G50 Front "Third Link" Arm Shortening Discussion..

So, I'm quickly realizing that to achieve the desired ride height up front the "Third Arm" will need to be shortened. For those wondering what the hell I'm talking about here's a picture:

[img]http://www.dressupbolts.com/wp-content/gallery/q45-build/suspension.jpg[/img]


Now, I know there are several companies in Japan that sell these already shortened and ready to bolt on. However, shortening it is pretty straight forward. So has anyone done this at this point? If so to save some trial and error how much did you shorten it? If not I'll get and extra set and post the process and results. If you have any ideas or input feel free to add to the discussion! 

I'll be adding an adjustable upper control arm while I'm at it.

For the GS/Aristo one company in Japan sells 40mm shorter knuckles, so I had my local cnc shop cut 38mm of mine and they even strengthened it with 10mm steel plates two sides when they welded it back together.

This pic show the seems before I cleaned it up:
[IMG]http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb327/Lord_Juzzo/HPIM4914.jpg[/IMG]

I shortened mine because my UCA's were maxed out, and I couldn't get any lower with the 20" f/wheels. Plus this "should" correct my UCA angles so the ride should be better, and got rid of UCA-bang =)

I don't see any reason why you should send your steering knuckles other side of the globe for this. As any reputable metal place could easily do this mod under quarter of the price the Jap shops ask... For my arms they said it took 3hours and ended up paying 120€. Not bad in my mind.

Thanks for the info! Great post :) 

I was planning on doing this myself, just wanted to get some insight and opinions. Thanks for sharing!

my body/suspension shop cuts teeth into the knuckle for added safety so it doesn't move out of place.  Then they weld it back together

An easier way would be just to mill up a piece so it fits into the spindle that accommodates a s13/14 style coilover. Weld that in, and bolt the coilover to that. this way you ditch that control arm. You would have to modify the upper strut tower to fit a three bolt system vs the two bolt.. but this way you can slam it all out and camber it way easier. 

Maybe this isnt an easier way, but it is what I am doing to my s14 to accommodate the skyline gtr front spindle on a s14.

what do you hope to achieve by shortening the arm?
 
i've had my q pretty much on the ground and didn't have clearance issues like a lot of lexus. the other benefit would be geometry correction. cutting that link will not make the car any lower.

i would think it would top out on the wheel well if it wasn't.

[QUOTE=OG;390926]what do you hope to achieve by shortening the arm?
 
i've had my q pretty much on the ground and didn't have clearance issues like a lot of lexus. the other benefit would be geometry correction. cutting that link will not make the car any lower.[/QUOTE]

It will allow you to DRIVE lower. At the moment, the upper control arm hits the shock tower under compression when driving at pretty low heights. This will eliminate that. Sure, I can park low as shit, anyone on bags can do that but whats the point if it's not drivable at or near that height? This is what I'm trying to achieve. I'm actually considering switching back to coilovers, but haven't made a final decision yet. We'll see once this arm is shortened how it rides at the height I need it to be at for the fenders. 

There are a lot of clearence issues on the G50 when you start driving at silly low heights (IE tucking wheel on the stock front fender), most are easily solved in the rear (mini tub), but the front has it's limitations in stock form.

[QUOTE=widebody_Q;390900]my body/suspension shop cuts teeth into the knuckle for added safety so it doesn't move out of place.  Then they weld it back together[/QUOTE]

Good tip! Thanks

[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;390924]An easier way would be just to mill up a piece so it fits into the spindle that accommodates a s13/14 style coilover. Weld that in, and bolt the coilover to that. this way you ditch that control arm. You would have to modify the upper strut tower to fit a three bolt system vs the two bolt.. but this way you can slam it all out and camber it way easier. 

