Thread #27800
Sneak peek. Widened and radiused. Rear rolls at 0 psi now. [img]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1320280270.jpg[/img]
how far did they come out? doesn't look too crazy but a lot of work none the less...
It's an 11" et 0 wheel. It stuck out almost 2" before. I wanted the work to look very subtle so that it flowed well. Wasn't really looking for something obvious.
A couple more for your viewing pleasure. I'm excited to get it back...can't wait! [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1320284538.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1320284561.jpg[/IMG]
This gives you an idea of how far it went. Mind you, this is on an already pulled quarter panel. [IMG]http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/224560_10150263860451878_690241877_7353409_6830269_n.jpg[/IMG]
i love your car dude! how much did that cost ya?
I guess after adding 3.5" to the y33 and 4" to the benz, 2" doesn't seem like much these days... widen the front too?
NICE !!! Gonna look so dope when its done.
Damn that's a clean pull, how much did you add camber in between? 1" radius? :biggthumpup:
VIP-UCF;420575 wrote:I guess after adding 3.5" to the y33 and 4" to the benz, 2" doesn't seem like much these days...
widen the front too?
Smitty;420578 wrote:NICE !!! Gonna look so dope when its done.
Juzzo;420579 wrote:Damn that's a clean pull, how much did you add camber in between? 1" radius? :biggthumpup:
[QUOTE=VIP-UCF;420575]I guess after adding 3.5" to the y33 and 4" to the benz, 2" doesn't seem like much these days... widen the front too?[/QUOTE] LOL! You're right though, it's not a ton. Fronts are getting done as well. [QUOTE=Smitty;420578]NICE !!! Gonna look so dope when its done.[/QUOTE] Thanks homey! [QUOTE=Juzzo;420579]Damn that's a clean pull, how much did you add camber in between? 1" radius? :biggthumpup:[/QUOTE] Thanks! Rear camber is at 5.6* and front is at 4.5* (at ride height). Rear is about 1" radius.
looks way better then before. i wasn't a fan of how the rear fenders looked before. this flows way better IMO
I agree...before was a temp solution to getting the car moving for the time being. It's all I could do short of going to the body shop. This was always planned...just need to find the time.
awesome
* ballin'' looking forward to the final pics
Greatness!! chris.
Saw this in person and figured you'd do some body work...wheels were sticking out a lot and fenders were banged up. Should look a lot better next time I see it!
Thats what im talking about, i love Dreamakers work man :biggthumpup:
Anymore pics? "Your sister is hot but your mom does that thing with her tongue"
i would radius it higher and drive around at 0 psi :D haha love the work
I'm really looking forward to this. The M needs 20's because how tall and beefy the car is but then you have to tuck a lot vs 19's. It's going to look perfect now. Chris didn't want to go into the door so we got specs that would keep the car natural looking
i gotta question for ya. for u guys that do the radius with metal work, do u repaint the whole car? or just that section? cuz im looking for work done too
should be the entire side. especially with metallic colors.. you will see its often darker on the part they paint. if they blend in door, you will see it fog where they blend in a lot of different lighting. i see it constantly on here.
id use it as an excuse to respray the car, personally..but youll def save a lot of money with a good quarter panel blend
No such thing as a good blend with metalic
BAHC;421533 wrote:id use it as an excuse to respray the car, personally..but youll def save a lot of money with a good quarter panel blend
[QUOTE=BAHC;421533]id use it as an excuse to respray the car, personally..but youll def save a lot of money with a good quarter panel blend[/QUOTE] thats the main reason why I painted my car... body kit + quarter panel work + pearl = color change.
Everything is getting sprayed except the roof. :)
Kouki Monster;421557 wrote:No such thing as a good blend with metalic
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;421557]No such thing as a good blend with metalic[/QUOTE] Definitely not true...all depends on the skill of the painter...insurance companies aren't gonna pay to paint the whole side of a car everytime
A skilled painter can be as skilled as high as the highest skilled painter ever. But if you have a trained eye, you will see it regardless. You can even see it on factory paint a lot of the time (note acura TL). The only way to get away with it is to not fog the paint. Once you fog paint on scuffed clear, you are done for.. you are then asking for a prism effect with multiple layers of paint divided by clear. You are better off to butt shoot it and not blend at all. Skilled painters will find a line to hide the paint at it so it looks like a shadow. its merely smoke and mirrors. Also, a skilled painter would just paint the whole side :biggthumpup: and wouldnt have it any other way, and if insurance is in the way of that happening.. make damage which is illegal of course
Kouki Monster;422133 wrote:A skilled painter can be as skilled as high as the highest skilled painter ever. But if you have a trained eye, you will see it regardless. You can even see it on factory paint a lot of the time (note acura TL). The only way to get away with it is to not fog the paint. Once you fog paint on scuffed clear, you are done for.. you are then asking for a prism effect with multiple layers of paint divided by clear. You are better off to butt shoot it and not blend at all. Skilled painters will find a line to hide the paint at it so it looks like a shadow. its merely smoke and mirrors. Also, a skilled painter would just paint the whole side :biggthumpup: and wouldnt have it any other way, and if insurance is in the way of that happening.. make damage which is illegal of course
[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;422133]A skilled painter can be as skilled as high as the highest skilled painter ever. But if you have a trained eye, you will see it regardless. You can even see it on factory paint a lot of the time (note acura TL). The only way to get away with it is to not fog the paint. Once you fog paint on scuffed clear, you are done for.. you are then asking for a prism effect with multiple layers of paint divided by clear. You are better off to butt shoot it and not blend at all. Skilled painters will find a line to hide the paint at it so it looks like a shadow. its merely smoke and mirrors. Also, a skilled painter would just paint the whole side :biggthumpup: and wouldnt have it any other way, and if insurance is in the way of that happening.. make damage which is illegal of course[/QUOTE] EDIT: agree with 20% of what u depends where the painter works at...a good painter who sacrifices material cost over quality will paint the entire side like i would do at my shop...a painter working for a large company who's main concern is cost savings will blend...will mix about 12 oz of color instead of ~22 oz to paint the side...either way, you won't be able to see the blend...painting the whole side is just cheap insurance...i even have a hard time seeing where my blends are SOMETIMES...and yes, we do use door handles, side mirrors, moldings, etc. to hide blends...a butt match on a side panel is asking for a repaint... all the stuff about prism effects and fogging on scuffed clear is obviously coming from someone who has no/very little experience in the booth...
or less.
