Weds arrived - my fitment

****Completed pics on page 15****


My Weds Cerberus II 19x9.5 +2 (MID) and 19x11.5 +1 (SLO) arrived today. Hotness. Pics to come.

The only problem is the fronts and my Supra TT calipers. 
Clearance needed = 45mm from spoke to mounting face.
Clearance on fronts = 31mm

Now I have a pair of 15mm bolt on spacers with studs in them. The lugs sit flush to the spacer. However, Weds did not design the wheel with open spaces on the back of the wheel to accomodate the studs that will protrude through ! Only 2 spaces on the back of the wheel in between the holes for the studs. I haven't taken a wheel off to measure the length of the stud that sticks out past the rotor hat but I guess they are about 20mm or so. EDIT: They are 23mm past the rotor.

I have some pairs of 3mm and 5 mm kicking around as well.

A few options I see are
1) Hammer out the studs on the 15mm bolt ons and try to use it as a slip on spacer.
2) Use the 15mm plus the 3 and/or 5mm to clear the studs.
3) Cut off the studs on the car so that they sit flush with the spacer.  I don't want to do this.
4) Purchase 20-25mm bolt on spacers that will make the studs sit deep in the spacer and not interfere with the wheel

I vote for option 3, you can always get new studs at a later time.

Have you also considered hammering out the studs on the spacer and putting longer studs in place of the stock ones?

Are the 15mm spacers hubcentric?

Can you get shorter wheel studs? I think this would be a better solution than just grinding it down IMO.

Thanks for the reply.  Not sure about shorter studs.

Measured the studs and they stick out 23mm

Just tried it with 3mm + 5mm + 15mm bolt on.  It clears.  
This will be ok for temp use.  

Really I need H&R 15mm slip on spacers. None of these spacers are hubcentric that I'm using.

Ok thinking about this some more, my vertex fenders are 25mm larger than stock.
Most aggressive I've seen on stock fenders is workaholic 18x10 +24 on 245. (103mm out from rotor)
At this point with 23mm of spacers I'm 141.65mm from the rotor.   

103 + 25 = 128 (Most agressive setup that will fit.
At 141.65 it will be sticking out of the wide fender 13.65 mm .   I really need to bring the wheels in by running less spacers :(

a few pics I snapped of the fronts. Fitment is going to be a challenge.  Fronts have 4" lip, rears have over 5" of lip (not pictured). Anyone need a pair of 285/30/19 SO3 with 90%+ tread. I won't be using them.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1213.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1212.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1209.jpg[/img]

and it begins!!! I am excited to watch this progress!

-Rick

Yeah it definitely looks you got your work cut out for you the wheels are nice by the way.

TurboTeg - man, you sure got your work cut out for you.  :o

good luck, I'd like to see them on and done with..

Thank god I purchased Vertex wide fenders, it would been a big custom flare otherwise. This will definitely be a lot of work but it will be worth it.  I'm going to get some 245's mounted on the 11.5's on wednesday.  It will go in for paint of the body kit and vertex fender install as well as rear fender modding. After that I will be perfecting the fitment with spacers and camber.

Here are some more calculations I did tonight.

Max wheel outer 103 (stock fender) + 25 (vertex) = 128 mm (Max that the wheel should protrue from the rotor)

No spacer 120.65 mm

15mm spacer 133.65 mm - 15mm slip on and long studs

13mm spacer 131.65 mm - 10 + 3 slip ons and long studs

23mm spacers 141.65 mm - sticks out too far (15 + 5 +3)

[quote=AME_VIP ]
Really I need custom 23mm bolt on spacers. None of these spacers are hubcentric that I'm using.
[/quote]

Fred Goeske at wheeladapter.com can make anything you need. he's fast, and his work is superb. but since wed's center bore is not like any other manufacturer's spec (that i know of), you will need to send him one wheel so he can get it exact. the trickiest part is a center bore that tapers.

Wow, that are some agressive wheels. You did forget the 5th option..........

5)REMOVE the supra calipers and use your original ones, and you can probably use a smaller spacer. 

Just a thought....... 8)

nice wheels cant wait to see the final product

Wow.... that gonna really really nice when you are done.

Whish I could offer some help on the spacer issue, but other than the ideas already mentioned.... i'm not sure 

Wow, that will look insane with all that lip on the front, I can just imagine what is in the back hehe
Gonna be :crazy2: with the fenders

Oh boy the fun continues.

I was suprised to see that the rears came with Bridgestone S03 with 95% tread. But they are 285/30/19. I just called a tire shop that usually stretches for me but they will not attempt 245/35/19 on the 11.5 :(
I think I'll have to stick with the 285 for now. Its a very mild stretch.  

Anyone have some 265/30/19 they want to get rid of? I have some nice 275/30/19 or 245/35/19 for trade ! ha
I don't think its worth me spending the money to switch to 275 Toyo T1S.

I definitely do not want to go back to smaller brakes. Ideally I would like the H&R 15mm slip ons with longer studs. Anyone have those for sale? :)

Thanks for the kind words guys.

Or option 6... have you considered just selling them for profit and getting a set of wheels that will work better? Sure, it's about making the fenders fit the wheels, but your wheels aren't fitting your car (cuz of the calipers, et al)... so maybe get something that fits on the car as is first, then figure the fenders around them...?

ha I thought you might say that.

I don't see getting 15mm H&R spacers as a huge deal.  
Without spacers the front wheels would actually be sunk into the Vertex fenders.

I love these wheels and waited 3 months to get them so I won't be selling them anytime soon even though I could make a profit :)  

Although I sound like I'm complaining in my posts, I'm enjoying the challenge.

[quote=viplife ]
Fred Goeske at wheeladapter.com can make anything you need.  he's fast, and his work is superb.  but since wed's center bore is not like any other manufacturer's spec (that i know of), you will need to send him one wheel so he can get it exact.  the trickiest part is a center bore that tapers.

[/quote]

I just noticed this post. I will explore that option thank you. 
After further calculations custom 13mm spacer would be perfect. 15mm H&R with longer studs otherwise.

I have 15mm spacers mounted now on the front, 12mm would be perfect.  12mm would provide 1-2 mm of brake clearance.   I'm going to buy some Daizen camber bushings which I can add 2deg of neg camber front and rear.

couple more test fitting pictures.  I'm going to raise the rear up a little to drive it to the body shop because the rear fender is basically sitting on the tire.   Rears sticking out 42mm, fronts out 44mm.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1236.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1242.jpg[/img]

Its already looking good cant wait to see it once everything is everything.That rear lip looks incredible!

thanks man. I hope it comes out looking good.  :coolsmiley:

damn...crazy fitment...how wide are the overfenders? or are you going to pull the fuxor outta the rears and throw on the fronts and call it a day?

pretty much. Vertex 25mm front fenders.  I'm gonna need some camber too.
Rears are gonna be heavily modded as rear blister fenders would run over 1200 US.

Still lots of work to do as I'll need to adjust the ride height, install camber bushings, get alignment, etc etc. Wheel fitment is a challenge !

Go another size down in tire width... camber will definitely help.. and let me introduce you to another lesser-known wheel fitment option: mounting pad shaving. Measure the thickness of the mounting pad where the mounting holes are at their smallest diameter (i.e. where the wheel studs go through, before it tapers out to the lug nut conical seat area)... this part of the mounting pad only needs to be about 5-7mm thick (depending on the wheel model), so you can have a machine shop shave down the mounting pad a few mm to bring it down to that... NOW, it gets even more fun... for an extra few more mm of clearance, have your brake rotor hats shaved down a couple mm also... all said and done, doing all this can sometimes gain you up to 10mm, or, depending on the car, even more! This is one of those things that is probably really way beyond what most people will ever want to or think about doing, but when you're going that crazy with your setup, every little bit counts. This isn't an option for you in the front, since you need a certain amount of spoke clearance for the calipers.. but if you got plenty of space between the spokes and calipers in the back, look into shaving shit down

nice wheels!! on my dream car
BTW here's an idea
bn-sports blister widebody
[img]http://www.bn-sports.co.jp/2door/image/3031soarer_blister_r.jpg[/img]

thanks for the advice ! interesting ideas. I have heard of shaving the back pad but never the rotor hat ! hardcore. 

