Rookie at building new wheels...need assistance on offsets
I could really use your help. I have a 4th Generation Lexus GS350 F-Sport RWD and have just started the process of building a set of 3 piece forged wheels. There's only one problem....I don't know what offset to go with and the company building my wheels is at a standstill until I figure out what I want as they don't want to build me a set of wheels that I won't be happy with. I figured it would be easy. Low offset, narrow tire and you're G! Not exactly. The new GS is a mid to high offset car.
This is the first time that I am building my own set of wheels and it's becoming really stressful, because I am specific about how I want the wheels to sit once on the car. I am not on air, but running a static drop on coilovers. I want the wheels to look flush, but show just the tiniest bit of poke if that makes sense.
I would prefer to do a 20x10 and 20x11 setup and will settle with 20x9.5 and 20x10.5 with a fender roll and if necessary a pull, but I do not want to do extreme body work in order to get the wheels to fit. Also don't want to run excessive camber to get the wheels to fit. I will be running 225/30/20 and 245 or 255/30/20 tires.
The car won't be sitting extremely low. A two-finger gap is more likely. I am not going to be tucking tire.
I apologize if I am trying to cop your style, but this is this is what I am trying to look like. I just want it to look like 4DGS in these pictures in which if you look at the car from the front, you can see the wheels poke just a tad bit. I just want to achieve this look:
I don't want this look, but he's in the negatives:
If any of you can assist, I'd appreciate it. The company is literally waiting on me before they can go ahead with the build.
View original BBCode
I could really use your help. I have a 4th Generation Lexus GS350 F-Sport RWD and have just started the process of building a set of 3 piece forged wheels. There's only one problem....I don't know what offset to go with and the company building my wheels is at a standstill until I figure out what I want as they don't want to build me a set of wheels that I won't be happy with. I figured it would be easy. Low offset, narrow tire and you're G! Not exactly. The new GS is a mid to high offset car.
This is the first time that I am building my own set of wheels and it's becoming really stressful, because I am specific about how I want the wheels to sit once on the car. I am not on air, but running a static drop on coilovers. I want the wheels to look flush, but show just the tiniest bit of poke if that makes sense.
I would prefer to do a 20x10 and 20x11 setup and will settle with 20x9.5 and 20x10.5 with a fender roll and if necessary a pull, but I do not want to do extreme body work in order to get the wheels to fit. Also don't want to run excessive camber to get the wheels to fit. I will be running 225/30/20 and 245 or 255/30/20 tires.
The car won't be sitting extremely low. A two-finger gap is more likely. I am not going to be tucking tire.
I apologize if I am trying to cop your style, but this is this is what I am trying to look like. I just want it to look like 4DGS in these pictures in which if you look at the car from the front, you can see the wheels poke just a tad bit. I just want to achieve this look:
[URL="http://s12.photobucket.com/user/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/media/G352_zps7c591304.jpg.html"][IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/G352_zps7c591304.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL="http://s12.photobucket.com/user/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/media/G35_zps29058042.jpg.html"][IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/G35_zps29058042.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
I don't want this look, but he's in the negatives:
[URL="http://s12.photobucket.com/user/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/media/Notthis_zpsaba6c4f9.jpg.html"][IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/Notthis_zpsaba6c4f9.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
If any of you can assist, I'd appreciate it. The company is literally waiting on me before they can go ahead with the build.
a lot to consider, going to have air later ? keeping coils ? have you looked at some of the sites that offer TONS of info on wheels sizes or have anyone in your area you can take it to measure for you or show you how ?
just some input.
View original BBCode
a lot to consider, going to have air later ? keeping coils ? have you looked at some of the sites that offer TONS of info on wheels sizes or have anyone in your area you can take it to measure for you or show you how ?
just some input.
I am not going to be going with air. This is actually the car I use to drive my clients around to lunch sometimes. Staying static on coils. I know that wheels are 1/3 of the equation, with the other being tires, as well as suspension.
I've looked at a ton of pictures, clublexus, all the stance websites, youtube and all I can provide them is pictures of how I want the car to sit, but that isn't much to work with. www.Tyrestretch.com and www.willtheyfit.com among others.
All the threads on here in regards to what will work for this car. I just don't want the sunk in look, even the slightest bit of it will not suffice. If I can attain that G35 look, I'll be happy, regardless of whether the offset is high or low.
View original BBCode
I am not going to be going with air. This is actually the car I use to drive my clients around to lunch sometimes. Staying static on coils. I know that wheels are 1/3 of the equation, with the other being tires, as well as suspension.
I've looked at a ton of pictures, clublexus, all the stance websites, youtube and all I can provide them is pictures of how I want the car to sit, but that isn't much to work with. [url]www.Tyrestretch.com[/url] and [url]www.willtheyfit.com[/url] among others.