I always expect less from you:innoutrofl2:
There ok :shrug:..from the past cars I seen from them, they never seem to keep the body lines and the flare looks more like a duck bill look to me:hsughwerdv7:. But, as long as the owner is happy,then so am I:dance:..just my .02:shrug:
I have no clue what you just said.
cant wait to see the final product!
slvrstrk;422539 wrote:I have no clue what you just said.
[QUOTE=slvrstrk;422539]I have no clue what you just said.[/QUOTE] he's saying the cars that Dreamakers does (that have been posted) usually doesn't keep the bodyline of the fender and the fender jobs looks like duck lips. (just translating what he said) The last few jobs I've seen that have been posted had the bodylines, most dont.
It is what the owner asks for and wants to pay for since the body line takes more time to do. Some prefer the euro look and the functionality of it (you dont need to worry about what PSI you are at since your fender line won't get messed up if you dont have a fender line). Will with the SC430 and BK both have 3/4" body lines on the fenders. Dreamakers dont cut slits and weld them closed. They also don't chop off the lip add metal and weld it back. They do that all with a hammer and dolly. Not many shops can say they do it this way. Because of that, there are no grinds and less filler. [IMG]http://libertyvip.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/bkpic.jpg[/IMG] The important part is that they make all their cars rollable at 0 psi
J954sho;422530 wrote:There ok :shrug:..from the past cars I seen from them, they never seem to keep the body lines and the flare looks more like a duck bill look to me:hsughwerdv7:. But, as long as the owner is happy,then so am I:dance:..just my .02:shrug:
[QUOTE=J954sho;422530]There ok :shrug:..from the past cars I seen from them, they never seem to keep the body lines and the flare looks more like a duck bill look to me:hsughwerdv7:. But, as long as the owner is happy,then so am I:dance:..just my .02:shrug:[/QUOTE] it all depends on what the customer wants...i'm sure they are more than capable of doing any type of fender work as displayed in the past but it all comes down to the almighty $$$
widebody_Q;422588 wrote:
The important part is that they make all their cars rollable at 0 psi
[QUOTE=widebody_Q;422588] The important part is that they make all their cars rollable at 0 psi[/QUOTE] I know that too well... I had an AirRunner bag failure on the Cross Bronx expressway and I rolled with 0psi for 2 miles on that road... and got absolutely no body damage... :runcoold:
speedaddict;422572 wrote:he's saying the cars that Dreamakers does (that have been posted) usually doesn't keep the bodyline of the fender and the fender jobs looks like duck lips.
(just translating what he said)
The last few jobs I've seen that have been posted had the bodylines, most dont.
[QUOTE=speedaddict;422572]he's saying the cars that Dreamakers does (that have been posted) usually doesn't keep the bodyline of the fender and the fender jobs looks like duck lips. (just translating what he said) The last few jobs I've seen that have been posted had the bodylines, most dont.[/QUOTE] I think for me it would be important to keep the body line and flow the whole car together rather then taking away from the car to roll at 0psi. I'm not pro of course, just think that when you keep the cars natural line and play off of them, you end up with a better cleaner look...
widebody_Q;422588 wrote:They also don't chop off the lip add metal and weld it back. They do that all with a hammer and dolly. Not many shops can say they do it this way. Because of that, there are no grinds and less filler.
The important part is that they make all their cars rollable at 0 psi
[QUOTE=widebody_Q;422588]They also don't chop off the lip add metal and weld it back. They do that all with a hammer and dolly. Not many shops can say they do it this way. Because of that, there are[B][COLOR=red] no grinds[/COLOR][/B] and less filler. The important part is that they make all their cars rollable at 0 psi[/QUOTE] that doesn't make sense anytime you weld metal on the outside bodypanel, you will be grinding.... unless they are tig welding which I doubt. Any bodyman knows you have to use a hammer and dolly. Especially when welding you have to shrink the metal. I don't see why this would need to be pointed out. Rolling at 0psi has nothing to do with having the factory lip "look" on the body. That would be more wheel well work than outside fender work. Meaning you can still have the factory line and roll 0 psi if wanted Either way, I'm not knocking Dreamakers' work, I was just explaining what the other poster was saying and imo putting the factory line is more attention to detail, but the customer is always right and gets what they want.
it all depends how wide you want to go (hammer&doly vs added metal) and how much money and time you want to spend (body line vs no body line) plus some people just like the look without it
VIP-UCF;422589 wrote:it all depends on what the customer wants...i'm sure they are more than capable of doing any type of fender work as displayed in the past but it all comes down to the almighty $$$
[QUOTE=VIP-UCF;422589]it all depends on what the customer wants...i'm sure they are more than capable of doing any type of fender work as displayed in the past but it all comes down to the almighty $$$[/QUOTE] Totally agree that it's wut the customer wants and is looking to pay for..I do custom body & paint as well...but there is other methods to stretching panels besides hammering and dollying and still keep the body lines @ a reasonable price.
BAHC;422639 wrote:it all depends how wide you want to go (hammer&doly vs added metal) and how much money and time you want to spend (body line vs no body line) plus some people just like the look without it
[QUOTE=BAHC;422639]it all depends how wide you want to go (hammer&doly vs added metal) and how much money and time you want to spend (body line vs no body line) plus some people just like the look without it[/QUOTE] :biggthumpup:
speedaddict;422638 wrote:that doesn't make sense anytime you weld metal on the outside bodypanel, you will be grinding.... unless they are tig welding which I doubt. Any bodyman knows you have to use a hammer and dolly. Especially when welding you have to shrink the metal. I don't see why this would need to be pointed out.
Rolling at 0psi has nothing to do with having the factory lip "look" on the body. That would be more wheel well work than outside fender work. Meaning you can still have the factory line and roll 0 psi if wanted
Either way, I'm not knocking Dreamakers' work, I was just explaining what the other poster was saying and imo putting the factory line is more attention to detail, but the customer is always right and gets what they want.
[QUOTE=speedaddict;422638]that doesn't make sense anytime you weld metal on the outside bodypanel, you will be grinding.... unless they are tig welding which I doubt. Any bodyman knows you have to use a hammer and dolly. Especially when welding you have to shrink the metal. I don't see why this would need to be pointed out. Rolling at 0psi has nothing to do with having the factory lip "look" on the body. That would be more wheel well work than outside fender work. Meaning you can still have the factory line and roll 0 psi if wanted Either way, I'm not knocking Dreamakers' work, I was just explaining what the other poster was saying and imo putting the factory line is more attention to detail, but the customer is always right and gets what they want.[/QUOTE] It does make sense, they didnt weld on Brendans Q45 or Will's SC430. And both of those cars can roll straight at 0 PSI. I am talking about without the line, you can turn the wheel while tucking rim in front at 0 PSI and not damaging the car, that is what I mean by that.