Maybe this isnt an easier way, but it is what I am doing to my s14 to accommodate the skyline gtr front spindle on a s14.[/QUOTE]

Interesting thought, although I'm not sure I would say it's easier! haha 



For reference:

This is what the control arm looks like on the garage freedom G50:
[img]http://www.garage-freedom.com/img/gf_05_a4.jpg[/img]

And this is the ride height:
[img]http://www.garage-freedom.com/img/gf_05_a1.jpg[/img]


At a similar ride height on a stock arm the upper control arm is essentially resting on the shock tower.

[QUOTE=jzz30tt;391016]It will allow you to DRIVE lower. At the moment, the upper control arm hits the shock tower under compression when driving at pretty low heights. This will eliminate that. Sure, I can park low as shit, anyone on bags can do that but whats the point if it's not drivable at or near that height? This is what I'm trying to achieve. I'm actually considering switching back to coilovers, but haven't made a final decision yet. We'll see once this arm is shortened how it rides at the height I need it to be at for the fenders. 
 
There are a lot of clearence issues on the G50 when you start driving at silly low heights (IE tucking wheel on the stock front fender), most are easily solved in the rear (mini tub), but the front has it's limitations in stock form.[/QUOTE]
 
gotcha.

Better get to cuttin man! i wanna see this haha

[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;391040]Better get to cuttin man! i wanna see this haha[/QUOTE]

Any pics of your progress on your S14 with GTR spindles?

When i get them back from my buddy who is milling it up lol.

I didn't want to do it this way, but it is the easiest and two others have done it, just i am doing it a bit different. Maybe i will make them to sell. Coilovers with the adapter and different upper pillow ball mounts.... hmmm!

i'm interested to see what you come up with, take measurements as you go, thanks :biggthumpup:

Where do you buy the bolt on one?

[QUOTE=CrazyHawaiian;391774]Where do you buy the bolt on one?[/QUOTE]

I forget the name of the company, but I'm pretty sure you have to send in your oem ones as cores.

[QUOTE=jzz30tt;391801]I forget the name of the company, but I'm pretty sure you have to send in your oem ones as cores.[/QUOTE]
Yeap that's right, and for the GS/Aristo's only the modifications were around 600$+ plus shipping ALOT :pat:

Can I get a link to their site

Hmmm interesting. I never had clearance issues while tucking to rim(19's) on coils.

[QUOTE=urmyhero4now;393551]Hmmm interesting. I never had clearance issues while tucking to rim(19's) on coils.[/QUOTE]

But can you drive it that way, without hitting the strut tower? 


Whats up with your car anyway?

i'm starting to wonder if z32/r32 gtr third links would be shorter. anybody got any laying around?

yup :biggthumpup:

wanna get a measurment for me?

[QUOTE=OG;395509]i'm starting to wonder if z32/r32 gtr third links would be shorter. anybody got any laying around?[/QUOTE]

Interesting.. I think I have a set of Z32 kicking around somewhere too.. I'll check it out.

yeah, i will when i hit up my unit. I should have some layin around still. you want overall length of the arm or certain points?

length from upper to lower mouting points.

The lengths are definitely very close if not the same.

I tried to install Z32 lower control arms and third links on to Q45 upper control arms and after market tension rods. No good, the geometry is off by a few degrees too much to push the last bolt all the way through on either the lower control arm or upper control or tension rod; pick any two you want but the third wasn't going to make it Lol.

these are all Z32 parts, the Q45 is out loan at the moment so can't compare anything...

[IMG]http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae74/JustinMroczkowski/0da7b304.jpg[/IMG]
10.5 incches long


[IMG]http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae74/JustinMroczkowski/d22f645a.jpg[/IMG]
6.25 inches


[IMG]http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/ae74/JustinMroczkowski/42990042.jpg[/IMG]
14 inches

thanks. i should be tearing down my front suspension relatively soon  so i'll post comparisons.

Ordered a set of spare third arms today.. I'll update as the shortening takes shape.. only question is how much to shorten.. haha

[QUOTE=jzz30tt;419281]Ordered a set of spare third arms today.. I'll update as the shortening takes shape.. only question is how much to shorten.. haha[/QUOTE]

I'll also have to this soon cause arms hit every bump lol

how the crap are you guys that low and it hits? i can barly move 15ft without scrapping my oil pan. wtf, i thought i was low...

