole around the flange and understand that the old welded barrels are scrapped in the process of removing the centers in the center was indeed welded in. If it was bolted in, you can keep the old barrels and they won't be damaged at all (barrels that are welded at the seam)![/QUOTE]

yo B! Do you do any machine face finish on wheels and Also re-chroming..?

Saw on his facebook that he said he's not doing chrome ever again lol

[SIZE=2][B]Yeah....I stopped getting lips and faces chromed...just too much hassle. I'm up here in the northeast, and there's only a few good chrome shops...and they don't like to warranty work on wheels, because of the weather and chemicals they use on the roads up here!! It also can take long to get it done too.....so I just rather not deal with it!

Besides....I like working with polished parts better!! No pealing, No pitting (unless you never clean them, end even then, it can be sanded and buffed back like new), No flaking or lifting, No discoloration.......and even if you get a lil rash...it can be ground out and repolished!! I also do a lot of custom powder coating on my wheel builds...and chrome doesn't always hold up during the baking process, but polished does!!![/B][/SIZE] 
[SIZE=3][B]
Plus my polisher handles his business...makes it look like chrome anyway!!![/B][/SIZE]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/vuthy2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/vuthy1.jpg[/IMG]

Great info,  thanks for sharing.

The work of B.Gorman...perhaps one of his last chrome setups he's built.  It's a collectors item...true story.

[IMG]http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k76/moog177/Mobile%20uploads/IMAG1366-1-1.jpg[/IMG]

damn, super clean. futura do work.

ha ha - some b.gorman weds 1 off chrishna coming soon - yeah buddy - definitely not chrome

my work faces are chrome for now, but will be stripped and powdercoated when i do my next set of tires. any exact source for some nice wheel hardware other than just matching what i got to fastener shops?

I have a set of work meisters that are 2 piece forged which need lip repair from curb rash and a bend . I'd like to go with more aggressive offsets as well if possible(currently 19 x 9 +26 and 19 x 10 +30).

Reading thru this thread am I right by assuming im f#%*d?

I don't think he is taking on any new projects unless he physically has the parts in hand. He has a lot of parts in currently but if the spec is too crazy. Don't be surprised if he tells you no.

i have a question. what kind of silicone do i use when putting the wheel back together?

whats the torque value for the faces to the barrel?

[QUOTE=LiLS;450238]whats the torque value for the faces to the barrel?[/QUOTE]

[SIZE=2][B]28-30lbs with through bolts and 15-20lbs with blind bolts into faces![/B][/SIZE]


[QUOTE=ervizzzle;448940]i have a question. what kind of silicone do i use when putting the wheel back together?[/QUOTE]

[SIZE=2][B]DOW 733[/B][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][/SIZE]

and those were the 2 questions i needed answers to when i take my bersaglios apart :) thankee

if only we can get the lips directly from manufacutre

Wheels resizing

Basically I have a 11 in wide wheel and want to take it down to a 10.5", I m finding i need more inner clearance to increase neg* camber.

How ever the fronts I would like to increase the lip size and lower the offset

I am guessing I would have to order new barrels but probably need to know the sizes to order?

Wheel faces are black and I would like to get them to a brushed silver look. Thoughts?

where can i buy the adhesive for the barrels?

[QUOTE=B. Gorman;411666][SIZE=5][B]Easy Way to Measure Wheel Offset:[/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][B]
1. Place wheel face down.[/B][/SIZE]
[URL="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212701.jpg"][IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212701.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[SIZE=3][B]
2. Measure the width of the wheel from Edge to Edge. 
(this is a 9" wheel, but is 10" from edge to edge, so use 10" for offset purposes!)[/B][/SIZE] 
[URL="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212855.jpg"][IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212855.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[SIZE=3][B]3. Place a straight edge across the outermost part of the inner Edge
 (on top of the wheel)

4. Measure from the hub pad (the part that sits against your rotors)
 to the bottom of the straight edge).
On this wheel, it is 6.5" from the Hub Pad to the top of the wheel (or bottom of the straight edge)[/B][/SIZE]

[SIZE=3][B]This is called your BACK-SPACING[/B][/SIZE]
[URL="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212951.jpg"][IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_212951.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL="http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_213032.jpg"][IMG]http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m39/billkw/Wheel%20Building/IMG_20110917_213032.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[SIZE=4][B]Now do your math:


1. Overall with = 10"
2. Back-spacing = 6.5"

3. Take the overall with and divide it into 2 (which in this case = 5")
4. Subtract this number (5") from the Back-spacing number (6.5")

5. This = 1.5"
6. Now convert 1.5" into MM and you have your offset (1.5" = 38mm)!

So this wheel is 20X9  ET:38[/B][/SIZE][/QUOTE]

Ummm, Quick note on this.
I've been rebuilding and fitting custom wheels, including selling&fitting for Fikse and Kinesis when they were their own companies, for a long time and this isn't quite right.

Offset is a measurement based off the actual wheel width and not the overall wheel width.

The overall width is used to give you the distance from the hub to the back of the barrel, which is the backspacing, and is important to the inside fitment to shocks/knuckles and even the frame or body at lock. The "frontspacing" is measured to the exact same point on the hub as back spacing, except from the front lip. It is probably one of the most important numbers to be aware of if you are going for maximum outter lip depth for crazy gangster camber VIPs.

The offset is from centreline of the wheel when measured between the inside of the bead walls, which is the advertised wheel width, to the hub face. Everything you said is correct except for the wheel width relation to offset.