On the rears I only have 2mm of clearance with the S-Lo disc and Supra TT rears :( It is very close.

However do you think its worth the 100 US to mount my 275/30/19 Toyo T1S on the rear instead of the 285?  

[quote=AME_VIP ]
Anyone have some 265/30/19 they want to get rid of? I have some nice 275/30/19 or 245/35/19 for trade ![/quote]Hmm, I do have a set of 265/30/19's that came with my Work's which I wish came with something that would give more stretch on a 9.5. Ah, I'll have to think about it, and I'm going to hold onto them for now. Anyway the wheels look really good. My setup is way conservative compared to that. Can't wait to see the finished product, looks like its going to be awesome.

No problem. Let me know quick though I'm considering getting the Toyo T1S mounted tommorrow morning now.  I have some Pirelli Pzero 245/35/19 that would definitely be more of a stretch.

The BN sport is badass but you don't see it often because its VERY expensive. Fenders alone I was quoted 800 US for the rear wide fenders not to mention shipping/taxes/duty etc.

Oh ok, sorry man, I'll be holding onto the Toyo 265/35's I have on now. If you have those 245/35's still available in the future after I find a shop who's willing to mount a tire that size, I'll keep in touch.

sounds good :)

so what do you think one ton? stretch the toyo T1S 275/30/19?

going down one step in width is not bad idea at this point

ok thanks.  I hope it provides a litle more stretch for the money.

Got the Toyo T1S mounted today.  :smitten: Big thanks to oneton for the advice !
19x11.5 with Toyo T1S 275/30/19.  

First tire shop I went to said that 275 can go on a 10" at the biggest ! ha They had stretched a 235/35/17 on 10J and 215/45/17 on 9J in the past but now they are being pansies. I went to another shop that sells dubs to juice monkeys and coke addicts. The kind of place that is so disorganzied the right hand doesn't know what the left hand is doing. No problems :D One person did the stretch without any troubles. Of course I get the usually warning that the bead may pop off and don't curb the wheel yadada.  Go to pay and they charge me just $45 CDN haha (about 35 US)
Awesome. 

pics of course !
here is the before with Bridgestone S03 285/30/19 with very small stretch
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/bridgestone285nostretchfull.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/bridgestone285nostretch.jpg[/img]

New and improved stretched goodness :coolsmiley:

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/2753019t1s19x115b.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/2753019t1s19x115e.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/2753019t1s19x115c.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/2753019t1s19x115d.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/2753019t1s19x115f.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/2753019t1s19x115.jpg[/img]

Lookin' really good AME :coolsmiley:

Yeah I gotta say they look sick too excellent choice.

Damn! Looks awesome! I gotta find a shop daring enough to stretch some tires for me. I don't know about my local ghetto dub shop though, I gotta look around. 

time to test fit on the car again and make note of how much additional clearance you got

REAALLLY nice with the tires on man. so are you changing your name to WEDS_VIP

[quote=One Ton VIP ]
time to test fit on the car again and make note of how much additional clearance you got
[/quote]

Won't my previous meausurements will remain the same correct as I measured from the fender to the lip of the wheel?  This stretch will provide a lot more fender clearance for preventing rubbing I know that much.

A one more topic before it goes under the knife for pull on Thursday.  Where should I ask my body guy to pull the fender too?  The wheel lip is 42mm from the fender. Should I get it pulled even with the lip?  Or maybe 40mm and have the rim poke out a little with the tire under the fender.
What do you guys think? I like a tiny bit of poke personally.

lol at Weds_VIP. AME is fine as it has grown on me ha

[quote=AME_VIP ]


A one more topic before it goes under the knife for pull on Thursday.   Where should I ask my body guy to pull the fender too?   The wheel lip is 42mm from the fender.  Should I get it pulled even with the lip?   Or maybe 40mm and have the rim poke out a little with the tire under the fender.
What do you guys think?  I like a tiny bit of poke personally.

lol at Weds_VIP.  AME is fine as it has grown on me ha
[/quote]

Depends on how low you are planning on riding.
If you are going to slam your ride , get the lip inside the fender.
If its a mild drop or air , let the wheel poke .
Just take into acount suspension travel.

my .02 cents

Thanks for the reply.  
I'm on coilovers and due to suspension design I can go as low as needed.
I want to drive with it as low as possible without the rim hitting the fender when the suspension compresses.   Once the fender lines up with the wheel, I'm hoping that the wheel will go more negative and the wheel will tuck inside the fender under full compression.   

I'm did some more test fitting on the rear today.  I like the 275/30/19 because the tire is smaller.  Even with a big pull I think I'm going to need the Daizen 2deg camber bushings front and rear to make it look right.   These stick out 42mm from the rim to the fender right now.   Even with a big pull the tire is still going to stick out a lot from the view in front and behind.  At least this tire will help out a lot !  

Also, I am reconsidering oneton's thoughts on shaving the back pad, and rotor hat.  On the front I can bring the wheel in about 2-3mm before the caliper interferes. On the rear, the Weds have 15mm of clearance.  The clearance needed is only 10mm.  This means the wheel could be brought in 5mm.  The front and rear back pad thickness from back to the start of the lug taper is 6mm though.  I think a few mm off the front and rear rotor hats would be best.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1284.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1285.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1286.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1287.jpg[/img]

Wow, those tires do make this look much more manageable! I can't wait to see the finished product. BTW- I say pull 40mm. You don't want to pull too much and have the wheel sitting in the fender like a different "famous" SC :2funny:

Thanks. 
nooo I've been compared to drftgirl/emerald ha  :laugh:   

I think after the body work I'll take the rotors off and have the front and rear shaved 2mm.  I think that will be safe.   What a pain in the butt job though for 2mm all around !

[quote=AME_VIP ]
Thanks.  
nooo I've been compared to drftgirl/emerald ha  :laugh:   
[/quote]


hahahahahahaha I got banned from CL for not agreeing with the moderaters that the car looked good. 

What a joke. 

Update: nothing has been done yet. But I just spent over an hour talking with my body about how to make the rear over fender. He is going to cut up the stock front fenders and use the metal to create an overfender out of metal for the rear. He is a perfectionist and wants this to flow and look balanced and so do I. All the fabrication should be done by sunday night.  It will be prepped and ready for paint sometime mid week. 

AME we gotta do a small NW meet!

By the way, I have the same size tires in the rear as you 275/30/19 and it looks really good.

When is the next update here man! :D

Wish I had one.  My body guy has done nothing on it since fitting the vertex fenders and starting work on the rear.   I'm going to call him tonight.   

As expected these are very aggressive. The plan is to widen the vertex fiberglass fenders and do a metal overfender on the rear.  I'll post pics up when I get some but its slow going now.

cant wait to see this done. the work in progress is already looking awesome.

No pics yet but thinks are moving forward. I have been promised I'll have the car back in primer.

I checked out the progess today. The Vertex fenders have been cut and refiberglassed flared around 12mm more or so. Rear is pulled and smoothed out with a fiberglass/bondo mix. The rear wheel is still poking out with some tire and I don't think its going to be flush.  Any more pull and the metal on the quarter starts to dent.  

I'm going to take one tons advice and machine the rear rotor hat (Its oem and very thick) around 2-3mm to bring the rear in more.  

I'll post pics soon! He can't wait to get rid of it because people keep stopping him and asking about the crazy wheels on the street. Someone knocked on his door at 11pm last night to bug him about the car ! lol  

Update with pics

Received the car back last night so I could drive it to see if it rubs.  I knew right away it would. For some retarded reason he was afraid to drive my car.  Not like its an Enzo ha
Its rubbing like a b**** over bumps, turning, basically all around.