VIP-UCF;422244 wrote:EDIT:
agree with 20% of what u
depends where the painter works at...a good painter who sacrifices material cost over quality will paint the entire side like i would do at my shop...a painter working for a large company who's main concern is cost savings will blend...will mix about 12 oz of color instead of ~22 oz to paint the side...either way, you won't be able to see the blend...painting the whole side is just cheap insurance...i even have a hard time seeing where my blends are SOMETIMES...and yes, we do use door handles, side mirrors, moldings, etc. to hide blends...a butt match on a side panel is asking for a repaint...
all the stuff about prism effects and fogging on scuffed clear is obviously coming from someone who has no/very little experience in the booth...
[QUOTE=VIP-UCF;422244]EDIT: agree with 20% of what u depends where the painter works at...a good painter who sacrifices material cost over quality will paint the entire side like i would do at my shop...a painter working for a large company who's main concern is cost savings will blend...will mix about 12 oz of color instead of ~22 oz to paint the side...either way, you won't be able to see the blend...painting the whole side is just cheap insurance...i even have a hard time seeing where my blends are SOMETIMES...and yes, we do use door handles, side mirrors, moldings, etc. to hide blends...a butt match on a side panel is asking for a repaint... all the stuff about prism effects and fogging on scuffed clear is obviously coming from someone who has no/very little experience in the booth...[/QUOTE] Couldn't have said it better:shrug:
reading comp on my part. I thought I read they welded, but no grinding.:pat: you can tell that they just used a hammer and dolly because there is no bodyline, just has the hammered look
speedaddict;422638 wrote:that doesn't make sense anytime you weld metal on the outside bodypanel, you will be grinding.... unless they are tig welding which I doubt. Any bodyman knows you have to use a hammer and dolly. Especially when welding you have to shrink the metal. I don't see why this would need to be pointed out.
Rolling at 0psi has nothing to do with having the factory lip "look" on the body. That would be more wheel well work than outside fender work. Meaning you can still have the factory line and roll 0 psi if wanted
Either way, I'm not knocking Dreamakers' work, I was just explaining what the other poster was saying and imo putting the factory line is more attention to detail, but the customer is always right and gets what they want.
[QUOTE=speedaddict;422638]that doesn't make sense anytime you weld metal on the outside bodypanel, you will be grinding.... unless they are tig welding which I doubt. Any bodyman knows you have to use a hammer and dolly. Especially when welding you have to shrink the metal. I don't see why this would need to be pointed out. Rolling at 0psi has nothing to do with having the factory lip "look" on the body. That would be more wheel well work than outside fender work. Meaning you can still have the factory line and roll 0 psi if wanted Either way, I'm not knocking Dreamakers' work, I was just explaining what the other poster was saying and imo putting the factory line is more attention to detail, but the customer is always right and gets what they want.[/QUOTE] It's all a matter of taste and what look you want. I personally like to keep the body lines. When building a wide(r) body, I would like it to look like the factory made it as an option to the regular body. On a sedan, I'd like to see the widening go halfway into the rear doors. Again, it's a matter of what the customer wants........customer is always right....=) Oh...when you hammer and dolly, you need to keep an eye out for the resulting thickness of the sheet metal since it will become thinner if you're not careful.
speedaddict;422647 wrote:reading comp on my part. I thought I read they welded, but no grinding.:pat:
you can tell that they just used a hammer and dolly because there is no bodyline, just has the hammered look
[QUOTE=speedaddict;422647]reading comp on my part. I thought I read they welded, but no grinding.:pat: you can tell that they just used a hammer and dolly because there is no bodyline, just has the hammered look[/QUOTE] Its there, 3/4" line all around. Some pics, it doesnt look like its there but it is [IMG]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6176/6206180721_1352d5845d_o.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6164/6206178827_4dbc933105_o.jpg[/IMG]
you're right about the different pics looking like it doesn't... looks good in those pics for sure.
speedaddict;422652 wrote:you're right about the different pics looking like it doesn't...
looks good in those pics for sure.
[QUOTE=speedaddict;422652]you're right about the different pics looking like it doesn't... looks good in those pics for sure.[/QUOTE] Yea, the car looks great in person.. and the SC430 is awesome rolling at ~0psi. It it were mine, I would have raised the rear fenders a bit... but then it wouldn't retain the oem lines. All personal preference at that point.
Updated pics. Nate is putting a body line back into the car. Everything is very subtle on my car....it all flows very well in my opinion and if you didn't know or see it next to another one, you may not have known work was done. That was my ultimate goal...simplicity. The lip is something I had laying around from when my wife had a TL. I was joking around one day at the shop and put it under the car and instantly loved how it looked. It will be molded to the bumper seamlessly. Adds a bit of aggressiveness to the front end that was a bit bubbly in my opinion. The entire lip will be white...no grey. [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1321302725.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1321302735.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1321302756.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1321302778.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1321302787.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1321302800.jpg[/IMG]
Yeah Chris... that lip has always been a favorite of mine... I say just watch the overall height of the front bumper with the aspec lip attached... you don't want it hanging that much lower than the side skirts... you want the body height to be almost equal front to rear... Love the updates... keep it going brother...
rodneyc77;422692 wrote:Yeah Chris... that lip has always been a favorite of mine...
I say just watch the overall height of the front bumper with the aspec lip attached... you don't want it hanging that much lower than the side skirts... you want the body height to be almost equal front to rear...
Love the updates... keep it going brother...
[QUOTE=rodneyc77;422692]Yeah Chris... that lip has always been a favorite of mine... I say just watch the overall height of the front bumper with the aspec lip attached... you don't want it hanging that much lower than the side skirts... you want the body height to be almost equal front to rear... Love the updates... keep it going brother...[/QUOTE] true...the lip looks like it hangs lower than the rest of the car...
It does...for now. Going to be redoing the skirts and rear as well....probably not this go around though.
Tell you what... that lip takes a beating (no homo)... :biggthumpup:
slvrstrk;422689 wrote:Updated pics. Nate is putting a body line back into the car. Everything is very subtle on my car....it all flows very well in my opinion and if you didn't know or see it next to another one, you may not have known work was done. That was my ultimate goal...simplicity.