Mine does not hit either. But I don't have that smaller adjustable link up top, and I can imagine with extreme camber all the clearances and angles change. I'm also not as low as some of you guys. The only real problem I've had with that 3rd link is the rim itself hitting (previous set), or just barely making it (current set). The other problem I have is that I think it just looks like shit. A tubular adjustable version would be awesome, form and function wise, but the clearances there are pretty tight, and I imagine it would take some R&D as the tubular piece would be thicker so wouldn't be able to use the shape of the stock piece. But it's not impossible to make. Maybe someone could talk to someone and work up some kinda deal, group buy it, etc. :naughty:

[QUOTE=eds13;419310]how the crap are you guys that low and it hits? i can barly move 15ft without scrapping my oil pan. wtf, i thought i was low...[/QUOTE]

I don't have a VH, my oil pan is above the cross member now ;) 

I have tons of under car clearance. It only hits under compression at very low heights.

[QUOTE=jzz30tt;419334]I don't have a VH, my oil pan is above the cross member now ;) 

I have tons of under car clearance. It only hits under compression at very low heights.[/QUOTE]

oh yeah, i forgot ;P

it's imoratant to realize that the op was concerned in referance to driving low with air (low effective spring rate). i don't think any coilover guys will have this issue.

[QUOTE=OG;419437]it's imoratant to realize that the op was concerned in referance to driving low with air (low effective spring rate). i don't think any coilover guys will have this issue.[/QUOTE]
 
i have the same issue and i want to go lower :slap:

what's you're ground clearance like? my old setup was relatively low spring rate with a couple (2) inches ground clearance and i never hit once. i would estimate with an aggressive spring rate you could get that down to 1" without issues. how low are you trying to go exactly?

[QUOTE=OG;419447]what's you're ground clearance like? my old setup was relatively low spring rate with a couple (2) inches ground clearance and i never hit once. i would estimate with an aggressive spring rate you could get that down to 1" without issues. how low are you trying to go exactly?[/QUOTE]
 
my lowest point is about 1.5" off the ground. but my third link hits the upper wheel well at every bump. And how low i want to go is as low as possible my undercarriage skid plate can take =)

Daym thats some gangster shit. Wants to go as low as the skidplate can take on a static setup. Maybe make a transmission skidplate too. Use the metal that makes sparks so when it does bottom out it looks all crazy and shoots sparks everywhere. Hahaha that would be the shit. What do those minitrucker guys use when they drag ass? Some kind of metal blocks.

Oh yeah, this thread is about the 3rd arm (doh). Looks like GarageFreedom just shortened theirs. I wonder if there is pics of the welding.

maybe i did hit and just don't remember then. i sure hope not cause i really don't want to cut mine.

[QUOTE=CrazyHawaiian;419471]Daym thats some gangster shit. Wants to go as low as the skidplate can take on a static setup. Maybe make a transmission skidplate too. Use the metal that makes sparks so when it does bottom out it looks all crazy and shoots sparks everywhere. Hahaha that would be the shit. What do those minitrucker guys use when they drag ass? Some kind of metal blocks.

Oh yeah, this thread is about the 3rd arm (doh). Looks like GarageFreedom just shortened theirs. I wonder if there is pics of the welding.[/QUOTE]



If you find a pic of the Garage Freedom arm in processing please post it!!! I have searched quite a bit w/ no luck. I found the pics of the car in different stages (i think mostly on their site), but like most jdm websites pics are super small.