As an addition:
It is important to know how these numbers relate to each other for purposes of extreme fitment due to differing lip thicknesses at the bead walls. I have seen lips as thin as 5mm at the wall on some cheap cast wheels and as thick as 3/4" on rolled lip multi-piece wheels, even differing lip thicknesses on the same set of wheels due to differing construction on the inside and outside lips, not to mention the origin of lips if they have ever been replaced. if you are pushing fitments to the absolute max, you may have found through trial and error that one wheel with XXet offset fits inside perfectly while another wheel with the same XXet offset either hits something or there is more room to add more width. this is the difference and relation between offset and backspacing and why they use differing width measurements.

To get perfect fitments, you need to account for these numbers differently and actually measure the wheels yourself to be 100% sure if you are building or buying wheels.

This is the same form I used to fill out when spec'ing wheels for customers wanting custom fit Fikse wheels. I even used it to jot down measurements when measuring up for Kinesis wheels, although they didn't like it when I accidentally sent it in! ;) :)
[URL="http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/WheelOffset2.gif"][IMG]http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/WheelOffset2.gif[/IMG][/URL]

BA article love the info.. Helped with my choice of wheels

@ Shmee

Sorry Bro....but you are seriously mistaken. Both the offset and back spacing are determined by the overall width of the wheel...not the bead seat (the mfg's wheel width). I've been meaning to make a video...but had unexpected surgery, and am almost back to 100% now....so hopefully, I will post it in this thread soon.

I understand that a lot of the charts show the width from bead seat to bead seat (like the one you posted)....but that just isn't the case...at least not in the past few years. If you don't believe me....take and wheel with the mfg's offset stamped on the back, and try to measure it the way your saying....and I can almost guarantee that the offset you come up with will be different from the mfg's stamped offset. Then do it the way I said...and you number will be right there.

Heck...anybody that has a wheel, and straight edge, a tape measure, and a calculator laying around can try it......then chime in!!!

B

I've always measured from edge to edge for the "overall" width and the math works out to the T.

B,
i have and a lot. 

The vast majority of wheels I have measured are still measuring from bead-seat to bead-seat, with the offset measured in relation to that number. 
Very rarely have i come across a wheel where it was even close.
In fact I just measured up a set of Trafficstars a few weeks ago and a couple of sets of cast wheels and they followed the rules I suggested. The wheel has to be measured bead-seat to bead-seat because that's how tires are measured for rim size. Unless there is some new movement to the contrary, wheel widths and offsets are like I suggested.

Selling someone a wheel based on the overall width is false advertising and potentially dangerous. Suddenly, tires installed are no longer the right size for that given wheel based on such measurements.

I'm not saying that it's not possible to get similar or even identical numbers with your method, just thats not how it works all the time.

Could be dependent on manufacturer, my lowenharts measure overall wheel width as 11in and the sticker notes 11in from lowenhart.
if i did it from bead seat to seat it would be 10in.
same as others in my area that have done the same method as b.gorman suggested.

does this work?

Does what work?

Bumping an old thread.  Where is the best place to buy inner and outer barrels?

So I tried figuring out my offset on my wheels but on my 20x10 it came out to a +32 and on my 20x8.5 it came out to +12. Idk if thats right since my 8.5 sits way more sunk in and has less lip. Unless its the 1.5" difference that makes the difference on lip size. Anyone feel free to chime in.

B. you still in business?

I tried to post this months ago but every time i did, it booted me out and locked this site out... no idea why, but that was the reason for my last post. Anyways.....



[quote]Just measured up 2 sets of 3pc wheels and to the 10th of a mm, my method is 100% accurate and your method is accurate within 2-4mm.
 
BS =/= offset
 
Your method works out pretty close, however it does not account for differing lip thickness differences due to design/construction front to back. The lip thickness difference is due to the differing designs you mention as most wheels do not use a reverse rolled lip on the back.
 
The 2 sets of wheels I just measured up, had lip thickness differences of 2-5mm front to back that changes the offset by 1-2.5mm, not a lot in most cases unless you are pushing your fitment that close. 
 
perfect example, a set of Leon Hardiritt Ordens i just measured.
19x11 32et & BS = 7.25 * 25.4 = 184.15mm
overall width of 11 7/8
 
by my math:
11" *25.4mm = 279.4mm width /2 (for wheel centerline) = 139.7 +32et = 171.7mm + 12.7 lip thickness(1/2" eyeballed, it was actually a C-hair smaller than a 1/2") = 184.4mm
 
 
by your math:
11.875" * 25.4mm = 301.625/2 = 150.8125 + 32et = 182.8125"
 
so which one is closer?
 
sure, it's the difference between 1.3 and 0.2mm... and realistically it's splitting hairs on these and many wheels but on wheels where there is a big difference in lip thicknesses, that number gets bigger and bigger. i've seen variation of 3/8" in lip thickness... that's almost 10mm your math puts you out by...
 
If you do it my way and get some crazy number, it's because you didn't factor in the lip thickness... or you just messed up your calculations at some point.
 
I build/built wheels to exacting fitments and I assure you, my math and my method is DEAD ON![/quote]

I have a question I have a set of Riverside MAE wheels im guessing that has been made into true 3 piece wheels.  My question is are the factory 20 bolt sufficient enough or should i have them drilled to fit all 40 holes that are in the barrels/lips?

This is really good info! hopefully I can keep my Work emitz and just rebuild them to my liking

[QUOTE=RYU007;491479]Bumping an old thread. Where is the best place to buy inner and outer barrels?[/QUOTE]

L&B forged - [URL]http://www.lbforgedwheels.com/[/URL]

Anyone know how I take these apart? Auto Couture Malice V wheels. They're 20x8.5f and 20x11r (measured from bead seat to bead seat).  I want to make them a square setup, something like 20x12. 20x4 inner and 20x8 outer. I've taken a few multi peace wheels apart before but these Auto Couture don't have your typical bolt. Before I try using an impact on the nuts I want to make sure I do not damage any of the bolts.

I've never seen that before! Are they caps? you try removing it to get to the bolt?