JungleMatic;44438 wrote:Hey thanks! Get bent!
Club4ag forums are still down. No one wants to help takumi on zilvia, and you still can't get an account on zt. Life is hard, and welcome to vsc.
You will find yourself at home on these forums. There are lots of drifters, corolla, cressida, and 240 owners alike. In fact, we even have members forming threads about drifting your soon to own, vip car.
You are young and ambitious! Jumping right in, first post is a thread reaching with questions to advance your project! You surely chose the right technical section to ask your auto body questions, just maybe the wrong forum.
I apologize for my initial comment:
viplife;44390 wrote:
Hmm...
VIPStyleCars.com > VIP Style Technical Info > Exterior > Molding on CBY flares, AE86
Sorry, I thought I was in the newbie section on club4ag.
I am increasingly frustrated by the amount of non-vip posts and comments that flood this once semi-productive forum. The popularity rise of this forum attracts all kinds. Threads become more and more off-topic containing less and less about vip. With the fluctuation of new entrants to the vip style, opinions and expression quickly degrade the quality of precedence once set by forum members with significant vip experience. Unfortunately many senior members have turned read-only, or abandoned this forum all together.
While this cycle is experienced with most fad based forums, it's sad to see it happening here. It's pitiful to watch its deterioration.
In regards to your questions:
JungleMatic;44216 wrote:I've got some fiberglass CBY copies over a full vertex kit, FG as well. How would I go about molding them onto the body?
There are many ways to mold frp into your body panels. You can use the search feature to find several posts on vsc discussing such a topic. Some of them go into step-by-step procedures accompanied by photographs, commentary, and even reference to the specific product used in special situations.
The art of body work, is just that. It is an art, a skill, a trade. There are many helpful videos and books online, teaching the fundamentals of basic body work, and frp repair.
When you ask, "How would I go about molding them onto the body?" I wonder if this is a show car or a drift car. While you can find a nice compromise between the two (ie. showy drift car) there are always consequences to "racing" your "show car" especially when you've joined panels. I'm sure you've watched your share of doriten and option videos. You see that glass, panels, and yes, even your flimsy body kit will flex. I've seen door sills pull as far as 3" away from the body. Even after you install your cusco 8pt cage and spot weld your entire chassis like Keiichi's TRD car, you will find that your panels will still pull away when you drift your car hard.
If you have bonded (with foam, filler, or glass) then your flares will separate from whatever surface they have been joined. I'm going to go out on a limb and assume you will be painting over the filler/body work, which in turn would exhibit cracking and splitting after a short sliding session.
And while we are on the subject of sliding, a 10" wide wheel, with even a stretched tire is going to need a good amount of either speed or horsepower to break loose and, drift, as we know it today. The wider track both in front and rear will all come into play, making your car want to keep traction rather than break it. And after all the upgrades you plan on doing... building adjustable links, maybe raising the floor board to relocate them, constructing a watts linkage, turning bushings for rod ends, welding up your tubular adjustable control arms and milling your nrcas, they all increase traction. That tired 16 valve motor has no idea what it's in for.
So molding in the flares is a cool idea, because it looks dope... at the car show. I think it makes little sense to anyone who understand the functionality of such a car and its frp "upgrades". You may have your own spray booth and the ability to do repair body work before each national drift event, which in such a case, I say go for it! The hours in labor cost alone to maintain such an elaborate setup and aggressively drift with it would destroy someone without a salary or full-time job.
You continued:
JungleMatic;44216 wrote:I guess molding them onto the bumpers as well. I've got them screwed on right now.
I was thinking of cutting the flare at the top of the bumper so it can come off clean when I crash as well.
You could just lop off the flare where it meets the front bumper, but that only emphasizes the fact that none of the lines flow with the car. The flares without the cby kit already dont match, stopping the radius line of the flare abruptly will only magnify the mis-match.
Now if you were worried about >my< first concern of flex, you could slice a line in the flare where it meets the bumper, trim the lower negative portion so it fits snugly against the bumper and then extend the line of the flare much like many of today's modern cars fenders'.
This would accomplish several things. First it keeps breaking lines, maybe you could call it a theme... Second it will eliminate areas of high stress (bridges build with bondo). This way your bumper can flex up against the flare when you are at full lock at 80mph on irwindale's bank, without cracking all the bondo off, or completely pulling the flare away from the bumper/body until the next rivet.
The blending technique is also executed on vip sedans that have exaggerated flares. It only makes sense to continue the line of the flare back into the body, if a smoother transition is not opted for first.
There are three examples of continuing a wider than stock fender line, each image's blending becomes more subtle.
Naturally, for you to achieve such a look is probably not feasible. But I need to keep this post "vip" or the natives will become restless, and I would be a hypocrite.
Another idea might be a combination of the above, and pulling the bumper away from the stock mounting point to meet the flare. This won't be easily done since the flare is so big and the lines of the bumper were never intended to match.
This front bumper was moved about an inch out to meet the enlarged fender:
And your finale:
JungleMatic;44216 wrote:Do I just scuff both fender and body up, and then glass it on. Finish with bondo? I kind of want a bit of a radius going into the body. What would look good?
This would look good...
Words:
1) Flare riveted to the body
2) Other panels that has similar lines
3) Avoid Bondo
Pictures (not in relation to order above):
1)
2)
3)
View original BBCode
[QUOTE=JungleMatic;44438]Hey thanks! Get bent![/QUOTE]
Club4ag forums are still down. No one wants to help takumi on zilvia, and you still can't get an account on zt. Life is hard, and welcome to vsc.
You will find yourself at home on these forums. There are lots of drifters, corolla, cressida, and 240 owners alike. In fact, we even have members forming threads about drifting your soon to own, vip car.