The numbers:

Before bodywork
Front sticking out:  44mm 
Rear sticking out:  42mm

Gained 
Front 29mm
Rear 17mm

After bodywork
Front sticking out: 15mm
Rear sticking out: 25mm

I'm going to take it back tonight and see if he can add more material.  He can't pull any more on the rear because it starts pulling metal from the rear of the rear quarter and starting an indent.  I can gain a few mm by shaving the rotor hats.   Other options that we have discussed.  Hopefully things will work out.  Some pics with out the JIC sides and rear.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1581.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1586.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1583.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1590.jpg[/img]

I like it alot!

 :smitten:

Thanks man. I'll take it back to my body guy tommorrow. He is going to add some more material and I'll go from there.

Shave rotor hats front rotor hats, front calipers 2mm, shave or smaller front spacer instead of 15mm, negative camber.

The wheels are already turning heads like no tommorow

Where are you from again?

I wonder if your body guy can do some work on my LS?

I'm in Victoria on Vancouver Island. 

Its a possibility but he doesn't wanna take on any more side jobs right now.  

I'll talk to him about it maybe he would be excited about doing another widebody/wheel fitment job.

i would go with bnsports blister fenders front and back

you could always do some wheel arches, like viplife, or buy the universal flares and have him mold them in. that way you could have less actual body work to do, and not be afraid of indenting the rear quarter panel. 
like this maybe? i know its more tuner/racer

[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y177/caoboy/jan1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y177/caoboy/jan2.jpg[/img]

theres a shop down the street from me that sells conservative flares for $100. great fiberglass quality. its a fairly sharp curvature to it. it gives an extra half-inch to and inch out. it should work for you.

I'd say if they cleaned up the fenderwells a bit, you could still fit those wheels in with just about -3.5deg of camber in front and about -5deg in back...actually some neg camber would be nice just to make it not look like it's got pos camber. 

duvill:  been over that already months ago.  BN sports is well beyond my budget unless you are buying.  To get it to me in Canada is around 1250 US once the dust has settled for rears only not to mention all the work required to make them fit.

Thanks for the suggestions but I'm not interested in bolt on flares.  I don't like the style and especially not after all the modding of the body has that gone on already.

Definitely going to be dialing in negative camber after I machine to bring the wheels in further.   Your right.  It has a stock alignment and the front is so straight it looks positive.  yuck.
2 options.   Cut and reweld upper control arms or 2 deg daizen bushings.

I may have to accept the fact that the rears are too aggressive. The fronts can be made to fit with some machining and less spacer. They are not even stretched with 9.5 with 235 as well. A better fitting set of 19s (that aren't so low offset) may be in my future if these don't work out.

I appreciate all the replies guys!

[quote=AME_VIP ]

I may have to accept the fact that the rears are too aggressive.  The fronts can be made to fit with some machining and less spacer.  They are not even stretched with 9.5 with 235 as well.  A better fitting set of 19s (that aren't so low offset) may be in my future if these don't work out.

[/quote]

Dont give up now! Just work with it.. :)

[quote=AME_VIP ]
I may have to accept the fact that the rears are too aggressive.  The fronts can be made to fit with some machining and less spacer.  They are not even stretched with 9.5 with 235 as well.  A better fitting set of 19s (that aren't so low offset) may be in my future if these don't work out.

[/quote]

Seriously, don't give up... try getting some extra stock sc300 ruca's and haveing them shortened a tad. Also, I would suggest lowering the car a bit to get a feel for how much room you really need. It certinally doesn't look undoable. Also, with the fronts, why machine the wheel down if you have a spacer to play with. I would say just get a smaller spacer, before machining the wheel itself. 

yeah, dont give up.....you can definitly make those work out.

Thanks guys. I really want to make these work.

JZZ I'll see about getting a pair of rear UCA. There isn't a single wrecked SC in my area so it will have to come from some other wrecker where they have one. I wonder if 2deg front and back would be enough?

Front has a 15mm spacer. It has 6.5mm of brake clearance now so I could get away with a 10mm spacer with longer H&R studs. The other thing I was considering is just machine the front rotor 3mm and front spacer 2mm to gain the same 5mm. I'm tempted to go back to stock brakes all around but my old stockers were garbage. Then I wouldn't need the 15mm spacer and fronts would be cake.

The ride height is all over the place right now and aren't in final adjustment. I believe the rear is all the way down in the pic but you can't really see how close the fender is to the tire. Its actually very close.

[quote=AME_VIP ]
Thanks guys.  I really want to make these work.

JZZ I'll see about getting a pair of rear UCA.  There isn't a single wrecked SC in my area so it will have to come from some other wrecker where they have one.  I wonder if 2deg front and back would be enough

[/quote]

Check this place out [url]www.nix99.com[/url] they are a Toyota/Lexus yard. Im pretty sure you will find something there.

Nice link thanks!  I can't find it in their online inventory but I'll contact them.  I would rather do this than the bushings.

Also, do any SC owners know how to adjust the stock suspension to add camber ? Is it with eccentric bolts on the top and bottom?

Work with it...

Not sure if it would work, but i've always toyed with the idea of the chrome flares they sell at Kragen and such. You can mold those on then cut the stock fender as much as possible. When all is ready just paint them factory color. This will create a nice fender arch and hopefully the end result is the look of a pulled fender.

Chris

How about these?
[b]NEW PRICE $199.99 - was $300 These are the fender flares on many magazine featured vehicles including the IS300 you see above. These flares are subtle in appearance but they can accomodate a much bigger wheel then stock OEM. These flares enable you to rock a taller / wider wheel because they add 2 inches of girth on all four corners of your ride. Another cool thing about these flares is that they create an optical illusion that your vehicle is much lower then it appears because the wheel gap from tire to fender can be minimized or even eliminated once the flares are applied correctly. 

Included are 4 fender flares and 2 door extensions for a total of 6 pieces. Units are univeral and must be molded into the 4 doors vehicle. 

Initially this kit was made to fit the 4 door IS300 but our clients have made us aware that these in fact work with all other 4 door vehicles as well as long as a bodyshop will be molding the flares onto the vehicle.[/b]
[img]http://estore.teamprototype.com/prod_img.php?dir=small&img=flaresis_01.jpg[/img]

Guys I appreicate the advice and responses.  
I really do not want to mold in flares.   We are trying very hard to maintain the factory lines of the car.  I know this is very difficult with how aggressive the wheels are but all is not lost.

As I've posted its going to get some more work to make the fenders wider.   Just dropped the car back off to my body guy an hour ago.  Good think he lives just 5 blocks from me.
Here is the run down of what I'm thinking.    

List:

More body work to widen slightly
Machine front and rear rotors 2-3mm
Machine 2mm off of front 15mm spacers 
Negative camber with 2 deg bushings front and shortened rear UCA.
225/35/19 tire in the front
If neccessary back to stock brakes = remove front spacer, does nothing for rear

[quote=AME_VIP ]
   We are trying very hard to maintain the factory lines of the car.  I know this is very difficult with how aggressive the wheels are but all is not lost.
[/quote]

[quote=AME_VIP ]
I may have to accept the fact that the rears are too aggressive. The fronts can be made to fit with some machining and less spacer. They are not even stretched with 9.5 with 235 as well. A better fitting set of 19s (that aren't so low offset) may be in my future if these don't work out.
[/quote]

hmmmmm.....so are you gonna accept the fact or gonna work with it? :buck2:

I'm going a little wheel fitment crazy don't mind me ha  :uglystupid2: Also I'm getting super run down after doing day 10 of 18 in a row at work.  ack

I'm going to do everything I can to try to make these work short of add on flares.  Trying to keep the lines of the body as close to stock as possible and very smooth.   I'm also on a time constraint with the SC being my daily and borrowing cars to get to work these days.  Not to mention my body guys time is not cheap nor unlimited.