[QUOTE=SIMPLE G50;419457]my lowest point is about 1.5" off the ground. but my third link hits the upper wheel well at every bump. And how low i want to go is as low as possible my undercarriage skid plate can take =)[/QUOTE]


um, my oil pan sits 3/4" off the ground. my skidplate sits 1/2" off the ground.... which is my lowest point.

i have sparks flyin down the road behind me :P

[QUOTE=jzz30tt;419500]If you find a pic of the Garage Freedom arm in processing please post it!!! I have searched quite a bit w/ no luck. I found the pics of the car in different stages (i think mostly on their site), but like most jdm websites pics are super small.[/QUOTE]

Roger that. Yup I wanted to find one too, was curious where they made the cut/weld. When I look at the picture again

[img]http://www.garage-freedom.com/img/gf_05_a4.jpg[/img]

The top part looks really clean so I'm thinking either amazing welding job up top, maybe it's been cut/weld somewhere in the middle or on the lower part. Wish we had a pic with the brake rotor removed. I also wanted to see if it was re-inforced from the back with maybe another plate welded on back there or something. I imagine strength might be a concern when doing something like this.

As far as how much to shorten it, man that's a tough one. Everything changes when the suspension is loaded (as you drive, when you hit the bump, etc), so it's hard to measure stuff and be accurate on jack stands or a lift. Plus too, I don't know enough about suspension geometry to know what effect a "too long" or "too short" arm would have. And I imagine it does matter. Wrong geometry can cause binding, abnormal stress on bushings/parts, and potential alignment issues.

If I were at this stage, and I had air, I would first find the lowest ride height you can get without the 3rd link bottoming out when you hit bumps. Pretty much as low as you go go where you can drive normal and it does not have contact. Then measure the chassis to ground clearance. Then drop it to the ride height you want, where the 3rd link does bottom out when you hit bumps, and does cause contact. Then measure the chassis to ground clearance at the same spot. Then subtract the second ground clearance measurement from the first, and that might be a good indication of how much you need to shorten it. But this is just in terms of the contact itself, and again does not take into account suspension geometry or any of the technical stuff. Might be worthwhile to research it. Don't want to end up with a car that rides weird or always needs parts replaced because of premature wear.

There is also the possibility of doing what some of the Lexus guys have done, and actually cut a hole into the strut towers to allow the arm to fully travel upwards. But I'm not too sure about that one, I'm sure it's a chassis by chassis basis, where some chassis might not have the room or strength in those specific areas to safely do it.

[QUOTE=eds13;419502]um, my oil pan sits 3/4" off the ground. my skidplate sits 1/2" off the ground.... which is my lowest point.

i have sparks flyin down the road behind me :P[/QUOTE]

I want videos!!! Thats awesome!!! hahahaha

ill see what i can do. lol

Is the G50 3rd arm cast or steel?

[QUOTE=99 GS3;419715]Is the G50 3rd arm cast or steel?[/QUOTE]

IIRC it's steel.. I'll check

[QUOTE=OG;390926]what do you hope to achieve by shortening the arm?
 
i've had my q pretty much on the ground and didn't have clearance issues like a lot of lexus. the other benefit would be geometry correction. cutting that link will not make the car any lower.[/QUOTE]

Yeah I didn't bother going through to read all the replies. But the front of my q was almost on the ground and I had no problems with the arm hitting the frame of the car. Although I was on 18k front springs, so that shit wasn't really going anywhere lol.

[QUOTE=urmyhero4now;419791]Yeah I didn't bother going through to read all the replies. But the front of my q was almost on the ground and I had no problems with the arm hitting the frame of the car. Although I was on 18k front springs, so that shit wasn't really going anywhere lol.[/QUOTE]

Off topic, but how was the ride with 18k up front? Also, how short was your spring?

Another possibility might be to raise the mounting point on the upper control arm on its wheel well bracket. That would open up the angle between the upper control arm and the upright(third member). Though, you would probably need to shorten the upper control arm to keep the camber deep enough in the negative range.

