F50 General wonderment, and things to consider

OK, so I took some measurements today of the ride height.

Front from ground to center fender edge is 24.4 and some change
Rear is 25.5

Measuring from ground to lower edge of back door is 2.5 inches higher than the front. 

So IF I were to drop the back down an inch. the fender gap would be the same. However, if i were to drop it a full 2.5 inches and radius the rear fender 2.5 inches rather than 1 inch to close the all around gap to be even. I would get rid of the rake, and the front arch would be equal to the rear arch.

I do not have much room to spare to even drop it much in the back. Unless I do the following: raise engine an inch, which would raise the headers, and piping closer to the body, and shave down the sub frame bushings which would lower the car a quarter inch all around.

Now my question! Since I am going for ultimate low status (gonna win that BLACK 3 Trophy next year with out going to the event, you can mail it to me haha)

I would ultimately have to re barrel the wheels to a 20in from a 19, 235 35, then go for a 235 35 20. Which I do not know if many people even go that route more so a 30 series i believe. Doing so would not only drop the car when I radius it 2.5 inches and drop it 2.5 in the back but maintaining the underside height and front height so to speak, right now is tucking a little bit of tire on.

I plan on cups to raise the car to go over bumps and crowns on roads and some bs construction. But do not want to go full air since i want the tolerances to be very close on the front and back. I would like when fully compressed while turning you cant get dust between the fender and tire. Which I have no body line on fender so its a bit easier to do since it follows the stretched tire line.

I am just making sure what I am thinking, makes sense. I know I will run out of frame rail and floor pan room before I bottom out on subframe and exhaust and pan.

I guess this is more of a ramble on than what the title says.

just go 18s...  actually I don't know what I'm talking about...  and I had no idea what you just said...   I read a couple lines and got lost..

Saying that to even out the rake i have to drop it 2.5 inches. which will tuck the wheel in back. if i radius it 2.5 higher in back with it lowered that much the front fender will be equal to the rear. but doing this keeping the stock height I would have to go bigger wheels and tire. and maintain the same underside clearance but evening the car out as far as fender height and rake wise

i got what you said..... and all i have to say is... DO IT!

Take this thread of Wonderment, slap it between two slices of Wonderbread, and we'll have a Wonderthread!

Hahaha but on the real, it sounds like you want to make everything uniform, the ride height, the rake, and the fender arches. Its the same style I prefer. I say go for it!!!!

:biggthumpup:

I like where your head is at, although I'm not sure what your question was... you're plan sounds good. 

Raising the engine shouldn't be too hard. However, I would venture to guess you'll need to get some custom exhaust piping made since the header angle will change once raised. Having the exhaust that high is no big deal especially with a n/a car and smaller piping. 

OR you could do what I did and use this:
[img]http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com/catalog/Oval%20Tube.jpg[/img]

Available from this place in 2" and 2.5":
[url]http://drgas.mybisi.com/product/194998/25-Oval-Tubing-and-Bends_1060288.html[/url]

I particularly liked this option because it allowed me to keep a 3" overall diameter (which I needed for the engine) and still get it higher than the oem Q piping.  So at full down my exhaust is still way off the ground. 

If your going to radius the rear you might as well do it all the way, although 2.5" is A LOT! (Take into consideration you would probably be getting into the door at that point $$$).

Kouki: I totally get you, I've been battling with the same problems, although my vision is somewhat different. Biggest mofo in all of this is understanding how all of these little tweaks affect the overall stance and the modding dilemmas that arise from these. It's a shame that I don't have any clue how's the F50's belly/chassis is constructed so can't even offer alternative ways to thinking this... Have you tried Salvia coupled with nitrous-oxide, 'coz it [I]really[/I] helps creating out-of-the-box visions/ideas :giggity:

Oh can't remember, were you planning to kit the F50? 'Cause that way you'd easily get 0.5-1" "lower", so that might help with the underbelly modification. Maybe then all of these drastic measure wouldn't be needed, just the basic hardcore ish =)

haha thanks everyone for the input!

As far as the exhaust goes, all the cats are gone and mufflers except one in the middle back. the pre cats are still on the header, and there is a huge amount of room between the fire wall and the engine and the exhaust believe it or not. why i wanted to turbo it haha.

That piping is something I was thinking of but not sure where to get it til now. thanks! 

And no kit. keeping it all stock height there. I will add different bumpers but the actual factory skirt is where I want to keep it at. Like what Qfour5 has on his.

The radius is kinda weird in a sense that the way it is shaped it will miss the door believe it or not. Cause of how much I pulled the flare. hard to explain but I was surprised how it would miss, and clear! there is a lot of room inside the door when you open it for the "jamb" since all of the inner fender is gone. I would lay frame before it touched. 

But putting 20s on it should theoretically keep it where I am at, lower the back but still have room underside. cause its about an inch and half or so taller total than my 19s with tires. SO i would get a overall more dramatic effect of lowering it when I am not really. Its like faking the funk! haha

I put it out there to see if what i think, and my math is correct.

great example yet, it is on a kit. the bigger wheels allow it to look aggressive with out kit on ground. if it had no kit at all, it would a bit higher. Yet still radiused really high to accommodate the lowered non tuck height 

[IMG]http://i1020.photobucket.com/albums/af321/dirtyl/vipcars/k62.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagames/NFS/speedhunters.com/Images/Dino%20Dalle%20Carbonare/2011/SEPT2011/KOS-P5/IMG_0608.jpg[/IMG]

assuming he is on 20s stepped than 21.

Yeah looks like the fronts and rears are the same size, so I'd also bet on 20's.

What about the front fenders/wheel wells on the F50, is there enough room when slammed w/ 20's (if your gonna rebarrel the front as well) ? And no tucking nor extra camber for you, right? So the question is, would you also have to radius the fronts as well and then you'd need to add that to the rear radius to keep the arches level...  Just a thought:shrug:

why not run a 20 up front with a step lip and 19 in the rear with reverse lip?

20 looks smaller, due to step and rear looks normal because of reverse lip.

But I'm drunk.

[QUOTE=4DGS;414358]why not run a 20 up front with a step lip and 19 in the rear with reverse lip?

20 looks smaller, due to step and rear looks normal because of reverse lip.

But I'm drunk.[/QUOTE]
Can't even picture it in my head, it just sounds soo wrong :slap:

yeah you would have to radius it in the front just a little bit, but that is just to match the look of the arch front and rear. since you are shaping it more to the wheel than just making a fender arch for clearance. You would also have to do this a little bit in the front for turning while being slammed out anyway. but a half inch higher taller wont be as noticeable when the rear arch is 2.5 inches taller. If I get it close to even, than that is fine. 

looks like there is room for a 20 slammed. if not, will make it! haha. I had it at one point where I was tucking tire in front almost to rim, and I would only rub taking a hard turn. so not to bad I should say with zero camber in front. I think if there was more, it would have cleared.. but the tires are hardly stretched so it doesnt match the contour of the fender either

Ahh okay then, good to hear that there's no real problems ahead of that goal.