[QUOTE=slvrstrk;422689]Updated pics. Nate is putting a body line back into the car. Everything is very subtle on my car....it all flows very well in my opinion and if you didn't know or see it next to another one, you may not have known work was done. That was my ultimate goal...simplicity. [/QUOTE] :biggthumpup: Car will look really nice!
Thanks man. I'm stoked.
Really? Cement blocks and two floor jacks. Really? And I thought *I* was crazy... Hahahaha
CrazyHawaiian;422765 wrote:Really? Cement blocks and two floor jacks. Really? And I thought *I* was crazy... Hahahaha
[QUOTE=CrazyHawaiian;422765]Really? Cement blocks and two floor jacks. Really? And I thought *I* was crazy... Hahahaha[/QUOTE] I'm pretty sure there is a lift under the car.. you just can't see it. Blocks and jacks are for test fitting wheels I'm assuming.
There is a scissor lift under the car. Nate is crazy, but not that crazy.
haha, yeah, i thought i saw a lift.
Damn Sick Build!
This is looking phenomonal! There are ideas I had in my head that are on this car, and they look great. I'm loving where this is going. Can't wait to see it finished!
CrazyHawaiian;422765 wrote:Really? Cement blocks and two floor jacks. Really? And I thought *I* was crazy... Hahahaha
jzz30tt;422770 wrote:I'm pretty sure there is a lift under the car.. you just can't see it. Blocks and jacks are for test fitting wheels I'm assuming.
slvrstrk;422773 wrote:There is a scissor lift under the car. Nate is crazy, but not that crazy.
[QUOTE=CrazyHawaiian;422765]Really? Cement blocks and two floor jacks. Really? And I thought *I* was crazy... Hahahaha[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=jzz30tt;422770]I'm pretty sure there is a lift under the car.. you just can't see it. Blocks and jacks are for test fitting wheels I'm assuming.[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=slvrstrk;422773]There is a scissor lift under the car. Nate is crazy, but not that crazy.[/QUOTE] LOL yeah he is nuts but not that nuts. There is a scissor jack under the car. That would be funny if there wasn't (not for the owner of the car though). Looking good chris
someone should photoshop a midget holding up the car.
^^^ Photoshop yourself in there Will... :innoutrofl2:
car coming along good cant wait to see it done
cant wait to see the finished product :dance:
bahahah aspec M..sick! any other M's want one, i got mine for sale :P
rodneyc77;422888 wrote:^^^ Photoshop yourself in there Will... :innoutrofl2:
[QUOTE=rodneyc77;422888]^^^ Photoshop yourself in there Will... :innoutrofl2:[/QUOTE] Im gonna put Goldstein in there :smiley-rofl: Chris whens this suppose to be done?
Later next week from what Nate says.
finest omggg....lloooking good sir.:biggthumpup:
Small update...Nate is holding out on the pics. :) Hoping to get the car back this week. [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/IMG_2927.jpg[/IMG]
Nice I love your M ...it looks like your keeping the factory lines good!!!
dope! Cinder blocks, even more dope.
Sweeeettt....
nice chris, can't wait to see the finished product!
Factory lines :biggthumpup:.. on steroids lol
I want to take a trip up to Dreamakers to just chill and hammer some fenders for fun... Let us know when you heading up there Chris... it's coming out real dope... I can't wait.
We can pound on the Q. :)
cant wait to see finished product.
Loving the wheels and the fender work on the car, cant wait to see how it all turns out.
rodneyc77;425176 wrote:I want to take a trip up to Dreamakers to just chill and hammer some fenders for fun...
Let us know when you heading up there Chris... it's coming out real dope... I can't wait.
slvrstrk;425178 wrote:We can pound on the Q. :)
[QUOTE=rodneyc77;425176]I want to take a trip up to Dreamakers to just chill and hammer some fenders for fun... Let us know when you heading up there Chris... it's coming out real dope... I can't wait.[/QUOTE] [QUOTE=slvrstrk;425178]We can pound on the Q. :)[/QUOTE] lol. Guys if you really want to go and need a ride, let me know. I'm heading up there
cant wait to see this
So as you guys saw before, the lip hung pretty low. No matter what was done, it hung low. We almost scrapped the idea. I ended up having Nate cut the ends of the lip off and blend them into the bumper seamlessly. I think it looks even better! Not done, but it gives you an idea of what's to come... [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/photo15.jpg[/IMG]
Doesn't look like its near done. Lol.
Spoke to Nate this morning...body work is all done as of last night. Primer today. It's getting there...
Need pics ASAP !
Im anxious and its not even my car :)
LOL! Progress being made! [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1322764699.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1322764680.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1322764672.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1322764657.jpg[/IMG]
I can't wait to get my car back after seeing these two! [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1322770919.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1322770932.jpg[/IMG]
Oh fack thats nice !
A little Tire Shine wouldn't hurt Nate... :innoutrofl2:(he really hates that stuff)
Damn! You don't mess around, do you? I sooooooo can't wait for the end product. WOWZA
Coming along :biggthumpup:!!! Looking forward to seeing it :bowrofl4wj:
Liberty FUCK YEA ! :biggthumpup:
did you take the bodyline out of the rear?
It's there, just not flat. You will see the body line though.
lookin good...
not really digging the front bumper but overall your call is gonna turn out sick!:biggthumpup:
rear is crazy =) in a good way
was hoping to see the rear fender body lines match the front...
Same here but I got over it. cause the way they did it work the lines are consistant other than the drop edge. The car looks dope. I checked it out in person and it has serious presence that it didnt have before. Reason being the factory line is so damn big. The flare would have to start so high and without going into the door, it wasn't going to work. They also said chris wanted it smooth with no step so adding metal was out of the equation
no need to add metal...weld the flare and use a dent puller for the top...pretty simple...
It wasn't not done because of any of those reasons actually. Nate could easily have done it like VIP-UCF stated. The fact is, i'm just not a fan of the flat edge. Others may like it but to me it makes the sides look too tall on an already tall car. It's just my opinion. Perfect world where I have tons more cash to spend on body work, I would have gone to the upper body line at the door handle level and widened it using that line going into the door ala Porsche 944. That's just wasn't in the budget though. Agi took this pic when he was up there yesterday. I haven't seen the rear of my car lay this low in a while. So happy it can go all the way down... [img]http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/390557_303250379696263_148632848491351_1090357_745781754_n.jpg[/img]
front fenders look excellent. not feeling anything else.
Definitely didn't expect everyone to like it. You're a tough one to satisfy. :shrug: Some more pics! [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/FotoFlexer_Photo1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/IMG_2930.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/IMG_2933.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/IMG_2935.jpg[/IMG]
OG might have a point here... the front looks like they kept the factory line and the rear it's gone.... Still a good job....
damns Im jelly :/
lookin good chris, lookin good. i just cant help but think about how much better it would look with silver wheels with polished lips though...