All the threads on here in regards to what will work for this car. I just don't want the sunk in look, even the slightest bit of it will not suffice. If I can attain that G35 look, I'll be happy, regardless of whether the offset is high or low.
my brother in law has a 13 gs fsport and he's about to order wheels too. after a cursory glance at his car (i haven't done any measurements), going from the fsport x8/x9 to a x10/x11 you're going to need a lot of camber and a pull. i'd say ideally a x9/x10 with high teen to low 20s offset would probably be best if you don't want body work and/or crazy camber, it'll just be harder to find tires to stretch for tight fitment for a x9.
if you don't know where to measure for fitment, your best bet would be to borrow some 20s from someone and see how much room you have to play with once at your desired ride height.
View original BBCode
my brother in law has a 13 gs fsport and he's about to order wheels too. after a cursory glance at his car (i haven't done any measurements), going from the fsport x8/x9 to a x10/x11 you're going to need a lot of camber and a pull. i'd say ideally a x9/x10 with high teen to low 20s offset would probably be best if you don't want body work and/or crazy camber, it'll just be harder to find tires to stretch for tight fitment for a x9.
if you don't know where to measure for fitment, your best bet would be to borrow some 20s from someone and see how much room you have to play with once at your desired ride height.
I have decided to do a 20x9.5 and 20x10.5 on 225/30 or 235/30 and 245/30 or 255/30 tires unless they can up the sizes by 0.5" and see if it's possible. Looking at +18 front and +22 rear right now. Not crazy aggressive by any means. I will be doing a fender roll and if necessary a pull, but not a fan of really shaving the quarter panel on a brand new car. I will camber, but I do not want to go insane and get to >-5 degrees just to get them to fit. Not my cup of tea. Ideally, what I want is for the fender to sit right in the middle between the gap of the stretched tire and lip of the wheel. That small gap right there is where I want
Also will not be riding tucking tires. Pretty conservative drop, a 2-3 finger gap.
View original BBCode
I have decided to do a 20x9.5 and 20x10.5 on 225/30 or 235/30 and 245/30 or 255/30 tires unless they can up the sizes by 0.5" and see if it's possible. Looking at +18 front and +22 rear right now. Not crazy aggressive by any means. I will be doing a fender roll and if necessary a pull, but not a fan of really shaving the quarter panel on a brand new car. I will camber, but I do not want to go insane and get to >-5 degrees just to get them to fit. Not my cup of tea. Ideally, what I want is for the fender to sit right in the middle between the gap of the stretched tire and lip of the wheel. That small gap right there is where I want
Also will not be riding tucking tires. Pretty conservative drop, a 2-3 finger gap.
username86;508521 wrote: Ideally, what I want is for the fender to sit right in the middle between the gap of the stretched tire and lip of the wheel. That small gap right there is where I want
Also will not be riding tucking tires. Pretty conservative drop, a 2-3 finger gap.
You do realize that you're more or less staying at stock height with a 2-3 finger gap? Stretched tires and pulled fenders are going to look ridiculous at that height. May I suggest a higher offset and thicker tires? (A "CL-type" fitment, if you will.)
View original BBCode
[QUOTE=username86;508521] Ideally, what I want is for the fender to sit right in the middle between the gap of the stretched tire and lip of the wheel. That small gap right there is where I want
Also will not be riding tucking tires. Pretty conservative drop, a 2-3 finger gap.[/QUOTE]
You do realize that you're more or less staying at stock height with a 2-3 finger gap? Stretched tires and pulled fenders are going to look ridiculous at that height. May I suggest a higher offset and thicker tires? (A "CL-type" fitment, if you will.)
this is what i wrote based off your similar question on CL:
i measured my front and rear and then ordered specifically what i wanted. my rear now sits like that g35 in your first pic which is exactly what i planned.
how low you put your car will determine how wide you can safely run and how much 'natural' negative camber you will have. just remember you have to drive/steer the car so the fronts can't be hella flush without air for the average user
and honestly you don't sound like a seasoned vet in this game,, yet.... but you have the right mindset.
the best thing to do is to test fit like you menitoned you have the wheels to do already, which is awesome. lower the car to the height you want, slap a 20 on if you want 20's, then measure how much more space you have before hitting the fender. then add the known offset to the amount of additional space needed to fill the gap. just run a slight stretch and you should be golden.
just remember you have to drive the car/turn. so you may have some rubbing issues like fender liner etc that you will have to remediate.
View original BBCode
this is what i wrote based off your similar question on CL:
i measured my front and rear and then ordered specifically what i wanted. my rear now sits like that g35 in your first pic which is exactly what i planned.
how low you put your car will determine how wide you can safely run and how much 'natural' negative camber you will have. just remember you have to drive/steer the car so the fronts can't be hella flush without air for the average user [IMG]http://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif[/IMG] and honestly you don't sound like a seasoned vet in this game,, yet.... but you have the right mindset.
the best thing to do is to test fit like you menitoned you have the wheels to do already, which is awesome. lower the car to the height you want, slap a 20 on if you want 20's, then measure how much more space you have before hitting the fender. then add the known offset to the amount of additional space needed to fill the gap. just run a slight stretch and you should be golden.
just remember you have to drive the car/turn. so you may have some rubbing issues like fender liner etc that you will have to remediate.