[quote=AME_VIP ]
I'm going a little wheel fitment crazy don't mind me ha  :uglystupid2:  Also I'm getting super run down after doing day 10 of 18 in a row at work.   ack

I'm going to do everything I can to try to make these work short of add on flares.  Trying to keep the lines of the body as close to stock as possible and very smooth.   I'm also on a time constraint with the SC being my daily and borrowing cars to get to work these days.  Not to mention my body guys time is not cheap nor unlimited.
[/quote]

lol...i know how you feel about work.

Now get to work ;D

can you find some pics of the susp? i only barely remember what it looked like... except for the fact that most of the arms/links were alum. But I do remember that i had a good idea of how to modify one of the uca, and one of the lca (don't remember which was front and which was rear anymore) to allow good adjustability, while being very simple to fab. It'd still require tig welding alum though, and doo doo cast alum at that, and not everyone can do that... it's definitely not as simple as modding nissan/infiniti susp

Note to self: tig cast aluminum

Front:  
[img]http://www.clublexus.com/gallery/data/500/22729beforepaint1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.clublexus.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10005&stc=1[/img]

Rear: (I'll try to find better pics)
[img]http://filebox.vt.edu/users/lfernand/sc300/rear%20d2.jpg[/img]

ohh yah the front susp pic is good... I remember what I had in mind to mod those front UCAs now. as for the rear... if you can get a blow-up diagram from the fsm like for the front susp that'd be awesome... mostly because I'm also curious how the stock subframe is arranged and how it bolts to the chassis

What was your idea for the front? I'm considering Daizen bushings front and rear and then go from there at the moment. A guy has some for 175 US shipped. 2 deg +/- adjustment. Pain in the butt install because they have to be pressed in and cannot be adjusted unless pressed out again.

Jackpot. Thanks planet soarer for more pics of suspension!

[img]http://planetsoarer.com/upperbushes/FrontupperSA26.jpg[/img]
[img]http://planetsoarer.com/upperbushes/RearupperSA107.jpg[/img]
[img]http://planetsoarer.com/upperbushes/RearuppercomponentsSA115.jpg[/img]

the beauty of using offset bushings like that, esp ones you have to press in and out to adjust, is that you have to know the exact angle of the control arm at your ride height, and press the bushings in such that the offset is positioned exactly where you want, at the angle the control arm is at the height you want. Pretty tricky stuff... doable, but lots of measuring will be needed. 
The design i settled on (without fabbing/machining a whole new control arm for the front) was to take the alum uca, cut the bushing ends off the arms at a line perpendicular to their axis of rotation, and like 1.5" in from the centerline of each bushing, and get a rectangular billet of alum, drill and tap it (and some slight machining to round it out a bit for aesthetics), and weld it to the arm stubs... and then you can run adj heim joints or bushing ends. The rears are a bit trickier because one of the "arms" is horizontal, so you don't really have that play in them, but I'd just prob just section the main body of the uca, weld in threaded sections, and use a left/rght turnbuckle style adjuster to be able to move the ball joint end in and out. Welding cast alum is tricky, and I wouldn't trust myself to do it.. i was going to have a local friend do the actual tigging on them... and even with a good weldor, with cast alum you never know how it's gonna be till you actually start welding it (due to casting processes, alloys, impurities, etc. that can affect the part's weldability)

Very interesting ideas!  8)
I have purchased the Daizen bushings and I am awaiting arrival.  
So plan is:

Front:  machine rotors 2mm, machine bolt on spacer 2mm, Daizen  - 2 deg bushings, max negative on stock camber bolts

Rear: machine rotors 2mm, Daizen - 2 deg bushings, max negative.

I will keep looking for a cheap stock rear upper arm that could be sectioned.  Thanks!
I would go back to stock brakes on the front if I hadn't just put on new Supra TT brakes all around just 5 months ago and my old ones weren't long gone.

EDIT: Just got off the phone with bodyman. He is determined to make the wheels work so he is going to widen the front and rear some more.  I think the 2 deg negative camber will help the look though as it looks odd with the wheels straight up and down

Latest update:
Got the car back last night.  Fender pulling and widening is completed.  It will be painted next saturday and sunday.  Any more pulling and it was pulling the metal away from the where the quarter panel meets the door.  

One goal was reached in that there is no rubbing at all now.   I'm happy about that.

Currenly the rim sticks out 15mm in the front and 25mm in the rear.  

Front: 
I just dropped off my 15mm bolt on spacers and front wheels to have the spacers machined down 7mm and the pad of the wheels will get material removed where the stock lugs will hit.    
I've purchased 2 deg camber bushings so those will be next up front and rear.  

Rear:
Took the rear rotors back this morning. They will take 2mm or so off the rear rotor hats. 

I will put 225 on the front as well when the the fronts are toast. Only around 50% tread left.
Its either camber or buy new wheels now after all that.   These were verrry aggressive.

So how much clearance will I gain on the top of the wheels with 2.5 deg neg camber?   Wheels are 19" so distance will be 9.5" or 241.3mm with angle of 2.5 deg (approx)  
I'll lower the car more as well.

rear
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1593.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1595.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1601.jpg[/img]

Looking good how much is this all costing ya?

Too much. ha

Body work is a hook up.  1800 CDN total.   Complete repaint while fixing all dents, spider webs, rust etc.  Include installing, painting and finishing full body kit, vertex front fenders.  Widening front fenders and pulling rear.  Fitting the wheels and adjusting coilovers 1 million times haha  

Machining is about 120 CDN for wheels/spacers.  35 CDN to machine both rear rotors down.

Daizen camber bushings about 250 CDN total.   Wheels and tires you can guess ha

Nani? I think I missed the thread where Weds cost a buck CDN.
Btw...I didn't know you were in Canada...where are you located?
(sorry, don't mean to threadjack)

[quote=firelizard ]
Nani? I think I missed the thread where Weds cost a buck CDN.
[/quote]

I think hes telling you the exchange rate. :2funny:

haha 
ok took the exchange rate out now  

I prefer not to post how much the wheels were.

I'm in Victoria BC Canada.  Stones throw from Seattle.

Oohhh okay ;D
Cool.

Extended and re routed washer, side marker, running light harness around behind the washer bottle. 
The tire was rubbing on the harness a little. Even previous setups were as well.
Fender liner is also removed. 

Too bad there is a screw in one front tire already. There wasn't one in when they arrived. I've driven on these wheels a total of 15 blocks so far too ! ack

more pics of the pull job front and rear. So how much was actually pulled out in contrast to factory fender placement.

I'll have some better pics of the pull after the weekend when it gets painted.  It will be easier to see that it is now.

Front 25mm vertex fender + 5mm more 
Rear pulled about 20mm

The rear would not go out any more without denting the fender and pulling metal from the door jam.

Good thing I called my machine shop.  The secretary was supposed to call me.  Because of the grovves where the studs press in, you can't take material off the spacer.

They've had these for 3 days now morning to night and nothing has been done.  I head down there and the orginal guy is all pissy and wants me to sign a waiver if that I won't sue if anything goes wrong.  They put a different guy on the job.  He has promised me it will be done by 3pm tommorrow.  Then I have to reassemble to take it to the body shop by 5pm or so.   Ack.
To be done:

Rear:  rear rotor hat shave 2mm.  Total gain: 2mm

Front:  front rotor hat shave 1mm, recessed in 2mm for back of studs on spacer to sit in
front 15mm spacer shave 2mm on the back, 2mm on front (most you can take off until your at the splines.   Front wheels drill recesses to fit the lugs of the bolt on spacers 2mm. Total gained: 5mm

Great to know youre willing to go the extra mile just to get a few mm of clearance. :) hehehe. 

some might call me crazy :uglystupid2:
hopefully all this work will be worth it 

Looks like you're the only one in the whole forum thats actually doing something to thier car... ;)

Keep us posted, I like the updates.