Just wait and see....there's more in store. ;)
work so good it looks like stock - im happy to be on the back end of some body work - DK perfecting there craft
Looks great however I agree with the what you said about the car looking tall with flat fenders.... So any reason why you wouldnt match the front with the rear? Makes the car look much more aggressive. :shrug:
I like it, reminds me of a 05 06 q45 from the back when the tails and bumper are missing, Thanks for the inspiration! haha
slvrstrk;425985 wrote:Definitely didn't expect everyone to like it. You're a tough one to satisfy. :shrug:
[QUOTE=slvrstrk;425985]Definitely didn't expect everyone to like it. You're a tough one to satisfy. :shrug:[/QUOTE] it is what it is. as long as you're satisfied that's all that matters.
wrd. you're the one who has to see it in the morning. as long as you love it, that's all that matters. :biggthumpup: the car looks good though. can't wait to see the finished work.
OG;426171 wrote:it is what it is. as long as you're satisfied that's all that matters.
[QUOTE=OG;426171]it is what it is. as long as you're satisfied that's all that matters.[/QUOTE] Couldn't agree with you more.
Sneak peek. Car is getting delivered tomorrow... [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1323113687.jpg[/IMG]
That is so fresh.... Wow!!! paint looks perfect.
Wow, that paint looks better than factory man!
One more... [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1323114454.jpg[/IMG]
not the biggest fan of the rear bodywork or the wheels, but the man knows how to paint!
very nice man bring on the big pics already! :biggthumpup:
OK...one last one for today. Hate camera phone pics. I'll take some good ones tomorrow when it's delivered. [IMG]http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/390633_10150465863654497_118958429496_8272510_782801878_n.jpg[/IMG]
Smashing the net right now [IMG]http://luxuryabstract.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/1323114486.jpg[/IMG]
Came out nice! :biggthumpup:
fenders look good the front bumper looks odd though nice job regardless waiting for full pics
wow, looks amazing!
STOP teasing and post some picts!! I wanna see it all done up and polished pretty. Dew it. (what rear visor is that?)
damn sexy as fuck
So the car was supposed to be delivered to me today, but as expected, something went wrong. Nate's trailer ate a wheel bearing on the way down so I drove up and got it. Just got back, so pics will be up sometime tomorrow after I was her up. So nice to have it back.... [img]http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386317_322887511057861_100000098438349_1360185_379960504_n.jpg[/img] [img]http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/384198_10150431939151878_690241877_8283235_335194328_n.jpg[/img]
Come on Chris. U can't tell me you don't miss the q. Lol. I can't wait to see it.
I'm crazy jealous. Car looks great. The front fenders are far and away my favorite part, adds the right amount of muscle to a car that is just too smooth down the sides from the factory, without looking bulbous. My car is laid up right now, so I know how you feel about missing it, must be great having it back.
Wow. Came out pretty nice. Cant wait to see it in person.
So fresh!! great work....
Wow! Looks great man! How can I lay that low?! Pm so info on what you did! Time for a diff look for 2012! Love it tho man!
Forgot my 5D at the shop so I had to use my wife's crappy point and shoot camera. These will have to do for now... I'm supposed to hook up with Dave from Canibeat next weekend for a shoot so good pics are coming soon.... [img]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/DSCN1657.jpg[/img] [img]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/DSCN1662.jpg[/img] [img]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/DSCN1663.jpg[/img]
looks really good man. love the work. what tips are you running??
^^^ Buck i think those are porsche cayenne tips car looks good Chris :biggthumpup:
YO the car came out effing sick, those Lux.Ab pillars are the biz :biggthumpup: u ever think about high polish or chrome outters Chris? I think it would set the Stella's off crazy, great work homii....
Nax, I have chrome outers in transit. :) Thanks guys!
slvrstrk;427281 wrote:Forgot my 5D at the shop so I had to use my wife's crappy point and shoot camera. These will have to do for now... I'm supposed to hook up with Dave from Canibeat next weekend for a shoot so good pics are coming soon....
[QUOTE=slvrstrk;427281]Forgot my 5D at the shop so I had to use my wife's crappy point and shoot camera. These will have to do for now... I'm supposed to hook up with Dave from Canibeat next weekend for a shoot so good pics are coming soon.... [img]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/DSCN1657.jpg[/img] [img]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/DSCN1662.jpg[/img] [img]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/DSCN1663.jpg[/img][/QUOTE] car looks good. i really like those muffler tips. cool plates bro. :biggthumpup:
Wow...nice work done there!! It really flows well.. Another sick fuga to look up to!
car came out sick
looks great they did some outstanding work cant wait to see the car with the chrome outers
damn not the first with the tips, I'm putting the same tip styles on my ls430 lol
Amazing... Simply
slvrstrk;426425 wrote:One more...
[QUOTE=slvrstrk;426425]One more... [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/1323114454.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE] quick question, does your roof spoiler sit on the rear glass?
looks to be so
they do, yeah
Should have kept the body line on the rear panels. Looks odd when looking at the front and rear fenders simultaneously.
was looking forward to see some tight flares but it looks the same as most others...front bumper and fenders looks good though...
After fucking a fender up already, i'm highly inclined to get rid of the front body line too... It's impossible to ride low (most of the tire tucked and flush) and not chance hitting/catching that flat edge. Dropped the car off to get the fender fixed and picking it up Friday. I knew I hated the flat body line for a reason. lol
speedaddict;430832 wrote:quick question, does your roof spoiler sit on the rear glass?
[QUOTE=speedaddict;430832]quick question, does your roof spoiler sit on the rear glass?[/QUOTE] Yes, that's where this one is meant to go.
Wow....you guys drive a long way just to "drop your cars off" ......=)
Matching front and rear fenders would be ideal. Love the progress on the car tho.
so are you having both fronts redone? or are you just having the one fixed....
oddly enough, he's just fixing the 1 fender... :scratches head:
wait so 3 fenders matching, and one oem style?
You can make it look And function correctly...u shouldnt blame it on the fender...u should have.just saved.up And done it right the first time
suspension is the name of the game. if you have to ruin the aesthetics of the car in order to fit wheels, ride at a certain height, etc. then it's not even worth it. you're breaking down the wall instead of opening the door.
wow...umm, if it's money issue, save up and get it done right man unless you guys just fucking around lol
eds13;431592 wrote:so are you having both fronts redone? or are you just having the one fixed....
excluesiveonez;431599 wrote:oddly enough, he's just fixing the 1 fender... :scratches head:
BAHC;431650 wrote:wait so 3 fenders matching, and one oem style?
