SOURCE:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/y33-to-s13-suspension-faq-yes-you-read-right-t285836.html
DIY S14/S14 on your Y33 conversion
First you need to get the parts
Either obtain ALL s13 or ALL s14 makes life easy
1. LCA
2. Knuckle
3.5lug front hub
4. Coil over
5. Aftermarket S13/14/15/z32 are all the same and fit outer tie rods (ill explain why later)
6. Aftermarket tension rods (might as well right?) S14 work on this instance, I’m sure 13 would as well since they are adjustable. S14 is longer than 13
7. Y33 top hats
ALL BOLT SIZES ARE FROM MY HEAD, IE MIGHT NOT BE ACCURATE
Ok, the ONLY downside is the sway bar
I disconnected mine because I didn’t have time
But what ill end up doing is drill a hole through it, and using an s13 sway bar mount bolted directly to it. It won’t be at the exact same mounting points, but I will work.
Okokokokok
I’ll get to the actual conversion
1. Remove your brakes from the knuckles, and put them aside somewhere (zip tie helps to hold it up).
2. Remove the sway bar vertical bracket, its an internally wrenching bolt, so you need to hold it with an Allen head, then use a 14mm wrench to remove the nut, slide the brace out, and do the same for the bottom, but it’s a 17mm I believe.
3. Remove the tension rod bolts to the LCA. Bottom are 14mm, top are Allen (on my application I had tension rods already)
4. Loosen the LCA bolt to the sub frame, 19mm on both sides. Take the nut off, leave the bolt to support it.
5. Take off the upper suspension top hat nuts, and let it drop. Be sure to hold it so it doesn’t smack you in the nuts like it did me the first time.
6. Smack out that LCA bolt and BAM its out. Throw it to the side.
7. Put the Y33 top hats on your new coilovers.
OK for installation you need to pay attention to a few things.
1. Make sure your new coilovers have appropriate springs. When I order my new coilovers soon I’m going with a 12/10 so when I put airbags on it, it will be valved correctly for the stiffness I want. Everyone will be different.
2. Install the hub on the knuckle, and the new tie rod ends onto the tie rod.
3. READ THIS PART******************************
If YOU DO NOT HAVE THE AFTERMARKET TIE ROD ENDS YOU WILL HAVE TO BORE OUT THE BUSHING THAT THE TIEROD SHOULD GO INTO. I DON’T HAVE A MEASUREMENT, I COMPLETELY FORGOT TO WRITE IT DOWN, BUT JUST DREMEL, AND TEST FIT…OVER AND OVER.
4. install from reverse
5. I recommend LCA first, then tension rod, then tie rod end, and then install the shock to the body, then the knuckle to the shock.
6. Install your old brake rotor, and caliper, and put on your wheel after you double check and make sure everything is tightened.
Now would be a good time to do a brake upgrade if you want to. I put on GTR calipers with R33 brake rotors. Bolts directly up using the lines that came on the brakes on the gtr.
Other than that, it’s fairly straightforward. If you’re not doing hella aggressive driving don’t even worry about the Sway bar in the front. Only reason I am is because I want to track my car next year, so I need it. Also, if you don’t get ABS hubs, you won’t have it. I got NON ABS hubs, because I HATE abs. I don’t like electronics getting in my way of the feel of the road.
Regardless ill go with a few meters
DIFFICULTY-7 mainly because of the common sense needed that a lot of people don’t have. You may have to source hardware if you don’t have it for things like the coilovers mounting on the knuckle. Also if you change your brakes you have to know how to bleed them etc etc.
TIME- It shouldn’t take you more than 4 hours from start to finish
It took me 3, and I changed my brakes, bled the entire system, put trust brake fluid in and rebled the whole system, and then installed everything, forgot to change out the springs, dropped the strut to change springs, then the tie rod end didn’t fit so I had to bore it out etc ect.
So even if your dumb it shouldn’t take more than 4 hours.
Now get out there and do it!