Wel, I have been following this over time. I think you have bought some beautiful rims. at first, I was sure you were going widebody. After some time, It was clear you were not going widebody showing how much you spent just "fit" the rims under the car. On top of that, you became discouraged they didn't fit right. I know that feeling and it's the worst. Fortunately, everything worked out for me. I think the only way your car will ever look "right" is to eventually get a widebody kit. There is still some great potential there. I mean, I ordered W-Blood for gods sake. The kit looks great on the car and it's the only one like it. So far. For what you spent though, you can or could get into a widebody. Have fun tho.

I appreciate the comments. 

Its really turned into making the wheels fit the car.  
I won't be going widebody because of the large investment required for BN Sports or Runner full widebody. I'm still making progess slowly and I'm getting closer.

I got all my parts back from the machine shop and installed everything. The car is getting painted Saturday/Sunday. I will get the car back and start playing with ride height. Then I will be adding camber as needed. The rears are just too aggressive but I don't mind some poke :)

I see, it just seemed so futile to go any further without widening the car. Vertex is expensive too? more than BN Sports?

Vertex Ridge would be sweet. Less than BN but also too much $$$$ at this point.  Maybe that would be better for someone who owns a shop or is sponsored. There is no way I am changing directions now.

I have Vertex wide fenders on the front, rear fenders pulled 20mm.  Camber is set at zero right now so it will be much better after adding camber.  I haven't even test fitted yet with the wheels after machine work.   I'm not giving up now.    8)

[quote=AME_VIP ]
There is no way I am changing directions now. I'm not giving up now.  
[/quote]

Good Good hang in there.............. :coolsmiley:

Yes please put up the good fight its gonna be soooo worth it in the end.

Rear fenders look cool... they don't look like how most poorly-pulled fenders look... like a duck bill. Check out the 7th pic in here too:
[url]http://www.tougefactory.com/tas2006/[/url]
Looks similar eh?

Thanks for the comments guys. 

Oneton: Very similiar.  Thats very nice how they pulled the factory front as well.  The duck bill look is exactly what my body guy was trying to avoid and I'm glad he did. Its looks very smooth, goes with the lines of the car and doesn't grab your eyes from the rest of the car. 60hrs was invested in widening the fenders alone!

Which came first? The lowering or the camber? 

I had gotten an alignment to factory specs a few months back. Now the car is sitting slightly higher with 2 finger gap.  I want to take the car back to this alignment shop to get them to add negative camber. If I go much lower the tires will rub with this alignment.

Should I lower it down to the height I want, then drive gently over to get the alignment. Or, get negative camber dialed in , then come back from alignment and lower the car to the desired height?

Car is still awaiting paint still. In the mean time I'm working more on the wheel fitment. Getting the one tire repaired today that has a screw in the tread. I reinstalled one side with the new machining. Front has about 1-2mm brake clearance now woot !  Every mm is helping but still need camber :D

sorry if this is a repeat question/post..
what suspension is that..
is it D2?
if it is.. please tell me how the quality is

Lower first, then camber... remember those offset bushings you're going to use need to be set relative to the angle at whcih the control arm sits at your ride height... so you get the car to ride height, measure the angle at which the control arm is at, then press the bushings in so that they offer the most inward offset of the control arm at that angle

I'm on Tein Basic coilovers for the MKIV Supra.  I just posted that pic of the D2 to show the supension design. It was a from a member of clublexus.

Well I was going to try what workaholic has told me. I pm him on CL regarding camber. He has the silver SC with CCW classic wheels on here. I don't know if he posts here anymore. Here was his reply

Yes, using stock bushings bring the car to your alignment shop who does custom specs and request them to max toe in and neg camber. Currently im running close to -6 up front and -4 in the rear with tein flex maxed to perches. He also said he had the Daizen bushings but didn't even need them for camber! I was going to take the car back to my alignment shop and see how much negative they could dial in.

Thanks for the replies

What is the theory behind all the toe in? Wouldn't that cause a lot of tire wear and poor handling? (I'm just asking, I don't know)

[quote=firelizard ]
What is the theory behind all the toe in? Wouldn't that cause a lot of tire wear and poor handling? (I'm just asking, I don't know)
[/quote]

good handling??? hahaha, this is VIP. 

I've done basic alignments on cars but I'm not sure why I'm supposed to max toe in then add lots of negative camber.  Do you guys think I should try this before installing the daizen bushings ?

Well toe in front is adjusted via the tie rod ends... rears are determined by the extraneous links ("radius rods"). So basically you'll still want to do camber first, then fix the out of toe that results from that camber

exactly my thoughts.  I'll setup the stance first then go for an alignment to add camber.  Then correct the toe after that.  Thank you.

Yay!  Went to get the screw in the tire repaired and they will not repair it.  The inner sidewall is more skewed than Falkdesigns' view on VIP.  I was wondering about this because the front 235/35/19 DNA ES300 on 19x9.5 were not stretched on the front but really stretched on the back side.  Looked like there was a problem :(  The outside sidewall is still stiff, but inside sidewall is so soft you can push it in and out with your finger.

I ordered some Falken ST115 225/35/19 and will have them stretched onto the 9.5 front on Thursday or Friday when they arrive.  

Ok last update before its finally painted this weekend.  Definitely going in for paint 100%.  Most people are probably getting sick of these updates ha!

Falken Azenis ST115 225/35/19 came in and are now mounted.  Wow what a stretch on 19x9.5.   They are much more stretched than my rear Toyo T1S.  I may have to use the ST115 on the rear when the T1S wear out.   

Mounted the fronts and played with the suspension to get the car at the same right height all around without rubbing so it can be driven to the body shop.   About 15mm gap all around which is not too bad.   It will go lower once I get it back from the body shop and make an appointment for an alignment.
I may not need the Daizen bushings at all but we'll see.  

Last pics before its painted.  You can see the wheel fitment is getting a lot better.   :smitten:

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1624.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1617.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1632.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1631.jpg[/img]

It has the presence of a Japanese Soarer. ;D

Good job man. It's my turn now... :coolsmiley:

Are you getting anything for the sides? Looks naked without one, especially how low the front lip makes the front look.

over to you Xotic  :coolsmiley:

yes sir I have JIC sides and rears that are primed and ready at the body shop. 

Yeah it looks great and after paint and the finished kit its gonna be incredible. :o

Wow, that thing looks really agressive with those wheels
The front clip gives it a bit of a silly grin though :P keeps it from being [i]too[/i] intimidating

and close up pics of the rears? (like how u did with the front) i still think it would look better with some more flaring of the rears... maybe the sideskirts/rear bumper will help fill it out more. keep up the good work though! lets see it done!

thanks for the replies guys.  Its amazing how it has more presence with aggressive fitment. Its turning heads like crazy already after a short 10 min drive. Firelizard I see what you mean about the smiley face ha

Yah I really would have like to bring the rear out further but my body guy has had enough. I will be adding a little neg camber in the front and a lot in the rear to compensate. Putting the rest of the kit back on will make it less obvious how much the rears stick out. You can see the huge tire right now from every angle so that grabs my attention.  I'll switch to ST115 in the rear (eventually) which should help as well.

Its funny I was just renting my fender roller to a mustang owner with 18s and 295's on the rear and his tires look smaller than mine because of the huge rim.

[quote=OnTop ]
theres a shop down the street from me that sells conservative flares for $100. great fiberglass quality. its a fairly sharp curvature to it. it gives an extra half-inch to and inch out. it should work for you.
[/quote]

More info on this shop?

You wanna find a full set of spare front and rear uca and send them to me to modify? Looks like you're gonna need LOTS of camber in the rear... think of the old public service commercial with the horse and bulldog, when the bulldog borrowed the lamp without asking, and he sneezed and knocked it off the table and broke it "glue, i need glue."... "you're gonna needs LOTS of glue"

lol nice analogy

thanks for the offer. I will venture that route as a last resort. First I'll get an alignment and get as much camber added as possible with stock compenents. Workaholic says he got -4 and -6 from stock components? I have no idea how. 

After that I will use the daizen bushings with the oh so fun press in install.

Is there any way to calculate how many mm the top off the wheel will be angled in per degree of camber?