the rear wheels on that g35 in the second pic look close to -4 degrees negative camber to me personally, possibly -3.5...
it is a real tough thing to do. and you will want to lower the car down enough to start tucking tire thus leaving no tire gap between top of tire and fender in order to get any of these vip looks.
even if you don't have test fitting wheels you can still measure by taking off the wheel, put a ruler or something flat on the rotor so it sticks out towards the outside of the car, then take a piece of string with a weight on it and hold it at the 12 o'clock position of the fender and measure where the weight/string touches the ruler at.
you will also want to measure the thickness of your caliper; as in how much does it stick out past the rotor by putting a ruler flat on the caliper and another ruler on the rotor and see how much back pad you will need to clear the caliper. on my previous LS the rear was like 5mm and the front was like 15 or 20mm i forget which. it is nearly identical on my current toyota crown which i was told is based off the 3gs chassis.
or you could just play it safe with a moderately aggressive setup and just be prepared to add a spacer after you mount them and figure out how much space you want to fill ;)
***something like F 9" 225x35x20 R 10" 245x35x20 or F 9.5" 225x35x20 R 10.5" 255 or 265x30x20 with 2" outer lips front and 3" outer lips rear, or 2.5" outer lips front and 3.5" outer lips rear***
View original BBCode
the rear wheels on that g35 in the second pic look close to -4 degrees negative camber to me personally, possibly -3.5...
it is a real tough thing to do. and you will want to lower the car down enough to start tucking tire thus leaving no tire gap between top of tire and fender in order to get any of these vip looks.
even if you don't have test fitting wheels you can still measure by taking off the wheel, put a ruler or something flat on the rotor so it sticks out towards the outside of the car, then take a piece of string with a weight on it and hold it at the 12 o'clock position of the fender and measure where the weight/string touches the ruler at.
you will also want to measure the thickness of your caliper; as in how much does it stick out past the rotor by putting a ruler flat on the caliper and another ruler on the rotor and see how much back pad you will need to clear the caliper. on my previous LS the rear was like 5mm and the front was like 15 or 20mm i forget which. it is nearly identical on my current toyota crown which i was told is based off the 3gs chassis.
or you could just play it safe with a moderately aggressive setup and just be prepared to add a spacer after you mount them and figure out how much space you want to fill ;)
***something like F 9" 225x35x20 R 10" 245x35x20 or F 9.5" 225x35x20 R 10.5" 255 or 265x30x20 with 2" outer lips front and 3" outer lips rear, or 2.5" outer lips front and 3.5" outer lips rear***
the f sport has a bbk in front, so you have to take that into consideration as well.
View original BBCode
the f sport has a bbk in front, so you have to take that into consideration as well.
View original BBCode
I am going low, but not to the extent of tucking tire. One or two finger gap. I drove the car slammed for a few days with 25MM spacers on the front and back on my OEM wheels to get the springs to settle and there is no rubbing at all on the fender liner, except for when I hit one major dip. After the alignment with the toe set at 0 and running 2.5 degrees camber all around. Full lock and no rubbing. As of right now, preliminary offsets are 20x9.5 (ET18) and 20x11 (ET 28). This is going to change slightly if you guys have suggestions.
Here is my friends 18x10 wheel ET25 on a 245/40/18 tire on my car. Excuse the wheel gap. His wheels are tiny. With his setup, what would you guys recommend as far as offsets? I know it's hard to go on, based on the pictures.
[URL=http://s12.photobucket.com/user/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/media/20140310_135138_zps476a5d78.jpg.html][IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/20140310_135138_zps476a5d78.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s12.photobucket.com/user/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/media/20140310_135121_zpse2c95eb9.jpg.html][IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/20140310_135121_zpse2c95eb9.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s12.photobucket.com/user/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/media/20140310_135114_zpsd569bb7a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/20140310_135114_zpsd569bb7a.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s12.photobucket.com/user/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/media/20140310_135106_zpsb82e4cf8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/xxvietxb0ixt0ixx/20140310_135106_zpsb82e4cf8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
sojah;508536 wrote:the rear wheels on that g35 in the second pic look close to -4 degrees negative camber to me personally, possibly -3.5...
In the second pic about -7 degrees. Just shy.
First pic -4.6
OP, you really need to sit down with some buddies wheels and just get an idea then move inward or outward from there. New platforms are tough as you have little to nothing to base your build off. Or do what I did. Just order specs you think you might be able to fit and make em fit.... lol
But yea, tuck tire, you can still tuck tire and drive daily static. A'int no thang haha
View original BBCode
[QUOTE=sojah;508536]the rear wheels on that g35 in the second pic look close to -4 degrees negative camber to me personally, possibly -3.5...
[/QUOTE]
In the second pic about -7 degrees. Just shy.
First pic -4.6
OP, you really need to sit down with some buddies wheels and just get an idea then move inward or outward from there. New platforms are tough as you have little to nothing to base your build off. Or do what I did. Just order specs you think you might be able to fit and make em fit.... lol
But yea, tuck tire, you can still tuck tire and drive daily static. A'int no thang haha