You are young and ambitious! Jumping right in, first post is a thread reaching with questions to advance your project! You surely chose the right technical section to ask your auto body questions, just maybe the wrong forum.
I apologize for my initial comment:
[QUOTE=viplife;44390]
Hmm...
VIPStyleCars.com > VIP Style Technical Info > Exterior > Molding on CBY flares, AE86
Sorry, I thought I was in the newbie section on club4ag.
[/QUOTE]
I am increasingly frustrated by the amount of non-vip posts and comments that flood this once semi-productive forum. The popularity rise of this forum attracts all kinds. Threads become more and more off-topic containing less and less about vip. With the fluctuation of new entrants to the vip style, opinions and expression quickly degrade the quality of precedence once set by forum members with significant vip experience. Unfortunately many senior members have turned read-only, or abandoned this forum all together.
While this cycle is experienced with most fad based forums, it's sad to see it happening here. It's pitiful to watch its deterioration.
In regards to your questions:
[QUOTE=JungleMatic;44216]I've got some fiberglass CBY copies over a full vertex kit, FG as well. How would I go about molding them onto the body?
[IMG]http://www.dynamicsoaring.ca/86/86%20Hatch/hotness.JPG[/IMG]
[/QUOTE]
There are many ways to mold frp into your body panels. You can use the search feature to find several posts on vsc discussing such a topic. Some of them go into step-by-step procedures accompanied by photographs, commentary, and even reference to the specific product used in special situations.
The art of body work, is just that. It is an art, a skill, a trade. There are many helpful videos and books online, teaching the fundamentals of basic body work, and frp repair.
When you ask, "How would I go about molding them onto the body?" I wonder if this is a show car or a drift car. While you can find a nice compromise between the two (ie. showy drift car) there are always consequences to "racing" your "show car" especially when you've joined panels. I'm sure you've watched your share of doriten and option videos. You see that glass, panels, and yes, even your flimsy body kit will flex. I've seen door sills pull as far as 3" away from the body. Even after you install your cusco 8pt cage and spot weld your entire chassis like Keiichi's TRD car, you will find that your panels will still pull away when you drift your car hard.
If you have bonded (with foam, filler, or glass) then your flares will separate from whatever surface they have been joined. I'm going to go out on a limb and assume you will be painting over the filler/body work, which in turn would exhibit cracking and splitting after a short sliding session.
And while we are on the subject of sliding, a 10" wide wheel, with even a stretched tire is going to need a good amount of either speed or horsepower to break loose and, drift, as we know it today. The wider track both in front and rear will all come into play, making your car want to keep traction rather than break it. And after all the upgrades you plan on doing... building adjustable links, maybe raising the floor board to relocate them, constructing a watts linkage, turning bushings for rod ends, welding up your tubular adjustable control arms and milling your nrcas, they all increase traction. That tired 16 valve motor has no idea what it's in for.
So molding in the flares is a cool idea, because it looks dope... at the car show. I think it makes little sense to anyone who understand the functionality of such a car and its frp "upgrades". You may have your own spray booth and the ability to do repair body work before each national drift event, which in such a case, I say go for it! The hours in labor cost alone to maintain such an elaborate setup and aggressively drift with it would destroy someone without a salary or full-time job.
You continued:
[QUOTE=JungleMatic;44216]I guess molding them onto the bumpers as well. I've got them screwed on right now.
I was thinking of cutting the flare at the top of the bumper so it can come off clean when I crash as well.
[/QUOTE]
You could just lop off the flare where it meets the front bumper, but that only emphasizes the fact that none of the lines flow with the car. The flares without the cby kit already dont match, stopping the radius line of the flare abruptly will only magnify the mis-match.
[img]http://www.angrylife.com/temp/cby01.jpg[/img]
Now if you were worried about >my< first concern of flex, you could slice a line in the flare where it meets the bumper, trim the lower negative portion so it fits snugly against the bumper and then extend the line of the flare much like many of today's modern cars fenders'.
This would accomplish several things. First it keeps breaking lines, maybe you could call it a theme... Second it will eliminate areas of high stress (bridges build with bondo). This way your bumper can flex up against the flare when you are at full lock at 80mph on irwindale's bank, without cracking all the bondo off, or completely pulling the flare away from the bumper/body until the next rivet.
The blending technique is also executed on vip sedans that have exaggerated flares. It only makes sense to continue the line of the flare back into the body, if a smoother transition is not opted for first.
There are three examples of continuing a wider than stock fender line, each image's blending becomes more subtle.
[img]http://www.angrylife.com/temp/blend01.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.angrylife.com/temp/blend02.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.angrylife.com/temp/blend03.jpg[/img]
Naturally, for you to achieve such a look is probably not feasible. But I need to keep this post "vip" or the natives will become restless, and I would be a hypocrite.
Another idea might be a combination of the above, and pulling the bumper away from the stock mounting point to meet the flare. This won't be easily done since the flare is so big and the lines of the bumper were never intended to match.
This front bumper was moved about an inch out to meet the enlarged fender:
[img]http://www.angrylife.com/temp/stretch01.jpg[/img]
And your finale:
[QUOTE=JungleMatic;44216]Do I just scuff both fender and body up, and then glass it on. Finish with bondo? I kind of want a bit of a radius going into the body. What would look good?
[/QUOTE]
This would look good...
Words:
1) Flare riveted to the body
2) Other panels that has similar lines
3) Avoid Bondo
Pictures (not in relation to order above):
1)
[img]http://www.angrylife.com/temp/cby02.jpg[/img]
2)
[img]http://www.angrylife.com/temp/cby03.jpg[/img]
3)
[img]http://www.angrylife.com/temp/cby04.jpg[/img]