Trigonometry to the rescue...
[img]http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3377/camber0lu.jpg[/img]

I hope I got this right..

nice diagram thanks!   My gf and I were racking our brains a little while ago trying to come up with this.  I was using the measurement from the center of the wheel but yours make more sense from the ground.

Does c = b ? What does the ^ stand for?   
I'd like to find out if my camber is at 1 deg right now, what will the distance a become at 3 deg.  

Xotic: one option for flares is : [url]http://www.insurance-group.net/products/diana/index.html[/url]

[quote=AME_VIP ]
What does the ^ stand for?  
[/quote]

to the "x" power. for instance, c^2 means c to the 2nd power, i.e. c squared. b^3 means b to the 3rd power.

Hmmm, you mislabeled the hypotenuse... and using simple trig is the best way to get you a ballpark idea of how much additional clearance you will be gaining. It can't give you a definitive number though because the axis at which the wheel tilts in is not actually at the very base corner of the tire. In most cases, with adjustable upper control arms, the wheel will tilt in at that lower pivot/ball joint which is going to be several inches above ground level...so in actuality, the top of the wheel goes in a tad, and the bottom is pushed out a tad. This is another reason why adding neg camber gives the appearance of greater width... because you actually do push the wheels out a little bit from their original position. Anyway, with all the technicalities aside, if you're just looking for a general figure, what you do is take the overall diameter of your wheel/tire setup and that is side C in firelizard's diagram. You know the angle opposite side A (corner A, which will be your amount of camber), so from that use the tangent of the angle to determine the distance the top of the wheel/tire moves in. This is where your TI-85 calculator comes in handy....

[quote=One Ton VIP ]
Hmmm, you mislabeled the hypotenuse... [/quote]
Oh yeah, thanks for noticing
I'm a bit :crazy2: in math

Ok, that math is wrong. the square root of a^2 is a. and a^2+b^2(not b^3)=c^2, but this is not the right math to do this.

To save the time and headaches of wrong math on my part I drew this up in my CAD program, although I had to make a few assumptions. I had to assume that the overall wheel diameter is 20" since the mounting surface is 19" and I'm also assuming that the outside lower suspension mount is 4" below the wheel centerline.

With these assumptions I got 2.42 degrees to get the lip from where you measured to the fender for the front and about 4.1 degrees in the rear to get the lip even.

If you can get me some measurements off the car I'll be able to get some real figures for you.

[quote=UTA LS ]
Ok, that math is wrong. the square root of a^2 is a. and a^2+b^2(not b^3)=c^2, but this is not the right math to do this.

To save the time and headaches of wrong math on my part I drew this up in my CAD program, although I had to make a few assumptions.  I had to assume that the overall wheel diameter is 20" since the mounting surface is 19" and I'm also assuming that the outside lower suspension mount is 4" below the wheel centerline.

With these assumptions I got 2.42 degrees to get the lip from where you measured to the fender for the front and about 4.1 degrees in the rear to get the lip even.

If you can get me some measurements off the car I'll be able to get some real figures for you.
[/quote]
I know the square root of a^2 is a, but we don't have "a". But we know "b" and "c", so by doing the equation backwards, we can get "a"...the amount of clearance he gains at the top. We were looking for mm, not deg.

well, what I gave him is how many degrees would have to be added to what he currently has to get everything to fit. Would probably need more than that in front to actually turn the wheels.

ok so lets do some real trig...

Sine degrees = opposite side of the triangle over the hypotenuse since he wants to know how many mm per degree I'll go ahead and show the math for 1 degree assuming I use the same figures as before

therefore the sine of 1 degree over a 14" length (hypotenuse) of the wheel will result in 6.1448mm/degree of camber.

please remember this is just an estimate, can't do the real math without measurements.

also, incase anyone is wondering I'm using 1(degree)*sin*14=6.1448

This same formula can be used for all other wheel applications, just change how many degrees you'd like and the distance from the outer lower suspension bushing to whatever you're trying to get to line up (wheel lips, edges of tires etc)

if you need to find out how many degrees needed to fit you can just do the inverse of sin * (ammt of clearance needed/distance from the outer lower suspension bushing to whatever you're trying to get to line up)

Oh my that is awesome guys.  Thanks.

Uta LS exactly which measurements do you need to get the results as close to accurate as possible.
Do you need overall wheel diameter including tire? or just edge of flange to edge of flange

2.5 deg front and 4.1 deg rear sound pretty accurate already by just looking at it. I'll take the measurement of how far the flange is sitting out from the edge of the fender as well.

When you say I need more to turn the wheels in the front, are you assuming the wheel will be 1mm lower than the fender so the there is little wheel gap?

thats too much math. get some flares. haha

I assume you don't want your fender lips to actually set down onto the wheel lips when its fully dropped so I need the lip flange to lip flange measurement, how far the flange sticks out from the fender and the distance from the center of the wheel hub to the center of the outside lower control arm bolts (center of ball joint in the front). The closer you can get that last measurement the more accurate I can be. This is all assuming that you will be shortening the upper control arms in the rear and moving your upper strut mounts in on the front.  One variable I cannot account for if you get the diazen bushings is how far it will push the wheel center out on the car, although I think it will be insignificant.

I will get those measurements for you as soon as I can. Probably be Wednesday on my day off. 
So the last one is the the hub center (surface where the rotor mounts to?) to the center of the upper ball joint.

You cannot adjust camber by the upper strut mount in the front due to suspension design. Its stock, daizen bushings, or cut and reweld control arms. 
Why would the daizen bushings move the arm out? They are offcentered bushings that you press in. They can be pressed in so that it will shorten the length of the upper control arm instead of making it longer.

need the vertical distance from the center of the lower ball joint/rear bushing to the center of where the rotor mounts to. If possible it would also be nice to get a horizontal measurement from the rotor mounting surface to the middle of the ball joint/rear bushing.

So the daizen bushings get pressed into the UCA's? That's good, I thought they went into the LCA's and lengthened them, that would push the wheel out.

Yep they go in the UCA.  Your right that is much better that they bring them in and not push the bottom out.  

Ok I had some time this morning so here are the measurements.

(Distance I want to gain)
Fender to flange front: 5 mm
Fender to flange rear: 23 mm
Flange to flange on wheel : 515 mm
Vertical center of hub to center of upper ball joint: 155 mm
Horizontal hub mounting face to center of upper ball joint: 130 mm

These are pretty accurate within 1mm.

Also an update on the paint. It was painted this weekend partially. My body guy was doing 2 cars and the other car needed to be sprayed 4 times because of fish eyes. My sides and rear aren't painted yet and there plenty of issues that will be need to be taken care once the paint cures. Its gonna be 2 weeks before its finished argh.

Looks much better with it painted now but still odd without the sides and rear on. Here are the fenders and rear pull. I really like how the pull turned out.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1638.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1644.jpg[/img]

were those the measurements from the center of the wheel hub to the ball joints measured from the upper or lower ball joints? I needed the lower but your reply says upper.

*edit* Ok, so I was bored and decided to do the math anyways and hope that the measurements are the correct ones.

Front camber needed to be added is only .7 degrees to get the lip flange flush, although I believe you won't be able to turn the steering wheel anywhere near full lock, but it'll look damn good. Assuming the measurements from the bushings to the hub is the same on the rear you'll only need to add 3.19 degrees of camber to get the lips to fit under there. Remember this is just to get everything to line up vertically with the fender edge, you may need to add more to get the tires to not rub on the rear fenders.

Looks good man! Any better pics of the whole car? ;D

Yep that measurement was the from the hub to the center of the upper ball joint. That is the horizontal distance btw not the exact center of the upper ball joint to the exact center of the hub.

 I think the lower ball joint measurement is the same distance but I'll double check.

Ok a few more pics. :) sides and rear still not on so the rear wheel is more pronounced. Some adjustments were made today like adjusting the fenders and more small things are needed to finish it.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1633.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1636.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1635.jpg[/img]

its amazing what a set of wheels can do to the look of a car, looks awsome, and its going to look even better with the sides and rear on.