VIP-UCF;431658 wrote:You can make it look And function correctly...u shouldnt blame it on the fender...u should have.just saved.up And done it right the first time
OG;431660 wrote:suspension is the name of the game. if you have to ruin the aesthetics of the car in order to fit wheels, ride at a certain height, etc. then it's not even worth it. you're breaking down the wall instead of opening the door.
khanhdom;431662 wrote:wow...umm, if it's money issue, save up and get it done right man
unless you guys just fucking around lol
[QUOTE=eds13;431592]so are you having both fronts redone? or are you just having the one fixed....[/QUOTE] Just the damaged one. [QUOTE=excluesiveonez;431599]oddly enough, he's just fixing the 1 fender... :scratches head:[/QUOTE] What's odd about it Chris? lol [QUOTE=BAHC;431650]wait so 3 fenders matching, and one oem style?[/QUOTE] Lol, no. It's going to look the same as in the pictures. [QUOTE=VIP-UCF;431658]You can make it look And function correctly...u shouldnt blame it on the fender...u should have.just saved.up And done it right the first time[/QUOTE] How can I keep the OEM look of the fronts (even spending more money) and be able to turn w/ a tucked and flush tire? Unless the fender physically get's out of the way when I turn the wheel, shit's getting fucked up with the vertical flat edge. [QUOTE=OG;431660]suspension is the name of the game. if you have to ruin the aesthetics of the car in order to fit wheels, ride at a certain height, etc. then it's not even worth it. you're breaking down the wall instead of opening the door.[/QUOTE] Kind of what I said above, suspension really has nothing to do with it. It's not a matter of controlling dampening, but more so an issue of clearance when the wheel is turned. [QUOTE=khanhdom;431662]wow...umm, if it's money issue, save up and get it done right man unless you guys just fucking around lol[/QUOTE] I don't think we're on the same page. It's not an issue of money/budget.
you obviously need a radius:pat:
If I radius the front, the fender won't be flush with the wheel when aired out since it already sits on the subframe. I considered radiusing it, trust me.
The new lips will give me a bit more stretch so I'm hoping that will help a lot.
slvrstrk;431689 wrote:
How can I keep the OEM look of the fronts (even spending more money) and be able to turn w/ a tucked and flush tire? Unless the fender physically get's out of the way when I turn the wheel, shit's getting fucked up with the vertical flat edge.
[QUOTE=slvrstrk;431689] How can I keep the OEM look of the fronts (even spending more money) and be able to turn w/ a tucked and flush tire? Unless the fender physically get's out of the way when I turn the wheel, shit's getting fucked up with the vertical flat edge.[/QUOTE] should have shipped your car to cali [IMG]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5003/5362893273_8bc14d488d_o.jpg[/IMG]
What are you showing me? I said if I got rid of the factory body line/flat edge (like in that pic), I'd be fine. Also, if my front was radiused that far, I'd barely tuck the tire. Not sure if you've seen how low the m subframe sits.
that car has a factory flat edge that has been radiused. hence the drop line being so narrow, but it follows the factory body line. looks OEM without being OEM, and very much driveable.
You can't compare the body line on an my to an LS....not even close. If I had that edge to deal with there wouldn't be an issue. Show me an M with a factory body line that can ride low without issues.
Everything is possible though... just depends how far one is willing to go for to achieve ones goal :shrug: So your front tires rest on the sub-frame when full down? You can always notch it, I bet that's how that Celsior is done aswell and some creative magic at the back also... What else problems do the M throw at you if you want to really slam it?
No, subframe sits on the ground.
i think you should have left your car stock with nice semi-agressive wheels...whether is a 1" body line or 3" body line...anything is possible..
Ok. Let's leave it at that then. Time to move on...
We just tried to stimulate some healthy discussion on how you could be able to full fill your desired look... :shrug: But as you wish, no need to make a war out of this =)
imo, if he doesnt want the drop down edge, thats fine. if he likes the look of it without it, thats his opinion! however, the one thing id say is that since youre getting the one fender fixed anyway, why not remove the bodyline from both so that it at least matches front and rear?
theres no way a Y50 could ride as low as that LS. the belly hangs much much lower wish that wasnt the case as I would (one day ) love to lay my skirts on the ground . damn subframe sits waaay low
BAHC;431871 wrote:imo, if he doesnt want the drop down edge, thats fine. if he likes the look of it without it, thats his opinion! however, the one thing id say is that since youre getting the one fender fixed anyway, why not remove the bodyline from both so that it at least matches front and rear?
[QUOTE=BAHC;431871]imo, if he doesnt want the drop down edge, thats fine. if he likes the look of it without it, thats his opinion! however, the one thing id say is that since youre getting the one fender fixed anyway, why not remove the bodyline from both so that it at least matches front and rear?[/QUOTE] Thank you. I needed the car back ASAP at the moment but am probably going to make the front look like the rear in the near future. The repair was quick and inexpensive so that's why I went ahead and got it fixed the same way this time around.
BORICUA;431879 wrote:theres no way a Y50 could ride as low as that LS. the belly hangs much much lower
wish that wasnt the case as I would (one day ) love to lay my skirts on the ground . damn subframe sits waaay low
[QUOTE=BORICUA;431879]theres no way a Y50 could ride as low as that LS. the belly hangs much much lower wish that wasnt the case as I would (one day ) love to lay my skirts on the ground . damn subframe sits waaay low[/QUOTE] You got that right. If anyone is familiar with 90s Chevy trucks, compare how the frame sits on those compared to that of a Dodge Ram for instance...frame hangs WAY lower. Same deal here. Subframe is super low on the M compared to most other cars. Short of building a tubular subframe that tucks up, this thing isn't going any lower.
I think it wouldve been easier to do the rear to match the front to begin with, that's what I thought you guys were doing. Car will look great when you get the fenders matching :biggthumpup:
Seems like lots of uneducated opinions up in here. It's one thing to suggest and another to try and dictate what could previously have been done. Unless you have specific knowledge of his platform its all theory.
y you mad? :dance: I just mentioned the bodyline would be easy since they were working on the rear already. So now you're going to match the fronts with the rear, it will look good... being educated on your platform has nothing to do with the looks of the bodyline. I do know about bodywork...
slvrstrk;431888 wrote:You got that right. If anyone is familiar with 90s Chevy trucks, compare how the frame sits on those compared to that of a Dodge Ram for instance...frame hangs WAY lower. Same deal here. Subframe is super low on the M compared to most other cars. Short of building a tubular subframe that tucks up, this thing isn't going any lower.