[QUOTE=CrazyHawaiian;419576]Roger that. Yup I wanted to find one too, was curious where they made the cut/weld. When I look at the picture again

[IMG]http://www.garage-freedom.com/img/gf_05_a4.jpg[/IMG]

There is also the possibility of doing what some of the Lexus guys have done, and actually cut a hole into the strut towers to allow the arm to fully travel upwards. But I'm not too sure about that one, I'm sure it's a chassis by chassis basis, where some chassis might not have the room or strength in those specific areas to safely do it.[/QUOTE]

I was actually looking at that edition of VIPCAR with this car and I noticed they have a picture of the engine bay and shock towers. The front and rear wheel wells are tubbed and strut towers are cut open. Which is pretty much in that picture.

[QUOTE=Jtmroczk;420012]Another possibility might be to raise the mounting point on the upper control arm on its wheel well bracket. That would open up the angle between the upper control arm and the upright(third member). Though, you would probably need to shorten the upper control arm to keep the camber deep enough in the negative range.[/QUOTE]

Actually that wouldnt work. If you raise the bracket mounting point and shorten the FUCA it will make it worse. After I installed my JIC Shorten FUCA is when the third link was hitting basically on every bump.

[QUOTE=SIMPLE G50;420266]I was actually looking at that edition of VIPCAR with this car and I noticed they have a picture of the engine bay and shock towers. The front and rear wheel wells are tubbed and strut towers are cut open. Which is pretty much in that picture.

.[/QUOTE]

Could you scan that pic? haha I'm interested to see the shock towers.

[QUOTE=jzz30tt;420320]Could you scan that pic? haha I'm interested to see the shock towers.[/QUOTE]

or you can just wait for my copy to come in the mail. then browse mine :D  cause i totally bought that copy on monday :D

[QUOTE=eds13;420595]or you can just wait for my copy to come in the mail. then browse mine :D  cause i totally bought that copy on monday :D[/QUOTE]

K that would be cool too.. I still need to mail you that filter and ur glasses :( 

Apexi ok?

I dont have a scanner lol. I'll try to see if I can take a phone pic and see how that comes out.

[QUOTE=SIMPLE G50;420266]Actually that wouldnt work. If you raise the  bracket mounting point and shorten the FUCA it will make it worse. After  I installed my JIC Shorten FUCA is when the third link was hitting  basically on every bump.[/QUOTE]

Yes you are correct, shortening the upper control arm [U]and doing nothing else[/U]  will make upper control arm to upright contact happen sooner in the  range of suspension travel, worsening the problem. However, your  experience does not apply to my suggestion as you did not alter the  upper control arm mounting location.

and in any case i can't imagine trying to raise the upper control arm bracket, that would be a shit ton of work. Now, raising the mounting location of the upper control arm on the mounting bracket would be pretty damn easy. Two flat brackets two holes, a few inches of welding and done. All work completed on a small easily exchangeable bolt-on piece of suspension.

i'm  having trouble visualizing how raising the inner mounting location would help. if anything wouldn't that put the uca more parallel; moving the upper pivot outward, and therefore, upward?

outward yes, but only because of the shape of the bracket(stepped design is working agains this idea) and the amount of angle because the car is already lowered so much. That's the reason for the need to shorten the arm as well. 

just think of it like a pair of scissors, one tip is mounted to wheel well, the joint is the a-arm/upright mount and the other tip is the top of the upright. lowering the car closes the scissors by moving the bottom half up to the top. so we're just moving the top up a little bit to open them back up a little

its a simplified idea, and will require some looking into as the amount the stepped shape of the bracket will force your new mounting location out over the top bolts of the bracket may require one to shorten the upper control arm to the point that the upper lower arm ration is too much and then camber gain is too fast. or one could end up with the upright impacting the upper wheel well before the upper control arm. The idea is not without its own possible problems, but it is a second option to look into that should be fairly easy to test.

Sorry OG, I just realized I didn't directly answer your question. No, it won't make the arms more parallel, the angle between them will increase.

instead of dealing with the 3rd arm would it be possible to just do an s13/14 suspension swap? i know the tension rods work. does anyone know if s14 lca's would fit the stock mounting point?

step backwards imo.