I saw this and thought about your clearance problem.
[img]http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/3352/fat3xx.jpg[/img]
Yep, camber will solve it :)

I wonder how much camber that is ha

I went to back to the shop I had my alignment at to get the specs at which it was last aligned at.

Current spec:
Front: -1.0 deg
Rear: -2.6 L, -2.3 R deg

Factory spec:
Front -0.70 to + 0.80
Rear -1.60 to - 0.10

I assume they adjusted the cam bolts positively to correct some negative camber.

Looks like I'm going to need the camber bushings which have just arrived.  I'm thinking I should get the bushings pressed in for full negative (-2.0 deg) then go back for alignment and see what can be done.

One thing I'm concerned about is front and rear balance.  It says in the instructions it will reduce or add 5mm to the top of the wheel.  In this case my fronts would be flush and the rears would still be sticking out.  Should I still go full -2.0 deg front and rear then make minor adjustments from there?

I think you need somewhere around 5 degrees up front and 7 degrees in the rear. Seriously. :) 

lol
u crazy  :uglystupid2:
The fronts are out just 5mm and I'm pretty happy with where they are at already in fact.  Instructions on the Daizen bushings (2 deg) even state that it will adjust the top of the wheel approx 5mm. The rear needs a lot !11 8)

I love this stuff.  The resistance is awesome.  Just makes me push harder.  I get lots of people already saying they love the aggressive fitment.

I removed the front upper control arms to get the bushings pressed out but the shop ran out of time today.

2hrs + just to remove the front arms. I couldn't get the rear arms out. I don't have a torch or air tools so I'll have to take it to a shop to have the rear uppers changed sadly.

If I finish installing the front and rear camber bushings my camber will be
Front: -3.0 (factory spec -0.70)
Rear: -4.5 (factory spec -1.60)

The other option would be get a spare set of arms (I have a line on a pair for 80 US + shipping) and send them to oneton for even more rear camber. Opinions? 

are the SC's control arms the same design as the LS' one? 

Cuz if it is, I might pick up a spare set to send to One Ton as well....

I'm pretty sure they are different. I know the camber bushings (which go in the upper control arms front and rear) will not work on the LS. You could get yourself a spare set of LS and ask him about cutting and welding them :)

[quote=PagongLS ]
are the SC's control arms the same design as the LS' one?  

Cuz if it is, I might pick up a spare set to send to One Ton as well....
[/quote]

Let me know also if you find out i mite need to have a cusom set done and comming across sc's are easier than ls's.

relative to this pic it looks like the fronts only need maybe about -3deg to tuck under the fender lip, but the rear could use at least -7deg at the least to get the sidewall all in
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1635.jpg[/img]
Hmmm, I just got a hold of some lexus FSM pdfs for suspensions... for the previous-gen GS and SC.. gonna try and get a hold of the same sections for LS also (or if anyone has it pls send this way). Then we can cross reference parts maybe

When your right your right oneton.

I took out the front control arms, had the daizens pressedi in today and reinstalled the control arms.  
2 deg = 5mm exactly as the instructions said.   I'm now at -3.0 in the front.
No pics yet but the fitment is close to perfect in the front.  no tire is seen from the top of the fender.  just the flange :)
pics soon

-7 is huge in the rear but I think your right.  Currently at -2.5 and it would be -4.5 if I put the bushings in.
How would the tire wear be with -7.0 :(

My machine shop can take 2mm off the rear wheels.  However I'll have to pay to have the tires dismounted and remounted/balanced again.  

Looks like I'm going to need to cut reweld. I will try and get those arms and send them to you oneton.

Wear will ultimately depend on how well the susp is designed in regards to bump steer... looks like the car has simple toe links that will make static toe adjustment (to compensate for camber) pretty easy. Well... relatively easy. So you can get it to the point where wear should be acceptable. hmmm once it gets down to it I can show you how to measure for bumpsteer and from that we can determine how much effort Toyota put into designed that rear susp. (Nissan used like 3 or 4 Cray supercomputers when they engineered the G50's multi-link front and rear susp, as it was used pretty much across the board on most all their RWD cars..)

Oneton I'll let you know when I get my hands on a pair of SC RUCA.

A few pics of the camber.  -3.0 front

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1651.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1654.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/DSCF1658.jpg[/img]

Lookin' hot hot hot!
This is coming together really nicely!

Really nice...  :)

AME VIP

Battle Version makes some Rear Traction Links & Rear Toe Links: [url]http://www.battleversion.com/[/url]
Not sure if this is neccessary, but take a look.

-s-

Thanks solo. I have seen those. They could help bring the toe back to spec if in fact I go for extreme camber.

thanks for the comments firelizard and christopher

Well I'm on the fence.

I can get the rear arms for 125 US shipped to my door.  How much approx would you charge to cut and reweld the arms?

My other option is just put the 2deg bushings in the rear to gain 5mm.

To be honest I'm worried about really bad camber wear with taking out 21mm (6 deg)  

I could probably deal with the poke instead of extreme wear on the rear.
I drive about 10,000kms a year. 

What do you guys think?

I think its time to get a daily driver for everyday driving to work, the store etc...

Get a Kia and put the 2deg on your SC :)

I have no problem putting the 2 deg bushings on and still daily driving. Its just for the 7deg on the rear!
I'm a bit nervous about the wear

I do like the new Mazda5 compact van hmmm

Get a old camry or corolla for like $1000 and use that as a daily driver beater. 

Do it right and run that -7 degrees in the rear. :uglystupid2:

Well after thinking long and hard about it, I'm going to just install my camber bushings to gain 2 more deg of camber maybe a little more with stock camber bolts.
 I like driving my car everyday so -7 will be too hardcore for me.  
I'll machine the back of the wheels as well once the tires wear out to gain 2mm more.   
I could also remove the rear hub, remove studs and machine the face 2mm.

I'm going to have a little poke on the rear wheels.

Thanks for all the help and comments guys.  

Here is a review of whats been done:

92 SC400
Weds Kranze Cerberus II SMB 19x9.5 +2 MID, 19x11.5 +1 SLo
Falken Azenis ST115 225/35/19, Toyo T1S 275/30/19
11mm bolt on front spacer (custom machined)
Front rotor hat machined 1mm
Rear rotor hat machined 2mm
Camber front -3.0, rear soon to be -4.5 or more neg
Tein Basic coilovers
Supra TT brakes F+R (big calipers)
Vertex 25mm front fenders, cut and widened 5mm
Rear pulled out 20mm
Erebuni lip, JIC sides, JIC rear skirt

Thanks for taking this thread completely off track from a post I made nearly 2 months ago?! 

If you went to this shop you would understand.  Many time I have been there when heavy steroid users are their buying dubs for their vehicles.  It wasn't a blanketing statement.  It was a specific comment about this shop in particular.  As well there have been rumors of drug dealing by this shop for years. 

 If you want to comment on the moderating here, take it to the suggestion forum and not in my thread.  You should know better being a mod on another forum.

Thank you.

On a better note, my body guy is taking the car friday night to work on it sat/sun and finish all the body work. fit, paint, install sides/rear, remove front rock guard on lip, re paint hood, remove a bit of orange peel.  

I can't wait . pics to come early next week.

wow did i miss something in the last few posts? anyway, i say go the bushings route first either way... and then from there you can see if you like what you end up with, or if you want to go more...

Just an overexcited moderator from another board who didn't like my comments about the dub shop which has since been deleted.

agreed. I'll get the rear bushings installed in the next couple weeks.

maan thats mint work you doin to your SC!cant wait see it completely done!
respect!

Update:  Just picked the car up from having the Daizen camber bushings installed in the rear upper controls arms.  They were buried in the cross member and a real pain.  You can't get air tools at the bolts and they were very corroded.
Had an alignment done again as well.  Toe is at oem spec.  Camber front and rear is -3.5 deg.  No more rubbing :)

Hopefully it will have the body work completed this weekend and I'll have some finished pics.  
Finally !  