[QUOTE=slvrstrk;431888]You got that right. If anyone is familiar with 90s Chevy trucks, compare how the frame sits on those compared to that of a Dodge Ram for instance...frame hangs WAY lower. Same deal here. Subframe is super low on the M compared to most other cars. Short of building a tubular subframe that tucks up, this thing isn't going any lower.[/QUOTE] Why not take a page out of the mini truck scene, While I'm far from an engineer of the M, could one possible do a body drop on the car? This would in tale cutting and raising the floor higher into the cabin ultimalty sitting the rockers lower, eliminating sub frame issue and laying the car out lower. In the mini truck scene they do this to raise the frame up and the rockers down. In theory this would be the same thing. Since the M has a high roof line, say 3' body drop would sit the sub frame up 3' and the rockers down 3' without major impact on the head room within the vehicle like, a common problem with a body drop. I'm not entirely sure how the M's engine compartment and trunk is and how extensive the mods would be to pull it off, or even the effects of the ability to pull off the VIP stance but i know it will lay it out and eliminate the sub frame issue.
speedaddict;431985 wrote:y you mad? :dance: I just mentioned the bodyline would be easy since they were working on the rear already. So now you're going to match the fronts with the rear, it will look good...
being educated on your platform has nothing to do with the looks of the bodyline. I do know about bodywork...
JDOX;431992 wrote:Why not take a page out of the mini truck scene,
While I'm far from an engineer of the M, could one possible do a body drop on the car? This would in tale cutting and raising the floor higher into the cabin ultimalty sitting the rockers lower, eliminating sub frame issue and laying the car out lower.
In the mini truck scene they do this to raise the frame up and the rockers down. In theory this would be the same thing. Since the M has a high roof line, say 3' body drop would sit the sub frame up 3' and the rockers down 3' without major impact on the head room within the vehicle like, a common problem with a body drop.
I'm not entirely sure how the M's engine compartment and trunk is and how extensive the mods would be to pull it off, or even the effects of the ability to pull off the VIP stance but i know it will lay it out and eliminate the sub frame issue.
[QUOTE=speedaddict;431985]y you mad? :dance: I just mentioned the bodyline would be easy since they were working on the rear already. So now you're going to match the fronts with the rear, it will look good... being educated on your platform has nothing to do with the looks of the bodyline. I do know about bodywork...[/QUOTE] I don't think he was referring to you. BTW, the front is getting fixed at the moment (or just got fixed actually), not the rear. [QUOTE=JDOX;431992]Why not take a page out of the mini truck scene, While I'm far from an engineer of the M, could one possible do a body drop on the car? This would in tale cutting and raising the floor higher into the cabin ultimalty sitting the rockers lower, eliminating sub frame issue and laying the car out lower. In the mini truck scene they do this to raise the frame up and the rockers down. In theory this would be the same thing. Since the M has a high roof line, say 3' body drop would sit the sub frame up 3' and the rockers down 3' without major impact on the head room within the vehicle like, a common problem with a body drop. I'm not entirely sure how the M's engine compartment and trunk is and how extensive the mods would be to pull it off, or even the effects of the ability to pull off the VIP stance but i know it will lay it out and eliminate the sub frame issue.[/QUOTE] I've actually built/owned a body dropped full size truck in the past. BUT, in order to body drop a vehicle, you need a frame to channel it over. Can't body drop a unibody car.
unibody y50 FTW!:dance:
I feel like some one just opened a can of worms here .. :pat:
Schnitz;431981 wrote:Seems like lots of uneducated opinions up in here. It's one thing to suggest and another to try and dictate what could previously have been done.
Unless you have specific knowledge of his platform its all theory.
[QUOTE=Schnitz;431981]Seems like lots of uneducated opinions up in here. It's one thing to suggest and another to try and dictate what could previously have been done. Unless you have specific knowledge of his platform its all theory.[/QUOTE] Couldn't agree more, so let's get some things straight: First and foremost, if you like the pull look then go for it. I personally think it looks sub-par, and is a permanent (to a reasonable extent) way to ruin a car chasing a trend. Regarding suspension, damping is the probably the single most irrelevant aspect to this issue. Correcting/controlling articulation will determine how the wheel/suspension moves when dynamic. Unfortunately, wheel specs and ride height is as far as most will ever get. A straight drop will always have more clearance than an angled pulled. The only reason pulls provide additional clearance is because they move the arch outwards and upwards. A straight drop that is cut and welded to the identical location will have more clearance. But who wants to do all that work? Having been under both platforms, I can say without a doubt that the UCF20 rails hang lower than the Y50 subframe. As a general rule, the older the car the lower the rails will be. Subframe clearance isn't even an issue when the rails hang lower. Inch for inch, the Y50 will drop more with less work. Y'all are comparing a very modified car to a very lightly modified car. Unibody cars can be "unibodydropped" by raising subframe mounting points/strut mounts.
i like it, good job chris!!! like to see what else you do
speedaddict;431985 wrote:y you mad? :dance: I just mentioned the bodyline would be easy since they were working on the rear already. So now you're going to match the fronts with the rear, it will look good...
being educated on your platform has nothing to do with the looks of the bodyline. I do know about bodywork...
[QUOTE=speedaddict;431985]y you mad? :dance: I just mentioned the bodyline would be easy since they were working on the rear already. So now you're going to match the fronts with the rear, it will look good... being educated on your platform has nothing to do with the looks of the bodyline. I do know about bodywork...[/QUOTE] Mad? Nothing about cars gets me mad. Not important enough. Sure commenting on body line preference has nothing to the platform. I wasn't referring to that. I was referring to all the comments regarding suspension etc.. But now there's suggestions about body dropping a unibody. It gets funnier with every post. You're into Porsche money on an Infiniti to do that. :pat: Not to mention finding a shop capable of it. Fact is, most on this site (in this scene...whatever) including me don't have even this small amount of body work on their cars yet everyone's an expert.
Schnitz;432148 wrote:
Fact is, most on this site (in this scene...whatever) including me don't have even this small amount of body work on their cars yet everyone's an expert.