So I found this on YJP... I personally would be reinforcing them and not just butting them together, but an interesting find either way. 

Shortened about 20mm 

[img]http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img339.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/2/3/1/takayuki61216121-img600x449-1340801570rygdeh59514.jpg[/img]

[img]http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img339.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/2/3/1/takayuki61216121-img600x449-1340801570jspjmn59514.jpg[/img]

Nice find! I really need to this very soon but im in the middle of converting my lower ball joint into a heim joint and extending the FLCA 25mm.

[URL="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5276/7201274958_905066307a_b.jpg"][IMG]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5276/7201274958_905066307a_b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I feel like this should help the third link issue because extending the FLCA would change the geometry of the suspension dramatically. 

[QUOTE=jzz30tt;457730]So I found this on YJP... I personally would be reinforcing them and not just butting them together, but an interesting find either way. 

Shortened about 20mm 

[URL="http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img339.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/2/3/1/takayuki61216121-img600x449-1340801570rygdeh59514.jpg"][IMG]http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img339.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/2/3/1/takayuki61216121-img600x449-1340801570rygdeh59514.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL="http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img339.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/2/3/1/takayuki61216121-img600x449-1340801570jspjmn59514.jpg"][IMG]http://auctions.c.yimg.jp/img339.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/9/2/3/1/takayuki61216121-img600x449-1340801570jspjmn59514.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=SIMPLE G50;457833]Nice find! I really need to this very soon but im in the middle of converting my lower ball joint into a heim joint and extending the FLCA 25mm.

[URL="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5276/7201274958_905066307a_b.jpg"][IMG]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5276/7201274958_905066307a_b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

I feel like this should help the third link issue because extending the FLCA would change the geometry of the suspension dramatically.[/QUOTE]

Awesome! 

I assume you're doing this to gain MORE Camber!? Geez, and I thought I liked retarded amounts of camber.. haha 

What is your goal for the front now? I'm dropping off my Third Arms tomorrow at my welder to have them sectioned and shortened. I think I might do the FUCA's at the same time.. What kinda camber did just the JIC FUCAs gave you in the front and how much shorter are they than stock and lemme get them!?

[QUOTE=jzz30tt;457982]Awesome! 

I assume you're doing this to gain MORE Camber!? Geez, and I thought I liked retarded amounts of camber.. haha 

What is your goal for the front now? I'm dropping off my Third Arms tomorrow at my welder to have them sectioned and shortened. I think I might do the FUCA's at the same time.. What kinda camber did just the JIC FUCAs gave you in the front and how much shorter are they than stock and lemme get them!?[/QUOTE]

This is what im doing with the FLCA since my ball joints are shot. After I finish with the FLCA i'll be able to remove the JIC FUCA but still have the same amount if not a tad more of camber. The JIC FUCA is 25mm shorter which total to -8 of camber. If I would keep the JIC installed with the extended FLCA i could probably pull off anywhere from -12 to -15 camber. Im not ready for all that until i buy new wheels or rebuild my equips so i can be able to add more camber in the rears.

[URL="http://otto-fab.com/pics/07.05.2010_new_mono_stud.JPG"][IMG]http://otto-fab.com/pics/07.05.2010_new_mono_stud.JPG[/IMG][/URL]

can i get dibs on those jic fuca then?

[QUOTE=OG;458040]can i get dibs on those jic fuca then?[/QUOTE]

lol ill think about it.

[QUOTE=SIMPLE G50;458008]This is what im doing with the FLCA since my ball joints are shot. After I finish with the FLCA i'll be able to remove the JIC FUCA but still have the same amount if not a tad more of camber. The JIC FUCA is 25mm shorter which total to -8 of camber. If I would keep the JIC installed with the extended FLCA i could probably pull off anywhere from -12 to -15 camber. Im not ready for all that until i buy new wheels or rebuild my equips so i can be able to add more camber in the rears.