Oooh, the excitement is building up, we'll need a gala grand opening event!

Very nice can't wait to see.

my body guy continues to have issues. Whether it be personal, being a procrastinator or the paint cracking etc..  a mess.  Coming up on 3 months now ugh.
Here are some pics while heading to a drift event yesterday.  You can see the kit doens't match. All well you can see how it sits right now.  

enjoy

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/IMG_0271.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/IMG_0269.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/IMG_0266.jpg[/img]

it looks good but i think it could use a full front

Your car definitely looks good the kit is slightly off but not too bad at all. It looks super sick rolling. What kind of RHD vehicle is the pic taken from???

Its an R32 GTS-T 
thanks.   defintely needs some more bodywork.   I want this completed so bad.

I'm going to put on some blue puddle lights, remove the black from licence bracket and a few other odds and ends like emblems.  New exhaust too soon :)

I'd love the autocouture bumper or inspection. I've reached my budget on this car so I'm gonna have to wait on that.

dayum~ up close pics please 8)

Bummer about the paint not matching but it is already looking super hot.

can the negative camber be increased, and fenders widened, and the be car lowered anymore?

Fenders are as wide as they will go short of widebody
vertex 25mm front fenders + widened 5mm with fiberglass
rear was pulled 20mm and could not be pulled any further

It can go a little bit lower which I probably will do.  Especially in the rear. 

There is no rubbing right now.  Camber is at -3.5 deg F+R using daizen camber bushings in the upper control arms.  The only way to get more camber is to cut and reweld the rear upper arms.  I'm happy with the front.  There is 1mm of brake clearance.  

For the rear.  I plan to switch to Falken ST115 and machine the backs of the wheels 2mm when the tires are off.   I won't do this until the current Toyo T1S wear out though.

[quote=AME_VIP ]
For the rear.  I plan to switch to Falken ST115 and machine the backs of the wheels 2mm when the tires are off.   I won't do this until the current Toyo T1S wear out though.
[/quote]

so in like 2 weeks ;D im loving the look of the car, can't wait to see it all done!

Jake

lol I hope not! 
I'll flip these tires too when they get low on the inside since they are asymetrical. 

thanks

 Nice job getting it done, looks good.  8)

thanks. I've been really wanting to see how the entire package will look at I'm happy. 

I lowered it a few more mm. Bodykit is 75mm (3") off the ground all around. Wheel gap is 10mm from tire to fender. Ride height is 64.5 mm from top of the fender to ground. No rubbing except under extreme conditions.

Looks good as it is..good job man!

Daaaaaaayum looking great! 

sounds like it's time to start a new budget for a wide body. that would so set off the sickningly wide wheels. It wouls almost have that BNsports look.

[quote=JDMJim ]
sounds like it's time to start a new budget for a wide body. that would so set off the sickningly wide wheels. It wouls almost have that BNsports look.
[/quote]

If you would read the whole thread, you would've known the effort he made NOT to put on a widebody. 

Again AME_VIP, I commend you for the effort you made to make these work.

Very nice work! Good job sticking to it and making it work in the end! Thats what its all about man! :) 

Very nice work indeed props to you brother... 8)

[quote=AME_VIP ]
Fenders are as wide as they will go short of widebody
vertex 25mm front fenders + widened 5mm with fiberglass
rear was pulled 20mm and could not be pulled any further

It can go a little bit lower which I probably will do.  Especially in the rear. 

There is no rubbing right now.  Camber is at -3.5 deg F+R using daizen camber bushings in the upper control arms.  The only way to get more camber is to cut and reweld the rear upper arms.  I'm happy with the front.  There is 1mm of brake clearance.  

For the rear.  I plan to switch to Falken ST115 and machine the backs of the wheels 2mm when the tires are off.   I won't do this until the current Toyo T1S wear out though.
[/quote]

sound like you're headed in the right direction. the car is coming along well, and looking great!

I know the rears are poking still a little but I can deal with it.  I'll take some better pics eventually once the paint issues are sorted out!

thank you everyone for the comments :smitten:

you can definitely now see how the wheels were originally intended for a car that prob had a tad more flaring in the rear than the front... which makes sense. Hmmm, a little extra camber in the rear would definitely bring them in to be even flushness with the fender as the fronts. And it looks like you don't really need too much more camber, so things won't look camber-unbalanced, where one axle is way more cambered than the other. 
the front chin reminds me of the chins on these masks
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/IMG_0271.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.zacke.at/ebay/images/20040924-maske2-det1.jpg[/img]

lol I have no idea where you find this stuff!  :2funny:

[quote=AME_VIP ]
lol I have no idea where you find this stuff!   :2funny:
[/quote]

please click here [url]www.google.com[/url] lol, i love the mask!!!

what is this google you speak of? ha

The factory lip was missing and a complete rip off to replace from the dealer. I ended up putting this lip on because there are very few options for lips for the SC. 

you could try [url]www.car-part.com[/url] they might have a used lip that you could pick up. Not sure if you wanna go through the body work process anymore but its worth a shot!

thanks for the heads up.  I think the oem lip was too subtle.  I'm just gonna have to be satisfied with the supa chin look for a while.  The car gets lots of compliments every day so I'm happy.  A couple pics I took today.   

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/harbourpic1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/harbourpic2.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/rearquarter.jpg[/img]

Drifteven................. :-\

haha don't worry 
I watched a drift event last week and these pics got uploaded on to my computer under the name drift event ha

[quote=AME_VIP]
haha don't worry 
I watched a drift event last week and these pics got uploaded on to my computer under the name drift event ha
[/quote]

Yeah i was like hes pretending to try go VIP with it........ :coolsmiley:

Wow, that hard work was definitely worth it, it looks really hot!

thanks

There I changed the names of the files for ya :D haha
yah its still no where near VIP and never will be. Just a little VIP style

dude are those stock wheels there is not even any dish :2funny: the car is looking really good, i like the supa chin I don't think it looks bad at all.

[quote=nadreams ]
 i like the supa chin I don't think it looks bad at all.
[/quote]
Shhh! We can't let him think he can relax now!

oh I'm relaxing all right! I've got to enjoy this car a little bit after all the time and money put into it over the last few months. phew

Hehe, you deserve it, you worked hard, it turned out great

god damn that's beautiful, great lip on the wheels.

[quote=AME_VIP ]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/harbourpic2.jpg[/img]
[/quote]

that's a sexy slut right there!!!!!

looks like something that I would stumble across on some japanese websites and post over here!

thats hot man! the fitment looks real good! 

Wow... absolutely beautiful. Your hard work paid off!!!

Glad that you are now actually enjoying the car....

So whats the local reaction to your Lexus?

thanks guys :)   

People stare like crazy at the rims!  People are astounded at the size of the lip, how wide the rear wheels are and how extreme the stretch is ha.   I had one person say how they loved the stance and fitment which made me happy.  Another person said it looks like a Soarer from Japan.

As people have said in other threads, everyone has to start somewhere. I'm glad I've come this far but there are still many things I'd like to do when funds allow.

Completed pics.

Full specs: [url]http://www.wheelconnection.ca/projectsc400.html[/url]

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/IMG_3030.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/IMG_3327.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/Touring240/Lexus%20SC400/IMG_3534-1.jpg[/img]

wow man, didnt think you could make em fit...but they look fuckin great!

Absolutely beautiful. Excellent work AME! ;D

Damn, they fit! Nice!

AME- I think you have won the most views and replies on a single topic ever in this forum.... :smiley6600:

one word : W 1 C K E D ! ;)

Stop teasing me with this car! ;D I can't afford anymore projects. :'(

sick... where is the "how to" on pulling fenders?

Sorry no "how to"   My body guy did most of the smoothing after it was pulled using the roller.
 
These Weds were just shipped on Friday to the new owner and car is for sale.