[QUOTE=Schnitz;432148] Fact is, most on this site (in this scene...whatever) including me don't have even this small amount of body work on their cars yet everyone's an expert.[/QUOTE] QFT T+:werd2:
OG;432119 wrote:A straight drop will always have more clearance than an angled pulled. The only reason pulls provide additional clearance is because they move the arch outwards and upwards. A straight drop that is cut and welded to the identical location will have more clearance. But who wants to do all that work?
[QUOTE=OG;432119]A straight drop will always have more clearance than an angled pulled. The only reason pulls provide additional clearance is because they move the arch outwards and upwards. A straight drop that is cut and welded to the identical location will have more clearance. But who wants to do all that work?[/QUOTE] It's funny that you say that...I have plenty of clearance in the back throughout the range where I have the so called "pulled" look. It's up front, where I have the "straight drop" where I'm having an issue....not during normal driving but only when I turn the wheel. How is any variance in suspension geometry going to fix the fact that? As for the last comment about who wants to do all that work...it's more like, who's going to pay the bill for that work. I said before, that if I had an unlimited budget, i'd do things a bit differently. I didn't build this car for anyone else's enjoyment. I'm merely sharing it on here. If you don't like it, that's fine. Regardless of ANY of this, everyone's entitled to their opinion on how things [I]should[/I] look. In the end, it's my car and I have to like it. Not anyone else.
i like it buddy. =) no homo lol
OG;432119 wrote:
Having been under both platforms, I can say without a doubt that the UCF20 rails hang lower than the Y50 subframe. As a general rule, the older the car the lower the rails will be. Subframe clearance isn't even an issue when the rails hang lower. Inch for inch, the Y50 will drop more with less work. Y'all are comparing a very modified car to a very lightly modified car.
[QUOTE=OG;432119] Having been under both platforms, I can say without a doubt that the UCF20 rails hang lower than the Y50 subframe. As a general rule, the older the car the lower the rails will be. Subframe clearance isn't even an issue when the rails hang lower. Inch for inch, the Y50 will drop more with less work. Y'all are comparing a very modified car to a very lightly modified car. [/QUOTE] ^TRUTH, my frame rails are a bitch
From what I've seen the only way to have the side skirts touching the ground on a y50 is to extend them to hang lower as in add some more side skirt. The first thing to hit the ground on this car would be the sway bar and oil pan before any part of the body would.
seen the work in progress on FB...look forward to seeing the new wheels on the car.
Thanks bro. Trying to change things up a bit for this year. Bigger lips for the front, not to mention chrome, and a couple other accents on the wheels coming soon. [IMG]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/419678_10150588302006878_690241877_8794004_968137770_n.jpg[/IMG]
slvrstrk;437497 wrote:Thanks bro. Trying to change things up a bit for this year. Bigger lips for the front, not to mention chrome, and a couple other accents on the wheels coming soon.
[QUOTE=slvrstrk;437497]Thanks bro. Trying to change things up a bit for this year. Bigger lips for the front, not to mention chrome, and a couple other accents on the wheels coming soon. [IMG]http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/419678_10150588302006878_690241877_8794004_968137770_n.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE] Much better !!!!
wait til you see the hardware
nice
what wheels are on this car? i really like them
Luxury Abstract - Stella [URL]http://luxuryabstractblog.com/2011/09/02/stella/[/URL]
When are you gona mount the wheels with the new lips?
slvrstrk;432085 wrote:I don't think he was referring to you. BTW, the front is getting fixed at the moment (or just got fixed actually), not the rear.
I've actually built/owned a body dropped full size truck in the past. BUT, in order to body drop a vehicle, you need a frame to channel it over. Can't body drop a unibody car.
[QUOTE=slvrstrk;432085]I don't think he was referring to you. BTW, the front is getting fixed at the moment (or just got fixed actually), not the rear. I've actually built/owned a body dropped full size truck in the past. BUT, in order to body drop a vehicle, you need a frame to channel it over. Can't body drop a unibody car.[/QUOTE] i was lookin at the screen like :eek4wtf: lol but anyway the car looks great i wanna see the outcome
I've been waiting about a month for the inner barrels and bolts to show up and they finally did yesterday. Hopefully I have time to assemble and seal the wheels this weekend! Sneak peek for the time being... [IMG]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/423276_10150642981826878_690241877_8963884_202620471_n.jpg[/IMG]
Looking good!
Finally. [IMG]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/429111_10150658064306878_690241877_9011242_1814211418_n.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/421324_10150658064801878_690241877_9011248_87800089_n.jpg[/IMG]
much better
Damn! ThAt's a sick machine.
All clean.... [IMG]http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/536742_321630634568135_100001636045065_918296_1570664400_n.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/549813_321630697901462_100001636045065_918298_530489719_n.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/485667_321630814568117_100001636045065_918302_467626999_n.jpg[/IMG]
very nice
Looks way better!
So I spent the better part of yesterday shooting with Dave from Canibeat at a sick location in Doylestown. Can't wait to see the results! Till then, a few camera phone teasers... [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1785.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_8749.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/11secdsm/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6648.jpg[/IMG]
I told u not to park in the front of my castle. The back dude. Lol.
Is that castle even real, lol! Nioce pics....
Yes sir it is... [IMG]http://www.ronsaari.com/stockImages/pennsylvania/FonthillEstate.jpg[/IMG]
Those pics are gonna be epic
cant wait to see the final shots!
oh my gard! where you get the gold bolts from?
lowlyfey34;446865 wrote:oh my gard! where you get the gold bolts from?
[QUOTE=lowlyfey34;446865]oh my gard! where you get the gold bolts from?[/QUOTE] [url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/136-GOLD-SPLIT-RIM-BOLTS-M7-x-32-BBS-RS-WHEELS-A-OTHER-/190561245822?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c5e55da7e#ht_1952wt_956[/url]
cars lookin sik all cleaned up !!!!!!!! man that castle looks kool , all you need are some knights and horses , man where is that place at again ?!
1cleanM;446921 wrote:cars lookin sik all cleaned up !!!!!!!! man that castle looks kool , all you need are some knights and horses , man where is that place at again ?!
[QUOTE=1cleanM;446921]cars lookin sik all cleaned up !!!!!!!! man that castle looks kool , all you need are some knights and horses , man where is that place at again ?![/QUOTE] It's in Doylestown, PA...right outside of Philly. Five minutes from my house luckily. lol
My buddy Jerry (DNphotography) happened to be with us during this shoot. Here's his first edited photo. I'm in love.... [IMG]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5442/7063593689_62279ca19e_b.jpg[/IMG]
very purdy rear end
Moar pics...
As soon as I have some more, i'll post them up.
1 order of more pics please !!! :) cars lookin sweeeet !