[URL="http://otto-fab.com/pics/07.05.2010_new_mono_stud.JPG"][IMG]http://otto-fab.com/pics/07.05.2010_new_mono_stud.JPG[/IMG][/URL][/QUOTE]


what ball joint is that?

[QUOTE=Kouki Monster;458075]what ball joint is that?[/QUOTE]


IIRC, I believe it's the same one Knoop used on his S14... a circle track universal joint. I'll have to look back at his build thread and find out exactly what it was. Either way, dope.

oh like those ones peak performance sells

it's just a weld in high misalignment housing. readily available. the biggest modification iirc is drilling out the taper on the knuckle for off the shelf studs. the longer studs also provide roll center adjustment. cool mod.

[QUOTE=jzz30tt;458076]IIRC, I believe it's the same one Knoop used on his S14... a circle track universal joint. I'll have to look back at his build thread and find out exactly what it was. Either way, dope.[/QUOTE]

Knoop was the inspiration behind the mod. After weeks of researching i came accross his build tread on zilvia and i pulled the trigger. Its was way better then having to pay $700 for oem G50 FLCA W/balljoint. 

Its basically a GM extended ball joint stud with sphearical bearing inside the welded housing.

[QUOTE=SIMPLE G50;458132]Knoop was the inspiration behind the mod. After weeks of researching i came accross his build tread on zilvia and i pulled the trigger. Its was way better then having to pay $700 for oem G50 FLCA W/balljoint. 

Its basically a GM extended ball joint stud with sphearical bearing inside the welded housing.[/QUOTE]

There ya go! I knew it was an inexpensive part (as things go). It's been awhile since I read through his build. Good stuff, glad you decided to do it. 

I like the G50 community on here.. haha

[QUOTE=SIMPLE G50;458132]Its was way better then having to pay $700 for oem G50 FLCA W/balljoint.[/QUOTE]

here's what i'm going to do (eventually):

[URL="https://www.moonface.co.jp/imgdb/item_data/64-1.jpg"][IMG]https://www.moonface.co.jp/imgdb/item_data/64-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

this is a complete unit but i am going to recreate it using interchangable parts. refinished oem arm with pillow ball and roll center adjuster (ball joint).

sexy

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Hate to grave dig this thread...

But has anyone gone any further with shortening one? None of the pictures load in here and I am at the point where I need to do something about the angle of the UCA. This is the only thread I can even find on google when searching.

I need to fix this lol.
[URL=http://s258.photobucket.com/user/IThaJokaI/media/20141120_225104_zpsrljvbk3u.jpg.html][IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/IThaJokaI/20141120_225104_zpsrljvbk3u.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

This suspension design does not lend itself to be setup for low.   Im currently in the middle of trying to figure out what the next step is as well. Either cut and shorten it, or do S chassis suspension swap. Nice thing is that it isnt a cast piece so cutting and rewelding it should be ok. You could always get out a saw and make room for the harm to travel. I made a bit of room under mine. 

If you are actually low, DO NOT WASTE your time on aftermarket upper arms for this car, it will only bind and break.

i have found a few pictures of modified ones after digging for hours on google translate haha..

I am going to attempt to build a set like these, they raised the king pin 50mm.

[URL=http://s258.photobucket.com/user/IThaJokaI/media/t02200165_0800060011221722883_zps3891a9da.jpg.html][IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/IThaJokaI/t02200165_0800060011221722883_zps3891a9da.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[QUOTE=IThaJokaI;514485]i have found a few pictures of modified ones after digging for hours on google translate haha..

I am going to attempt to build a set like these, they raised the king pin 50mm.

[URL=http://s258.photobucket.com/user/IThaJokaI/media/t02200165_0800060011221722883_zps3891a9da.jpg.html][IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh253/IThaJokaI/t02200165_0800060011221722883_zps3891a9da.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/QUOTE]

I ended up building a set of these for my G50, wasn't terribly difficult. Go for it!