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SOURCE: [url]http://forums.nicoclub.com/y33-to-s13-suspension-faq-yes-you-read-right-t285836.html[/url]
DIY S14/S14 on your Y33 conversion
First you need to get the parts
Either obtain ALL s13 or ALL s14 makes life easy
1. LCA
2. Knuckle
3.5lug front hub
4. Coil over
5. Aftermarket S13/14/15/z32 are all the same and fit outer tie rods (ill explain why later)
6. Aftermarket tension rods (might as well right?) S14 work on this instance, I’m sure 13 would as well since they are adjustable. S14 is longer than 13
7. Y33 top hats
ALL BOLT SIZES ARE FROM MY HEAD, IE MIGHT NOT BE ACCURATE
Ok, the ONLY downside is the sway bar
I disconnected mine because I didn’t have time
But what ill end up doing is drill a hole through it, and using an s13 sway bar mount bolted directly to it. It won’t be at the exact same mounting points, but I will work.
Okokokokok
I’ll get to the actual conversion
1. Remove your brakes from the knuckles, and put them aside somewhere (zip tie helps to hold it up).
2. Remove the sway bar vertical bracket, its an internally wrenching bolt, so you need to hold it with an Allen head, then use a 14mm wrench to remove the nut, slide the brace out, and do the same for the bottom, but it’s a 17mm I believe.
3. Remove the tension rod bolts to the LCA. Bottom are 14mm, top are Allen (on my application I had tension rods already)
4. Loosen the LCA bolt to the sub frame, 19mm on both sides. Take the nut off, leave the bolt to support it.
5. Take off the upper suspension top hat nuts, and let it drop. Be sure to hold it so it doesn’t smack you in the nuts like it did me the first time.
6. Smack out that LCA bolt and BAM its out. Throw it to the side.
7. Put the Y33 top hats on your new coilovers.
OK for installation you need to pay attention to a few things.
1. Make sure your new coilovers have appropriate springs. When I order my new coilovers soon I’m going with a 12/10 so when I put airbags on it, it will be valved correctly for the stiffness I want. Everyone will be different.
2. Install the hub on the knuckle, and the new tie rod ends onto the tie rod.
3. READ THIS PART******************************
If YOU DO NOT HAVE THE AFTERMARKET TIE ROD ENDS YOU WILL HAVE TO BORE OUT THE BUSHING THAT THE TIEROD SHOULD GO INTO. I DON’T HAVE A MEASUREMENT, I COMPLETELY FORGOT TO WRITE IT DOWN, BUT JUST DREMEL, AND TEST FIT…OVER AND OVER.
4. install from reverse
5. I recommend LCA first, then tension rod, then tie rod end, and then install the shock to the body, then the knuckle to the shock.
6. Install your old brake rotor, and caliper, and put on your wheel after you double check and make sure everything is tightened.
Now would be a good time to do a brake upgrade if you want to. I put on GTR calipers with R33 brake rotors. Bolts directly up using the lines that came on the brakes on the gtr.
Other than that, it’s fairly straightforward. If you’re not doing hella aggressive driving don’t even worry about the Sway bar in the front. Only reason I am is because I want to track my car next year, so I need it. Also, if you don’t get ABS hubs, you won’t have it. I got NON ABS hubs, because I HATE abs. I don’t like electronics getting in my way of the feel of the road.
Regardless ill go with a few meters
DIFFICULTY-7 mainly because of the common sense needed that a lot of people don’t have. You may have to source hardware if you don’t have it for things like the coilovers mounting on the knuckle. Also if you change your brakes you have to know how to bleed them etc etc.
TIME- It shouldn’t take you more than 4 hours from start to finish
It took me 3, and I changed my brakes, bled the entire system, put trust brake fluid in and rebled the whole system, and then installed everything, forgot to change out the springs, dropped the strut to change springs, then the tie rod end didn’t fit so I had to bore it out etc ect.
So even if your dumb it shouldn’t take more than 4 hours.
Now get out there and do it!
